Photo by Amy Buser / CC BY

The wrong stance. I see it every time at the range and a part of me aches. I want to say something or maybe offer a little advice, but you never know how people will react. And it’s not that they’re hurting anyone or bothering other shooters.

It’s just that they are not setting themselves up for success. Success in this case being survival of a defensive encounter where you must use your weapon. I’m talking about what I’ll call the “beginner stance”.

We’ve all seen it and may have started shooting using this stance. Feet parallel, back straight, arms nearly full extended and one eye close (with maybe a tongue sticking out in concentration). Is teaching someone to shoot with this stance a bad thing?

If you ask me, yes. It’s uncomfortable, can create bad habits, and makes recoil harder to deal with. There’s really no reason not to learn and start shooting from a combat/defensive stance.

We’ll start from the feet up on a proper stance to train with and build into muscle memory. There are concepts I’ve found in other activities, such as baseball and archery that transfer over and help you to keep things in mind.

The Feet and Legs

Standing up straight with your feet side by side shoulder length apart the first thing we’ll do is step back with our dominant side foot. That foot will also be more than likely naturally point out, which is good.

We start with the back because in a defensive situation you’ll more than likely be wanting to create distance and stepping back. So might as well make sure that triggers the rest of what’s to follow.

Now slightly bend both knees favoring your front one so your rear leg is slightly straighter. This will help control recoil.

Your front foot’s big toe should be pointed at your target. This is something I learned from baseball that I’ve found also helps in quickly getting on target. You want to learn to aim with your entire body and this will start with your front most big toe.

Hips and Torso

We want our hips to be squared with our target along with our torso and shoulders.

Squaring off might seem counterintuitive as you want to minimize the target that is you but there are two trains of thought here. The one I side with goes like this. Yes you can turn to lessen your exposure but if you get hit there you are now more likely to get hit in multiple vital organs from a single shot.

There are things we can do to minimize the exposure of our vitals that we’ll go over.

Shoulders should be forward and raised with a slight curve in your upper back causing you to lean forward slightly.

Arms and Hands

Your dominant hand, the one holding the gun, should be nearly straight with a slight bend at the elbow. The support arm will have a lot more noticeable bend.

Your dominant arm will be pushing, and your support hand will be pulling just enough to counter each other and helping minimize micro-movements in your arms.

Keep your arms up high so that when your head isn’t lowered your sights are near the center of your throat.

Tuck your elbows so they don’t go outside of your torso, but not so much it’s uncomfortable.

When gripping a firearm there are two big tips I would give.

The first is to make sure the palm of your supporting hand fills as much of the gap left by your dominant hand as possible. For me this means raising the thumb on my right (dominant) hand almost straight up to allow my left hand to fit neatly under. You may have to play your thumb placement to see what works best but the idea is to get as much of your hand’s surface on the pistol as possible.

The second is very much like the countering forces we did with our arms except now with our hands. We don’t just want to clasp or grip the gun, we want to create torque and lock in it. We do this by trying to turn our hands towards each other slightly. Pretty much the same motion as if our palms were facing each other but we turned them to face the floor.

The countering forces are going to help keep control of the weapon and get back on target faster.

Head

For the final piece we’ll lower our head and turn it just a little so the dominant eye is behind and we’re looking down the sights with both eyes.

Final Position

In the final position we should very closely resemble a boxer, except with a gun. This is a good way to remember the stance overall.

But to remember the finer points we’ll borrow a page out of the archery book. Is your chin touching your shoulder or bicep? Where are your thumbs overlapping?

By memorizing where certain parts of your body should be when you’re in the proper stance, you won’t have to think about adjusting. These are called anchor points and help keep your shooting extremely consistent.

Circling back to covering our vitals, your pistol should be in front of your face and your arms and elbows should be covering a majority of your upper torso. While your arms aren’t bulletproof, they may be able to stop or deflect a round that could potentially hit your heart or lungs.

And our legs, with the front bent more, are set up to absorb the recoil that is going to be pushing us back and trying to drive most of it down.

Final Thoughts

Like everything else it takes practice to get your stance and grip down. But the effect it can have on your shooting is phenomenal.

Practice these techniques while dry firing to try and get them ingrained somewhat before hitting the range. It’s also hard to remember every aspect when practicing with live ammo so pick one or two things to focus on at times and don’t beat yourself up.

Good luck!

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The trunk and truck gun—what is it? And what is the point? Simply put, a “trunk gun” is a firearm kept in your trunk.

The general idea is having something more capacity and/or firepower than a handgun should the need arise. Alternative reasons might be because it’s too difficult to legally conceal carry and easier to store a weapon in your trunk. Therefore, why settle for a handgun when you get a bit bigger.

Of course, some will argue that there’s no point in keeping a weapon in your trunk where it’s not immediately accessible. The point of a trunk or truck gun, though, is not to replace your concealed or everyday carry. It is to provide extra firepower in a crisis situation. This situation could be something large scale such as a natural disaster or terrorist attack.

Smaller more personal situations might involve your vehicle being immobilized and you pinned down by attackers. In this situation you may end up using your car as cover and having access to a rifle could mean the difference between life or death.

Or if you travel for long distances in your vehicle in remote areas that weapon could be a survival tool and not just a defensive one.

Rifle, Shotgun, or Pistol Caliber Carbine?

Deciding what to carry in your trunk will depend largely on what you want to prepare for.

An AR-15 is a great general purpose rifle. With proper optics it could be used just as easily to hunt as it could for defensive purposes. In the case of a large-scale scenario involving some level of social collapse, an AR in .223/5.56 would by far be the easiest weapon to find extra ammo and magazines for.

Depending on the terrain you frequent the most, a larger caliber rifle or even a shotgun might make more sense.

With the variety of ammo types a shotgun can satisfy many survival and defensive needs. From buckshot and slugs to the varying birdshot loads you can hunt and defend yourself from just about anything with a shotgun.

Scout rifles, a lightweight .308 bolt or semi-automatic with long eye relief and sling, are excellent choices for truck/trunk guns for a large array of terrains. Of course the .308 is just a suggestion.

If you’re worried about being stuck on foot around large predators such as bears then a larger cartridge, or an AR-10 might make more sense.

But if we’re talking about having to abandon the vehicle in any situation then AR-pistols or pistol caliber carbines have a big advantage.

AR pistols and carbines in pistol calibers (mainly 9mm) are lighter with ammo that weighs less as well. Should you be forced from your vehicle and on the run these options will be a lot easier to travel with. 9mm ammunition should be one of the easier rounds to find as well in a larger scale situation.

Safety and Security Aspects to Consider

If you’re going to store a weapon in your vehicle long term, you obviously want to do it right. Personally, this would be an instance where I wouldn’t keep a round in the chamber first off.

Regardless of whether people can see into the back of your vehicle or not, your gun should not be in plain view, even when your trunk is open. I don’t know if I’ve ever seen a vehicle that didn’t have a little storage spot for a spare tire or a jack and other extras. With a good case this is a great spot to keep your weapon stored.

In the event, this isn’t an option you may have to get creative.

While there are custom guitar cases made for holding rifle you could use a normal one to store a weapon in a soft case pretty easily and keep your weapon hidden in plain sight (for extra camouflage, be sure to throw some anti-gun stickers on there). There are also gun vaults/safes designed for trunk use depending on your budget.

It will all depend on the size of the weapon you’re trying to store. Either way it should be hidden, secure, protected from the elements, and not easily accessible.

Also take into account your local weather. If you live somewhere with high humidity, you’ll want to do whatever possible to keep the storage area moisture free. Whether you live somewhere humid or not, make sure to test and clean your weapon every few months. Time is not nice to anything, no matter the environment. Grease or lube that sits too long can gunk up and cause malfunctions, especially on rifles with more moving parts like AR’s.

There are those that feel a weapon should never be left unattended such as in the trunk of a vehicle. The reason for this is that cars can be broken into and/or stolen.

They make a very good point in my opinion. If your car is older or has poor anti-theft capabilities, you may want to hold off on a trunk gun. On the other hand, if your car is a target for car thieves despite having top of line security tech you have a similar problem.

Final Thoughts

To me, some situations justify the need to have extra firepower available.

If your reason is to be ready in case of another mad gunman. I would ask you to reconsider. Picking up a longarm (rifle/shotgun) and heading into a situation that will soon have police all over it is a bad idea. Not to mention the visual for anyone currently involved seeing another person, not in a police uniform, enter with a weapon.

If you find yourself in this situation or make the decision to enter one you don’t want a weapon in view until absolutely necessary. Moving with your hand on it at the ready until you know where your target is would be best.

Everyone has their own feelings on the idea but regardless it should be done safely. Always make sure you check your local laws and adhere to them so you won’t have any issues at random traffic stops (hopefully).

Good luck!

Photo by Ivan Radic / CC BY

Every so often I find myself doubting, comparing, and overall, just plain wondering. Is it big enough? I’m talking about gun barrels of course. When choosing a pistol for self-defense (or any other purpose) you want to make sure you’re choosing the best option for the designated task.

Of course, as with everything there are advantages and disadvantages to both short and longer barrels whether we’re talking about your CCW, a wood sidearm, or competition gun.

The Long and Short of It

The basic difference between a long and short barrel you’ll notice from ballistics charts is the change in velocity. The longer a barrel is, the faster it can push a projectile. This is because the propelling gasses have more time to push the bullet out. This increase in velocity equates to the projectile not only hitting harder but also dropping less over longer distances and getting to its target faster, increasing accuracy. This is why hunting/sniper rifles are usually 20 inches or more, their purpose is to push the projectile as far as possible. Whereas infantry rifles tend to be in the 14–16-inch range, still a strong effective range but easier to maneuver with.

With a longer barrel, you also get a longer recoil spring to better handle recoil and a longer sight radius. A sight radius is the distance between your rear and front sights and the farther this is the more accurate your shot placement will be.

Do Shorter Barrels Have Any Advantages?

It may seem like a longer barrel has all of the advantages, but it always depends on the situation.

Shorter barrels are going to be a lot easier to maneuver and conceal. Along with concealability and maneuverability you’re going to be a little bit faster as well. A 3-inch barrel is going to clear the holster faster than its 5-inch counterpart. Not only that but the slide of a shorter barreled weapon will cycle slightly faster as well. For example, the Seals who raided Bin Laden’s house were using 10-inch barrels on their AR-15’s.

Would we be able to notice the speed difference by watching or firing the two side by side? Probably not.

Personally, I feel the ability to get your weapon into action and the first shot off faster is the biggest advantage. The ability for a slightly faster follow up shot is nice but to really maximize on that you’d have to be able to have your second shot lined up and squeeze the trigger as soon as it reset.

Something else to consider is the overall length of your weapon if you plan on adding a threaded barrel and attachments. While again the longer barrel is going to perform better with a suppressor attached a shorter barrel (and short suppressor) will be a lot easier to handle and move with.

A Glock 26 and compensator will usually come out in length close to the 19 and work in holsters designed for the 19 more often than not. Now you essentially have a Glock 19 slide on the 26 frames without major modification.

So, What Do I Need?

The answer to this question can be a simple or complex one.

Keeping it simple. Shorter barreled, more compact guns are better for concealed carry. Longer barrel full-size pistols are going to be your best for everything else essentially.

But everyone is different. Not only in needs but preferences too.If your hands are on the bigger side a tiny pocket pistol could be uncomfortable to operate to the point of being useless.

When hiking or hunting you don’t necessarily need a full-size pistol to defend yourself. A compact or subcompact will travel a lot.

Hunting with a handgun is an entirely different story and you’ll certainly want the longer barrel for added range and velocity.

Best of Both Worlds?

Ultimately, it’s up to you to decide exactly what length barrel will suit your specific needs and environment.

Sometimes you don’t have to compromise too much though. Manufacturers and gunsmiths have noticed the demand for varying barrel and pistol sizes.

It’s possible to have a subcompact sized grip with a longer barrel via grip chop service or firearms similar to Springfield’s XD-S Mod. 2 with a 4-inch barrel.

Compact barrels with full-size grips are also possible for those who prefer a slightly shorter action with better control. The Glock 19X would fall into this category. The modularity of new designs, extended mags with added grip, and the armorers make it possible to create most combinations you can think of.

What it may come down to is how you prefer to carry and shoot. A larger grip handles better but is harder to conceal. A longer barrel will be more accurate but is more likely to increase your draw time and snag on your clothes.

Being limited in your ability to obtain multiple handguns for multiple purposes may also cause indecision.

When you can only pick one, compact pistols with barrels around the 4-inch range are a good compromise. They are still concealable enough for most and also comfortable enough to shoot at the range versus something much smaller. Glock 19’s work well.

Final Thoughts

If you’re new to firearms and trying to decide on what to get I wouldn’t recommend anything less than a compact pistol with a barrel in the area of 4 inches, give a take a third of an inch.

A small pocket .380 or 9mm is not fun to learn with. In all is likelihood you’re liable to create bad habits trying to compensate for the lack of grip, barrel and sight radius. Not to mention the higher recoil experienced when shooting from such a light handgun that lacks the mass to absorb any recoil.

A general rule of thumb is to get the longest barrel possible to suit your needs. The best way to think about this is to be very specific with your “need.” If you want a pocket pistol then the longest barrel you’d want would probably be no more than three inches.

Looking for a pistol to hunt with? Definitely the longer the better with the minimum being six inches. If you’re open carrying on the hip you’re not limited by the depth of your pocket, but you don’t want something and unruly. Four to five inches is probably the best range for open carrying, though we wouldn’t recommend open carry in a city (you’re likely to get bonked on the head and your gun taken away).

Photo by Doug / CC BY

Doing what now? The idea of carrying a gun with you at home might seem crazy to some. Your home is your castle and your safe space. It’s where you are in your comfort zone and not even thinking of anything bad happening. But

Now, you shouldn’t be paranoid, but you should be prepared. The number of threats out there and real-life examples of people being accosted at home going far beyond the scope of this article. I won’t quote any statistics or the chance of these things happening since that varies by area. Just keep in mind that these things do happen, and there is always a chance.

But we will go over several of the most common and best practices for carrying at home.

Home Invasions

Growing up, I didn’t live in the best neighborhood. In fact, it wasn’t uncommon for my family to watch TV on the floor whenever we heard gunshots. I remember vividly one of those nights when there was a SWAT raid right across the street.

I tell you that to tell you the next neighborhood we lived in seemed like a huge improvement. But still there were three home invasions in one year alone. Not a robbery or theft, an invasion of their home while they were watching TV on the couch with their family or eating dinner at the table! Luckily, they were only after material objects but it’s a scary thought.

Having your door kicked in and multiple masked men with weapons enter. If you’re not able to react immediately and with the appropriate force, then your only option is to comply. Which may or may not be your best choice depending on your attacker’s intentions.

There have also been instances where people returning home walk in on a robbery. In this case having a concealed weapon on your person is crucial. It’s critical not to get too comfortable even though you’ve pulled into the driveway. I know I’m guilty of putting my gun on the passenger seat on the drive home and forgetting it under my jacket.

Finally, if you’re a single woman living alone, the two things I highly recommend you get are a gun and dog. There’s an extreme sense of false security given by baseball bats and other means of self-defense to women if you ask me.

Animal Threats

Another threat not too often considered is the four-legged variety, especially in urban environments. Whether a rabid stray or someone’s attack dog that got out, canines are an excellent reason to be armed at nearly all times. And if you have small children who play outside and/or pets of your own, this goes double.

In more rural or remote areas, you may have to worry about opportunistic coyotes, mountain lions, or even bears which are all plenty good reasons to have something handy. Should an animal target you or a loved one your first move should be a warning shot at the ground in front of it.

Of course, if there’s no time for a warning shot make sure you know what’s behind your target before firing, especially if it’s tangled up with someone.

Stay Aware

The best thing you can do is to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings even when at home. This is getting easier with doorbell cameras and technology in general. I’m also a huge advocate of dogs and cats as they can serve as early warning systems, and large dogs are often security systems themselves.

Remember that someone with ill intentions won’t always kick the door in. Sometimes they knock politely with some ploy to get you to open the door. This could be that their car broke down nearby and their phone died or who knows what.

This doesn’t mean you can try to help should they be genuine. But doing things like offering to make the call for them can save your life. If they really need help, they’ll let you call someone for them. And always keep your doors locked if everyone is inside.

What to Carry

Do you need to have a rifle slung over your shoulder and be in full battle rattle 24/7? Of course not! For the majority of people in urban areas, a small handgun on your person is more than enough.

Personally I prefer something that can fit in my pocket. A subcompact 9mm, .380, or something similar is all you need. Something you can carry around just as easily in jeans or sweats. If it’s not comfortable to carry, you more than likely will end up not carrying it after all. Considering we are preparing for an up close and personal encounter caliber isn’t as much of an issue as comfort when carrying and operating.

Although honestly this can be a rare opportunity to tout around that Desert Eagle you’ve been keeping in the safe because it’s too big to conceal.

Final Thoughts

I’m not trying to make anyone paranoid or feel unsafe in their own home. If anything I’m hoping to alleviate anyone who might feel like they’re overreacting and make more people aware of possible threats. If your home is secure and then feel free to let your guard down a little and kick up your feet, it’s your right.

But there’s no reason not to have something available should something change suddenly. Take a good long look at where you live and decide for yourself what level of security you need to maintain.

Having lived in a variety of locations from big cities to rural area, I like to keep a weapon handy no matter what. It pays to remember that no matter how nice of a neighborhood you live in, you more than likely don’t live on an island all by yourself. Criminals have no problem traveling to their target.

Something you should also have on hand whenever dealing with firearms is a well-equipped first aid kit. One geared toward treating gunshot wounds and stopping bleeding. Compression bandages, tourniquets and hemostatic gauze (like QuikClot) are a must. As is proper education and practice on how to use them. Good luck!

Photo by Marines / CC BY

When you mention S#!t Hitting the Fan a few different scenarios might play out depending on who you are or the last movie you’ve seen. While there are a variety SHTF, apocalypse, EOTWAWKI scenarios, we’ll explore three scenarios and what I think could possibly be your best option for survival in them.

Scenario One: Shelter in Place

Maybe the world has been overrun by zombies or the next pandemic is wreaking havoc causing chaos. Either way you’ve decided the best option for now is to shelter in place. What do you choose as your primary (or possibly only) means of defense?

I’m sure the trusty 12 gauge or AR pops into mind for many people. And obviously these aren’t bad choices by any means, but there is another weapon that edges ahead in my opinion.

And it’s not a pistol!

But it’s close. A pistol caliber carbine would be one of my first choices if I wanted a weapon that could easily defend against threats that are inside or attempting to get inside.

Shotguns tend to be a go to for home-defense for a lot of people. When something goes bump in the night and waking you up, they are a great option in the right hands. Shotguns have limitations though. They aren’t the easiest to maneuver indoors and shorter barrels and stocks to compensate for this just decrease their effectiveness outdoors. When it comes to capacity the shotgun is outdone by a large majority of pistols.

The AR is a more than little better suited for defense in this type of situation than the shotgun. It has great range and handling for engaged threats advancing on your residence but not as agile once moving around inside.

Now a firearm around the size of a carbine in a pistol caliber (think AR-Pistols or the Ruger PCC) may not be the first one to pop in your head when thinking about a SHTF plan but hear me out.

A PCC uses a longer barrel making rounds like the 9mm a lot more effective and accurate at a distance. It may not bridge the gap between a .223 in an 18inch barrel but it increases your effective range to a more than reasonable distance.

Unless the area around you is completely flat and open for miles, you probably don’t need to be able to engage at more than a hundred yards.

Chances are you already own a pistol as well. AR pistols in pistol caliber and other PCC’s often accept pistol mags from major brands. A PCC that accepts 9mm Glock mags is a great companion to a 9mm Glock. Not only is it a reason to buy the 33 round mags but should one weapon fail or not be available all of your mags and ammo are still usable.

It should also be noted that mag compatibility between weapons should be considered when buying them for the express purpose of emergency situations with multiple people—in other words, buying models for you and your family that accept the same magazines to some extent.

Scenario Two: Evacuation

Depending on your area or the nature of the excrement colliding with the cooling unit, something may happen causing you to have to get up and go. If your instinct to immediately don full battle rattle then just take a breath and relax for a minute.

Our priority when on the move should be carrying only what we need. Even an extra pound will add up make a big difference mile after mile of traveling. If your plan is to drive out a car may not be useable at all even if it runs. Most cars require roads and I’m imagining a majority of main roads will be packed.

Here is where a pistol is going to reign supreme. Easy to conceal, good capacity and able to be suppressed. And we’re assuming of course we are evacuating to an area that is supposed to be safe from disaster. Here is where discretion is your best friend.

Carrying a rifle to a military checkpoint may not go over well and increases the chance a deadly misunderstanding between you and authorities. With a rifle over your shoulder, you’re going to be received by people a lot differently as well, which is all and good for the most part.

But for those with ill intent that won’t be swayed they will just change their strategy. Instead of intimidating you or other nonlethal means, they may just take you by surprise to avoid having to deal with your rifle. Carrying a rifle will essentially make you a hard target when being viewed as a soft-target could save your life. Both are still targets but are generally dealt with differently as threats.

But there is more than just one scenario that might require you to evacuate and there’s no guarantee that you’ll find safety. Should things go all “purge” and it’s everyone for themselves then a semi-automatic rifle or PCC are going to be your top choices. This is a scenario that resembles an active battlefield that most and should be treated as such. If you’re worried about a scenario like this, I hope you’re buying more than just guns and ammo. Items like body armor, suppressors, and NVG’s are worth far more than another gun.

Scenario Three: Survival

Something more probable to happen versus our other situations would be a wilderness survival scenario. Maybe you’ve escaped the next plague by running off into the wilderness or you’ve become stranded with your bare essentials from a plane/boat wreck.

Here our primary focus isn’t defense, while it’s still a focus, it’s more sustenance and rescue. We want a weapon that can defend us from the occasional threat but more importantly hunt and signal with.

My personal choice in this situation would more than likely be a bolt action rifle in .223 or similar caliber. I wouldn’t choose anything large than a .308 for the sake of weight and recoil. The rifle itself would in the bare minimum have iron sights and then maybe a scope. Back up iron sights are something to be considered when in unpredictable environments. Should my scope break I know I can still aim.

A super popular choice for “survival” guns in the .22lr. For good reason too. I can’t knock the .22 for its accuracy, portability, capacity, ammo weight, and small game capabilities.

Consider I can carry a handful of .22’s for every few .223, there better be some decent tradeoffs. And there is: with a .223, we get a weapon capable of taking down much larger game than rabbits and squirrels. Correct placement of a .223 round will easily take down any animal in North America. Again, shot placement is key.

Remember, we’re hunting for survival and not for sport so taking shots that you may not normally take will happen. If that means putting one in the back of a skull of a moose while you sit above in a tree then that’s what happens. The bolt-action rifles are also nice because there are fewer moving parts to worry about making it easier to maintain when you have little to nothing to maintain it with.

Final Thoughts

Your main priority should be to survive and that includes more than just firearms. If you can only get one then get the one that checks most of the boxes for your situation. And remember there’s a good chance you’ll be able to acquire more later on.

If you live out in the open country, a rifle may make more sense than a pistol. Urban environments and dense woods may not make a rifle the most viable option.

Also, if you’re in an apartment or even home in a town or city the chance of a fire starting and spreading to you is high in SHTF scenarios. You are more likely to have to leave regardless of how well prepared you are.

When all is said and done if I could only choose one weapon for any of the above scenarios it would be a pistol in 9mm. Easy to carry ammo, good capacity, easy to reload. You can also add a red dot, light/laser, and suppressor making it a very versatile weapon. Then of course there’s battlefield acquisitions which is exactly what it sounds like, to acquire something on the battlefield.

This, to me, makes caliber exchange kits and multiple caliber weapons sort of a moot point for most situations. If I find a weapon and ammo I’m not going to try and decide what is better and potentially leave one behind, I’m going to shove it in my belt next to my other gun and keep going. Good luck in the next apocalypse!

Photo by mr.smashy / CC BY

This won’t be a versus in the sense of which is better but more a comparison and look at some of the advantages and disadvantages of each firing system. I think the best way to handle this would be to compare how they might perform in different scenarios. And we’ll rate how each type of pistol performs as OK or great. Let’s go:

Striker-Fired

A striker-fired pistol is one that operates without a traditional hammer. After cocking the slide, the firing pin will be held back and a spring loaded ready to release on trigger pull and send the firing pin forward.

Scenario Uno: The Soft Strike

You load a magazine, rack the slide, aim, squeeze… and nothing. Maybe it’s the firing pin, maybe it’s the primer. Either way let’s hit it again.

On a striker-fired pistol you can reset the firing pin and trigger by pulling the slide back an inch or two. You should see your trigger reset and you’re ready to try again. Or, of course, rechambering another round altogether. Rating: OK

Scenario Two: The Winter Draw

You decide to go for a walk one winter night and dress appropriately. Part way along your stroll you’re surprised by what looks like a rabid dog. Time is of the essence; you pull up your coat and draw. Your pistol exits smoothly and you’re able to crack off a warning shot between you and the animal scaring it away. What else could have happened there? Rating: Great

Scenario Three: Dry Fire Training

Pretty straight forward! You want to practice via dry fire. What do we do? Rerack the slide either partially or fully every time to reset the trigger. Not entirely convenient but it works for practicing trigger control and grip. Rating: OK

Single Action Hammer Fired Pistols

Not to be confused with single action revolvers that only fire after the hammer is pulled. When pulling the slide back all the way and releasing it on a single action hammer pistol, the hammer will remain pulled back. One trigger pull it will release striking the firing pin.

Scenario One: The Soft Strike

Pulled the trigger and nothing happened. What do we do? Pull the hammer back and try again! Or rerack and chamber another round. With a single action pistol the trigger won’t operate unless the hammer is fully back. Be wary of “half-cocking” as well. Many pistols have three hammer positions, forward, half, and back. A half-cocked hammer won’t do anything; hence, the old expression! Rating: OK

Scenario Two: The Winter Draw

Here we are again face to face with a rabid dog. You reach for your trust 1911 and what happens?

Unfortunately, that old raggedy thermal you threw on snagged the hammer. You waste a couple precious seconds clearing your weapon before you’re able to react! Is this guaranteed to happen?

No. Especially if you’re aware of the possibility and take the proper precautions. Practice your draw in your winter clothing, your spring clothing, formal wear, you get the idea. Knowing how what you’re wearing impacts your ability to draw can save your life, and prevent you accidentally shooting yourself to boot. Rating: OK

Scenario Three: Dry Fire Training

Practice time. Pull the hammer back, squeeze trigger, rinse, and repeat. Not as bad as a striker-fired since all we have to do is pull the hammer back. Rating: OK

Double Action Hammer Fired

Not to be confused with double-action revolvers, but very similar in function. A double action pistol has a hammer. The trigger can be pulled whether the hammer is forward or back. If a round is in the chamber a double action pistol will fire even if it’s been de-cocked. When pulling the trigger with the hammer forward the weight will be heavier than if the hammer was cocked. You’ll see two trigger pull weights for double action pistols.

Double action pistols can also sometimes be confused with striker-fired ones if you’re not paying attention. Some double action pistols are “double action only” and have a hidden hammer. The rear of the slide is smooth much like a striker-fired pistol with only an outline of the “hammer”. These can’t be cocked into single action mode and only fire in double action.

Scenario One: The Soft Strike

Literally just pull the trigger again. It’s that easy!

Alternatively, you can pull the hammer back for a lighter trigger pull if you’re at the range. In a defensive scenario this can be incredibly advantageous. Of course, it may be better to just cycle the slide and get another round in. Rating: Great

Scenario Two: The Winter Draw

Here we have two different ways things can play out. Since we have double action pistols that are “hammerless,” fire double action only with no exposed hammer, there’s less chance of snagging.

With a tradition double action pistol with an exposed hammer, we have a higher chance of getting caught up. This can obviously be a big issue. To try and prevent this make sure to practice your draw in your winter gear. Most of us, including myself, are probably guilty of practicing our draw in minimal casual clothing since we’re at home. Rating: OK

Scenario Three: Dry Fire Training

Cock the hammer or don’t. Just squeeze the trigger for a double action pull weight for pull the hammer back for a single action pull weight if you have an exposed hammer.

For those laser systems that depend on the firing pin to register your shots the double-action has no competition. Sure, you’re more than likely not going to be firing in double action the whole time in the real world, but that tougher trigger pull is making your finger stronger. After a while of double action only pulls the weight of single action will feel a lot lighter. Rating: Great

Final thoughts

There are some obvious advantages and disadvantages to each system. While striker-fired also have lower bore axis heights, a whole other story, hammer fired pistols tend to be all metal and absorb recoil a little better. The point here isn’t really to try and sway you one way or another but to know how each may perform under certain circumstances. Just as always, be safe, and check your chambers. Good luck!

Photo by Mika Järvinen / CC BY

The venerable 1911 platform and its descendants are iconic and always a pleasure to see and shoot for most shooters. But or those who aren’t huge fans of the 1911 well … We forgive you (kind of).

When you truly love something, you acknowledge and accept it for its shortcomings. You must be willing to admit when it’s not the best choice for your task at hand. When the task is defending your or your loved one’s lives, is it up to it?

A Brief History

Although the 1911, designed by John Browning, had been created in the 1890’s, before its namesake year, it wasn’t until that year it was adopted by the Army. And it was kept all the way to 1985 was “replaced” by the 9mm Beretta M9.

Despite the official adoption of the M9, the 1911 still continued to serve in the hands of Special Forces and law enforcement agencies including SWAT teams and the FBI’s Hostage Rescue Team. Now Glocks and Sigs have been coming in as the new sidearms for the military.

Of course, the operative word there is “sidearm”. They are intended as back-up weapons for soldiers generally. A well-known wartime exception would be the tunnel rats of the Vietnam War. With nothing but a 1911 and a flashlight, they’d crawl through enemy tunnels.

When compared to a revolver the 1911, using magazines to reload much faster, was a no-brainer. But when going toe to toe with a modern striker-fired pistol or something toting double-stacked high-capacity magazines… Where does it stand?

As long as you’re looking at the 1911 platform as a whole and not just the original .45acp model then you’re in a good spot in my opinion.

Built for a Purpose

I often see it mentioned occasionally that even with the newest addition the military’s sidearm roster that there are SpecOps members who still carry 1911’s

I imagine these are fitted with threaded barrels and suppressor sights at minimum. Also, the slower .45acp tends to inherently be a good round when using a suppressor.

But why do some still opt for the 1911 when there are other options with the same general capabilities? And does that mean we should consider it for our personal purposes?

“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” – Someone smarter than me.

Even today the 1911 is still being emulated. Springfield Armory not only produces 1911’s but have infused features into their XD series of pistols, primarily the grip safety and frame ergonomics.

Although one could argue that the 1911’s superior ergonomics are due to the fact it uses a single stacked magazine. And that is sometimes considered a “con”.

When we’re comparing options for a battlefield sidearm where your primary is an automatic rifle with a 30-round capacity, then I probably would too. In that scenario when you’re more likely to participate in prolonged firefights capacity is king.

Self-defense is the topic on deck today though, and in the self-defense arena comfort rules.

Anyone who concealed carries (or even open carries) will more than likely tell you that the extra weight from an additional 8-10 rounds adds up over a day of carrying. Not to mention how many rounds is “enough” to defend yourself?

Realistically speaking, a minimum of about 15 rounds is what I would consider sufficient for 99% of self-defense scenarios. Keep in mind the likelihood of something happening in the first place too. My pocket 9mm holds 7 and I carry a 9-round extended magazine as an additional. When carrying larger pistols, I still carry a spare magazine, but the reason isn’t because I think I’ll need 30+ bullets. I carry the spare because if I have to clear a jam, I’m not putting the same magazine back in my gun, that’s literally the only reason.

A 9mm 1911 with a full-length grip will hold 8-9 rounds. With an extended magazine as a backup, you’re looking at 20+. This weapon will also sit on the hip a lot more comfortably through the day, especially in 4” barrel configurations like the Colt Commander.

But it’s not because it weighs less. A full metal 1911 with a loaded mag will weigh a handful of ounces more than a Glock 19!

So why would it carry better? Glocks and other high-capacity polymer framed pistols carry a majority of their weight in the grip. This causes the insufferable carry “flop” when carrying shorter barreled guns and most of the weight sits above the belt in the grip constantly wanting to flop out.

The balance offered by a 1911 doesn’t only affect how it shoots but also how it carries. Thin enough to conceal and with a balanced weight it’s more comfortable and predictable to conceal.

Reliability

A valid concern with any firearm is reliability, as it should be. You want to know that when you need it your defensive pistol is going to function. This is why you should never carry something you’ve never fired yourself. And like many other things there can be a “break-in” period for your pistol. I personally don’t like to have less than 500 rounds through a gun before I trust it, and even then, I carry a spare mag in case of jams.

Five hundred rounds may not always be feasible for some people but it’s important to try and at least a couple boxes of ammo and a mag of your defensive ammo of choice.

As a pro tip, lock the slide back overnight on a new gun before taking it out to help break in the recoil spring and greatly reduce the chance of a jam while breaking it in. The recoil spring being too stiff is going to be the most likely culprit in causing a jam in the first 100 rounds.

Considering I’ve seen even the venerable Glock jam when brand new out of the box, and never again after, this is the most important part of any defensive pistol purchase. If your gun functions fine during your first break-in shoot then you should be able to trust it.

Should You Switch to a 1911?

At the end of the day, if I’m going to recommend a gun to anyone for self-defense, I’m going to recommend what they shoot the best with.

If you’re here because you shoot a 1911 better than anything else and are wondering if you should carry it? Then the answer is yes as long as it’s a weapon you’ve had the ability to test thoroughly and have faith in.

If you’re considering switching to a 1911 from something like a Glock for some of the reasons here, I wouldn’t say don’t do it. I’d recommend exploring your options. The single stack magazine is making a comeback, as are magazines that blur the line between the two. A lot of manufacturers offer single stack options in hammer and striker fired options. If possible, rent what you’re considering to try it out, or at the very least find it at a gun store to see how it feels in the hand. Good luck!

Photo by Internet Archive Book Images / CC BY

If you’re not familiar with what a bore axis height is, you’re not alone. To put it simply, if you shine a laser down the center of your barrel that line would be the bore axis. Alternatively, imagine if your firing pin stretched straight out of your barrel.

How high the bore axis is would be its height. But why does it matter? Is higher better than lower? Or vice versa?

Some people agonize over finding a certain height while others never even consider it when choosing a handgun. How they handle differ and what makes them different can be the reason why someone does or doesn’t prefer one or the other.

High Bore Axis

Hammer-fired handguns have a higher bore axis than their striker counterparts. The firing pin needs to be higher so the hammer can striker it. A lower bore axis would only be possible with a shorter hammer, which might not be able to create enough force to activate the primer.

An AK-47 or Tommy Gun where the stock slopes down bringing the barrel and sights up higher are examples for longer guns.

Low Bore Axis

As mentioned previously, striker-fired pistol are lower. The striker firing system essentially uses a spring to activate the firing pin and can sit lower without a hammer. Glocks have some of the lowest bore axis heights when it comes to pistols. An AR-15 or M16 has lower axis heights than the AK and similar rifles.

What It All Means

The most noticeable difference between the two will be how recoil is handled. A lower axis height will send most of the recoil straight back with less barrel lift or flip overall. This is the biggest culprit when someone doesn’t like the recoil of a Glock or similar pistol. The recoil of lower axis bores tends to be “snappier”.

Higher heights still technically send the recoil back as gases propel the bullet forward but it happens and feels a little differently.

Since the bore axis is slightly higher, the recoil forces attempt to pass back over the hand as opposed to through it. This causes a lot more vertical movement also known as muzzle flip.

Before you run off thinking that what you want is minimal muzzle flip, just hang on a second. Now, yes it is true the less your barrel moves the faster your follow up shot could be. Could being the operative word.

It’s takes practice to fire any gun quickly AND accurately. So the fact that there’s an opportunity to get back on target quicker doesn’t mean you’ll be able to take advantage of it.

At the end of the day your first shot is the most important. If you miss your first shot the chance of missing your following shots goes up significantly.

You might be wondering why take bore axis height into consideration then?

Because the height of the bore axis can actually impact some pretty important aspects of being a proficient shooter. And a lot of those come down to preference! So what are these aspects that impact so heavily?

Comfort and confidence. Things not always considered. We’ll drool over technical specifications and features but at the end of the day if the gun is uncomfortable or you don’t feel confident using it, you probably won’t own it long.

Some prefer the snappier recoil over their barrel rocking back and forth. You get used to it and don’t even think about it unless you’re firing different firearms often.

The higher bore axis could easily be described as a smoother feeling recoil. I used to have the subcompact version of the HK P30. Even though the barrel was tiny, at just over 3 ¼ inches, recoil was a dream. I will say there was a noticeable difference in muzzle flip compared to my G26. The extra muzzle flip probably added time to my rapid fire but I didn’t lose any confidence. In my eyes, in a defensive situation either was a viable option I would trust my life on.

If you have issues with your joints or wrists that cause pain when shooting, this could help. A full-size size pistol with a higher bore axis might be more comfortable to shoot than any other handgun. Entirely metal frames, generally a feature exclusive to hammer fired pistols but not always, can also help absorb recoil.

Is One Better?

With how I’ve been talking about the higher bore axis you might think that’s the superior one in my opinion. Not entirely. The lower axis has its pros as well, some of which have already been mentioned.

The way recoil is handled is lower axis weapons is preferred by many. Manufacturers are also able to shorten the overall height of a weapon as well making something a little more compact.

Again it can all come down to personal preferences. The best part though is there is a wide array of options to try and see what works best for you.

Hammered fired HK’s, Sig’s and CZ’s are options with higher bores. Glocks are on the lower end of the spectrum. Coming in around the middle are models like the Sig P320. The info is usually readily available from either the maker or a third party.

Final Thoughts

I believe the first thing to take into consideration when choosing a weapon should be its purpose.

And with varying bore axis heights in service by military and law enforcement around the world it should be obvious that both are suited for defensive purposes, and any other purpose for that matter.

As long as it’s reliable and comfortable, the rest is inconsequential. If you’ve only ever fired a specific brand/model, it might be worth trying out something different. If you’re looking at the bore axis height to determine how accurate a gun is or how it recoils, be careful. Everything ultimately comes down to the shooter’s proficiency. Some people can shoot a snub nose more accurately than others with a full-size pistol and laser. The difference between the two will be their level of experience every time.

Photo by Chris Griffin / CC BY

Some days you just can’t make it to the range for a good old session with live ammunition. Maybe the weather is horrible or the scarcity of ammo has you wanting to hang on to what you have for the time being without having to break the bank to resupply.

Whatever the reason, it doesn’t mean you can’t practice anyway and continue mastering the mechanics and principles of basic marksmanship or even defensive tactics. Here is a rundown of a few different methods used by novices and professionals alike to help you on your quest to firearm supremacy.

Dry-fire

While pretty basic, dry-fire practice is essential to excellent marksmanship and handling. Before beginning I suggest investing in dummy rounds like “Snap Caps” designed to protect your firing pin during dry fire. Excessive dry firing without the firing pin actually hitting anything to absorb its energy can cause unnecessary stress to the pin and weaken it.

When practicing dry fire, there are a couple areas you’ll want to focus on including drawing the pistol itself. After the draw of course take a moment to make sure your grip is sufficient before moving on to the most important aspect and main reason for dry-fire practice.

Keep an eye on your sights and practice squeezing your trigger while achieving as little movement from the sights as possible. Don’t get discouraged if you see more than you’d like. The main point of this drill is to help you improve your grip.

If you have a revolver, simply pulling the trigger is enough. If your semi-auto is hammer-fired then simply pull the hammer back; everything is sufficient enough without having to rack the slack. If your semi auto is striker fired, you can pull the slide back halfway to reset the trigger. Using a target or an object to aim at will help have a point of reference to truly see how much your sights move.

Airsoft Guns

Now I know what you might be thinking: those things are toys! And you’re not entirely wrong. While I certainly wouldn’t put one in the hand of a small child without supervision, airsoft guns have come a long way and can provide experience you can’t get with actual firearms.

On the topics of kids and firearms, airsoft and bb guns are great ways to introduce young ones to the fundamentals of operating a firearm. From safe handling to aiming and all in the comfort of your own backyard. Unlike BB or pellet guns, airsoft guns can be used like paintball guns for matches or even training in house clearing and other scenarios.

Get a few friends to invest in airsoft versions of their carry arms, don some paintball masks, and find a spot to practice in and you’ll soon see how good your aim and draw are under pressure.
Running different drills like having someone charge you and see if you can draw and fire in time are great ways to improve your confidence and find what you need to improve one.

You can even go as far as airsoft proofing your own house every once in a while (blankets over TV’s, removing fragile items that might get damaged by the plastic pellets, etc) and running drills inside the place you’ll want it the most.

Airsoft guns, while not as accurate as actual firearms at distance, are still plenty accurate enough at closer ranges where you’ll most likely be engaging offenders.

For the most effective practice look into gas or electric airsoft replicas of your current carry or arm or something similar. You may not be able to find the subcompact version but as close as you can get will be sufficient. Many models also offer blowback features and operate just like the real deal would.

Lasers

Lasers excel as showing you how much your barrel moves while practicing your trigger pull and where you’re aiming at from the draw.

Activating your laser and practicing your draw will make sure your first shot goes where you need it to. Don’t just draw on a blank wall though. Hanging a target or picking an object as your target is where you’ll get the most benefit.

Arguably practicing your trigger squeeze and watching what happens to the laser will improve your accuracy and trigger control more than firing at a range. If you can squeeze the trigger with as little movement to the laser as possible you’ll be a crack shot on paper.

Laser Training Systems

On the subject of lasers there are a multitude of “dry-fire laser trainers” on the market currently. Some of these systems range in price from the cost of an actual laser for your firearm to much higher.

Many of these systems allow you to use them in conjunction with an app for your phone to track your performance as well as different modes of practice. There are even systems that offer feedback as to what might be causing your inaccuracy based on performance.

Laser training systems are an excellent investment for those who want to seriously improve their overall technique and trigger control from the comfort of their own home. They’ll allow you automatically track all of these aspects you would be trying to visually track with just a laser or dry fire practice alone.

Final Thoughts

Whichever method you choose to practice, you’re moving in the right direction. Simply having a firearm and qualifying once with it is not enough for a defensive situation. By choosing not to practice, you put yourself and others at risk.

When considering which method you’d like to start with ask yourself what you’re hoping to improve upon. If trigger control and accuracy are priorities at the moment, then a laser or laser system would be beneficial. If you’re looking to test yourself in realistic scenarios against others, then consider buying a few airsoft guns (and proper eye safety) to run more realistic scenarios and practice tactics.

Much like with anything in life, practice is essential for competency and to hone your reflexes. As always when handling any weapon, ensure it isn’t loaded and don’t have any loaded magazines nearby to prevent any accidents. Good luck!

Photo by
Wheeler Cowperthwaite / CC BY

It’s a hard truth to swallow that in a defensive situation the offender will have the element of surprise a majority of the time. In fact, the element of surprise is what criminals tend to rely on. There is a very high chance that you won’t know you’re on the defensive until your attacker has made their move.

With this in mind, you have to be prepared to make your move while possibly using one hand to keep an attacker at bay or even having been wounded and only being able to defend yourself with your remaining hand.

Whether wounded or defending yourself from blows you should be comfortable and confident in operating your firearm single handedly.

Single Hand Shooting

Depending on where you took your concealed carry class, you most likely had to shoot without a support hand. But a concealed carry class shouldn’t be the only time you practice shooting single handedly.

While shooting with one hand may not seem like a big deal, you’re now shooting without a support hand which affects your grip and ability to control recoil. Whenever you’re out at the range, make sure you’re practicing.

Support Hand Shooting

In a defensive situation, if your main hand is incapacitated, your only other option for defending yourself will be your offhand. For this reason, you’ll obviously want to make sure you’re proficient at shooting with your other hand.

While the same difficulties exist as shooting with only your main hand, they are now amplified. Off hands tend to be weaker and also experience more recoil. It’s akin to trying to operate the pedals of your manual car with the opposite feet. With your legs crossed aside, your feet have adjusted to how to press the pedals and your right foot on the clutch will certainly not be as gentle as your left has learned to be.

Your trigger control and grip on your off hand are possibly nonexistent. Beginning with dry-fire practice at home, train your offhand to be as proficient as possible. You may not reach the same level of comfort or proficiency with your offhand as your main hand, especially overnight, but you don’t have to be perfect.

If your pistol doesn’t have ambidextrous controls, you should also practice operating the magazine release and safety with your offhand. Sometimes this mean using your index finger instead of your thumb to press a magazine release or bringing your thumb over to disengage a safety.

Single Hand Reloads

Reloading under pressure can be difficult enough. Take away the use of one of your hands and it certainly gets more complicated.

If you’re using a pistol, the slide will lock back after the last round in your magazine has been fired. From here drop the mag. If your holster is readily available and maintains shape (made of kydex or a similar material) you can use it to hold the gun while you slam another magazine in. From here you can either use the slide release or your rear sight or RMR by catching it on a hard surface or your belt to push the slide back and release it that way.

Another method involved simply tucking your gun under the arm you’re not using (after dropping the magazine) and then using it to hold the firearm while loading in another magazine. You can also use your pants to hold the pistol as well.

With revolvers the process can literally be a bit more of a pain. While opening the cylinder using your thumb to disengage it and index finger to push the cylinder out, you’re left with two options to push the ejector rod and clear spent shells.

While it is possible to adjust your grip and use a finger to push down on the rod while simultaneously this fine motor function takes practice and has a higher chance of failing during a high stress scenario.

One other option is to use your chin to push down on the rod and clear the cylinder. Of course, this is assuming your off hand is completely useless. If not, you could use it or your forearm to press the rod.

After emptying the cylinder, tuck the revolver either under your arm or into your holster partially or your pants and reload the cylinder. Obviously having a speed loader for your revolver is extremely helpful here, although it’s not impossible to load the cylinder manually.

Once loaded press the cylinder closed using your body and you’re ready to go.

Handling Malfunctions With One Hand

Being able to clear a malfunction is another thing that can be extremely stressful under duress. Indeed, it might seem impossible to do with one hand. However, if you’ve gotten comfortable with reloading singlehandedly, this is something you’ll be prepared for.

The methods employed here are similar to reloading single handed except in a different order. After dropping the magazine you’ll have to rack the slide to clear the chamber. Again, utilizing your belt to catch your rear sight or RMR pull your slide all the way back. If possible, you’ll also want to lock the slide to make it easier to reload, although this can be harder without an ambidextrous slide stop when done with your off hand.

Off-hand Draw

When choosing how to carry your pistol always take into consideration you may have to draw with your non-dominant hand. For this reason, carrying at the 3 o’clock position, right side of the hip or in the pocket, is the least recommended. This position is the hardest to draw from for right-handed shooters with the opposite obviously being the most difficult for left handed individuals.

Carrying almost anywhere on the back or front makes it much easier to access your firearm with your non-dominant hand should your dominant hand be unable to.

Final Thoughts

Firearms require two hands to operate and maximum efficiency but that doesn’t mean just because you lose the use of a hand or arm that you’ll be completely defenseless. While practicing these techniques, it’s common to press your “incapacitated” arm tightly against your body since realistically it wouldn’t be use due to be damaged and by applying pressure with your body you can help slow bleeding of a possible wound.

Also, while practicing you may want to use an old belt or one you don’t care about as the sights can damage it. I’ve seen it recommended to use hard surfaces like countertops to catch your rear sight as well and while it doesn’t hurt to practice, keep in mind you may not always have the edge of a surface at your disposal, but your carry belt will be there. Good luck!

Photo by Reuben Yau / CC BY

While being a proficient marksman is vital to defending yourself, it’s certainly not the end all. Once you’re a competent and confident shooter, there are a few practices and tactics you want to start getting comfortable with to be able to make sure you’re as prepared as possible and able to give yourself the upper hand should the situation require it.

A Note on Aiming

Before we get started, this article is going to assume you are able to aim with both eyes open and shoot a decent grouping doing so at a distance at least ten yards. For right eye dominant shooting this means your head is slightly turned to the right as you look down the sights with both eyes. Left eye dominant is the reverse.

The distance is important since your effective distance can as much as halved when under duress so you’ll want to make sure you can effectively hit your target at the range at least ten yards since a majority of defensive encounters occur at less than three to five yards.

The “Three Point” Draw

One of the best draws for defensive situations has three stops (hence why I like to call it a three point draw) and has you aiming your handgun towards your target from right out of the holster. You’ve probably seen this done if you’ve ever seen a professionally trained gunfighter shooting and may not have even realized the significance of the movements.

The first “point” is akin to a quickdraw you might see from a western movie. From the draw as soon as your pistol clears the holster it should immediately be aiming forward.

It is extremely important to make sure your supporting hand never passes in front of the barrel. If you carry concealed under a shirt this is relatively easy to accomplish but should still be practiced extensively. To assist your support hand in staying clear, it’s best to practice running it across your body to where it needs to be to lift your shirt. You can either then bring your support hand under your gun or keep it across your midsection pressed against your body until your raise your weapon for the next phase of the draw.

For the next “point,” the pistol, while still aiming forward, is brought up to your midsection. The elbow of your main arm should be tucked, and our support hand should now be wrapping around as if you were normally holding your pistol. Your weapon should be somewhere between solar plexus and pec muscle height wise.

The final “point” is the extension of the arms into what should be your regular defensive shooting stance.

Now here comes the tricky part, putting it into practice.

With a target at close range, you’ll want to practice firing a single shot from the first two stops and two shots at the final stop of the draw.

The purpose of this draw and drilling it is because with defensive encounters happening at such a short distance you can’t wait until you’re in your traditional shooting stance you may use at the range. Plus if your attacker is close enough to lunge or even reach out and grab your weapon the last thing you want to do is make that easier for them to do.

Which brings us to our next “point”!

Backstepping

Now this may seem like a no-brainer but when the proverbial crap hits the fan it won’t be the first thing on your mind. So, it needs to be practiced and practiced until it becomes instinct, so you don’t have to think about it.

Also, it needs to be done right. With a majority of defensive encounters happening at such a close range and the average person able to cover that distance in the blink of an eye, the best thing you can do while drawing your weapon is give yourself more time. The best way to do this is by giving yourself more distance.

If you’re right-hand dominant, you should be shooting with your right foot back. While drawing, slide your left foot back to your right foot. Now slide your right foot back.

Simple right? Right! Don’t complicate the movement by crossing one foot over the other which will require turning your torso and also add the possibility of you tripping yourself.

Once you’re comfortable moving straight back, feel free to mix it up and move off to the side why moving back. Breaking the straight line of a charge can give you extra time and even trip up your attacker. Just make sure to follow the same principles as stepping back and don’t trip yourself up by trying to step over your feet.

Stiff Arming and Striking

In an in your face encounter simply stepping back will most likely not be enough.

As an extra measure to create distance and give yourself the chance to backstep you may need to throw a stiff arm or even strike an attacker.

Strikes recommended for this situation are ones that involve the heel of your palm. Either uppercutting the chin or aiming for the nose. When aiming a palm strike straight at the face for an extra measure form your hand into a “claw” by curling your fingers halfway. The benefit of this will be adding the potential for an eye gouge.

Also, for consideration is what’s become affectionately known as a “spartan kick” from the movie 300. One of these delivered to the bladder (just above the groin) will affect an attacker’s center of gravity severely and push them back if it doesn’t knock them down completely. Keep in mind that kicks should be fast and put you at risk of being taken off balance.

Whichever strike is required to assist in distancing yourself should be finished before you start to draw. Accidentally shooting yourself in the foot, hand or arm is obviously not ideal. Also remember you’re not limited to just these strikes. You can use your shoulder, elbow, etc, to create separation. Find a few strikes that work best for you and get comfortable with them.

Final Thoughts

These are basic techniques you should get comfortable with to improve your chances of surviving a situation where you’re forced to draw and use your weapon. If possible, I suggest investing in an airsoft gun and getting a friend to practice these with. Having someone run at you from ten or so feet away while you draw and move back will not only show you how fast things will happen but prepare you for operating under the pressure. (Do not, under any circumstances, use a real gun in this!) Good luck!

Photo by Juaberna /CC BY

Think back about the last time you saw a bank robbery in a movie. Who was the first target as soon as the robbers entered the bank and why? I’ll give you a moment to think about it. In the meantime we’ll have to answer two other questions for the purpose of this article.

Those questions are: What is a hard target? What is a soft target?

What Is a Hard Target?

A hard target doesn’t literally mean something that is hard like a castle. From a military viewpoint, a hard target is something or someone who is readily equipped and prepared to defend themselves. An enemy combatant in body armor with their rifle would be a hard target, as would be any sort of military installation with guards on watch and barbed wire fencing surrounding it.

What Is a Soft Target?

Obviously, a soft target is going to be the opposite of a hard target. Someone or something that is not readily equipped or prepared to defend themselves. Think schools, hospitals, and your average civilian.

The Bank Robbery Scenario

Now back to the bank robbery scenario. Who is the first target they go after? That’s right, the security guard. From a civilian standpoint , a security guard would be considered a “hard target.” He is armed and it is his job to prevent crime.

The lesson to learn here is that hard targets are normally the first ones to be targeted in situations like this, but not always.

Now the chances of you being involved in a bank robbery are pretty low. But this is just an example of when it’s a good thing to be a soft target. Were you the hard target, you would be the first one the criminals would pay attention to and would be rushed with very little chance to act, if any.

However there are times when being a soft target is obviously a bad thing.

Mean Streets

Whether you don’t live in the best area or just happen to be leaving an event and walking through such an area chances are there may be a criminal element lurking and watching.

Criminals and general up-to-no-gooders are always on the lookout for soft targets. In this context a soft target is someone who looks like they won’t put up a fight.

Walking with your head down and without the look of confidence will make you look like an easy “mark” (read: target). Simply being aware of your surroundings and carrying yourself with confidence will deter a majority of criminals. Don’t be afraid to make eye contact, don’t walk with your shoulders low and chest in. You don’t have to try to be intimidating, just being mindful and acknowledging your surroundings is enough. If you look like a victim, the criminals looking for an easy opportunity will take advantage of that.

Be Fluid

Let’s say you don’t appear to be an easy victim but still find yourself on the wrong end of a knife or gun? Should you still appear to be a hard target?

If you find yourself caught off-guard and in such a situation, there’s not much being a hard target will do for you except causing more problems. Feigning weakness can actually be your best tactical move.

When a knife or gun is flashed in your face, acting like you will do something will make your attacker more likely to attack you. Showing fear and willingness to submit on the other hand will make them more likely to lower their guard and give you the advantage you need in a life-threatening situation.

There have been situations where someone who was being mugged immediately submitted to the demands of their attacker and used the opportunity to their advantage.

I remember watching security camera footage of a man being mugged. The criminal in this case wanted their watch and wallet. The person complied with their demands but instead of handing over their items directly they acted scared and dropped them on the ground and stepped back.

As the mugger in this scenario bent down to pick up the watch and wallet his would-be victim was able to use the distraction to distance themselves and draw their pistol. Now with the mugger at gunpoint they were able to disarm and detain them.

Not every situation will play out like this and learning how to react and when to act are some of the most important aspects of self-defense you can learn.

Make Your Home a Hard Target

The one place that should always look like and be a hard target is your home. Having an apartment or house that looks like an easy target is just asking for trouble. Not only can your home be broken into when you’re not there, but you don’t want to wake up to something going bump in the night.

Making sure you have sturdy locks, an alarm system, lights on timers, and my personal favorite (if possible) getting a dog, will deter burglars from targeting your home. Also ensure you don’t leave items lying around outside that would make it easier for someone to break it. Things like tools, ladders, or loose bricks are creating opportunities for an opportunistic criminal.

Also remember locks are only useful when you use them. Even when home, make sure your doors are locked. Home invasions can happen at any time and more brazen criminals will walk in during broad daylight and hold you and your family hostage (it’s happened in neighborhoods I’ve grown up in). Simply locking your doors could save you from a nightmare.

Final Thoughts

When all is said and done what’s in your wallet isn’t worth risking your life for. Being a hard target will deter a majority of small-time criminals but sometimes it’s not enough and appearing weak and being submissive during a confrontation can give you the chance you need to get the upper hand. Sometimes being a hard target just means an attacker will come at you harder.

On the home front, take a walk around your residence and look for anything that could be used against you to break in, invest in an alarm (or in the very least a sign saying you have one), and always keep your doors locked even when home. Good luck!

Photo by AdolfGalland / CC BY

Just like a new car or motorcycle, the first thing you might feel inclined to do is trick out your carry pistol. However, before you add some mudflaps to your Glock or leather tassels to your Smith & Wesson, take a breath. There are some upgrades and accessories that are more beneficial than others (and some that shouldn’t be considered at all in my opinion).

Night Sights

One of the best upgrades you can make to a defensive pistol is installing a set of night sights. What are night sights? In a nutshell night sights are small lamps housing small amounts of radioactive material that glows in the dark.

Fiber-optic sights, a tube that catches light making it easier to aim, are often considered night sights as well but I don’t consider them true night sights. Since fiber-optics rely on a light source shining on them at the right angle to work they can’t be relied on in low light situations.

The benefit of having a sturdy set of night sights is obviously being able to properly see how your sights are oriented in any lighting situation. There are many variations of night sights available including 2 color sets, where the front sight is a different color, but another advantage is durability. Night sights are usually made of steel and much stronger than your standard plastic sights that many guns are manufactured with.

Weapon Lights and Lasers

What’s better than being able to see your sights at night? How about seeing your target in pitch black?

Thanks to advancements in batteries and bulbs, there are a variety of weapon lights available for pretty much any name brand firearm. A light on your pistol not only makes it easier to see what you’re aiming at, but it also has the secondary benefit of blinding your target.

I say secondary benefit because the primary is obviously being able to probably identify your target.

Lasers are also great for not only training purposes but also to ensure you’re on target even without having to use your sights. A laser on a snubnose revolver is a glorious combo of 19th-century technology (and reliability) with 21st century accuracy.

But remember: much like a weapon light, the biggest thing you’ll want to do is train. A laser may make it easier to aim but if you’re not able to activate it quickly under pressure it is essentially useless. Once activated though (and assuming it’s been sighted in properly), you’ll be able to fire accurately at close ranges from any position.

One drawback to using a laser is ambient brightness. While we assume most defensive situations will take place at night there is the chance you’ll need to use your weapon outside in broad daylight. If that’s the case you’ll find the laser, especially red ones, harder to see.

When considering a light or laser (or combo), also keep in mind there is a battery component involved and if you’re not replacing it every so often then the attachment may fail you.

Red Dots (RMR)

On the subject of lights and lasers, red dots RMR (ruggedized miniature reflex) sights aren’t far behind.

While they don’t have the exact same benefits as a laser, like firing from the hip with higher accuracy, they do make it extremely easier to put rounds on target accurately without having to line up sights, especially at longer ranges. Which can be troublesome for shooters with weaker vision.

As mentioned with lights and lasers, training and maintenance plays a big part in using these attachments effectively. From making sure they’re properly sights and activated, replace the battery every so often.

Grips and Stippling

Whether a sleeve or attached via adhesive grips come in a variety of types. If you constantly find yourself adjusting your grip after firing your pistol and have done everything you can to ensure your grip isn’t the issue, then you may want to try adding something to the grip to help it fit your hand and increase your ability to handle the pistol.

Downsides to adding something to your grip come into two forms. Rubber grips are more likely to catch your clothes and cause bunching of material making it more likely to accidentally reveal your firearm.

On the other hand, granulated or grip-tape type of grips have been known to be uncomfortable when rubbing up against your skin all day long.

One other option is “stippling” where portions of the grip area’s texture is changed, usually from a smooth texture to something more akin to studded, to increase grip. The only issue with this is it is a permanent thing. So if you don’t end up liking it you are SOL. If you’re considering having stippling done try and find someone else who already has it to make sure it’s something you won’t have a personal issue with.

Things Not to Do in My Opinion

Trigger jobs

I personally blame the obsession of people feeling they need a superlight trigger for their defense pistol on marketing/advertisements. The truth is you don’t need a hair trigger on your defense pistol. Hair triggers should be saved for competition guns and hunting rifles.

Also, I’ve never owned a pistol that the trigger hasn’t improved over time after proper break in. If you’ve fired a few hundred rounds, performed a thorough cleaning, and use a proper grip you should have zero issues with your trigger.

In a defensive situation with your heart thumping and adrenaline pumping that last thing you need is an accidental discharge due to a super light trigger.

If you think a non-stock trigger is going to improve your accuracy, I’m sorry to tell you it’s not. Train and practice are the two surefire ways to improve accuracy. A lighter trigger will only increase the chance of accidental discharges.

Graphics, Backplates, Cerakote, Etc.

Your defensive pistol is a tool and a weapon and not a fashion statement. The truth of the matter is in the unfortunate scenario you are forced to defend yourself and take the life of another individual your pistol will be used in a court as evidence.

If your pistol is presented and has a Punisher skull backplate and a Boondock Saints quote along the slide, how do you think this will make you appear?

The only superficial modifications I suggest are a cerakote finish in either the original finish or in the color of your skin tone. A skin tone colored pistol helps you keep your pistol concealed and less likely to be noticed should it ever accidentally be exposed. Never do anything to a pistol that you plan on carrying for defense that make look like someone who goes looking for trouble. Because, in this day and age, you might end up in prison—and that would definitely suck.

Final Thoughts

While it’s definitely tempting to “pimp” out your gun, don’t go overboard and certainly don’t put anything that would ultimately make the weapon less reliable.

At the end of the day your carry pistol should be looked at as a tool for defense and not a showpiece or fashion statement. Personally, I recommend staying away from any unnecessary internal upgrades and only recommend upgrades or modifications that will assist in you being able to defend yourself. What your gun looks like ultimately has no impact on its ability to stop an attacker. No one is going to see your graphics and immediately stop and say to themselves, “Oh man that guy is a badass, what am I thinking?” Good luck!

Photo by Adrian Clark / CC BY

So, as a skinny person reading this article, you’re either preparing to start carrying your gun concealed or you’re looking for other options to try out because you may not be happy with your current setup. Different body types present different challenges for concealing a weapon and doing so comfortably. Being on the thinner side, you have the disadvantage of having less mass to help conceal due to the lack of draping garments.

But that doesn’t limit your options for concealing. As long as your clothes aren’t snug or skintight, you’re able to do just about any position as anyone else. Even if you are printing ever so slightly, this isn’t an issue as something to keep in mind is that most people won’t even notice. If they do see any printing, they won’t realize what they saw printing against your shirt nine times out of ten.

Appendix Carry

Carrying in the front of your waist at the one o’clock position is called the appending carry. It offers a quick draw with the biggest downside being comfort when bending over or sitting down. But this position is easy to conceal as long as, once again, your shirt and/or pants aren’t too tight.

You can also move the holster to between the eleven and twelve o’clock position to give yourself a cross-draw that is accessible more easily with your offhand. Whenever carrying in the appendix position, I often like to have a mag carrier on the opposite side to help reduce printing and not give my pants any type of lopsided appearance.

The biggest complaint I have about this position is sometimes having the gun jab me in the stomach when sitting. For that reason if you find yourself sitting most of the day, this position may not be the best unless you move the weapon to the left as mentioned before.

Small of Back Carry

Carrying at the small of the back is one of the easiest positions to carry and conceal for a skinny person. Your clothes naturally drape over this area due to the upper back and it is a lot less likely to have any overt printing.

The small of the back is also beneficial due to the ease of access for both hands should you have to rely on an offhand draw. When carrying a little more heft, such as compact size or large with a double stack magazine, having the weight centered on your back tends to be more comfortable.

Shoulder Holster Carry

If you like the idea of not having to worry about accidentally revealing your firearm by an actions as simple as reaching up or bending over, you should definitely add a shoulder holster to your collection. Shoulder holsters are great for deep concealment since your arm guards the firearm, protecting it from printing excessively or garments snagging on it.

Shoulder holsters are a wonderful option if you spend a lot of time in very close proximity to others or are going to. Think crowded Las Vegas Strip, for example. If you’re worried about someone trying to snatch your gun off of you for whatever reason, this is one of the more secure ways to concealed carry your weapon.

However, if you have any issues with your back, this may not be the best option. Counterbalancing with magazines or investing in a shoulder holster that connects to the belt can help with these problems.

Belly Carry

In my opinion, a belly band should be in nearly everyone’s holster repertoire. Carrying around your midsection with a loose shirt gives you the benefits of a shoulder holster without a lot more flexibility. If you want to carry your firearm while out on a morning run in gym shorts or clothing that can’t support a firearm, you really don’t have many other options.

The belly holsters are extremely versatile for a skinny person. You can wrap it around your chest doubling as a shoulder holster or lower it to where you would normally wear an IWB holster.

Depending on your exact figure, though, these holsters may also not work for you. If your belly extends past your chest or your torso is relatively flat, you could have issues concealing a weapon no matter what clothes you try.

Luckily these holsters don’t need to be custom made and are usually returnable if they don’t work for you. Therefore, worst case scenario isn’t much harm in at least trying.

Ankle Carry

Ankle holsters are another great option for deep concealment with the obvious drawback and added draw time and a more unnatural movement required to draw your weapon.

But if you’re trying to keep your midsection clear of any weight or excess items there’s really nothing better. Obviously, if your firearm is too large, this isn’t an option.

If you’re going to carry on your ankle, you’ll want to make sure your pants are relatively loose at the bottom, no bell bottoms necessary though, and be hiked up to draw your weapon without snagging on it.

One of the best benefits of carrying on your ankle is this is someplace people really never look. Unless you wear flashy shoes there’s no reason for people to be looking down at your ankles.

Final Thoughts

There really is no one size fits all solution when it comes to the best carry position for any body type. Depending on your firearm, your body, and preferred clothing style you may have to try out different options. Regardless of what you end up with it’s always a good idea to have a few holsters on hand so you’re ready for any situation.

Also, the only way you’re going to know if a specific holster or position truly works for you is to try it. When shopping around, check the return policy of where you’re purchasing from. If a holster doesn’t work, return it and try something else. Don’t end up wasting your money and holsters that will just sit in your closet and never be used. Good luck!

Photo by Adrian Clark / CC BY

So, as a skinny person reading this article, you’re either preparing to start carrying your gun concealed or you’re looking for other options to try out because you may not be happy with your current setup. Different body types present different challenges for concealing a weapon and doing so comfortably. Being on the thinner side, you have the disadvantage of having less mass to help conceal due to the lack of draping garments.

But that doesn’t limit your options for concealing. As long as your clothes aren’t snug or skintight, you’re able to do just about any position as anyone else. Even if you are printing ever so slightly, this isn’t an issue as something to keep in mind is that most people won’t even notice. If they do see any printing, they won’t realize what they saw printing against your shirt nine times out of ten.

Appendix Carry

Carrying in the front of your waist at the one o’clock position is called the appending carry. It offers a quick draw with the biggest downside being comfort when bending over or sitting down. But this position is easy to conceal as long as, once again, your shirt and/or pants aren’t too tight.

You can also move the holster to between the eleven and twelve o’clock position to give yourself a cross-draw that is accessible more easily with your offhand. Whenever carrying in the appendix position, I often like to have a mag carrier on the opposite side to help reduce printing and not give my pants any type of lopsided appearance.

The biggest complaint I have about this position is sometimes having the gun jab me in the stomach when sitting. For that reason if you find yourself sitting most of the day, this position may not be the best unless you move the weapon to the left as mentioned before.

Small of Back Carry

Carrying at the small of the back is one of the easiest positions to carry and conceal for a skinny person. Your clothes naturally drape over this area due to the upper back and it is a lot less likely to have any overt printing.

The small of the back is also beneficial due to the ease of access for both hands should you have to rely on an offhand draw. When carrying a little more heft, such as compact size or large with a double stack magazine, having the weight centered on your back tends to be more comfortable.

Shoulder Holster Carry

If you like the idea of not having to worry about accidentally revealing your firearm by an actions as simple as reaching up or bending over, you should definitely add a shoulder holster to your collection. Shoulder holsters are great for deep concealment since your arm guards the firearm, protecting it from printing excessively or garments snagging on it.

Shoulder holsters are a wonderful option if you spend a lot of time in very close proximity to others or are going to. Think crowded Las Vegas Strip, for example. If you’re worried about someone trying to snatch your gun off of you for whatever reason, this is one of the more secure ways to concealed carry your weapon.

However, if you have any issues with your back, this may not be the best option. Counterbalancing with magazines or investing in a shoulder holster that connects to the belt can help with these problems.

Belly Carry

In my opinion, a belly band should be in nearly everyone’s holster repertoire. Carrying around your midsection with a loose shirt gives you the benefits of a shoulder holster without a lot more flexibility. If you want to carry your firearm while out on a morning run in gym shorts or clothing that can’t support a firearm, you really don’t have many other options.

The belly holsters are extremely versatile for a skinny person. You can wrap it around your chest doubling as a shoulder holster or lower it to where you would normally wear an IWB holster.

Depending on your exact figure, though, these holsters may also not work for you. If your belly extends past your chest or your torso is relatively flat, you could have issues concealing a weapon no matter what clothes you try.

Luckily these holsters don’t need to be custom made and are usually returnable if they don’t work for you. Therefore, worst case scenario isn’t much harm in at least trying.

Ankle Carry

Ankle holsters are another great option for deep concealment with the obvious drawback and added draw time and a more unnatural movement required to draw your weapon.

But if you’re trying to keep your midsection clear of any weight or excess items there’s really nothing better. Obviously, if your firearm is too large, this isn’t an option.

If you’re going to carry on your ankle, you’ll want to make sure your pants are relatively loose at the bottom, no bell bottoms necessary though, and be hiked up to draw your weapon without snagging on it.

One of the best benefits of carrying on your ankle is this is someplace people really never look. Unless you wear flashy shoes there’s no reason for people to be looking down at your ankles.

Final Thoughts

There really is no one size fits all solution when it comes to the best carry position for any body type. Depending on your firearm, your body, and preferred clothing style you may have to try out different options. Regardless of what you end up with it’s always a good idea to have a few holsters on hand so you’re ready for any situation.

Also, the only way you’re going to know if a specific holster or position truly works for you is to try it. When shopping around, check the return policy of where you’re purchasing from. If a holster doesn’t work, return it and try something else. Don’t end up wasting your money and holsters that will just sit in your closet and never be used. Good luck!

Photo by Ibro Palic / CC BY

Considering the plethora of concealed holsters available, deciding on just one or even the “best” can be a difficult decision. Adding to that, most holsters seem to be designed for a singular body type (not skinny) and things get even more tricky.

Without getting too brand specific, we’ll try to hash out what you should look for and what makes a holster the best for YOU (a skinny guy/gal).

High Ride Holsters

A high ride holster keeps your weapon higher than normal and a majority of it above your waistline. These holsters work best, much like most holsters, when worn in conjunction with a loose shirt.

The largest benefit of the high ride holster is there will be little to no firearm printing in your pants. Only a portion of the barrel will be between you and your pants, and you won’t be getting poked by a barrel nearly as much. Also, this can be a lot more comfortable in most positions if you find yourself sitting most of the day and won’t have to adjust for comfort as often as such.

The downside is if you’re packing a heavier gun or something with a double-stacked magazine, and therefore more weight in the handle, you run the risk of your weapon possibly flopping over if your belt isn’t tight enough.

With a high-quality high riding holster that keeps your weapon pressed against your body and a sturdy belt these can be successfully worn by a skinny guy or gal comfortably.

Belly Band Holsters

Bands that wrap around your midsection can be extremely versatile. If you’re planning on wearing something akin to gym shorts, there’s really no better option. These holsters can also be adjusted and worn either around your waist or up higher on the torso like your belly or even around the chest area serving as a shoulder type holster.

The biggest downside to these types of holsters is how warm they can sometimes become either from a lot of activity or in hotter weather. Belly holsters are usually constructed with neoprene and velcro closures that don’t offer much in the way of ventilation so you may notice a bit of extra perspiration. This increased warmth may be nice for colder climates and seasons, but as you can imagine, they aren’t ideal for warmer times. If you’re going to be inside with some nice air conditioning, this may not be an issue.

On the subject of comfort some people may not like the feeling of being hugged nonstop, but these are definitely an option you should have in your collection.

Shoulder Holsters

Shoulder holsters aren’t just for gritty old school detectives and the VICE squad and, of course, Dirty freaking Harry. They are an extremely viable option for concealing a weapon for people lacking the general mass to hide a handgun elsewhere on their person.

Shoulder holsters that store the gun vertically along your torso free you from having to worry about printing against your clothing. The weight of your weapon is also removed from your belt increasing your comfort level significantly. You also won’t have to worry about certain movements like bending over or reaching up, causing your clothes to reveal your weapon accidentally.

When deciding to carry your concealed carry firearm in a shoulder holster, watch out to make sure the height of your gun, from bottom on the mag to top of the rear sights, isn’t too tall. If your gun is taller than the width of your torso it will most definitely stick out and print.

Something else to keep in mind is the added draw time if you’ll be using a shoulder holster under your shirt.

Ankle Holsters

If the pants you’re wearing have some extra room around the ankle then an ankle holster will work wonders concealing your handgun for you. Of course, this is less feasible for larger firearms and should be reserved for subcompacts and smaller.

The advantages of an ankle holster are similar to that of a shoulder holster. You don’t have to worry so much about accidentally revealing your gun because your shirt hikes up exposing your midsection or you’re printing against your pants and the waist area.

As the advantages are similar, so are the disadvantages. Your draw time is increased as you’ll have to bend over to draw your weapon.

Pocket Holsters

There’s really not much to say about pocket holsters other than they are an extremely convenient holster solution if you’re using a “pocket” pistol. As long as your pants are not super tight and your gun is the right size, these holsters are not only convenient but also comfortable and quick on the draw with practice. You can, after all, always keep your hand on your gun as you navigate through potentially dangerous situations.

Final Thoughts

In my experience as a skinny guy myself, I’ve tried just about every type of holster trying to find what works best with my body type. The above options are what have worked best for me for various firearms.

My go-to for quick and no fuss is a high ride IWB. If I’m going for a run or just feel like wearing gym shorts that day, the belly band comes into play. For the pocket with a smaller gun—say, a .380 subcompact or a very lightweight snubnose revolver—obviously the pocket holster. Having multiple holsters at your disposal makes it easier to work around your plans and clothing. If you have to only choose one to start out with, I suggest starting with something that will work with the majority of your daily routine.

Holsters that I’ve had the most trouble with are ones that sit directly on the hip, whether they be OWB or IWB. Inside waistband holsters (that are not high-riding ones) push your pants out regardless of position and look unnatural while outside waistband holsters will get caught on your shirt and very noticeably print.

The most successful IWB holsters I’ve used other than the high riding ones have been ones that secure the entirety of the weapon below my belt but even then, they cause issues drawing and still tend to print pretty bad unless I’m wearing really baggy pants. So stick to the ones I recommend, especially if you’re on the skinny side: high ride IWB holsters, belly band holsters, and pocket holsters. Good luck!

Photo by Ibro Palic / CC BY

Put your hands up! Now bend over and touch your toes! No, I’m not trying to trick you into some yoga but if your shirt rose above your pants revealing any part of your midsection during that then your clothes are probably not the best fit for carrying concealed.

And if you happen to be on the thinner side of body types then you’re probably already aware of the struggles that come along with finding the right clothing to properly conceal a firearm. Something else to be aware of is excessing printing: seeing the outline of the firearm through the clothes. Clothing that is too tight will almost certainly print.

In this article, we’ll go over some do’s and don’t as well as provide tips when deciding on what to wear when it comes to carrying concealed and you’re equipped with a thinner frame.

The Challenge of Concealing When You’re Skinny

If you’re an ectomorph, someone with a thin and lanky build, you tend to lack the curves or extra mass that makes concealing a handgun easier. Chances are you don’t have much of a gut to create an overhang over your waist, or tree trunks for thighs making it harder to spot anything sticking out from your waistline.

In short, any weapon on your person might stick out like a sore thumb. But there are things you can do to make concealment much more comfortable and easier in general.

Shirts and Jackets

Avoiding anything too tight fitting or short should be your first step and something you’ve probably already realized. As mentioned in the beginning of the article, there is a simple and quick test to see if your shirt or jacket is too short for concealment. Performing this test with your weapon holstered (and while at home) also helps to see if your clothing might snag or bunch up on your gun.

When it comes to t-shirts, consider buying a size larger to create a loose fit reducing the chance of printing.

Tucked Shirts

If you’re someone who likes to tuck in their shirt and are using a holster that accommodates this, make sure your shirt has some extra length to it. Tucking your shirt and leaving a small “puff” area around your waistline allows you to create a more natural look when concealing that you don’t have to worry about printing.

Another tuck option available for the trendier crowd is the half tuck, tucking in half or less of your shirt. The great thing about this option is you can just tuck the area right around your handgun and leave the rest of your shirt untucked with the same benefits as full tuck but with added ventilation.

Just make sure when you’re tucking in your shirt you create a small puffed up area to help conceal your firearm and reduce printing.

Untucked Shirts

If your preference is an untucked shirt then you need to ensure your shirt is loose fitting, especially around the waist and long enough not to accidentally reveal your weapon. This may seem obvious, but it bears repeating and is extremely, extremely important.

As a fellow stick person, my preference lies with buttoned up collared shirts more commonly known as dress shirts. When untucked they fall far enough below the waist and with a properly worn holster have minimal printing. Choosing something other than a solid color design also helps to cover any possible printing that might happen.

Jackets and Hoodies

When weather permits, these are obviously your best options for helping conceal your carry weapon with minimal printing. Regardless whether you’re carrying in a shoulder holster or even outside the waistband, a jacket is going to help you conceal. The only downside is if you’re relying on a jacket for concealment and then move inside a building or someplace warmer, you could be stuck with your jacket on and this could in turn look suspicious or just plain weird.

However, it should be noted that even in warmer climates, you can wear lighter weight hoodies that are primarily used for sun protection to help concealed carry. These hoodies are generally about the same thickness as a t-shirt and made from similar material or even thinner materials. A quick Google search for “sun hoodies” will show you exactly what I’m talking about. Not only will they protect your skin from the sun but also make it a breeze to carry concealed.

Pants

Following the same rules as your shirt make sure your pants aren’t too tight or worn too low. A good belt is also essential. You’ll probably find that pants that fit perfectly before are now a bit constrictive when carrying concealed. Invest in pants at least an inch or two inches larger in the waist to comfortably accommodate your concealed carry weapon.

Pants that are too tight in thigh areas, aka skinny jeans, are obviously going to be a bad choice and print severely. Relaxed fit pants tend to work very well and leave minimal printing.

Always wear a belt when concealing as well. A belt will ensure your weapon is held against your body firmly and won’t flop around or move on you. Now you don’t have to run out and buy a specially designed gun belt to accomplish this but do make sure what you’re using is sturdy and thick enough to do what you need. Make sure your concealed weapon will always be held flat against your person and won’t tip over.

Preening

Preening in the context of concealed carry is the action of having to constantly fix your clothes to make sure your weapon is still concealed. Before going out into public with your choice of concealed carry garments, you need to perform movements to see who your clothes will react. This will not only show you any weak areas but also build confidence in the things that are working and ultimately reduce the urge to preen unnecessarily, which can be a tell you are carrying.

Walk around, crouch down, bend over, do whatever you see yourself doing and then some. But most of all make sure you are comfortable! Good luck!

Photo by Ibro Palic / CC BY

Put your hands up! Now bend over and touch your toes! No, I’m not trying to trick you into some yoga but if your shirt rose above your pants revealing any part of your midsection during that then your clothes are probably not the best fit for carrying concealed.

And if you happen to be on the thinner side of body types then you’re probably already aware of the struggles that come along with finding the right clothing to properly conceal a firearm. Something else to be aware of is excessing printing: seeing the outline of the firearm through the clothes. Clothing that is too tight will almost certainly print.

In this article, we’ll go over some do’s and don’t as well as provide tips when deciding on what to wear when it comes to carrying concealed and you’re equipped with a thinner frame.

The Challenge of Concealing When You’re Skinny

If you’re an ectomorph, someone with a thin and lanky build, you tend to lack the curves or extra mass that makes concealing a handgun easier. Chances are you don’t have much of a gut to create an overhang over your waist, or tree trunks for thighs making it harder to spot anything sticking out from your waistline.

In short, any weapon on your person might stick out like a sore thumb. But there are things you can do to make concealment much more comfortable and easier in general.

Shirts and Jackets

Avoiding anything too tight fitting or short should be your first step and something you’ve probably already realized. As mentioned in the beginning of the article, there is a simple and quick test to see if your shirt or jacket is too short for concealment. Performing this test with your weapon holstered (and while at home) also helps to see if your clothing might snag or bunch up on your gun.

When it comes to t-shirts, consider buying a size larger to create a loose fit reducing the chance of printing.

Tucked Shirts

If you’re someone who likes to tuck in their shirt and are using a holster that accommodates this, make sure your shirt has some extra length to it. Tucking your shirt and leaving a small “puff” area around your waistline allows you to create a more natural look when concealing that you don’t have to worry about printing.

Another tuck option available for the trendier crowd is the half tuck, tucking in half or less of your shirt. The great thing about this option is you can just tuck the area right around your handgun and leave the rest of your shirt untucked with the same benefits as full tuck but with added ventilation.

Just make sure when you’re tucking in your shirt you create a small puffed up area to help conceal your firearm and reduce printing.

Untucked Shirts

If your preference is an untucked shirt then you need to ensure your shirt is loose fitting, especially around the waist and long enough not to accidentally reveal your weapon. This may seem obvious, but it bears repeating and is extremely, extremely important.

As a fellow stick person, my preference lies with buttoned up collared shirts more commonly known as dress shirts. When untucked they fall far enough below the waist and with a properly worn holster have minimal printing. Choosing something other than a solid color design also helps to cover any possible printing that might happen.

Jackets and Hoodies

When weather permits, these are obviously your best options for helping conceal your carry weapon with minimal printing. Regardless whether you’re carrying in a shoulder holster or even outside the waistband, a jacket is going to help you conceal. The only downside is if you’re relying on a jacket for concealment and then move inside a building or someplace warmer, you could be stuck with your jacket on and this could in turn look suspicious or just plain weird.

However, it should be noted that even in warmer climates, you can wear lighter weight hoodies that are primarily used for sun protection to help concealed carry. These hoodies are generally about the same thickness as a t-shirt and made from similar material or even thinner materials. A quick Google search for “sun hoodies” will show you exactly what I’m talking about. Not only will they protect your skin from the sun but also make it a breeze to carry concealed.

Pants

Following the same rules as your shirt make sure your pants aren’t too tight or worn too low. A good belt is also essential. You’ll probably find that pants that fit perfectly before are now a bit constrictive when carrying concealed. Invest in pants at least an inch or two inches larger in the waist to comfortably accommodate your concealed carry weapon.

Pants that are too tight in thigh areas, aka skinny jeans, are obviously going to be a bad choice and print severely. Relaxed fit pants tend to work very well and leave minimal printing.

Always wear a belt when concealing as well. A belt will ensure your weapon is held against your body firmly and won’t flop around or move on you. Now you don’t have to run out and buy a specially designed gun belt to accomplish this but do make sure what you’re using is sturdy and thick enough to do what you need. Make sure your concealed weapon will always be held flat against your person and won’t tip over.

Preening

Preening in the context of concealed carry is the action of having to constantly fix your clothes to make sure your weapon is still concealed. Before going out into public with your choice of concealed carry garments, you need to perform movements to see who your clothes will react. This will not only show you any weak areas but also build confidence in the things that are working and ultimately reduce the urge to preen unnecessarily, which can be a tell you are carrying.

Walk around, crouch down, bend over, do whatever you see yourself doing and then some. But most of all make sure you are comfortable! Good luck!

Photo by WickedVT / CC BY

Choosing a gun is hard enough just for recreational use. When you’re preparing to purchase a new firearm, you probably feel like a kid in a high-caliber candy store. Even more daunting a task is trying to choose the perfect firearm that you will also be able to conceal comfortably when you possess a thinner body type. Without getting too hung up on brands or specific models, we’ll go over some of the better options that can be easier to conceal if you’re on the more ectomorphic side.

Compact 1911’s

This may come as a surprise to some but the 1911 is an excellent choice when it comes to a weapon for concealment. Even better still is the 1911 in compact form, a four inch barrel versus the standard five inches.

The 1911 has a slender profile as is and in the compact form still retains its great handling. Even better is nowadays there are plenty of 9mm options built on this platform. Its single-stack nature means you won’t be dealing with an extra thick handle making it harder to conceal. 1911’s are among the two best ergonomic handguns I’ve ever shot (the other are CZ-75’s).

However, there are some negatives to be said about the 1911 platform, some subjective, some not so much. A more subjective feature would be the thumb safety. In a defensive scenario where every move matters and time is of the essence, flicking the safety off, or forgetting to disengage it altogether, could cost you your life. So if this is your preference, training is even more important than usual to make disengaging the safety as natural as breathing.

Another issue some may have, is the fact that the 1911 platform is inherently a single action only gun. This means if the hammer isn’t fully cocked then your weapon won’t fire. Although a single action hammer fired pistol will have a lighter trigger than double action weapons, this is something you’ll want to try out by renting or borrowing one if possible.

Subcompact 9mm Pistols

Subcompact pistols are going to have a smaller overall size and be much easier to conceal than their larger counterparts.

When it comes to large capacity in a small package there’s not much better than a subcompact 9mm. All of the big brands have an offering in this platform so there’s no shortage of options. Normally subcompact 9mm pistols have a magazine capacity ten or more for double stacked magazines and at least seven plus for single stack (the Glock 43 and M&P Shields are popular models).

If you want something slim like a 1911 but smaller in stature with more features, then look for a single stack subcompact firearm. You might lose a round or two in capacity compared to a double stack, but chances are you’re planning on carrying a spare magazine that can make up for the loss and make a more comfortable carry in the long run.

On the other hand, some prefer the double stack for the simple fact they don’t want to worry about carrying a spare magazine. Either way you’ll be able to enjoy striker fired or double action models if you’re looking for something hammer fired with the ability to fire with the hammer forward.

While subcompacts are easier to conceal than compact or full-size, they have shorter grips and can be harder to control the recoil of. Decreased handling shouldn’t deter you from considering them, though, because with a little practice you’ll have no problem shooting them efficiently.

“Pocket” Pistols

Regardless of your size or body type, these are easiest pistols to conceal. After all, it’s what they are designed for! Smaller even than subcompacts you can hide these pistols just about anywhere whether it be in your waistband, on your ankle, or in your pocket.

As with subcompacts handling recoil becomes harder since you’re losing more mass to absorb said recoil and less surface area for you to grip for control. Pocket pistols are normally available in .380 auto or 9mm. Given their smaller size .380 is definitely the recommended caliber due to less recoil.

Lightweight Snubnose Revolvers

Yes, revolvers can be thicker than semi-autos due to the cylinder, but they’re among the lightest handguns you can buy. There are snubnose revolvers weighing in at just over 11 ounces, and if you buy a baggy enough pants, you can easily slip one into a pocket holster inside said pants.

Depending on the caliber, you can even have more rounds than a lot of other small semi-autos. Say, eight rounds of .22 Magnum. Or 6 rounds of .32 Long. And considering most self-defense shootings are resolved in under 3 fired rounds (most with zero rounds fired), even the standard 5-round capacity in .38 Special revolvers is plenty for the vast, vast majority of situations.

Yes, they might be harder to shoot than semi-autos, but revolvers also come with a plethora of advantages, not the least of which is extreme reliability. Watch any police-related Youtube channel, and you’ll see plenty of jams or even magazines falling out of service pistols in the middle of dangerous situations. You won’t have this problem with revolvers, and if you keep a snubnose in your pocket, you’re about as incognito as you can get.

Final Thoughts

When it comes down to it as long as you aren’t trying to conceal a Desert Eagle, you, as a skinny person, should be able to find a way to carry a gun. Of course, the smaller the weapon, the easier it’s going to be. Period, full stop. Every firearm has pros and cons to consider. Single stacks tend to be slightly thinner than their double stack brethren but at the cost of a few rounds. Subcompacts and pocket pistols are smaller but at the cost of mass and grip surface area costing you handling. Revolvers are bit chunkier and harder to aim well, but then they’re more reliable too.

If you’re looking for a recommendation with the best all-around capability and features, I would say something with a single stack magazine and in the compact or subcompact size.

If concealability is your primary concern, then a pocket pistol might be what you’re looking for. This includes pocket-sized snubnose revolvers.

No matter which way you go, proficiency is and will always be key. Practice and then practice some more. Regardless of your weapon of choice you’ll want to ensure you are accurate and efficient at handling any type of malfunction under pressure. No amount of aftermarket parts or a pricey red dot will substitute for old fashioned range time. If you think I’m wrong just look up Bob Munden or Jerry Miculek trick shooting. Do you need to be able to do what they do? No. But it should stand as proof enough that practice can make perfect, and no amount of equipment will change that. Good luck!

Photo by Gregory Skylar454 / CC BY

When looking at all the brands and all the models of firearms available, it can feel a bit daunting when trying to choose just one. First and foremost, you’ll want a weapon that is best suited for the task at hand. The task in question today? Self-defense.

Concealed vs. Open Carry

Before deciding on a handgun, you’ll want to decide how you’ll carry it. Concealed carry and open carry are pretty plain terms and exactly what they sound like. Concealed carry is when you conceal a firearm on your person and open carry is when it is in plain view and easily seen. Depending on your state’s laws you may need a permit for one or both styles. Both options have advantages and disadvantages.

While open carry takes away the need to worry so much about the size and hiding your handgun it does tend to draw attention. This at first may seem like a deterrent but in reality, all it’s telling your would-be attacker is that they’ll need to use the element of surprise and make sure they reach your weapon before you can or incapacitate you that much faster. If you often attend crowded events where personal space is non-existent then you should reconsider open carry.

Concealed carry on the other hand gives you the element of surprise and eliminates any unwanted attention, whether it be from the criminal element or otherwise. But it does place the burden on you to make sure you conceal your firearm in accordance with all local laws. You will also want to practice your draw as there will be a garment between you and your weapon adding a second or two to your overall reaction time.

Size and weight

The size and weight of a handgun may not seem like something you have to worry about but if your plan is to carry it all day every day and do it comfortably, it should be.

Not only can a heavy firearm cause hip or back issues when carried in certain positions for extended periods it can also become incredibly uncomfortable. If that becomes the case, you’re less likely to want to carry it ultimately defeating the purpose.

A gun with a slim profile and reduced weight is easier to carry and handle resulting in more comfort and ease of use. Handguns like the Ruger LCP are small but still manage to pack a punch and give you a lot of versatility when it comes to carrying. Something you’re able to throw in your pocket at moment’s notice (with a pocket holster) is a lot easier to conceal and carry in nearly any situation making you more likely to carry it and it won’t feel like a chore to do so.

Caliber

Try not to get too hung up on caliber, and remember, unlike in porn, bigger is not always better.

Larger caliber handguns like the .45 ACP, .40 S&W, .357 Mag, etc., all sound good in theory but the added recoil makes it harder for accurate follow up shots, especially in a stressful situation, and can limit your capacity. Not to mention they are harder to get accustomed to firing and make inexperienced shooters more likely to anticipate the recoil causing them to jerk as they squeeze the trigger and miss entirely.

The 9mm, .38 Special, and .380 ACP rounds have proven themselves more than effective when it comes to defensive situations. They are lighter, cheaper, have higher capacities and less recoil.

9mm handguns have also been the standard issue for the military and a majority of police departments throughout the country which should tell you all you need to know about the bullet’s capabilities.
If you’re in the market for a small revolver, the .38 will more than suffice. And if you don’t think it’s enough, tell that to Lee Harvey Oswald when you see him next.

Still, there are calibers to stay away from, like the .22 and .17. These are rimfire bullets vs centerfire which tend to be less reliable and in a defensive situation reliability should be your primary concern. (Rimfire just means the primer is on the edge of the bullet’s base whereas centerfire means it’s in the center.)

Capacity

Capacity is another area to not get too hung up on. Many handguns come with two magazines allowing you to carry a spare if you desire. A higher capacity is not always a good thing as it adds to the overall weight of the firearm.

Availability of ammo

Making sure you’re able to find ammunition is just as important to selecting a firearm. 9mm rounds tend to be more plentiful and easier to acquire given the current state of firearms and ammunition in the COVID era. A lot of ammunition manufacturers have focused their production efforts on 9mm due to the fact they are heavily used by law enforcement and military alike, also making them more appealing to you.

Before making a final decision on your firearm of choice ensure you’ll be able to get ammo for it or you’ll essentially be stuck with a weapon and no way to use it.

About availability, make sure you can acquire the proper defensive rounds for your handgun. JHP’s (jacketed hollow points) and HP’s (hollow points) rounds as good as long as you can control them. The humble wadcutter or even the lead roundnose .38 Specials aren’t too bad (again, read the autopsy reports of Lee Harvey Oswald, who was shot only once with a .38 roundnose; they ain’t pretty).

Accessories

Something you’ll want to research beforehand is the available accessories and aftermarket parts for the models you’re considering.

Unfortunately, not all guns were created equally when it comes to aftermarket accessories. When new accessories come into the market, they are almost always designed for Glock right off the bat. Reason being is that the Glock is one of the most used handguns currently. As standard issue for most police departments and even the Army it just makes sense that manufacturers would create items like night sights, magazines, grips, flared magwells, and pretty much everything else for the Glock platform before exploring other markets.

If you plan on adding a light, laser, or night sights make sure they’re available for the gun you’re considering.

Test firing

After deciding on the model(s) you’re interested in, check with your local firing ranges to see if they’re available to rent. By allowing yourself to test fire you’ll be able to truly see how the weapon feels in your hand and handles when firing.

Worst case, check with your local shops and see how the firearm feels in your hands before making a final decision. Ergonomics should be one of your top priorities. A handgun that is just plain uncomfortable when holding it is a poor choice.

After your purchase

Training

More important than the accessories, the caliber, the capacity and pretty much everything else you research beforehand is practice and training with your gun!

This is where availability of ammo comes back into play. You’ll want to make sure you’re able to get out to the range and get more than comfortable with your handgun. Once you’ve moved past basic marksmanship there are a litany of drills and exercises you can do including dry fire training.

Dry fire exercises

Dry firing is firing your weapon without a live round in the chamber. It is recommended to purchase dummy rounds designed for dry firing to help reduce wear and tear on your firearm, which is especially true if you ignored our advice and decided to get a .22lr revolver (the firing pin makes dents in your cylinder if you don’t have dummy rounds!).

These practice routines can include drawing the weapon and firing or simply practicing trigger control and clearing jams.

Classes & Competitions

Taking classes designed to improve your accuracy and handling capabilities are highly recommended. Instruction from experienced firearm instructors will help you with aspects that you may not be able to notice yourself need improvement.

A CCW class, while legally necessary for concealed carry, usually only includes learning about the legalities of carrying concealed and a marksmanship test. They are not designed to make you a more proficient shooter under stress.

Joining a shooting club or attending the occasional competitions are also excellent ways to enhance your ability to shoot accurately under stress. You don’t have to compete with the intention of being number one or going professional, just becoming better at getting on target quickly and accurately as well as clearing jams fast is worth competing at lower levels.