Snow has already fallen in the area, and the weather outside is frightfully freezing. The holiday season is in full swing, and there is no lack of merry entertainment at local wineries. I attended two festive tasting events this past weekend: one at Linden Vineyards, and the other at Glen Manor Vineyards. Both featured vertical tastings and helped to ring in the holiday spirit.

Linden’s holiday merriment on December 5-7 featured verticals of wines from previous vintages, featuring all three vineyard sites, including Hardscrabble, Avenius, and Boisseau. Spliced into the tasting were library wines from Christmases long ago. This same holiday treat will continue this upcoming weekend, December 12-14. Friends and I planned to attend the Friday, December 5, tasting, and the snowfall stopped just in time for us to drive out to the winery, albeit later in the day than originally planned. Our tasting began with a comparison of the 2019 and 2014 Boisseau Chardonnays. What a difference vintage makes, even at the same vineyard site. The 2019 revealed a leaner, more austere palate, while the 2014 presented a broader, more generous one. Lemon was the dominant fruit characteristic for both, but the 2014 recalled lemon custard. Our tasting associate pulled a 1997 Chardonnay from Santa’s library, and here we could witness the winemaker’s evolution in style. Who says white wines don’t age well? The Chardonnay’s golden hue decorated the wine glass, and ripe apple notes with baking spices flooded the senses. I detected a hint of almond on the finish. I suspected Jim Law was probably being more generous with time in oak barrels in the 1990s, perhaps new ones to boot. Jim confirmed this was indeed the case, and before he began vineyard designations for Linden’s white wines. His winemaking style now favors a more restrained approach toward oak, but the 1997 Chardonnay was truly stunning.

The 1997 Chardonnay was stunning. It predated Jim Law’s practice of providing vineyard designations for his white wines.

We then transitioned to red comparisons. Our first duo was the 2014 Petit Verdot and 2016 Petit Verdot. Fruit from all three vineyard sites comprises the Petit Verdot from both vintages. Both offered a whiff of violet, with the 2014 adding nuances of cedar. Elegant best describes the 2014 vintage, and it has always been a favorite of mine. I probably have a bottle or two on my wine rack. Complex layers of black seed berries then cherry finish with a pinch of spice. Sharper acidity, already a hallmark of this grape variety, is also a characteristic of the 2014 vintage, due to cooler nights during the growing season. It is the reason why fruit carries through the palate and lingers with this Petit Verdot. My compatriots favored the 2016 vintage, which featured tobacco notes and riper fruit flavors. I enjoyed this one too, but I will take the 2014 any time.

The final wine duo was the 2019 Avenius Red and the 2015 Avenius Red. These blends were dominated by Petit Verdot, and both produced dark cherry and blackberry characteristics. The 2019 maintained its acidity with spicy elements thrown into the mix, while the 2015 vintage made a juicier splash on the palate. I also noted a bit of dried herbs on the nose. Both were quite good, but I cast my vote for the 2019 vintage. Another visit from Christmas past, though, found its way into our glasses. The 2004 Avenius Red was another library pour we enjoyed as the last snowflake fell from the clouds. All savory notes here with enough acidity to carry through raisin-like fruit elements in the mouth. Yum.

The 2004 Avenius Red was a special holiday treat.

Our tasting of vintages past and present concluded, and we enjoyed a bottle of the 2016 Petit Verdot with a baguette and cheese. The snow landscape added the appropriate ambiance to a lovely, wintry afternoon.

The 2016 Petit Verdot paired well with a snowy landscape.

My holiday merriment continued on Sunday, December 7, at Glen Manor Vineyards. I was joined there by Kathy Lang Wiedemann (@fromthevines), her husband Rich, and Silvia and Bruce Miller, wine educators at Breaux Vineyards. The holiday treat here was a vertical tasting of Petit Verdot, and we were visited by three merry makers from the past: the 2009, 2012, and 2017 vintages. The 2023 vintage introduced us to the current Petit Verdot release. This vertical allowed tasters to sample vintages in two camps: classic and extraordinary. The 2009 and 2012 vintages were described as classic for Virginia, characterized by warm days, cool nights, and just enough rainfall. Vintages 2017 and 2023 were extraordinary due to warmer-than-usual days with low humidity, and the 2023 vintage was produced from a drought year. Winemaker Jeff White declared this one “for the ages.”

The vertical tasting of Petit Verdot included vintages considered classic and extraordinary.

The classic vintages both shared a floral nose, and the 2009 vintage presented a more savory profile with aromas of pencil shavings, sweet tobacco, and dried fruit. The 2012 vintage still maintained its dark fruit flavors and lingering finish, and a transition to dried fruit elements may be underway. The extraordinary team provided a contrast in growing seasons while maintaining the expected floral, dark fruit profile. The 2017 was surprising, still a bit tight with a quick swirl revealing dark plum, currants, and tobacco aromas. Juicy blackberries and currants made a delightful splash on the palate. Well-balanced and either ready to drink now or hold for later enjoyment. (I’m holding.) Jeff White de...

Virginia Wine Time

Message History

Add new keyword

Delivery option(s)