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My H Hotel El Nido review: a stylish, vegan-friendly hotel in the middle of town, with a fully plant-based breakfast, mountain-view rooms and one of the best rooftop bars in El Nido for sunset.

H Hotel El Nido is a boutique hotel on Real Street in the middle of El Nido town, a few steps from the main beach. It’s a vegan-friendly hotel, with a fully ...


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Warm afternoons, cool mornings and palace gardens on the turn: on paper, October is the month South Korea was made for. But how warm is it really, is the sea still swimmable, when do the leaves peak, and which festivals are worth building a trip around? Here’s what to expect, city by city, and how to plan for it.

My own fortnight in South Korea ran ...


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Pastel silk skirts swish past palace gates, and every few steps someone is posing for a photo in front of an old tiled roof. Renting a hanbok has become one of the most popular things a visitor to South Korea can do, and it comes with a perk that sounds too good to pass up. Before you book a slot, though, there are a few things worth weighing up.

I ...


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Half a century ago, a handful of Joseon-era houses near Andong were about to vanish beneath a new reservoir. Instead, they were taken down, moved and rebuilt, and today they stand together on a wooded hillside on the edge of the city, with heated floors, private bathrooms and a traditional Korean breakfast. Here’s what a stay at Tradition Resort Gurume is like, what i...


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Outside Korea, Korean food tends to mean barbecue, fried chicken and a jar of kimchi. In the country itself, almost every city has a dish it claims as its own, from braised chicken born in a market alley to cold noodles invented by wartime refugees, and some of the best meals are only a short train ride apart.

I ate my way across six cities in Octob...


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