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The first thing you notice at the Silvestri craters isn’t the view. It’s the ground. The black gravel underfoot is warm, and you realise the thing you’re standing on is alive. I’ve arrived in Catania four times now, and every time the first thing I look for is this outline — Etna sitting over the […]

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I used to think Milan was overpriced and overrated. Then I did this tour, and I realised I had been looking at the wrong Milan. Three hours, €45, a bike, and a local who knows which unmarked doors in the Oltrarno to stop at. The Navigli canal district. Built by Leonardo da Vinci (he worked […]

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Somewhere past Poschiavo, the train rounds a curve and the windows fill with glacier. You stop taking photos because no photograph will do what is happening in front of you. That’s the Bernina Express, and it’s the reason people book trains as tourism in the first place. The iconic shot. Red train, panoramic windows, Swiss […]

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You stand in a glass box above the stage. The ushers have let ten people in at once, and everyone is quiet because below you is the room where every Italian opera worth knowing was premiered. That’s the La Scala museum, €12. Most people bundle it into a half-day Milan tour with the Last Supper. […]

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The last time Vesuvius erupted was 1944. People’s grandparents are still around who remember it. That fact changes how you stand at the crater rim. You can book the trip up from €45. It’s a walk, not a climb — and it’s one of the best afternoons you can have in Naples. The crater rim […]

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