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Our brains are super interesting.
When surfers begin to lose a wave they’re paddling for, something automatic tends to happen.
And that something isn't good - in fact, it's terrible because it wastes energy, hurts the rotator cuffs, and draws the surfer farther up the wave face.
But rather than talk about what not to do, let’s talk about
The waves weren't good.
Not terrible in the sense that you couldn't surf them. Just… lackluster.
Small. Inconsistent. Nothing particularly exciting on the horizon.
The kind of conditions where you paddle out, catch a couple of waves, and start wondering if you should have just stayed home.
I've had plenty of those days.
Over the yea...