Put This On

EBay Roundup

Tue, 26 Jan 2021 17:22:31 GMT

Twice a week, we round up the best of menswear on eBay so our readers don’t have to. For an additional roundup, along with a list of each week’s best sales, subscribe to our Inside Track newsletter.

To find more menswear on eBay, try using our customized search links. We’ve made them so you can quickly home-in on quality suits, excellent dress shirts, fine footwear, good jeans, workwear, contemporary casualwear, nice ties, great bags, and well-made sweaters.

Suits, sport coats, and blazers

Outerwear

Sweaters and knits

Shirts and pants

Shoes

Misc.

If you want access to an extra roundup every week, exclusive to members, join Put This On’s Inside Track for just five bucks a month.

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A Bespoke Shirtmaker On How A Shirt Should Fit

Mon, 25 Jan 2021 21:37:27 GMT

In his book Nothing but the Best, initially published in 1959, Thomas Girtin describes the Golden Age of British craftsmanship. Between the descriptions of how various goods are made — suits, shoes, gloves, umbrellas, guns, and fishing rods among them — Girtin laces character sketches of the craftspeople and their eccentric patrons. The book tells the story of a very simple but noble craft. Many artisans entered their trade after dropping out of school and then climbed to the height of their profession by merely keeping to a high standard. Everything was cut and made from scratch, not even from block patterns, which are increasingly taking over the modern bespoke trade.

Tom Bradbury, the head shirt cutter at Dege & Skinner, is one of the last practitioners of that Old World craft. A hundred years ago, London was teeming with bespoke shirtmakers. Nowadays, there is only a handful, including Dege & Skinner on Savile Row. Bradbury learned his craft after having dropped out of college and then working at high street shops. Since Bradbury was interested in clothes, his uncle suggested that he pick up a trade on Savile Row. The next day, Bradbury put on a suit, walked into Dege & Skinner, and met the Managing Director, William Skinner himself. That was the start of his long career.

Bradbury makes shirts the old way: everything is cut by hand from scratch, including the collar, which is cut with a sharp knife for precision. He’s been at this trade for almost ten years now, having trained under the famous Robert Whittaker, the last head shirt cutter at Dege & Skinner before him. In normal times, Bradbury travels around the world to meet, measure, and fit clients for bespoke shirts, and then goes back to the company’s workshop on 10 Savile Row, where everything is made on-premise.

The thing about shirtmaking is that there’s no room for error. Shirt fabrics only weigh a few ounces per meter, unlike suit or sport coat materials, which typically come in at 14oz or more. With lighter weight materials, and without the structure that goes into a suit jacket or sport coat, any misalignment between the shirt and wearer will show up in the form of messy wrinkles. In bespoke tailoring, shirtmakers aim for perfection. So we asked one of the world’s best shirtmakers what he looks for when fitting a shirt, and how someone might aim for a better fit when buying ready-to-wear. Here’s what Bradbury had to say.

Collar

“When fitting a shirt, I always start at the top and work my way down. The collar is the first thing anyone notices on a shirt, so I pay attention to its shape, size, and depth. A collar should fit close to the neck, but not tight. Some of this will be about the wearer’s preferences, as different people like their collars to fit differently. What might be comfortably snug for one person can be considered too restrictive for another. One of the advantages of getting a custom-made shirt is that the collar will be cut just for you, according to your size and preferences.

When trying on a ready-made shirt, have a shop assistant measure your neck, then try a shirt in that size. If it already feels tight, you may want to size up, as most shirts are already cut with a ¼” shrinkage allowance. If you size up a quarter size, it should be fine. However, if you start sizing up too much, you can throw off the shirt’s proportions, as the size will be graded. As the collar expands, so will the sleeves, length, and body. If you have to size up too much on a shirt, that specific model or cut may not be right for you.”

Shoulder and Yoke

“The shirt’s yoke is more important than you think, as it connects all the other parts of the shirt. The yoke is that back part of the shirt that stretches across your shoulders. It has to sit at the right place, which means the shoulder seams also have to fit correctly. When cutting for a bespoke client, I regard the size of the person. I make a narrower yoke than seen on most ready-to-wear, so that it sits comfortably and gives you better ease of movement. Most people have asymmetrically sloped shoulders, such that one shoulder is dropped a little lower than another. When making a bespoke shirt, we can account for small things like this — the exact slope and pitch of a shoulder, so things fall cleanly.

When trying on a ready-made shirt, pay attention to whether the shoulders fit well. The seams should sit on top of your shoulder bone. Unfortunately, since it’s hard for a ready-to-wear manufacturer to make a garment that exactly matches any specific person’s posture or shoulder slope, sometimes you’ll see lines appear from your shoulder bone going down to your sternum. Granted, shirts are made from fabric, not sheet metal, so wrinkles will appear as you move around. But if you see lines appear when you’re standing still with your arms by your side, that may mean that the shirt’s shoulders don’t precisely match your natural shoulders.”

Chest

“This is again a balancing act, as people have different preferences for how they like their shirts to fit. Some people like a fuller cut; some like it slim. When cutting for a client, I try to get a sense of how they like their shirts to fit.

You don’t want a chest that’s so full that there’s excess material draping along the armhole. Simultaneously, the chest shouldn’t be so tight that you see the buttons starting to pull. A good way to check this is to move around a little. Sit down and see if the placket is starting to pull. Sometimes a slim shirt can look good when you’re standing at attention in front of the mirror, but then not feel comfortable when you move around or sit down. Check to make sure your shirt fits for daily life.”

Sleeve

“Sleeves can have a break just like trousers have a break. That means there’s a bit of excess material in length, so the fabric folds — or breaks — along the line. If your sleeves don’t have any extra fabric, then the cuff will ride up on your arm when you move around. At the same time, if you have too much material, it will look messy. You don’t want your sleeves to fall two or three inches down your arm when you unbutton your cuff. All that extra material is going to bunch up.

When trying on a shirt, try it with your suit jacket or sport coat. You want to show a bit of shirt cuff, generally somewhere between 1/4th to 3/8th of an inch, depending on your preferences. You can check this by standing still with your arms by your side. Now put your arms in front of you. Your shirt cuff should stay relatively stationary. If your cuff rides up your arm, your shirt sleeves are too short.

I also like to have people bend their hands back when they’re wearing their shirt and with the cuffs fastened. If the sleeves have been cut correctly, your cuff shouldn’t crease too much when you bend your hand backward.”

How to Stop Shirt from Untucking

“This is partly about the length and partly about the armhole. A high armhole will allow for better movement. You don’t want it too high, as then it will be uncomfortable. But if you have a low armhole, the shirt will become untucked as you lift your arms.

The other part is the length and gussets. Again, you don’t want a shirt to be too tight around the hips. But when you increase the length, especially from the bottom of the armhole to the bottom of the gusset, a shirt will stay tucked much better throughout the day.”

Getting a Collar to Stand Up Without a Tie

“A shirt collar is going to collapse to some degree if you’re not wearing a coat and tie, as gravity will play its part. This is why the button-down collar style is so popular for casual occasions. Even for business shirts, we’ve been making concealed button-down collars for customers who like to wear their collars open and without a tie. However, if you find that your collar is slipping down throughout the day, it may be because of a bad jacket. If your jacket’s collar isn’t hugging your neck, it will allow the shirt collar to slip down.

Otherwise, we have a term called “spring” in shirtmaking. If I’m cutting for a client who likes to wear a shirt without a tie, but doesn’t want a button-down collar style, I’ll put a bit more “spring” in the collar. This means increasing the curvature of the collar band at the front, where you would fasten it. When you increase the curve in this way, it does a better job of holding up the collar, as the collar is folded onto the collar band. Putting a placket on a shirt can also help the collar stand upright throughout the day, as then the front is less likely to collapse.”

Thanks to Tom for his time! Due to the pandemic, Dege & Skinner has put its international trunk shows on hold. In normal times, they travel to Switzerland, France, Japan, and the United States to meet and fit customers. Shirt prices start at about £295 (excluding VAT), depending on the fabric. Those interested can contact Dege & Skinner to be notified of their next trunk show. The company also has a range of ready-to-wear shirts on its website.

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Inside Track: January 24th – January 30th Edition

Sun, 24 Jan 2021 03:36:39 GMT

Here are our hand-selected favorites from eBay for this week, plus heads-up on recommended sales. If you’re a member of the Inside Track, log in with your CrateJoy username and password.

If you’re not a member, you can join now for just $5 a month. You’ll get access to one of these members-only lists every week, and your membership supports Put This On!

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EBay Roundup

Fri, 22 Jan 2021 19:59:36 GMT

There’s a lot of great menswear on eBay, but to find the good stuff, you have to search for hours. Which is why we do these roundups, so that our readers can find good deals easily and quickly. For those looking to get an extra round-up each week, subscribe to our Inside Track newsletter. We not only cover the best of eBay, we also list each week’s store sales.

Suits, sport coats, and blazers

Eidos glen plaid suit, 38

Outerwear

USN N4 deck jacket, 36
Schott motorcycle jacket, 38
Navy Eidos field jacket, 38
Tan Aero half-belt jacket, 38
Grey quilted Mackintosh coat, 38
Navy Mackintosh photographer jacket, 38
Vintage Banana Republic duck hunting vest, S
Vintage Chippewa work jacket, 40 (1, 2)
Private White VC x Permanent Style dispatch coat, L (pictured above)

Sweaters and knits

Shirts and pants

Shoes

Ties

Misc.

If you want access to an extra roundup every week, exclusive to members, join Put This On’s Inside Track for just five bucks a month.

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#PTOMan Highlights

Fri, 22 Jan 2021 19:59:21 GMT

Our Instagram followers are some stylish people, so once a week, we like to bring you some highlights from our feed. Mateusz braves the chill in a flannel jacket, Peter looks ready to fly in a shearling bomber, Simba layers in a leather jacket, and Gerry looks great in subdued colors.

If you want to be featured follow us on Instagram and tag your photos with #PTOMan. Bonus points for full-body shots as opposed to just shoes or collars.

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Real People: Keeping The Basics Interesting

Thu, 21 Jan 2021 19:28:14 GMT

Mitchell Moss in a sportcoat and flannel trousers from Natalino.

In a clip on her Netflix series “Pretend It’s a City,” writer (and proud Anderson and Sheppard customer) Fran Lebowitz is asked whether she attributes her sense of humor to nature or nurture. Fran replies, “There wasn’t much nurture of it, I assure you.” Lebowitz means she wasn’t encouraged to be funny; that growing up in the 1960s, being funny wasn’t a character trait society wanted in a woman. Of course, she built her career (and, eventually, paid for those A&S jackets) by being funny, acerbic, and amusingly cranky.

Some people may be born with a sense of style — for the rest of us, though, style can, in fact, be nurtured. Developing yours, and building a wardrobe, can be daunting, and even discouraging, especially when we first start out. First of all, most of us can’t go to Anderson and Sheppard and rely on their guidance (or ignore it, as Lebowitz has on occasion). We rely on guideposts of style we want to emulate: whether that’s parents, characters in literature or film, magazines, websites, Instagram.

Many resources (including this one) will advise you to focus on basics — navy jackets and suits, white or blue shirts, gray flannel or khaki cotton trousers, decent lace-up shoes, and versatile accessories. Even post-dress-codes, these items will serve you well in many situations, sort of like a decent sense of humor.

Mitchell Moss, an editor in the Nashville area, is an excellent style guidepost. He sets a really useful and accessible example of finding a lot of range in tailored clothing without going full Pitti Uomo (even though Mitchell has, in fact, been to Pitti Uomo). Mitchell has a tremendously consistent style, taking advantage of some core colors and silhouettes. Much of his wardrobe uses blues, grays, browns, and other neutrals, with shirts almost exclusively in the blue family. He also relies on makers that allow him to blend Italian and European influences (soft tailoring, print scarves, suede footwear) with American style (denim-adjacent shirts, five-pocket pants).

At first, that could sound limiting, but Mitchell’s combinations are interesting in part because he doesn’t necessarily make the easy choice for each piece. Rather than ten blue oxford OCBDs, he has a number of different stripes and denim/chambray, as well as a handful of collar styles, all of which are reasonably classic. He’s not a Batman’s-closet sort of dresser, with a rack of the same garments, but his tailored outfits are recognizably his.

As a dad of young kids, I can say the fact that Mitchell continues to build an interesting tailored wardrobe with a growing family at home (and during a pandemic) is even more impressive. His blog and Instagram are also great examples because photos are clear and well-lit, attributable to the photographer’s skills — Mitchell’s wife, Dana Moss.

Mitchell told me his approach to clothes is that they should make you look good, feel cool, and express your personality/personal style at some level. “Tailoring is great for #1 without a doubt; it can definitely do #2, but it’s not without its pitfalls there; and for #3, that’s up to you.”

His three key tips for guys starting out in tailoring:

Focus on finding a tailoring style that is flattering to your body type
Dress for yourself, but be honest about the circumstances you’re in
Don’t let the enthusiasts ruin your enthusiasm

According to Mitchell, “The rage is soft tailoring inspired by or made in Naples, but not every guy looks good in that. Be honest with what looks the best on you, even if what you want to wear isn’t it.” Mitchell suggests taking advantage of Instagram or menswear forums to get opinions on whether certain choices, “like jacket length, shoulder expression (soft? Spalla camicia? Roped? Padded? Extended? Narrow?), lapel width, gorge height, etc.” are good fits for your body.

Mitchell also recommends reading the style room, so to speak. “You know how every 4-6 years some fashion label decides to try and ‘bring camo back’? Well, guess what, I live in rural Middle Tennessee. If I wear camo, I’m just another “Person of Walmart.” On the other end of the spectrum, wearing a full-blown suit and tie might seem a little silly unless I’m on a date with my wife or going to church.”

“So for me dressing the way I want means soft tailored jackets paired with denim (often white or off-white), an open-collared shirt, and suede loafers or ankle boots. The tailored jacket is flattering, so I look good; I feel cool because I like how I look and get satisfaction out of the details of the jacket; and I’m expressing my personal style through my choices of fabrics, colors, aesthetic, silhouette, etc.”

While Mitchell acknowledges enthusiast forums are a useful resource, he’s wary of rules and tropes that become gospel by virtue of being repeated. “I’ve been getting a little bit more into wristwatches lately, [eds. note; unsurprisingly, Mitchell has great taste in watches — check out his Instagram] and seeing all the little bits of received wisdom/groupthink in the online watch world that have built up over the years has helped me gain perspective on the online men’s style community, which has its own share of received wisdom/groupthink.”

“There’s a lot to learn that will help you look better if you know it,” says Mitchell. “But there comes a moment after you’ve figured all that out when you realize that good taste evolves just as language does. That includes tailoring, and while there are many examples of people trying to do something clever and failing, that doesn’t mean you can’t remix things in your way and land on something unique that looks great, makes you feel cool, and expresses your personal style.”

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Style & Fashion Drawings: Adrian In Tokyo

Wed, 20 Jan 2021 19:25:25 GMT

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Sid Mashburn Perfected The Five-Pocket Pant

Tue, 19 Jan 2021 20:45:07 GMT

While in lockdown, I’ve been trying to wear something other than blue jeans and grey flannel trousers. Blue jeans get old after a while, and tailored trousers feel too precious for long afternoon naps on the couch. So I’ve been resorting to other things in my wardrobe: a pair of knitted “Agy” pants from Eidos, white double-knee painter pants, OG-107 fatigues, tan workwear chinos, and most of all, five-pocket pants in materials other than blue denim.

The term “five-pocket” refers to a pant silhouette modeled after traditional blue jeans (although the initial blue jean only had four pockets, as Levi’s produced theirs with just one back pocket until 1901). Since these pants are typically made from sturdy materials such as denim, cord, and moleskin, they feel tough enough for long days of doing nothing at home. They’re machine washable and don’t need to be pressed. They pair easily with oxford button-downs, Shetland sweaters, shawl collar cardigans, and tees. Most of all, for guys who enjoy wearing clothes, they give you something different to wear when your wardrobe has been mostly reduced to just simple tops and bottoms.

Sid Mashburn makes tremendously good five-pocket pants. The style is very much in the company’s wheelhouse: classic all-American clothing that feels like an updated version of prep. They’re like a boutique version of J. Crew, where company founder Sid got his start in the clothing trade back in 1985.

The cut on these pants is slim but not skinny, and they have a flattering waist size and rise for aging guys like me. In some of Sid Mashburn’s product photos, you may get the impression that these fit slimmer than they do. They are slim, but not nearly as unforgiving as five-pocket pants at hip high-street shops or Italian menswear stores. They’re not even as slim as what you’d find at Ralph Lauren or J. Crew. I think the cut and silhouette are better represented on Mitchell Moss of Menswear Musings, pictured above.

The company has them in what feels like every material and color in the world: denim, canvas, corduroy, and moleskin in yarn-dyed and garment-dyed varities. Like Mitchell, I like their natural colored denim the best. The color on their website looks brighter and whiter than in real life. In actuality, the jeans are closer to an ecru (Mitchell’s photos are a better representation). These are just about the easiest to wear white jeans on the market, as they’re not so bright as to be blinding, and not so tight as to be constricting. You can wear them with preppy staples such as OCBDs and Shetlands, with topcoats and a black knit as a baselayer, or with workwear items such as olive bomber jackets. For guys who like to wear denim with sport coats, white jeans are also a slightly dressier version of their blue counterparts, which helps bridge the divide between workwear and tailored clothing.

I also like Sid’s five-pocket cords. Dusty greys and charcoal work surprisingly well with workwear items such as Western denim shirts and Lee’s trucker jackets; tan is more versatile. Moss-colored canvas and moleskins can be worn like olive fatigues. I’ve been eyeing these chocolate brown cords in two shades. Both are on sale right now for just $75. The construction quality on all these is respectable — the seams are neatly finished, the pocket bags made from a charming oxford shirting (very on-brand), and they use very solid feeling hardware. If you’re a stickler for details, I suppose you can complain that the buttons aren’t backed with leather, as you might find on some pants (especially denim), and the brass washer rivets are unadorned (no stamped detailing). With some exceptions, Sid Mashburn also doesn’t use selvedge fabrics. But the fit and styling are on-point and the prices are reasonable.

There is a catch (there’s always a catch). Sid’s sizing can be a bit confusing, such that you have to size up. If you see five-pocket pants labeled as a 32, that often means that the actual waist measures 32″, not that it’s meant for someone with a size 32 waist. If you usually wear a size 32, take a size 34 in Sid Mashburn’s five-pocket pants. If you’re unsure, you can always call one of their stores and have a sales rep measure a pair of pants for you. Their customer service is excellent.

At the moment, there’s a small selection of styles on sale at 50% off. This is the company’s first round of price cuts, which means things are returnable if they don’t work out. If you use their self-return label, they will deduct $10 from your refund. Once things get down to 70% off or so, things are final sale.

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EBay Roundup

Tue, 19 Jan 2021 17:31:16 GMT

Suits, sport coats, and blazers

Outerwear

Sweaters and knits

Shirts and pants

Shoes

Ties

Misc.

If you want access to an extra roundup every week, exclusive to members, join Put This On’s Inside Track for just five bucks a month.

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Inside Track: January 17th – January 23rd Edition

Sun, 17 Jan 2021 07:52:18 GMT

Here are our hand-selected favorites from eBay for this week, plus heads-up on recommended sales. If you’re a member of the Inside Track, log in with your CrateJoy username and password.

If you’re not a member, you can join now for just $5 a month. You’ll get access to one of these members-only lists every week, and your membership supports Put This On!

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EBay Roundup

Sat, 16 Jan 2021 00:22:17 GMT

Suits, sport coats, and blazers

Outerwear

Sweaters and knits

Shirts and pants

Shoes

Ties

Black Anderson & Sheppard dotted knit tie

Misc.

If you want access to an extra roundup every week, exclusive to members, join Put This On’s Inside Track for just five bucks a month.

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#PTOMan Highlights

Sat, 16 Jan 2021 00:20:42 GMT

Our Instagram followers are some stylish people, so once a week, we like to bring you some highlights from our feed. Philip shows how to dress down a sport coat, John dreams of warmer days, Liam stays warm with a Gloverall, and Miyahara shows off a beautiful knit.

If you want to be featured follow us on Instagram and tag your photos with #PTOMan. Bonus points for full-body shots as opposed to just shoes or collars.

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Style & Fashion Drawings: Don’t Let The Mailman See Mee

Thu, 14 Jan 2021 21:18:20 GMT

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Our Beloved Sponsors

Wed, 13 Jan 2021 20:41:36 GMT

As an independent menswear site, we couldn’t be more grateful for having companies who support our work. So, twice a month, we like to give them a special shoutout. Doing so allows us to thank them for their support, as well as update our readers on our sponsors’ latest happenings.

Proper Cloth launched their new Japanese cotton t-shirts today. Made from a premium, Japanese, mid-weight jersey cotton with an extra-long staple length fiber, these come in five colors and range from XXS to 3XL sizing, including regular and tall lengths. You can wear one underneath a flannel shirt in the winter months for some lightweight at-home layering, or pair one with shorts once the weather gets warmer.

The company also just put up their latest winter style guide, showing how you can incorporate different levels of layering into your outfits, including lightweight overshirts for life at home, topcoats over knitwear when running quick errands, and using dark-colored oxfords to dress down tailoring.

Over the last thirty years, suspenders have gone much in the way of hats. Once common in men’s wardrobes, they’ve become something of a relic of the past. Part of that has to do with how trousers have become increasingly low rise, thanks to designers such as Hedi Slimane and Alexander McQueen. But as men are rediscovering the virtues of higher-rise pants — which elongate the leg-line — suspenders make sense again (as they only really work with such silhouettes).

Why wear suspenders? For one, they’re more comfortable than organ-squeezing tourniquets. Since your waist expands when you sit, and return to its smaller circumference when you stand, belts are only comfortable in one of these positions. Suspenders, on the other hand, allow you to have a little extra room at the waistband to accommodate for these changes. Plus, they’re better at holding up your pants. Belted trousers tend to slip down throughout the day, which requires you to adjust them continually. With suspenders, you can set the desired length, put them on, and never bother with them again.

Chipp Neckwear has the most affordable ones around, at least if you’re looking for something well-made and produced in the USA. The price is $45.50, which –- much like the price of their grenadine ties -– is lower than their competitors. They offer 20 solid colors and three stripes, the choice of black or brown leather kips, as well as gold or silver-colored adjusters.

Dapper Classics is holding a 35% off sale on their trousers today, putting them as low as $95 for cotton and $127 for wool. Made at the renowned Hertling trouser factory in Red Hook, Brooklyn, these are cut and sewn from many of the same fabrics used by bespoke tailors. They have a mid-rise, trim fit, and all the details you’d want in a pair of well-made pants, such as a fully curtained construction, rear-split waistband, and unfinished hem, so you can get these hemmed however you need. Get grey in various shades and materials if you’re looking for versatility, then tan or brown if you want to add some diversity to your wardrobe. Navy trousers are nice with lighter colored sport coats. Note that the sale ends today, and the discount is applied at checkout.

There are just a few more days left in Rowing Blazers’ Boxing Day sale, where you can find select items discounted by as much as 40% off. Included are the company’s famous rugby shirts and dad caps, their new collaboration with Fila and Sperry, and the Babar rugby you see above. Made in Europe from a super heavyweight jersey, this has an embroidered Babar sportscar illustration that’s sure to make kids around you smile. Rowing Blazers also has totes, critter pants, pins, coach jackets, oxford shirts, and sweatshirts in their Babar collection.

Once a season, LuxeSwap holds a trunk show at No Man Walks Alone’s showroom in New York City. The two companies have a “trade up” program, which allows you to sell your old clothes through LuxeSwap’s consignment service and turn those profits into No Man Walks Alone store credit. At the trunk show, LuxeSwap takes people’s clothes in New York City, which saves people the time, effort, and cost of shipping clothes to LuxeSwap’s Oyster Bay headquarters.

Since LuxeSwap can’t have an in-person trunk show this season, they’re opening up the experience online. At the moment, they’ll cover all in-bound shipping from consignors. To get your shipping costs reimbursed, send them an email after you’ve shipped your boxes and include your full name and the amount you paid. They will then apply that amount to your proceeds.

The “trade-up” program is pretty straightforward. If you send your clothes to LuxeSwap, they’ll do all the hard work of selling them for you through their eBay webshop. And if you’re willing to take your profits in the form of store credit at NMWA, they’ll reduce their commission from 40% to 30% — and NMWA will top off your profits with an additional 10%. Effectively, that means 30% more value than you’d get otherwise. Credit gets posted in about three to four weeks after the auction closes, and the store credit never expires. The best part? Since this season’s “online trunk show” is being held early, your credits will appear just in time for some of NMWA’s first spring drops.

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EBay Roundup

Tue, 12 Jan 2021 18:09:28 GMT

Suits, sport coats, and blazers

Outerwear

Sweaters and knits

Shirts and pants

Shoes

Bunch of Yuketen boots, various sizes (note these run a half size large, so a 9D would wear an 8.5 in Yuketen)
Brown Belgian loafers, 8.5
Visvim Mesa Moc chukkas, 9.5
Grained Alden boots, 10.5
Suede Alden boots, 10
Black Vass derbies, 10
Tan suede Alden unlined derbies, 11

Ties

Bags, briefcases, and wallets

Misc.

If you want access to an extra roundup every week, exclusive to members, join Put This On’s Inside Track for just five bucks a month.

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Better With Age: 10 Things Better Bought Used

Tue, 12 Jan 2021 00:18:10 GMT

There’s a story about how Miuccia Prada, head designer of Prada and founder of its subsidiary Miu Miu, once found a stunningly beautiful, silk faille Balenciaga coat with a rosebud print inside a Parisian vintage shop. Engrossed by the construction, she turned the seams inside-out and admired the detailing. When her friend suggested she should get it, Prada replied: “Oh, I’m not just going to get it. I’m going to copy it.” This is Miuccia’s genius — to be able to unearth the one thing in a vintage shop and know it will be a commercial success. Then to be able to copy it exactly.

Vintage clothes are often the jumping-off point for many fashion collections. One of Nigel Cabourn’s most recognizable outerwear designs borrows from Sir Edmund Hillary’s mountaineering parka. Maison Margiela literally has a line called Replica, where they reproduced vintage clothes found in thrift shops and flea markets. Japanese lines such as The Real McCoys and Buzz Rickson are based on the same ethos. In an interview with The Fashion Law, Courtney Love said of Slimane’s Saint Laurent’s collections: “It reminds me of Value Village. Real grunge. I love that rich ladies are going to pay a fortune to look like we used to look when we had nothing.”

Thrifting is often recommended as a way to build a quality wardrobe on a budget. But there’s another reason to shop second-hand: the clothes are often cooler. They have interesting details and a patina that’s hard to achieve if you’re a cubicle farmer like me. Many of the most stylish men I know either wear vintage exclusively or mix second-hand clothes into their outfits, such as Alessandro Squarzi, Aaron Levine, Peter Zottolo, Ethan Newton, and of course, our own Jesse Thorn.

That said, I don’t always know what to buy. So I recently reached out to one of my favorite vintage dealers, Brian Davis of Wooden Sleepers, to see what he recommends. “I like things that don’t scream vintage,” he says, “but they have a special detail, fabric, or a feel that makes them unique.” Here are ten things Brian thinks are better bought used.

LL Bean’s Chamois Shirts

“Of course, you can buy one of LL Bean’s chamois shirts today new, but the new ones often come in boring colors such as grey or navy. Whereas, in the 1980s, they made them in teal, purple, and my favorite, yellow. Even in more standard colors such as red or navy, the fabric breaks down and gets really soft when these have been washed a million times. The colors become muted, and they look charming. The cut and details are also different. Vintage chamois shirts have scalloped, workwear styled shirttails that were meant to be tucked. I actually wear them untucked, often over an oxford shirt like a shirt jacket. I live in an old house that’s drafty, so it’s always cold. LL Bean’s chamois shirts can be a nice layering piece in this way.”

Heritage Sweaters

“I like sweaters that were made in the regions in which they were born. If I’m looking for a vintage Shetland sweater, I want one that was made in Scotland. If it’s an Irish Aran, I want one from Ireland. Sometimes, when shopping in this way, it means you’ll come across brands that you’ve never heard of, but that just makes the sweater more interesting to me.”

Brooks Brothers’ Oxford Cloth Button-Downs

“In recent years, Brooks Brothers has tried to be everything to everybody. Their shirts today come in Milano and Madison fits, non-iron and must-iron fabrics, etc. But I think they were at their best when they were just distinctively Brooks Brothers. They were an icon for a reason. For their oxford cloth button-downs, I prefer the ones that have an unlined collar and were made in the USA. People often complain of the fit, as these tend to fit big and roomy. In the old days, a 15.5 neck shirt came with something like a 24″ chest, whereas nowadays they’re closer to maybe a 22″ chest. But when you put them together with the right things, everything comes together. You need to wear them with a higher rise pant. Then it’s like, “Oh, that’s the look. That’s the look of Paul Newman, Miles Davis, and ‘insert Tumblr menswear image here.'”

Derek: What do you say to people who are afraid of looking out-of-touch in these baggy shirts and high rise pants?

“I say mix it up. Some guys go full trad, and that can be great if it’s your style. But I like wearing mine with vintage military khakis or OG 107s. Instead of a navy blazer, I’ll pair mine with a military jacket or trucker jacket. Mix it up with less predictable outerwear options.”

Olive Fatigues and Military Khakis

“These are the pants I reach for the most. For as many detail-obsessed reproduction brands out there, I’ve never been able to find one that gets the right shade of tan or the feel of this vintage fabric. Like, how many brands out there have tried doing a WW2 chino? They may be good on their own terms, but they’re never exactly the same as the real thing. I don’t know if it’s because the looms they used aren’t around anymore or if it’s because these vintage pants have been washed a million times. It’s easier to find modern takes on the OG 107 fatigue, rather than the military khaki, but there’s still always something special about the originals.”

“I like how these have a higher rise and fuller fit. They’re not so great in the dead of winter because the lightweight fabric and fuller cut can let a lot of cold air inside. But I like wearing them in the spring through fall. I’ll pair them with a vintage Brooks Brothers oxford shirt, some Sperry CVO canvas sneakers, and white socks in the spring. Or even a tucked-in t-shirt. When the weather gets cooler, I like them with an untucked chambray shirt, a chore coat, and some heavy boots.

Derek: What details do you look for when shopping? Were these made with a different cut over the years?

“From the 1950s through the ’60s, almost any pair of military khakis or fatigues will have been made the same way. It wasn’t until about the ’80s when they started using a poly blend. When they were made with a poly blend, the fabric didn’t fade, and fading is the best part. They also changed the fit, so the new ones looked more like a Dickies work pant. Some people may find that slightly tapered look more flattering, but I like the big 9″ opening. I recommend trying to get the all-cotton ones made before the 1980s. All the manufacturing info will also be stamped on the inside pocket, so you can see where and when they were made. If you’re into this stuff, those details can be fun.”

Levi’s Made-in-USA 501s

“Levi’s is such an old company, and there’s so much to know, sometimes hunting for a pair of vintage Levi’s can feel intimidating. But when I was coming of age in the early ’90s, I admired guys like Kurt Cobain, who wore 501s. He probably didn’t spend $800 on a pair of rare Levi’s. He probably just wore whatever was around at the time. I think if you hunt for a pair like that, it can look great. The 1980s and ’90s 501s were the last era of made-in-USA Levi’s jeans. They weren’t even selvedge; they were just the regular 501s that anyone could buy. There’s something very approachable and unpretentious about that.”

“Of course, if these didn’t look good, then none of this would matter, but I think they have a cut that looks very contemporary. It’s what a lot of guys are looking for now: a slightly higher rise, a little more room through the seat and thigh, and a very gentle taper. These look good with camp mocs, canvas sneakers, and boots. Plus, when you have a pair of jeans that have been authentically faded, they’re always going to look better than those that are new and chemically processed. I like the ones that were made in the 1980s or early ’90s. I wear them from about spring through fall, but once it gets really cold, I switch to a heavier pair of Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1955 501s in raw denim. It has a bit more room through the leg, which is how I like my pants nowadays.”

Barbour’s Waxed Cotton Jackets

“Rogan at A British Jacket is an obsessive collector. If you’re looking for a vintage Barbour, even if it’s super obscure, there’s a good chance he has one for sale. I bought one from him, and it fits like a glove. Mine is a vintage Bedale with straight chest pockets, whereas the new Bedale model has slanted hand warmers. It’s just one of those details where, if you’re into this kind of stuff, you know it’s an older model when you see it. Also, the more these things get worn, patched up, darned, and broken in, the better they look. To be sure, there’s a fine line between a beautiful, vintage Barbour and one that stinks to hell. If you get one that smells, just send it to New England Reproofers for a professional cleaning.”

LL Bean’s Field Coat

“When Todd Snyder collaborated with LL Bean, they brought me in for a side project. We wanted to tell the history of LL Bean through some of the company’s more iconic pieces. Of course, we had to include their field coat. I recently learned that LL Bean never called it a barn coat, which is the term most people use today. That was the name J. Crew gave the style. But LL Bean called it their Maine Duck Hunting Coat or field coat, which makes more sense since they designed it for hunters. I’ve always loved this photo of Andy Warhol wearing his. So for a long time, I’ve been looking for one made in the 1980s, when that photo was taken. I was so happy to find one finally. The canvas is so thick and rough. I love the coat because it feels like the quintessential version of this style.”

“If your wardrobe leans trad, then you can wear one with a Shetland sweater, an oxford cloth button-down, some chinos, and a pair of loafers. But if you favor a more rugged style, you can wear one with raw denim jeans, a chambray shirt, and maybe something like a Browns Beach vest underneath. That’s how I tend to wear mine.”

Derek: How do you know when a jacket was made?

“You can date LL Bean’s items by their label. Anything made before the 1980s will have a script label. If you see an item with a multi-colored label and a mountain range, that item will have been made sometime in the 1980s or ’90s.”

A2 Deck Jacket

“Everyone who’s into vintage wants an N1 deck jacket, which is the US naval jacket produced in the 1940s. It’s made from a hard-wearing jungle cloth and is lined in alpaca. If you can find one in your size and it’s not completely destroyed, it will be costly. The A2 is a descendent of that jacket. It’s made for a similar function, but the US government made a lot more of them, so they’re easier to come by and thus more affordable. Last winter, it was my go-to jacket. The cut is trim and flattering. Since winters here aren’t as cold as they used to be, I don’t find myself reaching for my heavy-duty outerwear as much. This has a wool lining, so it’s warm, but not overly so. It’s a lighter-weight winter jacket that you can wear with chambray shirts, a rolled-up watch cap, some jeans, and a pair of boots. At the same time, if you favor a more trad style, you can also wear it with chinos and an Irish Aran.”

Big Mac’s Chambray Shirts

“The best part about these is that they’re readily available, but you have to look closely at the labels. Sometime in the 1970s or ’80s, the company switched to a poly-cotton material. I think the all-cotton ones are best. When you find them, they’re usually affordable. Over the years, I’ve owned chambray shirts from all the usual suspects, such as Engineered Garments. But I grab my Big Mac shirts most, partly because the fabric is so broken-in and soft. These vintage work shirts tend to be big, roomy, and slightly boxy because they were designed to be utilitarian. Manufacturers were focused on mobility.”

Levi’s Type III Trucker Jacket

“This is like Vintage 101. If you’re a guy who has never bought vintage clothing before, I recommend starting with this. Levi’s Type III trucker jackets look good on most people. Of course, you can buy a new one nowadays at any Levi’s store, but the vintage ones have an authentically broken-in look that you can’t find new. I think the best ones were made in the 1960s. The fabric feels different; the cut is flattering. They have higher armholes, slimmer arms, and a slimmer torso. They fall at the right places. As you get into the 1980s, the armholes are lower, the sleeves baggier, and the body bigger. To find one from the ’60s, look for the ‘big E’ on the red tab. That’s the telltale sign. I pair them with basically anything except blue jeans — olive fatigues, tan chinos, black jeans, or even seersucker pants.”

Derek: Thanks for your time, Brian! Readers interested in shopping for these vintage pieces can browse eBay or Etsy. Alternatively, Brian at Wooden Sleepers will also have many of these items at his store. Not everything in his inventory is on his webshop, so if you’re interested in buying something, send him a message on Instagram. I find that Brian is especially good at finding the best version of any specific thing. So even if the item isn’t particularly rare, he’ll often have a version of it that has interesting details. Last year, I purchased a vintage Lee trucker jacket from him. It’s beautifully broken-in with all sorts of cool repair details. Brian’s prices are a little higher than what you can expect to pay on eBay, but for me, worth it to not have to hunt around. Plus, he can advise on sizing.

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Inside Track: January 10th – January 16th Edition

Sun, 10 Jan 2021 08:34:18 GMT

Here are our hand-selected favorites from eBay for this week, plus heads-up on recommended sales. If you’re a member of the Inside Track, log in with your CrateJoy username and password.

If you’re not a member, you can join now for just $5 a month. You’ll get access to one of these members-only lists every week, and your membership supports Put This On!

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#PTOMan Highlights

Fri, 08 Jan 2021 18:37:03 GMT

Our Instagram followers are some stylish people so, once a week, we like to bring you some highlights from our feed. Alexandre mixes Uniqlo with vintage, Nicke shows how you can wear charcoal trousers, Willy layers with a chimayo vest, and M.C.K wears a beautiful overcoat.

If you want to be featured follow us on Instagram and tag your photos with #PTOMan. Bonus points for full-body shots as opposed to just shoes or collars.

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EBay Roundup

Fri, 08 Jan 2021 18:30:19 GMT

Suits, sport coats, and blazers

Brown linen Eidos suit, 38
Tan Formosa houndstooth tweed, 42L (pictured above)

Outerwear

Sweaters and knits

Shirts and pants

Shoes

Misc.

Pink pocket square

If you want access to an extra roundup every week, exclusive to members, join Put This On’s Inside Track for just five bucks a month.

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Style & Fashion Drawings: The Best Hiking Boots

Wed, 06 Jan 2021 18:31:46 GMT

The post Style & Fashion Drawings: The Best Hiking Boots appeared first on Put This On.