These springtime lemons are of a variety (Real) that produces enormous fruits with thick skin and pith and juice that is not very acidic, though not quite sweet. Known in Málaga as cascarúo, they are traditionally sold by street vendors, peeled, quartered, and sprinkled with salt, to be eaten out of hand. They also can be chopped up into a gazpacho in place of tomatoes.Thi...

 Pot-roasted brisket with vegetables.I finally got my brisket, a cut of beef that is not readily available from Spanish butchers. I stumbled onto a specialty butcher and, yes! He pulled a whole brisket from his cold locker. I’m not sure why the supermarket butchers don’t sell it—perhaps it is a cut used for grinding into burger mix. The brisket, called pecho, or breast, is ...

 This chocolate-almond torte is a perfect dessert for Easter, Passover, or any special occasion.My all-time favorite dessert, the Santiago Almond Torte, got a makeover for Easter. I added chocolate. While searching for similar almond torte recipes, I came across a bunch that were special for Passover, the Jewish spring festival that often coincides with Easter. Just swap ma...

 Batter-fried shrimp.I remember my first Semana Santa in Málaga--60 years ago!—ducking into a tapas bar while processions were wending their way through city streets. We ordered a vinito and tapas. I already had sampled bacalao, salt cod, the emblematic food for Holy Week. But here were so many other seafood-based possibilities. We ordered a media-racion (half-plate) o...