Meandering the Blue Highways

The Long and Winding Road from California to Washington, Part 6: North through California

Thu, 06 Jan 2022 02:08:00 +0200

October 15-18, 2021

After ten days on the road enjoying Arizona, we were back in California making that right hand turn for Washington to spend time with Doug's children and a few friends. We now had six days to work our way to Seattle—plenty of time to meander and explore. For Doug this was rather comfortable, for his usual MO is to drive there in one day.

California: Day 1: East Side of Sierras. Day 2: South Lake Tahoe. Day 3: A Blustery Drive to Susanville. Day 4: Tulelake.

If we had driven I-5, the fastest route to Seattle, the drive would have been 1,159 miles and 18.5 hours. We actually didn't drive much further—1,295 miles—or longer—24.75 hours. But instead of divided highways and looking at vehicles for hours on end, we wandered up two-lane roads with great vistas in all directions.

Driving north on the east side of the Sierras.

As we drove north on the east side of the Sierras through the Owens Valley we again savored the views of the valley, the Sierras to the west, and the White Mountains to the east. In the early-20th century, water rights in the area were sold to Los Angeles. Large pipes were built on the west side of Owens Valley to carry the water to LA. If you've ever driven over the "Grape Vine" on I-5 South, you've probably seen the huge pipes snaking over the hills. Almost a century later, LA agreed to stop diverting as much water, but what was once farmland remains vast open space, and dangerous dust rises from the alkali that covers much of the lake bed. Marc Reisner's excellent 1986 book Cadillac Desert documents the political wars over Los Angeles water, and in the 1974 film Chinatown, Jack Nicholson plays a private detective who in his investigation of of her matters uncovers corruption in a Los Angeles water project.

Owens Lake with the White Mountains to the east.

Alkali covers much of Owens Lake bed. We recently read that there has been an attempt to reduce the hazardous dust by coating parts of the lake.

Our first night out of Barstow was to be the Alabama Hills. The area sits below Mt. Whitney with amazing views and rock formations. It's a place we love and have boondocked at numerous times, twice in the spring of this year. We reached the Alabama Hills about 3:00 PM, the perfect time to stop according to our 300 miles or 3:00 PM rule. Unfortunately, we didn’t check Campendium before going there, and, to our surprise, we found that camping is no longer allowed in our favorite area on the west side of Movie Rd.

Alabama Hills: Mobius Arch with Mt Whitney beyond.

BLM personnel at a pop-up site informed us this was due to folks loving the place to death. Rather than appreciating the beauty, too many people were loud and left their trash behind. Now camping is limited to a bit over 50 sites on the east side of Movie Road. It definitely is a loss to those of us who would have been willing to dedicate time to help clean up the area in order to keep it open.
We drove Movie Rd through the rest of the area but found no sites available. It was already 4:00 when we again consulted Campendium. The app once again led us to a great campground, Pleasant Valley, though it was another 70 miles to the north.

Pleasant Valley Campground on Owens River north of Bishop.

Once we figured which sites were available, we found ourselves camped on on the Owens River in a spacious and quiet spot. We'll definitely return.

The next morning, we headed back to Bishop to buy bread at Schatt's Bakery before continuing north to Mono Lake.

East side of the Sierras north of Bishop.

Once we arrived at the Mono Lake Visitors Center we found that it was already closed for the season. Fortunately the area had many informative signs, which we enjoyed.

Mono Lake has two main islands: Negit, on the left, and Paoha, the larger, on the right.

Like Owens Lake, Mono Lake had its water diverted to Los Angeles for decades. The water level became so low that a land bridge formed from the lake's shores to Negit Island, which allowed coyotes easy access to the annual migrating bird populations. Several organizations were eventually successful in reducing the amount of water sent to LA and restoring the lake to a level that again allows for a safe stopover on the Pacific Flyway.

Mono Lake tufa towers.

In addition to the water wars, Mono Lake is known for its tufa towers, white calcium deposits.

Rubber rabbitbrush (yellow flowers) and big sagebrush on shores of Mono Lake.

9- X 13-mile Mono Lake was beautiful under seering blue skies.

After an enjoyable visit it was off to South Lake Tahoe to visit Marilyn's sister and brother-in-law. Enroute we were saddened to see the burnt areas from the summer's Tamarack and Caldor Fires. Our visit with them in August had been cut short by the Caldor Fire, which eventually forced all of South Lake Tahoe to evacuate for a week. Our initial plan was to stay another day so Marilyn and her sister could spend more time together, but once again nature had a different plan. The weather reports were ominous, so we were back on the road north by noon the next day.

We were on 395, which from Tahoe dips into Nevada before returning the California.

The wind was again blowing. Just south of Hallelujah Junction CA, there were warning signs.

Um...that would be us...

Yes, our van is designated "high profile," but unlike the VW buses that Doug has driven for decades, it stayed in the lane.

Only 75 miles to go...

Johnstonville is just south of our night's destination of Susanville, or 75 more miles of amazing wind. There were huge clouds of dust, in addition to the gray and puffy white clouds, moving across the sky.

Clouds of dust blew across the landscape,...

...across barren fields,...

...and across the road.

Driving once again got a bit more exciting for awhile, and a few gusts definitely got Doug's attention, but that was it.

Except for the dust, it was a beautiful drive past fields of alfalfa...

...headed for happy California cows that were hunkered down amid the dust storm.

With the wind making it even colder, we decided against boondocking that night. We arrived in Susanville in time to buy a couple of items for the van, then checked into Days End RV Park, another Campendium find. It was everything the review said it would be, and for only $35: pleasant owners, neatly kept campground, electricity to run our electric heater and not use gas on the gas-powered one that lives under the passenger seat. Marilyn was pleased that not only was the bathroom impeccably clean and the showers plenty warm, but it also had everything a woman can want in a shower stall when camping and usually doesn't get: a seat, shelves, and multiple hooks. There was even a basket of soap, shampoos, and conditioners! And we could have done laundry if we'd needed to. An additional treat was the rooster at the neighboring farm that woke us in the morning—in time to enjoy the night's snow on the roads.

Snow heading north out of Susanville.

   We didn't know where we were going except roughly north toward Bend, OR. Looking at the map we did the obvious: take the less-traveled route north to Alturas then east.
   As we approached Tulelake, we saw signs for Lava Beds National Monument, and decided we'd drive through it. Despite AAA maps, GPS, and Google maps, we missed the turnoff and found ourselves in the town of Tulelake. Doug found the only gas station—a single pump outside a tiny market—by following his very capable nose.
   Before going back to Lava Beds, we wanted to stop at the former site of the Tule Lake Internment Camp, now a national monument. It was 1 of 10 such places around the country in which Japanese-American citizens were forced to live during World War II,surrounded by barbed wire and guard towers. Tule Lake was the last to close, not until 7 months after the war ended.

Entry gates and remaining building at Tule Lake Internment Camp.

The camp's buildings and land were then offered for free or little money to encourage people, including WWII veterans, to homestead in the area.

Marker at Tule Lake Internment Camp.

At Lava Beds National Monument Visitors Center, we learned that all but 3% of the monument had been burned over the last two years, 70% by the 2020 Caldwell Fire and another 27% by the 2021 Antelope Fire. Grasses and shrubs are beginning to return to the 2020 burn area, and hopefully areas burned in 2021 will begin to recover over the next year.

97% of Lava Beds burned in 2020 and 2021 wildfires. Juniper— the blackened trees—will hopefully come back.

Medecine Lake Volcano, which has been erupting off and on for half a million years, created the lava beds. The monument's 73 square miles cover only about 10% of the 410-acre volcano, which forms a hill to the south of the monument.

Medecine Lake Volcano underlies the lava beds and forms a hill to the south (we're not sure if this is the volcano or one of many cinder cones).

Another bit of local history is the Modoc War. The Modoc Indians lived in this area for thousands of years. Beginning in 1826, with the determination of the US to claim more and more land, white settlers began to move into the area. The two groups lived cooperatively, but in 1850, California's first governor decided the Modoc should be exterminated. In 1864, the Modoc were forced to move to a reservation in Oregon.

Modoc dugout canoe of Jennie Clinton, the last survivor of the Modoc War.

In 1872, Captain Jack (Kintpuash) led half the Modoc tribe back to Tule Lake, where they hid in the caves of the lava beds, which were well-known to them. By wit and determination, a mere 58 warriors held off 1,000 soldiers for 8 months. General Canby was among those killed, which included only 6 Modoc. The US spent the equivalent of over $8 million in today's dollars on the Modoc War, at the end of which the Modoc were again deported from their land. Their descendants live in Oregon and Oklahoma.

The Modoc also made canoes of bundled tule stalks. (Photo from Lava Beds Visitor Center.)

In 1906, the Bureau of Reclamation began the Klamath Project to provide water for irrigation to develop farmland in Northern California and Southern Oregon. As part of the project, beginning in 1908, Tule Lake was periodically drained. Settlement was encouraged through a homesteader lottery for land. For eons, Tule Lake had been an "intermittent" lake, at times cut off by lava flows from Medecine Mountain Volcano, at times overflowing from precipitation, and at times so low it had no outflow. Since the Klamath Project began, there has been ongoing conflict between farmers and environmentalists. In 2021, the conflict over water rights heated up substantially.

Doug at our Indian Well Campground site.

Leaving the Visitors Center, we made our way to Lava Beds' Indian Well Campground, which was all but empty. We chose a spacious site on the outside of a loop with 360-degree views.

Indian Well Campground, Lava Beds National Monument: camped amid burnt trees.

Marilyn thought the picnic tables made of wood and lava rocks were some of the most artistic she'd seen.

We were in a burn area from the recent wildfires, yet there were signs of life.

In addition to lava, there are many cinder cones like the one in the background.

We are forever reorganizing the van, Marilyn the inside and Doug the garage, of the perfect system.

Marilyn's latest reorganization of the overhead kitchen cabinets.

We so enjoyed our latest addition to the van, new drawers that run the full depth of the garage. These have simplified organization there and eliminated all the bins Doug used to have to sling around.

Drawers have made garage organization infinitely better. Removable table on right side is for cooking on our 2-burner camp stove. Marilyn made the pocket organizers on the doors.

Ever the optimists, we'd brought our inflatable kayaks, but unfortunately they remained in their suitcases the entire trip.

Inflatable kayaks are in the 2 gray suitcases.

At the Lava Beds we experienced one of the coldest nights of the trip, but despite the cold and the frosty campground, Marilyn was up and out early to make coffee. (Doug is pampered, often getting his coffee in bed, even when traveling.) On her trek to the restroom she greeted the workmen who were already busy constructing a new handicapped site.

Marilyn braved the frost to get coffee going on the JetBoil outside.

We opted to enjoy our coffee inside the van with the heater on before getting on the road again.

Icey windshield. Yes, it was cold!

With its caves and lava tubes, Lava Beds is popular with spelunkers. Doug couldn't resist checking out a couple of cave entrances before leaving and persuaded Marilyn to descend the ladders, also.

Ladder into cave--we didn't go beyond the entrance.

Marilyn courageously entered a cave.

When bats are in residence, caves are closed.

Numerous holes lead to caves, not all of them covered, so you have to be aware when walking on the ground above. We would like to return when we can actually explore further

Marilyn walks cautiously around a cave, wary of hidden holes.

Hole dropping into cave partially hidden by brush.

We were glad to see new plants emerging from the landscape blackened by wildfires.

Sagebrush reemerging after the wildfires.

Bunchgrass & rabbitbrush.

Rabbitbrush buds.

Leaving Tulelake, our van odometer reached 20,000 miles. Not bad for not quite two years since we bought it, including a year of pandemic, with little travel.

We reached 20,000 miles of travel in the van in less than 2 years.

Now, where should we head as we continued north toward Washington, since we still weren't due for three days? Doug was comfortable, Yet, he thought, less planning means more flexibility...

Note: For those, who, like Marilyn, are linguistically and grammatically inclined, the spelling is Tulelake for the town and Tule Lake for the internment camp, the lake, and the national wildlife refuge.

Alaska 1: The Ferry

Wed, 29 Dec 2021 23:54:00 +0200

June 24-29, 2017

After prepping for our trip to Alaska in every way we could think of; helping to move Doug's son Andrew and wife Devon from Quantico, VA, to Bellingham, WA, where they now rent our house; and spending time in Washington with friends and all of Doug's kids, it was almost departure day.

Doug decided to move Father’s Day to our departure day, and so on Saturday, June 24, for the first time ever, all of Doug's family were together: daughter Katie and husband, Javier; Andrew and Devon; and us. We had lunch at Mambo Italiano in Fairhaven, the more upscale area of Bellingham, where the ferry terminal is also located.

Drew, Devon, Katie, Marilyn, Doug, Javier

Too soon, it was time to check in at the ferry terminal—then sit and wait for a couple of hours in the sun and 85-degree temps, an unusually hot day for northwest Washington. When it was finally our turn, it was start your engines and board!

Boarding the MV Kennicott, our home for the next 5 days.

Loading vehicles on a ferry is a science. For our5-day, 1,400 nautical mile voyage to Whittier, the crew nudged the cars, vans, RVs, U-Haul trucks, and motorcycles as closely together as possible and strapped them down front and back.

The Traverse, tied down for the voyage

With the Traverse strapped in place, it was time to take our gear to our 5 x 7 roomette. This necessitated four trips up the elevator to the Sundeck, level 8, and left us with little room for ourselves. We'd be able to go to the car deck three times daily to retrieve and return items to the van. For many, going to the car deck meant walking their dogs, who unfortunately were restricted to the vehicles the rest of the time.

Doug got the top bunk and Marilyn the bottom.

The first thing I did the next morning was to cart things back to the van that we definitely could live without on the ferry!

Bunks converted to table & bench seats.

The table and bench seats converted to one bunk and the other folded down. If either of us sat up in bed, we would hit our head. For each bunk, there was a tiny shelf, a light with outlet, and hooks on each side. The bottom bunk had a porthole that provided light and a view of the legs of passersby on the deck. The bunks took up most of the roomette, and we didn't spend much time trying to keep it neat, a losing battle.

It was nearly impossible trying to keep the roomette neat, between hanging towels to dry and storing food and clothes.

Shortly before 6:00 PM we were on deck as the ferry pulled out. It was amazing watching one of the deck hands, a diminutive woman with spiked black hair and mirrored shades, haul in the 3-inch bow rope, and stow it. Then she took up the position on the bow of an extra set of eyes as the ferry began to navigate among the many small sail boats and kayaks in Bellingham Bay.

This tiny woman at the bow had just pulled up the 3" bow rope.

Navigating out of Bellingham Bay.

Doug finally fulfilling his dream of taking the ferry to Alaska.

We slid past Bellingham, watched snow-capped Mount Baker until it disappeared, and were soon moving up the coast of Washington toward Canada.

Mt Baker east of Bellingham.

Awhile later, passing between Vancouver and Vancouver Island, we recalled sitting in a hot tub a few years back at the bed and breakfast of my cousin's inlaws in Courtenay, Vancouver Island, watching cruise ships race up the Straits of Georgia.

Passing Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

We both remarked how pleased we were that once again we were not on a gigantic cruise ship. Instead we were on a ferry with only 497 other passengers. In our midst were numerous young Coast Guard families who were traveling to new duty stations in Alaska for the next three to four years. Many had taken advantage of the move to drive across the country, visiting family, friends, and sights along the way. All were so positive and excited about moving to the small Alaskan ports.

We so enjoyed chatting with the parents and watching the kids play--the ferry was so accommodating to young families, with numerous play areas. Some babies were just learning to walk, and should be stars after mastering their first steps on a rolling ferry! Being around these folks made us proud again of our men and women in uniform, who go where they are called, even remote duty stations in Alaska, where in winter these young families will have to adapt to days with as little as three hours of daylight.

View from our porthole.

Sunset, 9:15 PM

Doug had always said that he would be happy sleeping on deck. The first night he grabbed his sleeping bag (a car camping bag, not a warm down one) and headed out to the deck right next to our room. There he found a plastic lounge chair near two other hearty souls and nestled in. With the ferry making 17 knots (think 20 mph) and a good head wind causing his sleeping bag to flutter vigorously, he drifted off to sleep—thinking that perhaps this was not the best scenario. Around 4:00 AM, he awoke to realize that he was the only one left, grabbed his bag, returned to the room, and climbed up to the warm top bunk.

Inside Passage

We continued all that night and all the next day, traveling into the Inside Passage, where land seemed so close at times that someone with a good arm could throw a ball to shore. We walked the multiple decks, sat and read in the various lounges, met fellow travelers, ate food we’d brought aboard and food from the cafeteria, and slept rather well in our bunks.

Inside Passage

We found our fellow passengers and the ship’s crew to be very open. We especially hit it off with Chuck and Diane, Kenai Peninsula residents. It didn’t hurt that Chuck and Doug are the same age (Chuck is actually eleven days older) and both Vietnam vets. They invited us to join them for breakfast when we docked in Ketchican the second morning. The four of us took a taxi to the Cape Fox Lodge on the hill at the top of town and watched float planes land in the bay. After breakfast, we walked back down the hill and wandered around until it was time to return to the ferry. We had dinner with them that night in the cafeteria, and they exacted promises to visit them in Ninilchik when we go to the Kenai later in our trip.

Ketchican

Totems at Cape Fox Lodge, Ketchican

Float plane landing in Ketchican Harbor

I wanted to stay up all night as we continued to cruise through the Inside Passage the third night, but despite the night sky that only darkens somewhat more than twilight from about 11:00 PM to 2:00 AM, we slept soundly and awoke to the ferry docking in Juneau the third morning. Doug debarked and walked a bit, but I stayed on board, counting on our planned visit to Juneau en route home.

Leaving Juneau

View from cafeteria.

We departed Juneau at noon and were soon out in the open water of the Gulf of Alaska. It was colder and rainy. Our numbers had decreased to only 126 passengers. People read, played cards and games, did jigsaw puzzles, visited. Then suddenly the ferry was in a tight channel and passengers were pouring out to the bow to marvel at the crew’s skill and enjoy the views of the multiple towering islands.

Lislanski Inlet near Cape Bingham, where the ferry hung out a bit then made a U-turn

We would later learn, as the ferry made an amazing U-turn in the narrow channel, that because we were ahead of schedule we either had to stop for an hour to cede the lane to other vessels or, as the captain elected to do, make a left turn into the channel and allow the crew to get some more practice time under their belts.

Back in open water, the gentle swaying and undulating we had so far experienced became more of a rock and roll. Doug retreated to his bunk, but I wandered the boat and read a few more hours before climbing into my own bunk.

Docked in Yakutat

We hit calmer waters in the morning as we docked in Yakutat at 6:00 AM. Doug walked and ate a little before taking more Bonine and sleeping. He will quickly tell you that motion sickness is no stranger to him, even if he was in the Navy. I walked to the roadside information booth, which was run by a cheerful young woman who had moved to Yakutat as an Americorps volunteer and stayed when she met and married her husband, a fisherman. The general store up the road across from the courthouse was impressively stocked with everything: fresh (expensive) produce, canned and dry goods, hardware, t-shirts and sweatshirts, and the DMV was in a room next door. I bought a few plums and donated to the local school fund.

Yakutat General Store

Soon after leaving port, we were rockin’ and rollin’ again. Walking the decks proved too difficult, but I did venture out once or twice and met Cary from Brisbane, Australia, a grandparent like us, who had begun his first bike trip ever in Vancouver and was rendezvousing with friends from home in Whitehorse, Canada. He was taking the train in addition to riding his “push bike,” as they call it Down Under, but he’d put in some long cycling days on Vancouver Island, including cresting a hill to see a bear cross in front of him.

11:15 PM our last night on the ferry

The fifth morning, the ride again smoothed as we entered Whittier Passage. Breakfast was served early, at 5:00 AM, prior to our 6:00 AM arrival.

Passage Canal, Whittier

By 6:20, the van was skillfully maneuvered off the ferry and we were driving around the tiny town of Whittier.

Exiting the ferry in Whittier

Now-abandoned Buckner Building, built during the Cold War to house military personnel in a "city under a roof": housing, stores, theater, rifle range, jail, library, church, etc. It is said to be haunted.

Begich Towers, where most of Whittier's 160 residents now live.

Leaving Whittier, we offered a ride to Tag, a fellow ferry passenger, and wished we could give Cary a ride, too, but we didn’t have room for his bike.

Whittier Tunnel entrance

We were in luck, as the one-way Whittier tunnel was open our direction. This unique 2.5-mile-long tunnel serves both trains and vehicles, one mode, one direction at a time, and is definitely a tight squeeze.

Inside the 2.5-mile-long Whittier Tunnel. Train tracks run down the middle. There's a big rig in front of us

Exiting Whitter Tunnel

We dropped Tag at Girdwood, then continued north along the Turnagain Arm, famous for its bore tide that surfers ride. We hope to see it when we go south again to the Kenai Peninsula later in our trip.

Turnagain Arm, where surfers ride the 10-foot-high bore tide

We saw our first wildlife of the trip, dall sheep on the hillside along Seward Highway.

Dall Sheep along the Seward Highway

Arrived in Anchorage, we did laundry, bought groceries, and had lunch with friends from home who were visiting their grandson.
We’d thought to overnight at Cabela’s in Anchorage, which is one of several businesses in the country that often offer free overnight parking. However, we found their parking lot overrun with 50 or so RVs, meaning lots of generator noise, as there are no quiet hours imposed in such facilities.

So we headed back south, found a spot at Bird Creek Campground in Chugach State Park along Turnagain Arm, and settled in for our first night on land in Alaska.

1st night in Alaska: Bird Creek Campground, Chugach State Park, south of Anchorage

The Long and Winding Road from California to Washington, Part 5: Granite Mountain Hot Shots, Quartzsite, London Bridge, Goodbye Arizona

Sat, 04 Dec 2021 20:53:00 +0200

October 14, 2021

Statue at Granite Mountain Hotshots Memorial State Park.

We worked with the realization that we needed to begin the northern part of our trek and head for Washington and Doug's kids. So our last morning in Arizona found us up early and ready to drive. First coffee, so back to Prescott and a nice coffee shop where we warmed with coffee and the sun on their patio. Then off we went, heading southwest.
Wait, didn't we say we needed to go north? One of those "you gotta go southwest to go north things," but then, what else is new with us?

The Long and Winding Road from Californina to Washington, Part 4: Tepees, Canyons, and Cliff Dwellings

Fri, 03 Dec 2021 16:44:00 +0200

October 12-13, 2021

After leaving Meteor Crater Natural Landmark, we had a 170-mile day. Our rule of thumb is to stop at 300 miles or 3:00 PM, whichever comes first, but less is always good.

Arizona Day 5: Meteor Crater; Holbrook; Mogollon Rim; Salt River Canyon. Day 6: Salada Cliff Dwellings.

We continued east on I-40 to Holbrook, where we stumbled upon the Wigwam Hotel on the old Route 66—yes, we traveled on Route 66 whenever possible. Not only were the rooms designed to resemble tepees, but each featured a classic car in front. Though all was in need of some TLC, it did present a window into the post-WWII era.

Wigwam Village was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2002.

The Long and Winding Road from Californina to Washington, Part 3: Winslow and Meteor Crater

Wed, 24 Nov 2021 00:18:00 +0200

October 11-12, 2021

Having decided the cold, snowy weather that was projected to the north was not our cup of tea, we headed south from the Grand Canyon. Over the next 6 days, we did our blog proud by meandering 1,100 miles around central Arizona.

Arizona Meander: Day 1: Hoover Dam; Williams. Days 2-3: Grand Canyon. Day 4: Meteor Crater; Winslow.

Wupatki and Sunset Crater Volcano National Monuments southeast of the Grand Canyon looked interesting on paper but they turned out to be along a 35-mile loop road. The road is reportedly paved, yet signs stated it required high clearance and possible 4WD, so we passed.
Then Doug said he'd always wanted to see Meteor Crater, so we headed toward Winslow AZ on Route 66.

The Long and Winding Road from California to Washington, Part 2: The Grand Canyon

Mon, 22 Nov 2021 22:00:00 +0200

October 8-10, 2021

Leaving Hoover Dam on the 4th day of what would turn out to be a 39-day trip, we encountered rain, a great way to wash off the dust from the Valley of Fire. Our destination was the Williams KOA, just south of the Grand Canyon, for showers and laundry.

We were glad not to be walking through the previous day's slot canyon when it poured rain for much of the day.

We arrived at Mather Campground in Grand Canyon National Park about 8:30 the next morning, hoping for a first-come-first-serve site. Folks were already in line—bundled up in camp chairs and chatting over hot mugs of coffee. Registration opens at 9:00, and, we learned, one must return each day for the first-come-first-serve sites. However, we were lucky: we not only got a site, but the ranger allowed us to reserve it for two nights.

A large, sunny campsite was welcome after the pouring rain on the drive from Hoover Dam.

It turned out to be an amazing site with a semicircle drive and lots of sun. As deer sauntered past, we put out our rug and tied our chairs to the table, to show the site clearly occupied.

Deer were unfazed by humans in the campground.

Most people congregate in Grand Canyon Village around the hotels, stores, and food vendors.

Driving to Grand Canyon Village, the roads were as confusing as we remembered, but we eventually found easy parking near the Mule Barn. (Neither the parking nor the roads show on the park map.) After all the miles of driving, the 1/4-mile walk across the train tracks and up the stairs to the village felt good.

Every time we see the Grand Canyon it is like the first time—it is just so special.

Near Kolb Studio, we watched a mule train with passengers on board finishing the 8-mile ascent up Bright Angel Trail from Phantom Ranch on the canyon floor. Backpackers stay at Bright Angel Campground. Lots of people were walking the trail, but just to the first tunnel, less than 1/4 mile from the South Rim, for a photo.

Mule Train ascending Bright Angel Trail from the canyon floor.

Looking down at Bright Angel Trail, which does not actually drop off at the end of the plateau.

Although the first steam-powered passenger train arrived at the South Rim in 1901, Grand Canyon National Park was not created until 1919. In 1903, the Kolb brothers built their photography studio near Bright Angel Trailhead, with the permission of the trail's then owner.

Kolb Studio

Fred Harvey, who'd been building hotels and restaurants along trainlines to capitalize on increased passenger travel, built El Tovar Hotel in 1905.

El Tovar Hotel

In 1914, Harvey built Lookout Studio to compete with Kolb Studio. Mary Colter designed the multi-level structure, which was built into the canyon's rim to allow visitors to photograph it from the edge and look at it through telescopes. Colter was the main architect and designer for the Fred Harvey Company from 1902 to 1948. Like many of her buildings and structures, Lookout Studio appears to grow from its surroundings, uses native materials, and reflects Native American culture.

Lookout Studio.

Colter also designed the 1905 Hopi House opposite El Tovar, modeling it on a 1,000-year-old Hopi pueblo dwelling.

Hopi House

An aside: the Fred Harvey Company was sold by his heirs to the company that eventually became Xanterra, now a familiar name at national park tourist operations.

Day two Doug dropped Marilyn off at what she thought was Bright Angel Lodge to see the Mary Colter fireplace a friend had urged us to see. By the time he'd parked again near the Mule Barn and walked back to the lodge, she'd figured out she was at the wrong hotel.

Grand Canyon Trails
Rim Trail: Hermit's Rest (west end) to South Kaibab Trailhead (east end): 13 miles.
Bright Angel Trail:15 mi RT; 4,380' elevation change.
South Kaibab Trail: 14 mi RT; 4,780' elevation change.
South Rim-to-Rim Trail (South Kaibab Trailhead to Bright Angel Trailhead): 16.5 mi; 4,780' elevation loss; 4,380’ elevation gain

We decided to avoid the crowds and walk east on the Rim Trail. It includes the Trail of Time, on which each meter represents 1 million years in the Grand Canyon's geologic history. The exact age of the canyon is not known. It was long thought that the Colorado River began to carve it around 6 million years ago, but a 2012-study indicated the process may have begun 70 million years ago!

How old is the Grand Canyon?

The Grand Canyon is also missing some rocks. It "offers one of the most visible examples of a worldwide geological phenomenon known as the Great Unconformity, in which 250 million-year-old rock strata lie back-to-back with 1.2 billion-year-old rocks. What happened during the hundreds of millions of years between remains largely a mystery" ("Facts About the Grand Canyon You Never Knew," https://www.nationalparks.org/connect/blog/8-facts-about-grand-canyon-you-never-knew).

West end of Trail of Time.

Elves Chasm gneiss, 1.84 billion years old

Quartermaster granite, 1.375 billion years old

Not quite 1 million years old.

We followed the Rim Trail to Yavapai Point, where one can return to the village by shuttle, but we opted to walk, a 3-plus-mile roundtrip. A young man we'd chatted with in the registration line the previous day was going to do the South Rim-to-Rim Trail that day, 16.5 miles with equal elevation gain and loss of 4,000-plus feet, and he didn't start until after 10:00!

How does that round rock near the upper right corner stay there?!?

We got back to Bright Angel Lodge minutes before the history room with the Mary Colter fireplace was closing. It's called the Geologic Fireplace because the stones layered from bottom to top represent the same layering of rock along Bright Angel Trail from the Colorado River to the rim of the Grand Canyon. All of the rock was gathered or cut from the canyon walls.

Geologic Fireplace at Bright Angel Lodge

From Bright Angel, we walked back to El Tovar and through the bar to the deck facing the canyon.

Grand Canyon is visible above and below the top rail.

There Doug had his traditional Bloody Mary (Marilyn had an IPA). He's not sure how many decades ago it started (maybe 4?) or why, but every time Doug goes to the Grand Canyon, he has a Bloody Mary on the El Tovar's wood deck.

Doug with his traditional El Tovar deck Bloody Mary.

Our final morning, we took the road east out of the Grand Canyon, stopping at Desert View Watchtower, another Mary Colter-designed structure, built in 1932.

Desert View Watchtower with kiva-like room in front.

The Watchtower is an interpretation of buildings of ancestral Puebloans of the Four Corners area. The round room resembles a kiva, a ceremonial and community structure, often built underground and entered through the top by a ladder.

Inside the Watchtower kiva-like room.

Carefully selected stones and design elements are all part of Colter's intentional reflection.

The plaque about Colter's design says these are actual petroglyphs with pecked designs.

Ornamental detail.

Trapezoidal window openings typical of ancient Native American buildings.

Support beams.

From the deck overhanging the canyon outside the Watchtower, we could see the muddy Colorado River far below and Kaibab Suspension Bridge crossing the river near Phantom Ranch.

Colorado River at bottom of Grand Canyon.

A footnote: In 1956, two planes, United and TWA, showing their passengers the Grand Canyon, collided over the canyon near the Watchtower, killing all 128 passengers and crew. The tragedy led to the creation of the FAA, and the site is a National Historic Landmark.

Heading east, we entered the Navajo Nation. Few of the roadside Native American art stands, typical of the Southwest, are open due to the pandemic, and most have few stalls open.

Native American Art Stand in the Navajo Nation.

We'd considered heading northeast through Arizona, Utah, and Colorado, but the weather was forecast to become colder, with possible snow. Though we've equipped the van for snow, we decided we wanted to stay warm. We then did our blog proud by meandering around central Arizona for a 7-day, 1,100-mile total.

Our 7-day, 1,100-mile meander around Arizona.

The Long and Winding Road from California to Washington, Part 1

Mon, 08 Nov 2021 02:12:00 +0200

It was summer and we were supposed to be gone, but we were home. Every day it was 100+ degrees and often smoky due to wildfires in the Sierras that were putting our beloved Sequoias in peril. It was time to plan a trip for fall. Out came the drywall board with maps. It was soon filled with pins of places we wished to visit, with our ultimate destinations Seattle and Bellingham, WA to see the kids. But where to first?

Our dining room table is frequently covered with maps.

Discussions ensued: should we go up the Pacific Coast? east to the Southwest then north? inland through California, Oregon, and Washington?

No matter the route, we planned to spend the first night in the Alabama Hills on the east side of the Sierras (we live on the west side).

As the map shows, we soon realized that visiting the Alabama Hills was a bit of a detour. Despite our meandering tendencies, it just didn't make sense to go there for the third time this year and then have to drive all the next day to get to Valley of Fire. So the night before departure, we crossed Alabama Hills off the route.

We were ready to go. All that was left was one last check of the house, until the door knob came off in Marilyn's hand when she opened the front door. This was not a duct tape job. But an hour later, we'd fixed the door knob and finally pulled out of the driveway.

Valley of Fire West Dispersed Camping, 55 miles northeast of Las Vegas.

Several hours later, driving past Las Vegas on the interstate, we commented again that we should spend a couple days there just being tourists, but not this time. We headed north on I-15 to Valley of Fire West Dispersed Camping, arriving in time for the first of many gorgeous sunsets during our trip.

Our 1st Valley of Fire campsite, behind the outhouse.

We Received Kudos!

Thu, 28 Oct 2021 01:00:00 +0200

Well, this is a first for us! We use the Campendium app to find campgrounds—parks, BLM, national forest land, private, boondocking—and decided since we really appreciate having the reviews to help us find a site, we should contribute our own reviews. So we've now written several reviews from our current trip to the Southwest and Pacific Northwest, and today we received this email!:

Liz (Campendium)

Oct 27, 2021, 12:53 PDT

Hi Marilyn & Doug,

Your recent review of Indian Well Campground on Campendium is featured in this week’s Top Five Campsites email!

Thank you for being an active part of the Campendium community. We appreciate your well-written reviews and awesome photos! Your contributions help other Campendium users find great spots to camp.

In addition to being featured in the weekly Top Five email, your review will also be featured on Campendium’s Facebook and Instagram accounts this week. Be sure to follow both, and feel free to share your feature with your friends and followers.

Thanks again - and happy travels!

Liz

Yay for us! Seriously, we were quite excited to be recognized.

Thanks as always for reading! We love to share our travels—it also reminds us where we've been—and are so appreciative that you take the time to read our blog.

Our Vans: A Brief History

Sat, 25 Sep 2021 15:34:00 +0200

I have enjoyed driving and camping in VW buses since my San Diego days in the '70s. I do think during my flying days I was the only Navy Pilot who drove onto a Naval Air Station in a VW bus, which always drew a second look from those at the gate. I now drive my 4th bus, a 1986 Westy Vanagon Weekender purchased in 2001.

Adjusting the valves in my 2nd bus, a '69 Westy, with my competent helper, Katie. Note the VW Idiot Book was open and probably saved me once again.

Wild Rose Campground, Death Valley

Sequoia National Park with my kids

Southwest 2021-18: Rhylote NV to Alabama Hills CA to Home

Mon, 14 Jun 2021 02:51:00 +0200

March 24-25, 2021

The next-to-last day of our trip, we left Red Rock Canyon near Las Vegas and meandered to Pahrump, Beatty, and Ryholite NV (see our Southwest 2021-17 post for more on those stops).

Rhylotite NV to home, Visalia CA.

We continued on CA 190 through Death Valley, making numerous several-thousand-foot descents and ascents en route to the Alabama Hills, where we'd camped the first night of our trip, five weeks earlier.

Southwest 2021-17: Nevada: Valley of Fire State Park, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, and Ryholite

Sat, 29 May 2021 19:54:00 +0200

March 24-25, 2021

Before leaving Kanab, Utah on the next-to-last day of our trip, we decided to head for Red Rock Canyon just west of Las Vegas. Marilyn Googled the campground, and to our amazement there was one site left. We booked it and headed out.

Snow-capped peaks west of Hurricane UT.

Our route from Kanab UT to Red Rock Canyon NV

took us in and out of Arizona.

Highway 89 took us south, dipping into Arizona. Soon we were driving through the state-line towns of Colorado City AZ and Hildale UT, once the stronghold of Mormon fundamentalists and Warren Jeffs. Many houses are huge, with multiple wings.

Typical multi-wing Mormon house in fundamentalist Colorado City AZ/Hildale UT--

though much more grandiose than many.

At Hurricane UT, we turned west to pick up I-15 toward Las Vegas. We passed by St George UT, then reentered Arizona, where the highway goes through the Virgin River Gorge, another beautiful drive.

Entering the Virgin River Gorge in northwest Arizona.

Virgin River Gorge

The Virgin River runs between the Beaver Dam Mountains to the north and the Virgin Mountains to the south. It's the border between the colorful, layered rock formations of the Colorado Plateau and the "mountain-and-basin" geography of the Mojave Desert.

Vehicles are dwarfed by the walls of the Virgin River Gorge.

At Moapa, we took the turn-off to Valley of Fire State Park and its amazing red Aztec limestone rock formations. Ancestral Puebloans lived in the area 2,500 years ago.

The colors in Valley of Fire are just amazing.

Valley of Fire SP east of Las Vegas.

The amazing Beehive formations are visible from the road.

Beehive rock formation

Numerous hikes lead to other incredible sights, such as Pink Canyon and the Fire Wave.

Big horn sheep along road in Valley of Fire State Park.

On our way out, we were treated to a herd of big horn sheep—our second of the trip!

As it was getting late and time to head toward Las Vegas, we promised ourselves to return to take better advantage of the park and headed out. Having reservations does put a damper on some of our meandering.

We arrived at Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area west of Las Vegas about an hour later. Doug parked the van on our site, which, like the one pictured below, was rather sloped.

Promaster in site next to ours, with similar elevation,
rather looks like it's flying.

Then Marilyn said she wanted to try the camp host's suggestion to park sideways. Doug drove what seemed to be a mile inside the camp site following Marilyn's signals to go back, forth, up, down, and around, and succeeded in wedging the van in sideways.

They used large rocks to assist with

getting the van up onto the blocks.

Then Marilyn concluded that no matter how many blocks we put under the tires, we'd still be rolling out of bed. So Doug drove another 2 or so miles unwedging the van, drove it straight in, put a couple of blocks under the front wheels, and we had a reasonably level van—and a nice windbreak for the picnic table.

Doug relaxing in our campsite at Red Rock Canyon.

We mentioned that Marilyn scored the last campsite. After finally settling in, Doug met a gent who had doubled up in another site. That morning he'd been about 30 seconds from securing our site with the camp host when we pushed "reserve." Before leaving the next morning, we helped him move his tent to our site to ensure it'd be his.

We didn't drive through the paid scenic area of Red Rock Canyon, but the view from our campsite was pretty sweet.

Leaving Red Rock, our destination was the Alabama Hills, bringing us full circle from our first night of the trip five weeks before.

Typical of us, we drove south to go north.

But of course we had to meander our way there. Rather than jumping on 95 and going straight to Death Valley, we took a road Doug had seen on the map that went south, then west, then northwest to the desert town of Pahrump NV and ultimately Beatty, NV.

I don't think I've ever seen as many billboards heading into a town as there are in Pahrump NV.

And then there are interesting nature signs.

Western deserts are populated by wild burros and horses.

Road signs warned of wild burros and horses and a $500 fine if one were to feed them. So when we entered Beatty, NV, what did we see a block from downtown?

But they're so cute!

At Beatty, we got gas, knowing it was over a dollar less than in Death Valley and turned west our first rather steep climb of the day, up over the hill and down to the ghost town of Rhyolite. Named for the volcanic rock in the area, Ryholite came into existence in 1904, with the discovery of gold. The town grew to about 4,500 people. It had everything: a school, restaurants, a three-story building, train station, opera house, and all the modern day amenities—electricity, running water, telephones. Then came the 1906 San Francisco Earthquake, which led to a recession, panic, and the financial crisis in 1907, and Ryholite died.

Looking from the cemetery to Ryholite townsite up against the hills.

We've walked through the town several times. Our destination this time was the cemetery, which Doug had learned of and explored on an early 2020 trip to Death Valley.

Mounds in the foreground repeat row after row into the distance.

The cemetery is eerie, with rows of mounds lined up as far as the eye can see.

Wood grave marker and fence.

Wooden grave markers either rotted out or had the names worn off by blowing sand. Other sites were outlined with stones or had crosses made of stones.

The stones were perhaps original, perhaps added in later years.

Quite a few mementoes were left by the graves.

We were amazed to see about a dozen recent markers in the cemetery.

Perhaps one of most famous people whose final resting place is in Rhyolite Cemetery is Mary Elizabeth Madison, AKA Panniment Anne.

Panniment Anne's grave site by a Joshua tree.

Born in Washington, DC, in 1912, her colorful life included several husbands and eight children, four of whom survived. Tuberculosis first took her to Shoshone Hot Springs just south of Death Valley in 1929. She began prospecting nine years later, accompanied in the summers by her youngest

daughter.

Mementoes at Panniment Anne's grave site.

Pondering the lives of those whose identities were blown away with the wind, we left Rhyolite in time to drive through Death Valley and over the White Mountains to find a campsite in the Alabama Hills before dark.

Southwest 2021-16: Goosenecks State Park, Monument Valley, Pahreah, and the Fog-Snow-Rain-Hail-Sleet Day

Sat, 24 Apr 2021 05:52:00 +0200

March 22-23, 2021

All aboard!

Our route from Goosenecks to Kanab

When we arrived at Goosenecks State Park after driving down the Moki Dugway, we paid $5 to enter. The campsites near the entrance didn't entice us, but as we drove down the dirt road along the edge of the canyon carved by the San Juan River, we came to numerous sites we could definitely see staying in.

Is this what they call living on the edge?

We picked a site and parked about 10 feet from the edge of the canyon— a 1,000-foot drop—between the Goosenecks of the San Juan River, for which the park is named. Doug walked back to the pay booth and paid an additional $5 to camp for the night. Talk about expensive lodgings!

Satellite view of the Goosenecks of the San Juan River. Green arrows point to the Goosenecks and to our campsite on the edge of the Goosenecks.

Like the Colorado, the San Juan River twists and winds its way from its source at 14,000 feet until it flows into the Colorado 360 miles later at what is now Lake Powell. The Goosenecks are 6 miles long but cover a distance as the crow flies of 1.5 miles.

Doug standing at the Goosenecks.

There was a labyrinth, connected to a mini-labyrinth, right next to our campsite!

It was quite windy—the theme of our trip—so Doug turned the van broadside to the wind so the cargo door side would be protected, as would we, sitting outside.

Marilyn successfully navigated both labyrinths!

Those rock formations are much further away than they look.

Marilyn walked toward the end of the spit of land, thinking she'd go to the end. But when the air is so clear, distances are deceiving, and she turned back long before the end.

It's hard to get perspective when surrounded by such massive nature. The canyon dwarfs the van. The rock formation in the distance, which looks huge, is massive up close. The small white spot about halfway between our van and the rock formation is an RV.

Van at the Goosenecks of the San Juan River.

Not saying it was windy, but when the wind slamming into the side of the van woke Doug around midnight on a DARK night, Marilyn was already awake. We were both imagining the wind tumbling us over the edge of the canyon. Not that that would happen, but we both agreed it would be good if Doug moved the van to face into the wind. Then, of course, Marilyn imagined Doug would simply drive us over the edge. But somehow, he managed to wake himself to an alert state and execute a 270-degree turn, putting the van into the wind.

The van the next morning, after Doug turned it 270 degrees in the black of night.

Sunrise over the Goosenecks.

The morning clouds, with that menacing curl on the right, may have been a clue as to what lay ahead for us that day...

What to say? Mexican Hat Rock is amazing!

We left Goosenecks and drove to Mexican Hat Rock, for which Mexican Hat UT is named.

Monument Valley

From there, we drove along 89, which would eventually take us to Kanab UT.

We were driving through Monument Valley Tribal Park, which is on the Navajo Reservation and operated by them. Though it remains closed, we saw several small tour buses.

As we approached the grand formations in Monument Valley, we noticed they had dressings of snow.

The formations within the paid area are at a distance from the road, but those along the road are equally awe-inspiring.

As we got closer, fog rolled over the formations, increasing the sense mystery and spirituality of the rock formations.

Rock formation dressed in fog.

Monument Valley is in both Utah and Arizona, so going through it on 89, we crossed into Arizona.

More intriguing formations, also shrouded in fog.

We passed horses a number of times that more than likely were wild.

Not only was it foggy, but it had begun to snow. We were, after all, at about 5,000 feet in March.

The driving got exciting.

More amazing formations, rich with the colors of the Colorado Plateau.

From fog to snow to rain...

Then it warmed up a bit, and the snow turned to rain.

Bridge across Glen Canyon Dam on Colorado River.

At Page AZ, we drove across the Glen Canyon dam.

The Glen Canyon dam on the Colorado River creates Lake Powell, but crossing the bridge that day the lake looked more like a river.

Though we've camped along the Colorado River in numerous places, read books about it, and witnessed the effects of its diversion on the lush agriculture of our home state of California, it's still difficult to fathom that every drop of this 1,450-mile-long river, which averages 300 feet across and 20 feet deep, is committed via the 1922 Colorado River Compact among 23 Native American tribes, Mexico, and 7 US states.

Typical of our trip through the Southwest, the rock formations and colors were stunning.

Soon after Page, we crossed back into Utah, where Doug had another side trip in mind. It required finding a not-very-well-marked dirt road—which he did, of course.

Driving Pareah River Valley Road to the Pareah (Paria) town site.

Our destination was the Pareah town site, which was six miles down the sometimes-excellent-sometimes-a-bit-rough-sometimes-downright-ornery dirt Pareah River Valley Road.

As always in this part of the country, the vistas were more than worth the drive.

Who wouldn't want to live here? It's gorgeous!

The town of Pareah was settled along the Pareah River by Mormons in1 1865. It eventually comprised 47 families and 20 Paiute Indians. Frequent flooding led to the demise of the community after a few decades.

Beginning in the 1930s, the ghost town of Pareah was used as a movie set for Westerns.

Rapidly-approaching dark clouds as we explored the old town site.

With ominous clouds moving toward us, we decided we should probably head back to the main road...

Van made it up to Doug's former campsite.

...but not before Doug found the flat spot where he had once camped in the VW Westy and wanted to see if the van could make it up. Clearly, it could.

Doug drives. Marilyn takes pics outside in the hail.

To prove the van's (and Doug's) feat, we needed to record the van descending from the campsite. With Doug driving, Marilyn stood outside taking pictures—as it started to hail.

From fog to snow to rain to hail.

The dirt road became white with hail as we drove back to the main road. As Doug said, "Just another white-knuckle experience."

Back on the main road, the temp outside dropped to 32, and it continued to hail...

...and then the the hail changed to sleet...

...and the sleet changed to rain. Fortunately we had replaced the van's stock tires with snow tires before leaving on this trip.

Arrived in Kanab, we checked in at the campground we had reserved, did laundry, and got take-out hamburgers and fries from the drive-in across the street.

It was quite a day for us Central Californians who are accustomed to 275 days a year of sun and temps that rarely go below 60.

So we plugged in the van and turned on the heater, showered night and morning, and the next morning continued to work our way west toward home.

Next up: Valley of Fire and Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas, and Rhyolite Cemetery

Southwest 2021-15: Utah: Muley Point and Moki Dugway

Fri, 23 Apr 2021 04:19:00 +0200

March 22-23, 2021

Before we get going with our travels... Wow! Are we excited! We just checked our new email subscription service, Mail Chimp, and we have 12 new subscribers! Thank you, all, for signing up, especially because some of you had to sign up for the second time. That's because Google decided to no longer offer a subscription email service. After researching the options, we decided on Mail Chimp. Of course we'd love for everyone who hears about our blog to sign up. It's easy. In the left sidebar, you'll see Sign up here & our new posts will show up in your inbox. Yay! Just type your email in the box, click on Subscribe, and the next time we post—hopefully soon—you'll see it in your inbox. Thanks!

Bears Ears Buttes

After a night at Natural Bridges National Monument campground, we drove the loop road, stopping to walk to the viewpoints and wonder at some of the bridge. Exiting the monument, we stopped to look at the Bears Ears, the namesakes of Bears Ears National Monument. We wrote about these areas in detail in our Southwest 2021-14 post.

In Southwest 2021-14, we wrote about the 120-mile long Comb Ridge and Comb Wash. Their entire length is clearly visible on this satellite map. The blue line shows our drive from Natural Bridges to Muley Point, the Moki Dugway, and Goosenecks State Park.

We soon turned south toward the Moki Dugway. But of course we had to meander along the way. This time it was Muley Point, another spot Doug had read about in his in-depth internet reading of places and roads and vehicles. And thank goodness for that, as while we often discover places while meandering, some we would not find without Doug's extensive reading.

Marilyn was thinking Muley Point was just off the road, and began to wonder as we drove on and on down the gravel road...

...which became a red dirt road...

,,,and across numerous cattle guards.

After 5 miles there was a hopeful sign informing us we were entering Glenn Canyon NRA (National Recreation Area). We descended a short way to a rocky mesa.

Fortunately, Doug still had his wits about him and stopped the car well back from the edge, as Marilyn sat stunned at the immensity of what was before us

There truly are no words for the view from Muley Point, which looks out over winding canyons carved by the twisting San Juan River.

Doug at Muley Point.

A number of people were camped there, and we were tempted, but it was cold and windy, and with little protection, the night was bound to be even colder.

Returning from Muley Point to the main road, we pondered another view of the Bears Ears buttes.

View to east departing Muley Point.

And then it was time for the Moki Dugway! Spanish Explorers used the word moqui to describe the Pueblo Indians. A dugway is a road carved out of a hillside.

Satellite view of the Moki Dugway

The Moki Dugway begins on the top of Cedar Mesa. It's on the website of the most Dangerous Roads in North America, but really it just takes a bit of care while driving. Doug had been up it at least three times, twice in the VW bus and once in Mz Agnes (our Ford van), but this was his first time going down. Being a bit scared of heights, he was a bit apprehensive. Marilyn had been up the road once with Doug. This would also be her first time going down.

The Moki Dugway is 3-mile-long narrow gravel road with switchbacks that descends 1,200 feet. When we reached the crest of the top of the road, a couple of cars were pulled off. Perhaps the signs pictured above and below were causing them to have second thoughts?

Once committed, there's no turning back.

Heading into the first switchback.

Reaching the curve shown in the photo above.

Looking over to where we're going...

...and down to the road below us.

Moki Dugway on right and road across the valley below on left.

Passing another car on the narrow road is interesting.

Still going down...

...and down...

...down switchbacks...

...around curves...

...and more curves...

...and approaching another switchback...

...and we're down! Just after we leave the Moki Dugway is the turnoff to the Valley of the Gods. We decided not to go that day and went on to Goosenecks State Park, hoping for a campsite.

We converted one of our videos going down the Moki Dugway and uploaded it, but unfortunately it wouldn't open. Of course, there are lots of videos on You Tube, including this one from 2019.

Heading to Goosenecks State Park, we passed open range signs, which are prevalent throughout the Southwest. Some, like this one, are edged with flashing lights.

This time we were rewarded with actual cows...

...who weren't in a hurry to cross the road.

Looking back to where the Moki Dugway climbs to the top of Cedar Mesa.

Next up: Goosenecks State Park, Monument Valley, Pahreah, and the Fog-Snow-Rain-Hail-Sleet Day.

Southwest 2021-14: Mule Canyon Ruins and Natural Bridges National Monument

Mon, 19 Apr 2021 17:03:00 +0200

March 21-22, 2021

After four amazing days in Moab, we enjoyed a last visit with our friends, for now, then headed south. Our vague destination had been Mexican Hat, with the idea of camping at Goosenecks State Park. The next day, we'd drive up the Moki Dugway, a favorite road of Doug's. However, after going through Monticello and Blanding we saw the sign for Natural Bridges and on an impulse turned west on 95.

Driving 95 reminded us of going across Nevada 50: a succession of basins and ridges. About 15 miles from the turnoff, we climbed over Comb Ridge. It's a 120-mile-long monocline—layers of horizontal rock that all slope downward—running north south. That's a very rough definition. For a more thorough treatment here's a link to the geology of Capitol Reef National Park, including the Water Fold, which is also a monocline.On the west side of "the Comb" is Comb Wash.

This satellite map is especially good for showing Comb Ridge, running north and south, and on its western edge, Comb Wash.

Debating whether to get a sure campsite or risk Natural Bridges, which has only 13 first come-first served sites, we drove through Comb Wash BLM Campground. We investigated several sites, then decided to check out the camping on the other side of the highway before making a final decision. We passed only three sites before coming to a small sign that said if we continued we'd be trespassing on reservation land.
We decided just to go on. Soon we came upon the Mule Canyon Ruins just off the road. We decided just to go on. Soon we came upon the Mule Canyon Ruins just off the road.

Mule Canyon Anasazi ruins: looking from housing block to kiva (under protective roof) and tower.

Anasazi lived in this area from about 750-1150. In the Comb are ruins of cliff dwellings and granaries and many petroglyphs. Excavation at Mule Canyon revealed an L-shaped block of 12 rooms, a pithouse, 2 kivas, a tower, and a trash area.

L-shaped block of rooms.

Kivas were typically used for ceremonies and meetings. The opening in the wall is a tunnel to block of rooms.

It's thought that 2 or 3 families occupied the rooms. A tunnel connected the room block to the kiva, while on the other side of the kiva, another tunnel connected it to the tower.

Kiva and Tower, believed to have been 2 stories tall, beyond. Opening in wall is tunnel to tower. Vertical slab deflected heat from fire built opposite it

In direct line of site from the tower to the southeast are the Cave Towers, so perhaps the towers served for communication. Given the tunnel from the kiva to the tower, another possibility is that the towers use was defense or ceremonial. Tunnels are not common in this area, which, along with pottery shards found at the site, indicates an influence by the Anasazi of Mesa Verde in Colorado.

Arriving at Natural Bridges National Monument

We left the ruins and continued on to Natural Bridges. To our joy we had our choice of sites! We settled into a large site with a view out over the valley. Within three hours, the campground was full.

View from our Natural Bridges campsite.

It was chilly enough for down jackets, but the sun was warm.

Juniper Titmouse, a small cute, but pesky, little guy, in Juniper tree

From a nearby juniper tree, a Juniper Titmouse, was quite brazen. The couple times a morsel dropped from Doug's hand as he read, the bird zoomed from the tree and snatched it up almost before it hit the ground.

Juniper tree, right, and pinyon pine, left

Natural Bridges sits in a juniper and pinyon forest, common at elevations from 4,500 to 7,500 feet that experience temperature extremes and have little water.

Berries on Juniper tree

We had seen junipers loaded with berries earlier in our trip in Joshua Tree National Park, much of which is at 5,500 feet in elevation. When water is scarce, a juniper will actually stop water from going to its major branches.

Pine cones on pinyon pine

Pinyon pines, from which we get piñons, or pine nuts, grow at most to 20 feet tall. A tree that is only 6 inches in diameter and 10 feet tall might be 80 years old.

Uncle Robert, aka Conchita, at a pull out at Natural Bridges National Monument

We left before coffee the next morning to enjoy the views of the major natural bridges. First up was Sipapu Bridge. It's a little hard to spot from a distance.

Arrow points to Sipapu Bridge

Zoomed in to Sipapu Bridge.

Though there may not be water under the bridges now, bridges are formed by moving water eroding rock. By contrast, arches, such as those in Arches National Park, which we'd visited earlier in our trip, often form when water seeps through cracks in rocks and freezes. Water and wind continue to enlarge the cracks until all that's left of the rock is an arch.

The next bridge, Kachina, was a little easier to spot.

It's amazing how water carved its course through the rock.

Here a tunnel goes under the rocks, perhaps making, in a few centuries, a new bridge.

Bears Ears

Leaving Natural Bridges, we saw to the north the two buttes that make up the Bears Ears the national monument is named for. Bears Ears has often been in the news in recent years. Barack Obama designated it a national monument in 2016. In 2017, his successor diminished it by 85%. "What Remains of Bears Ears," an April 2019 article in the Washington Post, is an excellent analysis of the history and issues of Bears Ears, with maps and fabulous pictures and drone footage of cliff dwellings and petroglyphs. Joe Biden is reviewing some of his predecessor's changes to national lands, and his Interior Secretary, Deb Haaland, herself a Native American, toured Bears Ears in April 2021.The Bears Ears Inter-Tribal Coalition has long been working to protect the ancestral lands of numerous Indian tribes.

Next up: Muley Point; Doug's favorite, the Moki Dugway; and camping on the edge of the Goosenecks of the San Juan River.

Southwest 2021-13: Moab, Utah: Dead Horse Point and Grandstaff Trail

Wed, 14 Apr 2021 05:28:00 +0200

March 19-20, 2021

Doug had heard of Dead Horse Point, also near Moab, so off we went. A few miles past the entrance to Arches National Park we turned west on 313 and followed it for 22 miles to Dead Horse Point.

Like Arches National Park, the formations on

nearby 313 were also stunning.

Passing colorfully striped cliffs typical of the area, 313 climbs steeply and goes through several switchbacks the first fewmiles. Then it travels across the top of a mesa.

The Colorado Plateau that encompasses this area was created by centuries of accumulation of sediment—the layers of color seen in the cliffs—brought by wind and water, plus volcanic eruptions and erosion.

Much of the land surrounding Moab is BLM land. In fact, 42% of the state of Utah is managed by the BLM: Bureau of Land Management. Like the campground we stayed in, Grandstaff, along the Colorado River, there are numerous other BLM campgrounds in the Moab area. We drove through one located on top of a mesa with no protection from the wind. We were glad to be down by the river.

La Sal Mountains

Southwest 2021-12: Moab, Utah: Arches National Park

Tue, 13 Apr 2021 02:38:00 +0200

March 17-18, 2021

As soon as we’d claimed a site at Grandstaff Campground, we headed for Arches National Park. Moab was crazy crowded. It’s the pandemic? It’s spring break? It’s Moab?

Driving into Arches National Park. Several switchbacks along towering cliffs leading up the hill to the arches.

We're running out of words to describe all we’ve seen in the past month. They all apply to Moab: Stunning. Gorgeous. Amazing. Beautiful. Awesome. Stupendous. Astounding. Unbelievable.

Looking down at the double line of vehicles at the entry station. Across from the park is a large mining operation.

Granted, Moab is crowded and commercialized, with party boats on the Colorado River, ATVs, crowded parks and trails, plus the mining. Yet as our friend’s daughter said, "The world comes here because it’s Moab. We really can’t try to keep it to ourselves, or want it to not be crowded." Our wish is merely, "May we just not love this amazing area to death."

We'll let the pictures do most of the talking, though they don’t do the area justice.

Gigantic hole in gigantic wall. Or is it a cow's skull?

Queen Nefertiti.

Southwest 2021-11: Over the Colorado Rockies to Moab, Utah

Sun, 11 Apr 2021 01:55:00 +0200

March 16-17, 2021
After two days snowed in in our AirBnB in Longmont CO, we were able to depart. We were sad we weren't able to visit again with Marilyn's niece and her family due to side roads still being icy, but at least we'd had one great day with them. We needed to get going and get over the Rockies ahead of the next storm.

Van dug out of the snow by Doug but sitting on ice

Doug had the van warmed up, but was a bit apprehensive about all of the ice beneath the tires, not to mention our white top.

It would take us at least 4.5 hours to get to Grand Junction, our destination for the night.

Southwest 2021-10: Snowed in in Colorado

Sat, 10 Apr 2021 00:11:00 +0200

March 11-16, 2021

What awaited us in Colorado...

...and warmer days behind us.

Southwest 9: New Mexico: Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument - Gran Quivira

Wed, 07 Apr 2021 17:09:00 +0200

March 10, 2021

Marilyn, Gran Quivira Pueblo ruins, New Mexico.

Leaving Carrizozo NM, we knew we needed to get to Fort Collins ahead of the predicted "epic" snowstorm, but we couldn't resist stopping at Gran Quivira Pueblo.

On a previous trip, we'd stumbled on the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument near Mountainair NM, and visited all three pueblos: Abo, Quarai, Gran Quivira. Mapping out our journey, we realized we needed to re-visit at least one, as their history is amazing.

Our favorite animal sign.

Southwest 2021-8: New Mexico: Silver City, Valley of Fires, Carrizozo

Tue, 06 Apr 2021 00:03:00 +0200

March 7-10, 2021

We never tired of looking at the colors and ridge lines of Arizona's mountains that range from the cool shapes of their peaks...

...to ridged buttes.