This is Rinchen’s story.
It is the end of September 2025, and we have just completed a 60 km hike into the Kiyar Naala, deep within Kishtawar National Park. Walking between 7–10 hours a day, navigating trails washed out by recent floods, and camping in makeshift huts left behind by the Bakharwaals (pastoralists), we gained 1,500 metres in altitude. Al...