Iconic Africa

There’s a particular kind of satisfaction that comes from knowing about a place most people don’t. Mwiba Lodge, tucked into a private wildlife reserve on the southern border of the Serengeti, is that place. Ten tented suites, 130,000 acres, and no other camps anywhere near it. If exclusivity is something safari operators throw around loosely, Mwiba earns the word.

There’s a version of Africa that most safari-goers never see. Not because it’s hard to reach — it’s a straightforward charter flight from Maun — but because it looks nothing like what they came for. No lush delta, no big trees, no thick bush. Just white. A vast, shimmering, ancient white that stretches to the horizon in every direction and makes you feel simultaneously very ...

Rwanda surprises people. They arrive expecting something — usually a vague sense of the continent’s familiar safari rhythms — and find instead a country that is green, cool, mountainous, and unlike anywhere else they’ve been. Kigali is spotless and orderly. The roads work. And in the northwest, rising out of mist-draped forest on the edge of Volcanoes National Park, Singita ...

Most people who go on safari in Kenya go to the Mara. And the Mara deserves its reputation — the migration, the lions, the sheer volume of wildlife on those open plains. But there’s a version of Kenya that sits north of all that, quieter and considerably less visited, where the landscape shifts into something altogether different. Rocky outcrops, granite kopjes, dry sweeping...

In the late 1990s, the land that is now Kwandwe was nine farms — ostrich, goat, a patchwork of fencing that had carved the Great Fish River valley into smaller and smaller parcels of agricultural use. It had been farmed for generations. By most practical measures, it had stopped being wild a long time before anyone thought to wonder whether it might become wild again. There ...