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Marble is Greece’s most enduring material. It outlasted empires, and to this day it is still being cut from the same mountains.
Late in the afternoon, when the sun drops low over Attica, the walls of the Dionyssos quarry on Mount Penteli warm up. The white turns to honey, then to gold; it really is a beautiful sight.
The ancient Greeks had a wor...
You hear them before you see them.
On a weekend in the run-up to Lent, somewhere below the castle in Skyros Chora, a low clanging rolls up the hill through the tangle of whitewashed alleys: heavy, uneven, unmistakably rhythmic. It grows. Then a figure turns the corner in a shaggy black cape, his face hidden behind a hanging goatskin, a great belt of bells slun...
Most travelers today pass through Piraeus briefly, on their way to the islands. Yet Piraeus deserves more than a stopover, and its history does, too. In fact, it is one of the oldest working ports on earth, a city that has absorbed empires, refugees, revolutions and container ships without ever losing its footing. And it rewards anyone willing to linger at least for ...