Robert Mondavi was brilliant at creating prestigious joint ventures, such as Opus One in Napa, and Seňa with Eduardo Chadwick in Chile. But less well known was Luce in Tuscany.

Srcoll down to see tasting notes and scores for a vertical of Luce from 2000-2020

In the 1970s, Mondavi had toured Italy with his son Tim with a view to creating an Italian brand, but it wasn’t until 1995 that his plans came to fruition and he formally collaborated with the Frescobaldi family to found Tenuta Luce. The Frescobaldis had bought the Castelgiocondo estate in Montalcino in 1989, and the Luce vineyards were in the same location.

Luce through the years: 2020-2000

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Silicon Valley Bank’s (SVB) wine division, now part of First Citizens Bank, recently highlighted winery tasting room trends in its direct-to-consumer report.

A ‘standard’ winery tasting in Napa County averaged $81, compared to $38 in Sonoma County and $32 in Oregon, it found, based on 332 winery responses. 

It also said the average retail price at Napa County wineries rose above $100-a-bottle in 2022, to $107.79. Plus, more US wineries were offering by-appointment tastings, and winery club memberships have continued rising.

What next for tasting room fees?

Whilst tasting prices vary widely, and some Napa wineries offer options well below the average cited above, the report said the US industry ‘has been on a long period of driving tasting fees higher, while adding extravagant experiences’. 

Tasting room purchases in several key regions, including Napa, Sonoma and Oregon, have risen strongly in US dollar terms in the past decade, which is ‘a clear mark of success’, the report said.

It questioned whether fees would continue rising, however, adding, ‘A few wineries have stopped charging fees altogether, which may signal the end of the tasting fee arms race.’

Rob McMillan, founder of SVB’s wine division, told Decanter, ‘Back in the 1960s, wineries did not charge for tastings. Wineries were production facilities with walk-in sampling bars, not a point of sale.’ 

He said things changed when direct cellar door sales became more important to wineries. Higher bottle prices, reflecting investment in vineyards and winemaking, also contributed to higher tasting fees from the 1990s onwards, he said. 

‘Over the past 15 years, the purpose of the tasting room evolved from “selling what is in the bottle” to selling an experience,’ he added. ‘Today you are buying both the wine and enjoying yourself while sampling.’ 

Looking ahead, slowing wine industry growth in the US may herald new strategies, he believes.

‘We are about to see the purpose of tasting fees evolve once again. In the next five years some wineries might reduce or even not charge a fee. Others could improve their experience and hold or increase fees.’ 

He suggested wineries could use a ‘surge pricing model’, where reservations cost more at peak times ‘and less in slower periods’.  

Rise in by-appointment tastings

One key trend of the report was the apparent increase in by-appointment tastings at wineries.

Only 27% of US wineries surveyed offered purely walk-in tastings in 2022, compared to 56% in a similar survey in 2019, it said.

Around 29% of respondents offered only pre-booked tastings last year, and 43% did a combination of the two.

Visits to wine country in California and Oregon dropped in 2022, said the SVB survey, but it said this was likely a short-term ‘echo’ from the Covid era. ‘In 2024, we’re betting tasting room traffic returns.’

Around 25% of respondents were based in Napa County, with nearly 16% in Oregon and just over 15% in Sonoma County.

Almost half of the total respondents produced fewer than 5,000 cases per year, said SVB’s wine division report, which is now part of First Citizens Bank following the collapse of SVB earlier this year.

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Terroir is often a term used in reference to wine. When a certain grape is grown close to the sea or in mineral-rich soils for example, imbibers are able to taste a hint of salinity or flint in the resulting wine.

In the same way terroir can also be used to describe certain gins. Distillers can source native, wild-grown botanicals to capture the essence of a certain part of the world in their spirits.

Although this has previously been more popular in the UK, now US producers are catching on. using niche ingredients from coast to coast, north to south, to craft gins that are completely distinct to their environment.

In Rhode Island, Rhodium Forager’s Gin uses red clover, sumac, autumn berries and aronia. In California, St George Spirits Terroir Gin relies on Douglas fir, coastal sage, wild fennel and California bay laurel. More broadly reflective of the US is the just-launched Four Corners Gin, made by sourcing indigenous ingredients from across the country. Think wild juniper from Oregon, yerba santa from the Mojave desert, cranberry from Maine and wild cherry bark from Florida.

Four Corners American Gin

Going local

‘These locally picked botanicals give terroir gins a unique and distinctive flavour profile, setting them apart from mass produced, traditional gins,’ says Donal O’Gallachoir, co-founder of Four Corners Gin.

O’Gallachoir adds that until recently, most gins in America were made from overseas botanicals, either in part or entirely, but now consumer tastes are more discerning. ‘Gin enthusiasts increasingly love a compelling story that connects the gin to where it’s from. They really appreciate and enjoy the narrative behind the gin, being transported to a place with every sip.’

In general, contemporary consumers are increasingly curious about provenance – tracing a product back to its origins as a confirmation of its authenticity and quality. When it comes to terroir gin, this is especially relevant as the ingredients used in the spirit are often growing together.

Botanical tapestry

‘All of the botanicals work together,’ says Chris Garden, head of operations at Hepple Gin. The Hepple distillery is based within the eastern edge of England’s Northumberland National Park. Garden points out how the stream that feeds the estate’s green juniper plants also feeds the bog myrtle and Douglas fir used in the gin.

Green juniper berries used in Hepple Gin Credit: Julie Sheppard

‘The influence of climate and geography have an integral role in the flavour of these ingredients,’ adds Adam Hannett, head distiller for The Botanist. Launched in 2011, this Scottish gin brand was a pioneer in terroir gin. ‘We wanted to capture the essence of what it feels like to be on Islay,’ says Hannett. The 22 hand-foraged botanicals include three different types of mint, flowers such as purple heather and earthy botanicals like wild thyme. All are sourced from the hills, meadows and moors of Islay, the southernmost Hebrides island, located off Scotland’s west coast.

Terroir gins tend to feature a handful of key ingredients, some of which you can taste more than others. Geraldine Kavanagh is a forager at Glendalough Distillery in Ireland, which produces Wild Botanical Gin. She notes that even botanicals used in lesser quantities are just as significant to the final liquid.

‘They affect the way the gin tastes and feels in your mouth, in the same way as herbs, salt and pepper are small but hugely important additions to a recipe when you are cooking at home,’ she explains. The 30 fresh, foraged botanicals used to make Wild Botanical Gin, include yarrow and sweet woodruff. Both are used in small quantities, but Kavanagh says the gin wouldn’t be as balanced without them.

Seasonal style

In addition to relaying a specific sense of place, gins produced from wild-grown botanicals reflect profound seasonality and freshness. Lantic Gin’s founder Alex Palmer-Samborne (below) picks botanicals and distils them within 24 hours. ‘Similar to cooking,’ he says, ‘you get a lot more of the true flavour from fresh produce.’

Lantic’s gin portfolio aims to capture the different seasons. Lantic Summer Foraged Gin and Morva are inspired by summer meadows, sourcing from wide-open spaces in bloom, using the likes of elderflower, wild strawberries, red clover, and honeysuckle. Lantic Winter Foraged Gin is designed for the colder and darker months, tapping into autumnal fruits and berries that are distilled and aged in an oak cask for warming notes.

Alex Palmer-Samborne of Lantic Gin

‘Using plants that grow locally and distilling them daily allows us to capture the changing flavours of an entire year,’ agrees Glendalough’s Kavanagh. ‘I like that you have to wait and that there is a sense of excitement with the coming of each botanical. We have lost this in the modern world where everything is available all year round, but things don’t necessarily taste as good.’

Kavanagh explains that during August in the Wicklow Mountains, she’s smelling herbal and honey notes in the air from heather in bloom. In April, it’s pine and tropical coconut notes from the new shoots of the pine trees and gorse in bloom. ‘In order to capture that terroir in a bottle, the botanicals have to be of excellent quality. The flowers have to be picked on a dry day when they have pollen; the leaves need to be fresh and green and at their prime in terms of flavour; fruit has to be perfectly ripe.’

Freshness is also a result of limited production and using small batch stills. ‘It is the attention to detail in the production process that makes these gins so good,’ shares O’Gallachoir. ‘Each [ingredient] needs to be treated differently and macerated slowly to tease out their unique flavours,’ he says. At Four Corners, the team uses a 1,500-litre pot still with a shallow swan’s neck to deliver low reflux, which results in capture of more congeners and oils for a rich and textural profile.

Environmental benefits

It’s also interesting to consider the environmental role of foraged botanicals. In some instances their use is helping to scale down issues they might previously have contributed to their natural habitats. In Providence, Cathy Plourde, co-owner of Rhode Island Spirits, who distils Rhodium Forager’s Gin, sources botanicals in great quantities that are considered invasive species such as autumn berry, weeds like clover or sumac, or even a nuisance, like black walnuts.

Red clover, considered a weed, is a botanical in Rhodium Forager’s Gin

Lance Winters, Master Distiller for St George’s Terroir Gin gathers Douglas fir from a ranch near Ukiah in California, which is home to a forest of old-growth redwoods. According to Winters, clearing out the Douglas fir helps to reduce fuel load for forest fires.

As the popularity of terroir products continues to trend, it’s opening a new world of how gin can and should taste. ‘The myth that all gin tastes like a Christmas tree is eroding, as people realise that craft gin strives to bring unique flavours that use specific, local ingredients,’ says Plourde.

Designed to be tasted neat so that you can appreciate the nuances in terroir, the following eight terroir-drive gins add a unique layer of complexity to classic cocktails.

Eight terroir gins to try

Four Corners American Gin

Crafted exclusively with all American botanicals, the nose is balanced with hints of floral and slight juniper. The palate is clean and smooth with notable wood spices, tropical citrus and a hint of vanilla bean. A Gin & Tonic garnished with grapefruit accentuates the floral and citrus notes. Alcohol 41%

Glendalough Wild Botanical Gin

Juniper and pine blend with elderflower and wet earth for a silky and harmonious palate. Glendalough works with a local forager who cuts every ingredient according to freshness, informed by smell and taste. A delightful addition to a White Negroni. Alc 41%

Hepple Gin

Hepple Spirits recommends serving its bold gin with a splash of tonic and wedge of lemon – it’s obvious why. Their garnish of choice coerces the bright citrus in harmony with the green juniper, savoury bog myrtle and elegant peppered finish. Alc 45%

Lantic Summer Gin

Savour the fleeting season along the Cornish coastline year round with this fresh and floral gin that infuses 21 botanicals, including elderflower, honeysuckle and Malwina strawberry. Mint and honey aromas tantalise, opening to citrus and clover upon first sip. Marry the season’s bright flavours in a crisp Tom Collins. Alc 41.5%

Procera Blue Dot Gin

Seventy kilometres from Procera’s Nairobi distillery grows the eponymous African juniper that Procera was the first to use in a gin. This combined with indigenous ingredients from throughout Africa – Moroccan orris root, Swahili lime – presents a bright palate meshed with savoury qualities of dried earth and an expertly smooth finish. There’s no better way to enjoy it than an ice cold Martini. Alc 44%

Rhodium Forager’s Gin

Cathy Plourde and her partner Kara Larson combined their love of foraging and passion for home brewing, respectively, to create a gin unique to Rhode Island. The nose offers dried mint and wormwood that’s furthered on the palate with wet earth, slight anise and a minty finish. Try it neat as a digestif. Alc 42%

St George Spirits Terroir Gin

Meant to evoke ‘a walk in the forest’, fresh pine consumes the aromas but isn’t overwhelming on the palate. The finish is herbal with lingering sage notes. Enjoy in a classic Martini swapping a lemon twist for two drops of orange bitters. Alc 45% 

The Botanist Gin

As an early adopter of terroir-driven gin, The Botanist still sets the bar high with 22 of 31 botanicals sourced from the distillery’s native Islay. The aromas are more classic, yet clean, with juniper, citrus and eucalyptus notes punctuated by black pepper spice. The palate is smooth and juniper-forward, making for an excellent Dry Martini. Alc 46%

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2023 harvest: ‘The motivated endure’

The 2023 Ukrainian wine harvest reflects winemakers’ resolve. Amid the ongoing conflict, vintners display remarkable resilience; diligently tending vineyards, producing wines and exporting their products worldwide. Despite unique challenges, winemakers remain optimistic.

Credit: Wines of Ukraine

According to the Wines of Ukraine website: ‘Six wine regions have been officially approved in Ukraine. This is an outdated norm in our legislation, which has been in effect since Soviet times and does not correspond to today’s realities. The Association of Craft Winemakers of Ukraine [aka Wines of Ukraine] is actively working to expand the winemaking area to most of Ukraine. A large number of new wineries that have appeared in the last 5 years are located in cool climates.’

Svitlana Tsybak, CEO of Beykush Winery, reflected on a challenging 18 months, ‘Beykush is a family-owned winery that spans just 13 hectares, it’s located two kilometres from the occupied area. When full-scale war erupted last year, we faced uncertainty about our winemaking prospects. In July, we decided to bottle wines initially prepared before the war’s outbreak. We also dedicated ourselves to caring for the vineyards. Last September yielded high-quality grapes due to dry, hot weather, with no issues in the vineyard. This year could be a mixed bag – I hear reports of unfavourable weather conditions from Zakarpattia (near the Hungarian border). However, due to last year’s success, we expect to increase our production by 20% this year, thanks to two additional hectares maturing, despite the rockets above us.’

Tania Olevska, owner of Friends Wine Travel, added, ‘Winemakers had no alternative but to continue nurturing vineyards and pursuing their craft. Emotionally, it’s crucial to stay engaged during wartime; otherwise, despair takes hold. Thus, despite the conflict, we enjoyed a bountiful harvest last year. This year is looking promising too.’

Kolonist Winery, founded by the Plachkov family in Bessarabia, exemplifies resilience and growth. Initially producing 30,000 bottles annually, it has expanded to 350,000 bottles, with 63ha of vineyards. The portfolio features classic aged whites and reds, semi-dry, sweet and sparkling styles. Its specialities, Odesa black and Sukholymanske white, highlight Ukraine’s indigenous array. Even during the conflict’s early stages, when alcohol sales faced restrictions and night-time lights were banned, the winery persisted. It opened its doors to families from occupied regions and provided humanitarian aid. Hryhoriy Plachkov, co-owner of the winery, presently serves as a military officer.

Former tennis star Sergiy Stakhovsky, who now fights on the frontline against Russian, is the owner of Stakhovsky Wines in the Zakarpattia region. He spoke with decanter.com as he landed back in Kyiv safely, reflecting on the last two vintages, ‘We have 22.5 hectares of vines, producing 10,000 cases yearly. The 2022 vintage was very powerful and charismatic, but missile attacks left us without power for 2 weeks. The 2023 harvest faced weather instability, in our region, but we won’t fully know the results as we are just preparing for harvest starting the last week of September. Overall, the Russian invasion devastated wineries, making it difficult for the wineries to survive, but motivated vine growers and winemakers endure.’

Kolonist Winery. Credit: Kolonist Winery

Status quo: An overview of Ukrainian winemaking

The success stories highlighted above should not mask the devastating effect the conflict has had on some regional wine production. Many occupied regions have suffered significant impacts, leading to the loss of wineries in Kherson and other areas, producers said.

Tsybak, who is also founder of Wines of Ukraine, a pivotal organisation championing domestic producers born out of the collaborative spirit when the conflict started, anticipated it would take at least a decade to revive some regions’ wine production. Overall, Ukraine has retained around 100 wineries (down from 180 before the war started), with the majority remaining operational.

Wineries in heavily affected regions have been compelled to seek grapes elsewhere, effectively resetting their terroir. ‘The flexibility to procure grapes has enabled wineries to maintain wine production,’ said Tsybak and Olevska agreed.

One other challenge confronting Ukrainian winemakers was the complexity of legislation and bureaucracy. Over the last two decades, Ukraine’s wine industry has undergone a remarkable resurgence. Between 2016 and 2018 substantial legislative improvements were made to support small wine producers.

Tsybak highlighted the progress made: ‘Since 2018, we have been working on simplifying legislation, such as removing the need for an excise stamp on bottles.’

In 2021, a significant milestone was achieved with the removal of the still wine excise mark. More recently, law 9030 introduced key provisions such as streamlined licensing, the removal of administrative penalties, simplified reporting, support for winemakers and a provision for minor producers to purchase grapes for a much-reduced licence fee.

According to Stakhovsky, ‘The Ukrainian wine industry was looking on the uprise since 2016 when a new law was signed by the President giving small “craft” winemakers the right to produce wine from own-grown vines without paying roughly £16,000 on license fees.’

These legislative amendments have fostered the growth of boutique wineries in the country, he explained.

Paving the path forward

Svitlana Tsybak. Credit: Wines of Ukraine

The worldwide wine community has rallied in support of Ukrainian winemakers since the outbreak of the war.

‘Recent years have seen many nations reassess their views on Ukraine. They now understand Ukraine’s true essence. Importers have expressed their desire to import our wines, resulting in repeat orders. Ukrainian wines have found new markets, and international markets have discovered Ukrainian wine. For instance, our Romanian partners started with a single pallet just wanting to help out, and Romania is now one of our primary export markets, with monthly orders of 5-6 pallets,’ Tsybak said.

She added that Ukraine’s wine industry is working tirelessly to expand its reach and enhance its presence on the global stage, introducing the Ukrainian terroir to global audiences.

While Ukrainian winemakers navigate the challenges of conflict, they are simultaneously preparing for a promising future. Despite uncertainties, 2024 plans are infused with optimism.

Kostiantyn Tintulov, commercial director of TM Villa Tinta, shared his vision, ‘In 2024, we plan to increase exports and domestic sales, explore new markets, launch new wines, and contribute to our country’s restoration.’

Credit: Wines of Ukraine

Vladimir Palariev, co-owner and winemaker at Frumushika-Nova was also optimistic when speaking to decanter.com, ‘In 2024, we plan to introduce a unique line of wines featuring indigenous grape varieties. We hope for robust sales in the UK and EU.’

The resilience and creativity exhibited by Ukrainian winemakers during these challenging times point to a bright future for the nation’s wine industry. Wines of Ukraine will present 13 wineries to UK trade on the 9th of October at 67 Pall Mall in London and plans to participate in Prowein and the London Wine Fair, building on its successes from the previous year’s participation in these prominent international fairs.

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The auction house described it as ‘the largest, most important and by far the most valuable wine collection ever to come to the market’.

It features a huge array of fine and rare wines, including two six-litre Methuselahs of Domaine de la Romaneé-Conti La Tâche 1985, which have an estimated price of up to $190,000 (£156,000) apiece.

There will be around 25,000 wines in total, which Chen accumulated over a 40-year period, forming ‘the most broad-ranging, valuable cellar ever’.

Further highlights include six magnums of Henri Jayer Vosne Romanée Cros Parantoux 1er Cru 2001. It was the last wine that Henri Jayer, dubbed the ‘godfather of Burgundy’, made before retiring. Each magnum has an estimated price of $50,000 to $70,000 (£41,000 to £58,000).

The auction will also feature a six-litre Imperial of Petrus 1982, along with a magnum of Château Latour 1961 and three magnums of Salon Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 1971.

The first wines from the collection will go under the hammer in Hong Kong in November. The sale will run until autumn 2024, taking in further auctions in Beaune and New York.

‘This is the ultimate wine collection, which comes to the market at a time when global interest in fine wine has arguably never been greater,’ said Nick Pegna, global head of wine and spirits at Sotheby’s.

‘This is a cellar in which every bottle has a story, and in which every wine is the best you could wish to own and enjoy.’

Chen is the founder and chairman of Yageo Corporation, which produces electronic components for mobile phones, computers and cars.

He was ranked 446th in the 2023 Forbes Billionaires list, with an estimated fortune of $5.5bn (£4.52bn).

Chen was born and raised in Kaohsiung, the largest city in southern Taiwan. He graduated from National Cheng Kung University in Taiwan and founded Yageo in 1977.

He is a renowned art collector, and he regularly loans famous works to institutional shows around the world. Most recently, he loaned pieces including David Hockney’s Portrait of an Artist (Pool with Two Figures), Picasso’s Buste de Femme and Francis Bacon’s Study for a Pope VI to the Tate Modern.

Chen is known to love art, music, food and wine in equal measure, and he attains a synesthetic pleasure from combining them.

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In Northeastern Italy, lies the town of Verona, made famous by Shakepeare’s star-crossed lovers. Just north of the fair city, is one of Italy’s most loved wine regions, Valpolicella DOC. Amongst the gentle slopes of the verdant Valpolicella Classico region, the beautiful Villa Santa Sofia was built in 1560 – mere decades before Shakespeare wrote his bittersweet tale. Designed by the famous Italian Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio, the villa is a precious cultural and architectural icon, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

Originally founded as a winery in 1811, the villa, as well as its ancient cellars and vineyards, were bought by oenologist Giancarlo Begnoni in 1964. Along with his son, Luciano Begnoni, they see themselves as privileged custodians of Santa Sofia. The family have worked to maintain the estate’s tradition of making approachable and elegant wines that represent the ancient Valpolicella terroir upon which the winery was built. Under their stewardship, Santa Sofia has gained a reputation which has seen it grow from a small, high-quality estate to one of the most significant realities in the Veronese winemaking world.

Employing a ‘strategy of excellence’, as Giancarlo likes to call it, the grapes are carefully selected from the most suited and best exposed hillsides in the surrounding area, and aged in cellars in use since the 14th century, as well as newer ones. Despite the winery’s history playing such an important role in the company’s identity, the Begnoni family’s ambition extends beyond preserving tradition, to driving a future that is based on technical acumen and sustainable practices that respect its precious vineyards.

Santa Sofia now sells its wines in over 75 countries around the world and the Begnoni family have recently added new vineyards in Briago, Valpantena in Eastern Valpolicella and in the town of Pozzolengo, in the Lugana DOC, exploiting new regions for exciting new wines.

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Historically, Bordeaux’s network of merchants and brokers, known as ‘La Place’, was a closed enterprise dedicated to the buying and selling of claret. Yet things have come a long way since the days of Bordeaux-only vision; the finest Australian wines are now being promoted in the world’s oldest (and most developed) distribution network, as consumers embrace diversity and worldwide excellence.

In September, Australia’s oldest family-owned producer, Yalumba, joined this exclusive club of A-list wineries. Their debut on La Place could not be more appropriate: The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz is a seminal wine, made from some of Australia’s oldest Shiraz vines, including a parcel that was first planted in 1854 – a year before the legendary 1855 classification of Médoc and Graves. Moreover, The Octavius is the first Barossa wine to be sold as part of La Place’s ‘Beyond Bordeaux’  September campaign.

Exceptional terroir

Like all great wines, The Octavius owes its brilliance to exceptional terroir. The 2018 vintage being sold on La Place is composed of both Eden and Barossa Valley fruit (69 and 31% respectively),  with an average vine age of 111 years. According to Kevin Glastonbury, winemaker at Yalumba, ‘Eden Valley Shiraz provides the exotic aromatics, high tone and seamless palate structure, whilst Barossa Valley Shiraz provides richness, density, and concentration.’ The oldest plots managed to survive phylloxera due to sheer chance; this destructive parasite never found its way to the soils of South Australia. As a result, Barossa can lay claim to the most extensive acreage of 19th- and early 20th-century vines in the world.

Robert and Jessica Hill-Smith

Pioneering excellence

Yalumba first introduced this exquisite red to collectors and oenophiles in 1990. As one of Australia’s major innovators, early vintages of The Octavius were aged in Yalumba-coopered oak octaves; however, the wines are now matured in a mixture of new and seasoned oak barrels of various types to promote the transparency of vineyard sites and the singular expression of Barossa’s old vines. ‘The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz represents the very best of what our region has to offer, and we are excited to share it with a wider international audience of wine lovers and collectors around the world. We start our forthcoming September campaign with the glorious 2018 vintage, a wine that fully expresses the generosity and purity of the Barossa’s ancient terroirs,’ said owner Robert Hill-Smith.

The Octavius is a wine designed for our progressive age: hand-crafted from sustainably managed vineyards on ancient soils. It belongs to the world.

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Long considered one of Argentina’s leading wineries, Achaval Ferrer has now consolidated their place and reputation in the exclusive global fine wine market. To understand how they have achieved this privileged status, one only needs to take into account the excellence displayed by each of the winery’s Malbecs since 1999, especially their Fincas trilogy; wines made solely with grapes from old Malbec vines located in Mendoza’s most prestigious terroirs.

This consistency made Achaval Ferrer one of the first Argentine wineries to attract the interest of collectors after receiving a string of excellent scores from critics and a slew of other honours. Soon, the Achaval Ferrer Fincas trilogy was in unprecedented demand for a New World release: every new vintage set a new record for orders and the 2019 version, released on the third of April this year, was no exception. Because of the low yields produced by old vines, bottles of Achaval Ferrer Fincas are scarce and have become eagerly sought after treasures on the global fine wine market, with the winery now ranking second on the Ultra-Premium Brands from Argentina report published by the IWSR – Drinks Market Analysis in 2023. This latest honour offers even further reason to consider Achaval Ferrer’s wines an essential part of the collections of the most demanding connoisseurs.

Achaval Ferrer’s winery, Mendoza

A collection of 3 unique Malbecs

Since 1999, Achaval Ferrer has enjoyed the responsibility not only of consistently producing world class wines from Mendoza but also of protecting a unique viticultural heritage: three uncrafted Malbec vineyards located in a trio of extraordinary terroirs: Perdriel (planted in 1910), Medrano (1921) and Altamira (1950). Handled with as little intervention as possible, the grapes from these old vines embody a working philosophy that expresses the utmost respect for the culture, heritage, terroir and natural environment of Mendoza.

This year, the famous Achaval Ferrer trilogy consists of Achaval Ferrer Finca Mirador Malbec 2019 from Medrano (Junín), Achaval Ferrer Finca Bella Vista Malbec 2019 from Perdriel (Luján de Cuyo) and Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec 2019 from Altamira (Valle de Uco). As is true of every vintage, the low yielding vineyards only allow for the production of a limited number of bottles of each, which explains the eagerness of the market. The 2019 vintage only produced 6710 bottles of Finca Bella Vista, 4220 bottles of Finca Mirador and 9468 bottles of Finca Altamira.

This means that each, in addition to providing an opportunity to enjoy a world class Malbec, is also a precious viticultural asset, the fruit of some of the oldest Malbec vines in the world. This pedigree, thanks to the precise oenological skill of Gustavo Rearte, Chief Winemaker at Achaval Ferrer, results in a unique expression of Argentine Malbec with an ageing potential of more than 20 years, as has been proven during tastings of different vintages at the winery library. There’s no better way to understand why people find Achaval Ferrer wines so exciting than to open a bottle and allow yourself to be carried away by its excellence and refinement.

Gustavo Rearte, Chief Winemaker at Achaval Ferrer

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English vineyard Cobble Hill, near to the north Norfolk coast, has been listed for sale by estate agency Knight Frank, which said it is seeking offers in excess of £1.3m ($1.58m). 

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Bacchus grape varieties are planted at the 3.6-hectare (ha) vineyard (nine acres), which has chalky soils reminiscent of France’s Champagne region, according to Knight Frank. 

A key part of the deal is an additional 19.4 hectares (48 acres) of land that is considered suitable for vineyards, potentially offering scope for a buyer to significantly expand the estate.

It’s been a boom period for UK wine. Alongside a string of international awards for sparkling and still wines, vineyard plantings have increased 74% in five years, according to WineGB. 

Norfolk wines have won awards, but the region has largely flown under-the-radar as a vineyard setting so far, WineGB data showed.

James Osborn, partner in Knight Frank’s viticulture team, said things are changing. ‘Kent and Sussex have long been the most popular regions for growing vines in the UK. However, the East Anglia coast is fast becoming an established English wine region,’ he said. 

‘Cobble Hill is a rare and exciting opportunity for a new entrant or established wine grower to own a special part of the UK wine sector.’

Robert Perowne, the driving force behind Cobble Hill Vineyard, first planted vines there in 2016 and is now producing around 20,000 bottles per year alongside winemaker Chris Hatto.

UK vineyards see £480m investment

Around £480m has been invested in UK vineyards and wineries in the past five years, significantly above capital investment levels in the preceding five-year period, according to Strutt & Parker, an estate agency and property consultancy.

The best UK vineyards, such as those planted on ideal sites and with a strong track record of producing high quality grapes, can sell for more than £35,000 per planted acre (0.4ha), said Strutt & Parker’s summer 2023 viticulture report. 

It also reported growing buyer interest in parts of East Anglia, among other areas.

‘Over recent months we have noticed buyers are increasingly looking to Norfolk, Suffolk and Essex, which share many of the same characteristics as East and West Sussex, Kent, Surrey and Hampshire, but where there is perhaps more untapped potential for planting vines,’ the report said.

International wine producers are continuing to take notice. US-based Jackson Family Wines announced a major project to produce English sparkling wines earlier this year.

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The fire started at the Lomo Redondo viewpoint at 1,225m in altitude, within the municipality of Arafo. During the investigation, authorities have found not only the origin but also suspect it was started intentionally as an act of arson.

While now controlled, the fire continues to burn over a month after it began.

To date, over 15,000ha of forest have burned across the Mount Teide peak of the island. The intensity and size of the fire was fuelled by strong winds, heat, and very low humidity. It has already been registered as the worst fire in the Canary Islands in the last 40 years and the worst in all of Spain for 2023.

While there have been no human fatalities, the damage to the wilderness and ecosystem at this altitude has been incalculable as this is a unique zone that, due to its altitude, allows specific vegetation and animal life that isn’t possible in the lower, tropical zones of Tenerife. These altitudes are also where a great many vineyards are cultivated.

Unlike the 2021 fires on the island of La Palma due to a volcanic eruption and which viticulturists are still working to recover from, this is a rather remote region in Tenerife that didn’t immediately threaten built-up areas, although more than 26,000 residents were told to evacuate as a precaution.

Those with vineyards in the area could do little more than watch at firefighters battled the blaze. Worry grew a great deal once the fire jumped the Cordillera Dorsal, a 25km ridge that bifurcates Tenerife and therefore allowed the fire to spread to the northern side of the island.

With five Denominations of Origin (DOs), Tenerife has the most on it within the Canary Islands and there are two that cover the region of the fire: Tacoronte-Acentejo and Valle de Güímar.

Administrators at Tacoronte-Acentejo told Decanter they’d thankfully been spared any damage from the fire as it had largely been contained to the far upper reaches of the Teide peak where no one has any vineyards.

For Valle de Güímar, it’s a somewhat different story. DO secretary, Oscar Rodríguez García, initially told Decanter that they had been waiting to get access to the affected areas.

Ultimately, they found that 2ha of vines had been burned. The owner is a viticulturist who sells the grapes to one of the larger producers on the island. Many other vineyard owners had extremely close calls given that the flames came within 50m of their vines. The vineyards were spared given that they have been found to be natural firebreaks.

While the level of loss given the scope and intensity of the fire may seem low, smoke from the fire drifted eastward, covering a great deal of the Valle de Güimar territory and when asked about possible smoke taint issues by Decanter, Rodríguez García confirmed that 64ha could potentially be affected and that they were carrying out analyses to understand the scope of the issues. Wineries in the neighbouring DO Valle de la Orotava have also commented that they are potentially concerned about the smoke and ash drift.

As has been seen around the world in recent years, smoke taint, more than the fires themselves, is often one of the long-lasting issues brought about by climate change-provoked wildfires.

In addition to the issues of burned vineyards and smoke taint, the fire, in combination with the extreme climactic conditions of 2023 in Spain, has advanced the harvest on Tenerife. Normally, it begins at the end of August or beginning of September, but this year saw harvest start at the end of July, which was accelerated considerably once the fire broke out in mid-August.

While the fire on Tenerife will undoubtedly be fully extinguished in the near future, it, along with countless other fires across the globe this year, such as those in Greece and Italy, is testament to a quickly-changing world.

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The post Tenerife hit by worst fire in the Canary Islands in 40 years appeared first on Decanter.

Château Haut-Brion stands apart from its peers in many ways. Some of these differences are historical: it is the only first growth of 1855 that is not located on the Médoc peninsula. Although the area around the city of Bordeaux was the birthplace of winemaking in the region, by the time of the 1855 classification, Haut-Brion was the only château here deemed worthy of the honour.

It is also the oldest of Bordeaux first growths. It is a venerable property indeed – it is thought that vines were cultivated in Roman times, although the first recorded mention of the estate under its present name (as Aubrion or Haulbrion) was in 1521.

Scroll down to see Charles Curtis MW’s notes and scores for 12 vintages of Château Haut-Brion

See Charles Curtis MW’s notes and scores for 12 vintages of Château Haut-Brion

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The whisky is believed to have been distilled in 1833 and bottled in 1841, so experts believe it to be the oldest Scotch in existence.

They delved into the castle’s archives and used carbon dating technology at the Scottish Universities Environmental Research Centre to determine that the whisky dates back to the 1830s.

A young Queen Victoria is thought to have enjoyed it when she visited Blair Castle with Prince Albert in 1844.

She was a big fan of a drink called Atholl Brose, which featured Scotch whisky and honey, and records show that she consumed it during her stay.

Castle trustee Bertie Troughton was rooting around in the cellar last year when the hidden door caught his eye. He discovered around 40 bottles of the rare whisky, which is thought to have been rebottled in 1932.

Blair Castle is the ancestral home of the Dukes of Atholl. The family sampled the whisky along with Kythe Distillery co-founder Angus MacRaild, an expert in old and rare whiskies.

‘This is a profoundly historic whisky and a remarkable artefact of Scottish distilling that is unlikely to ever be equalled in terms of provenance and preservation,’ said MacRaild.

‘That it has been carefully re-bottled and preserved at natural strength, maintaining the freshness and power of this spirit for nearly two centuries is frankly, astonishing. To taste it myself has been a great privilege.’

MacRaild said it offers ‘clear textural weight’ in the mouth, while the flavour profile features medicinal characteristics, but without any discernible peat smoke.

Whisky Auctioneer has secured 24 bottles of the Scotch, which will go under the hammer from 24 November to 4 December. Each bottle is expected to fetch around £10,000.

‘Offering the world’s oldest scotch whisky at auction is truly a once in a lifetime occurrence. I’m fortunate to be well acquainted with old and rare liquid, as Whisky Auctioneer handles some of the world’s rarest whisky bottlings,’ said head curator Joe Wilson. ‘This, however, is a transcendent discovery that is sure to capture not just the imagination of the whisky industry but also those well beyond.’

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In a testament to our commitment to diversity and inclusion, we are proud to announce that for the second consecutive year, we will be sponsoring the prestigious ‘Writer of the Year’ category at the BIH Spotlight Awards. This event, now in its second year, symbolises a celebration of the exceptional achievements and contributions of individuals from black, Asian, and ethnic minority backgrounds working in hospitality, food, and drink.

Last October, we were honoured to support this initiative and witness the extraordinary talent that emerged from within these communities. The response last year exceeded all expectations, and this year, in anticipation of an even larger turnout, the awards will be hosted at the illustrious and spacious M Threadneedle Street – an award-winning restaurant that perfectly embodies the grandeur of this celebration.

A notable addition is our very own commissioning editor, Julie Sheppard, who will serve as one of the judges on the panel.

Meet the Judges

Julie’s extensive experience and eye for exceptional writing make her an invaluable addition to the esteemed judging panel.

Julie Sheppard commissioning editor/ regional editor – Spain, Portugal & South America

The ‘Writer of the Year’ award will celebrate journalists and writers who have the ability to captivate audience interests and ignite the imagination within the industry. The recipient of this award will be recognised for their creativity, authenticity, and their talent to breathe new life into the world of hospitality, food, and drink writing. The finalists for this category have displayed outstanding skill and creativity in their ability to capture the essence of the hospitality, food, and drink industries through their words.

We are excited to introduce you to the exceptional finalists who have been shortlisted for the ‘Writer of the Year’ category:

Writer of the Year – Sponsored by Decanter

Chetna Makan @chetnamakan : Born in Jabalpur, Central India. Award winning food writer and author of 7 cookbooks.

Jimi Famurewa @jimfamished : British- Nigerian author, broadcaster and freelance journalist. Chief restaurant critic for The Evening Standard. Guest judge on the BBC One series MasterChef and one of the lead judges on Channel 4’s The Great Cookbook Challenge with Jamie Oliver.

Gurdeep “Gurd” Loyal @gurd_loyal Award winning British- Indian food writer and monthly columnist at Olive Magazine.

Rashmi Narayan @rashnarayan_traveller: Freelance travel journalist and guidebook author specialising in history, food and drink.

Click here to the view finalists for all categories

The winners will be chosen by the panel and announced at a live ceremony on Monday 16th October 2023 at M Threadneedle Street, London.

Join us in celebrating these extraordinary talents and in championing diversity within the hospitality, food, and drink sectors. Together, we can continue to build a more inclusive future for all.

Browse the other Award Categories

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The post Celebrating diversity in hospitality: Decanter's second year as sponsors of the BIH Spotlight Awards appeared first on Decanter.

Authorities found hungry, exhausted workers living in a squalid hut when conducting a routine check in Nesle-le-Repons, a village in the Marne Valley.

Gendarmes and officers from France’s MSA agency regularly inspect these buildings in a bid to combat illegal work.

They discovered ‘makeshift bedding, dilapidation, unsanitary conditions, lack of cleaning and disinfection, the disgusting state of toilets, sanitary facilities and common areas [and] the accumulation of faecal matter in the sanitary facilities’, according to a report from the prefectural decree.

Officials also noted non-compliant electrical applications, which posed a risk to the 52 undocumented workers, who were from Senegal, Mali, Mauritania, Guinea and Gambia.

One of the Champagne pickers shared video footage of the accommodation with French media outlets, showing a mud floor, grimy beds and no ceiling.

They told reporters that they were recruited in Paris and promised €80 per day to pick Champagne grapes, but the funds were not forthcoming. The workers said they were only given a bag of rice and a few bunches of grapes to eat.

‘We were hot during the day and cold at night,’ said one worker, Mahamadou, who came from Mali to France to pick grapes, in an interview with l’Humanité. ‘We didn’t eat much, like dogs, we slept [penned in] like sheep, we washed with cold water. We were treated like slaves. The toilets were clogged, it smelled very bad. We really suffered.’

Sabine Duménil, general secretary of the local trade union in Marne, went to meet the seasonal workers after hearing the news.

‘They were mistreated in every way,’ she told Journal L’Union. ‘Some of them suffer from respiratory problems. There was no roof, showers or blankets.’

The Salvation Army rehoused them in hotels located in Châlons-en-Champagne and Reims.

‘These seasonal workers have not received the promised remuneration,’ added Duménil, who hopes to accompany them to an industrial tribunal.

Reports in France have alleged that the premises were owned by a Paris-based company called Anavim, a service provider that specialises in vineyard work.

However, Céline Fassey, vice-prosecutor of Châlons-en-Champagne, told AFP that ‘several companies’ are being targeted in their investigations.

She added that they were not linked to the four grape pickers that died of suspected heatstroke during this year’s Champagne harvest.

Fassey did not disclose which Champagne producer’s vineyards these undocumented migrants were working at.

Around 120,000 seasonal workers generally help out with the two-week annual Champagne harvest. Growers in the region – where machine harvesting is prohibited – typically recruit grape pickers through specialist agencies.

José Blanco, the general secretary for the CGT trade union in the Champagne region, railed against the ‘omerta’ in the ‘world of Champagne’.

‘Everyone turns a blind eye because it’s the most expensive grape in the world,’ he told AFP.

There have been several human trafficking scandals in the region over the past few years. Last summer, Chandrika Thangarajah and Pathmaja Suntharalingam – founders of a wine service company called Rajviti – were found guilty of ‘trafficking in human beings’ and sentenced to three years in prison after housing undocumented migrants in unsanitary conditions in Marne.

Earlier this month, French authorities also found 18 Bulgarian grape pickers housed in potentially hazardous conditions in Cuis, near Epernay.

In a separate case, around 150 Ukrainian grape pickers were found in an unsanitary and dangerous building in Mourmelon-le-Petit in the Marne Valley in September. Officials ordered its closure and put the owner on notice.

The post Human trafficking investigations launched in the Champagne region appeared first on Decanter.

Many people know – or think they know – the wine of Meursault. A rich wine with aromas of hazelnut, butter, an edge of honey and a bit of oak spice all fit into the stock conception of Meursault.

However, after tasting more than a hundred wines and visiting 18 Meursault producers, I am more convinced than ever that there are many Meursaults, and it pays to discover them all. As Dr. Lavalle wrote in 1855: ‘After Montrachet, I know of no other white wine more exquisite.’

Scroll down to view Charles Curtis MW’s notes and scores for 33 wines from Meursault

See Charles Curtis MW’s notes and scores of 33 distinctive wines from Meursault

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Founded in 1885, Rutini is a winery steeped in tradition but also at the forefront of the dynamic wine scene in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. The identity of Rutini today is synonymous with both tradition and innovation. One tradition that reigns strong in Rutini is the art of blending, although the approach has transformed over the years. ‘Our blending has changed as our knowledge of the micro-terroirs of Mendoza has evolved,’ explains Winemaking Director Mariano Di Paola, who is celebrating his 30th vintage at Rutini this year. ‘The panorama is much wider each year, with so many options to choose from, as we separate soil types, climates, varieties and vinification methods.’

A gift to the family

Today Rutini’s state-of-the-art winery in Gualtallary is a true playground of oenology — filled with different-shaped vats, vessels and barrels. But the modern incarnation of Rutini’s premium blends began in a far more humble fashion in 1997 – and rather unintentionally. ‘I have a very large family with 15 brothers and sisters, and I decided to make a special wine for my family for the turn of the millennium,’ recalls Di Paola. ‘I set aside a couple barrels of a blend I made with Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.’ The excitement and appreciation of all those who tasted the wine, however, forced Di Paola to release the blend commercially rather than keeping it as a family celebratory secret.

Rutini’s state-of-the-art winery in Gualtallary

That first selection of barrels, bottled as Apartado, was launched in 2000 and was a sensation. Ever-changing blends Apartado, meaning ‘set aside’, has become an iconic wine in Argentina. The red blend changes each year, and is now joined by an Apartado Gran Chardonnay and Gran Malbec. Di Paola says that blending is very much at the heart of both singlevarietal wines too: ‘We have at least ten different components that go into our Apartado Gran Malbec!’

For Apartado, as with the excellent value Encuentro line, Di Paola weaves together wines made from different plots and in different vessels to create unique expressions of each. Perhaps the pinnacle of his artful blends, though, is the Antología line. ‘These are unrepeatable wines; they are wines to surprise you, and no edition is ever the same,’ says Di Paola.

Rutini Apartado Gran Blend

Patience rewarded

The current release, Antología No 51, is a blend of Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Viognier from the 2017 vintage. Although unorthodox, the result is glorious — elegant, layered and with tannins that are beautifully resolved following several years in bottle. The patience necessary to release wines with bottle age is also part of Rutini’s ethos, but Di Paola insists that it is never pre-prescribed. Like the blending, it is based on experience and intuition: ‘Each wine is unique, that’s what’s beautiful about it — you really have to feel the wine, which is why I do believe blending is not a science but art.’ It is most certainly an art that Rutini is a master of.

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The post Rutini - mastering the art of blending appeared first on Decanter.

Our go-to guide for the finest wine shops, online retailers, wine specialists, subscriptions, cellar doors and wine services across the UK.

Wine is about people, and this year we wanted to bring increased recognition of this into these awards, hence introducing gongs for wine buyers and buying teams.

We’ve also added new categories for UK Cellar Doors and Winery Wine Clubs to recognise the exciting developments on those fronts.

Browse through these names, glass of wine in hand, and it’s hard not to feel a genuine sense of excitement, pride and awe at what these outstanding people are doing for wine in the UK. We should all raise a glass to them.

Scroll down to see the 2023 winners

More results to be announced tomorrow: Best National, Supermarket, Online, Regional and Hybrid Retailers, plus Cellar Door, Winery Wine Club, Wine Buyer, Buying Team, Judges’ Choice & Outstanding Wine Retailer of Year

Decanter Retailer Awards: The 2023 winners

Green Champion of the Year

Winner: Direct Wines
Runner-up: The Wine Society
This is always one of the closest-fought, most intriguing categories to judge.Strong opinions flew – Direct Wines (owner of UK retail arms Laithwaites Wine and Averys) won thanks to its ‘comprehensive’ action plan across many aspects of the business, from packaging to transport, training and biodiversity. The Wine Society has similarly impressed this year for its leadership and outstanding work on sustainability.

Newcomer of the Year

Winner: Amphora Cambridge Ltd
Runner-up: Jesmond Wine Company
Cambridge merchant Amphora opened in 2022 but has hit the ground running to such an extent that you hardly believe it’s so young. ‘Seriously impressive for such a new player on the scene,’ said one judge. ‘Great range, brave choices, lots of wines by the glass,’ added another. Jesmond is an excellent new wine shop in Newcastle.

Own Brand Wine Range of the Year

Winner: The Wine Society
Runner-up: Marks & Spencer
The Wine Society won among many strong entries for not only the impressive breadth and depth of its 83-strong The Society range but also its willingness to innovate, as seen in its revamped packaging including right-weighting of bottles and the introduction of ‘bag in box’ for key lines. M&S earned praise for its ambitious Collection line, encouraging customers to trade up.

Virtual Wine Experience of the Year

Winner: The Wine Society
Runner-up: The Online Tasting Company
While it’s been a joy to resume normal life and wine events in person, there remains a demand for virtual wine experiences. The Wine Society delivers an impressive range and quantity of virtual wine events that is ‘in a league of its own’, according to one judge. The Online Tasting Co also continues to do good work in this sphere.

Specialist Categories

Australia Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: The Vinorium 
‘You feel secure buying from them, they know what they’re doing – the range is fantastic and it was a pleasure using the website,’ said one judge of The Vinorium. ‘Great range and depth,’ said another.

Bordeaux Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Bordeaux Index
Runner-up: Justerini & Brooks
In the words of one judge, Bordeaux Index is a retailer ‘revitalised – now the full package’, offering not only a huge range of fine wine but also a wealth of information on Bordeaux and beyond. Justerini has done a good job not just offering top châteaux but also championing lesser names.

Burgundy Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Justerini & Brooks
Runner-up: House of Townend
Specialising in Burgundy can prove a double-edged sword, but Justerini & Brooks continues to demonstrate great intent, visiting regularly to maintain relationships with high-profile names and discover new up-and-coming estates. It remains a benchmark for Burgundy in the UK. House of Townend sources 90% of its Burgundy directly, to great effect.

Central & Eastern Europe Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Novel Wines
Runner-up: Amphora Cambridge Ltd
Novel Wines continues to impress, having expanded its range (again), redeveloped its website, grown the team, upped direct shipping and laid on an impressive number of events. Amphora has done impressive work in this category for such a new operation.

Champagne & Sparkling Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: The Whisky Exchange
Runner-up: Lea & Sandeman
In what’s always a highly competitive category, The Whisky Exchange won for its extensive range, impressive growth, ‘clear passion’ for fizz, and commitment to events including the annual Champagne Show. Lea & Sandeman has been doing ‘outstanding, brilliant, ongoing’ work on its Champagne offering, having revamped the range and focused on smaller growers.

England & Wales Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Corkk Ltd
Runner-up: Waitrose & Partners Ltd 
Corkk was praised for being ‘really dynamic, and doing a lot to promote English wines’, including hosting events and offering tastings via Enomatic machine, ‘which is important when wines can not only be new to people but also expensive and hit-and-miss’. Waitrose continues to do great work for English and Welsh wine.

Germany Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Howard Ripley Wines
Runner-up: Justerini & Brooks
Great to see three outstanding German retailers in this category. Hard to separate them, but Howard Ripley continues to innovate, grow and engage its customers, with a terrific range. Justerini also offers a brilliant German line-up from Riesling to Pinot Noir and beyond.

Italy Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Bat & Bottle Wine Merchants
Runner-up: Justerini & Brooks
‘With Bat and Bottle you just feel the love for what they do, the passion for the wines,’ enthused one judge. ‘It’s a very broad range from the head to heel of Italy,’ commented another, noting the extensive events, courses, updated website, vintage reports, and adding: ‘You wonder where the hell they get the time to do all that and offer such a personable service.’ Justerini continues to excel in Italy.

Loire Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Majestic Wine
Making admirable progress across a number of regions, Majestic offers surprising value and breadth of range across the Loire Valley, from Muscadet to Montlouis and more.

New Zealand Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Field and Fawcett 
York merchant Field & Fawcett offers an impressive breadth of styles and price points in the New Zealand category, perhaps a result of the ‘deep connection’ this merchant has with the country given owner and director Peter Fawcett has dual citizenship. It even sells a ‘Vandal’ Sauvignon Blanc co-fermented with New Zealand Bluff oysters…

Portugal Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Festa Wine
Runner-up: Vintage Wine and Port Ltd
Very exciting to see a new specialist Portuguese player on the scene like Festa, offering not just an adventurous, approachable range but also a successful consumer festival to boot, at a time when Portuguese wine seems to be, in the words of one judge, ‘having a moment’ in the UK. Vintage Wine & Port does a great job with a huge range.

Rhône Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Carringtons
Runner-up: Justerini & Brooks
Carringtons isn’t the biggest merchant but it does a cracking job on Rhône, with great expertise, 97% shipped direct, and the range bolstered by the owner’s personal cellar when needed. Justerini has a lipsmacking Rhône range and continues to do a good job.

South & Regional France Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Wickhams 
Wickhams has done excellent work this past year on Beaujolais and also beyond, with two-thirds direct sourcing and the category accounting for a fifth of sales.

South Africa Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Swig Wines Ltd
Runner-up: Museum Wines
Excitement comes as standard in the South Africa category, and Swig is doing a brilliant job of not just securing seriously exciting wines but also then promoting and selling them to receptive customers. Museum Wines remains a shining beacon for South African wines in the UK.

Spain Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Justerini & Brooks
Runner-up: Highbury Vintners
Justerini has revamped many of its supposedly lesser-speciality ranges lately, but few to such stellar effect as Spain – wine lovers should take note, especially given the diversity and value of the wines now on offer. Highbury offers an excellent and diverse Spanish range.

Sweet & Fortified Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Cambridge Wine Merchants  
Runner-up: Vintage Wine & Port Ltd
Cambridge Wine offers a treasure trove of wines across the sweet as well as fortified ranges – the category accounting for nearly a fifth of sales and a traditional strong point for this retailer. Vintage Wine & Port is a true specialist and outstanding in its field.

USA Specialist Retailer of the Year

Winner: Four Corners Wine Company Ltd
Runner-up: Justerini & Brooks 
Four Corners is a true specialist with a 500-strong California list and doing an excellent job for a smaller player. Justerini has revamped its US portfolio to brilliant effect.

Wine Support Services

En Primeur Campaign of the Year

Winner: Jeroboams (Bordeaux Campaign)
Runner-up: Justerini & Brooks (Burgundy Campaign)
Two strong entries in this category, and Jeroboams impressed with the range of its Bordeaux campaign, not just in terms of châteaux but also formats and second wines, plus an engaging approach to marketing including targeting a younger clientele. Justerini ran a strong Burgundy campaign featuring not just the grand names but also ‘unsung heroes’.

Subscription Wine Club of the Year

Winner: Ourglass & Partners Ltd
Runner-up: Bat & Bottle Wine Merchants
The self-stated aim of Ourglass is, ‘to turn wine drinkers into wine lovers’. Judges were impressed by the userfriendly and comprehensive nature of the subscription offering, complete with assigned wine professional, videos and various thematic levels. Bat and Bottle offers a highly personal, accessible and affordable service.

The 2023 judging panel

• Peter Richards MW is an awarded writer and broadcaster, including as co-host of the chart-topping Wine Blast podcast. He is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile, and Chair of our Retailer Awards since 2013
• Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW is a widely published wine writer, consultant and WSET educator. She is a regular contributor to Decanter, and is the DWWA Regional Chair for Tuscany
• Laura Clay is a council member of the Association of Wine Educators, an experienced wine presenter and accredited Bordeaux and Rioja tutor, and was UK Champagne Ambassador in 2010
• Leona De Pasquale is a wine educator, writer and translator. Founder of London-based tea and wine training and events company Camellia & Vine, she also teaches at various wine schools including the WSET London
• Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and a DWWA Regional Chair. A former wine buyer in major retail for more than 30 years, he now runs his own wine consultancy Vinetrades
• Simon Field MW was formerly a buyer for merchant Berry Bros & Rudd and now consults on areas that particularly interest him, including Champagne, Rhône, Spain, fortified and English wines
• Mags Janjois director of his own company MJ Wine Cellars, importing niche, smallbatch wines, creating brands for UK retailers, and offering wine education and consultancy services

In support of the drinks community, for a fourth year proceeds from the 2023 awards will again be donated to nominated charities including charities The Drinks Trust, The Ben and The Regenerative Viticulture Foundation.

More results announced tomorrow: Best National, Supermarket, Online, Regional and Hybrid Retailers, plus Cellar Door, Winery Wine Club, Wine Buyer, Buying Team, Judges’ Choice & Outstanding Wine Retailer of Year

How to buy wine online

How to buy wine at a supermarket

How to buy wine at a specialist retailer

See the Decanter Retailer Awards 2023 Shortlist

The post Decanter Retailer Awards 2023: First set of results revealed appeared first on Decanter.

Why is it that Châteauneuf-du-Pape is so well known? Even non-drinkers can tell you it’s the name of a great wine. Its celebrity is built on centuries of impressive quality, but there are a number of other contributing factors: the papal seal of approval, a long history of exporting, and the fact that the name of the appellation tells its story.

The best wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape deserve this renown. But with an appellation spread over 3,200ha, inevitably there are some wines which simply aren’t that interesting, trading on a famous name rather than intrinsic quality.

Châteauneuf isn’t cheap: it’s almost impossible to buy a bottle for less than £20 today in UK retail. So if you’re on a budget, you need to step carefully. But it is still possible to find excellent wines under £40 per bottle – I even found a few under £30.

Scroll down for Matt Walls’ pick of 26 value Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines to try

Matt Walls’ pick of 26 value Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines to try:

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Vintage report: Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020

The post Walls: 26 value Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines to try appeared first on Decanter.

Uruguay has become a hotbed of innovation, with winemakers exploring deeper into new wine regions and taking chances on an ever-greater diversity of grape varieties that goes far beyond the country’s flagship Tannat. While Albariño has been Uruguay’s rising star of recent years, winemakers are now delving into other salivating white wines to suit the maritime climate.

Bodega Los Cerros de San Juan on the shores of the River Plate in Colonia used to be a lone advocate for Riesling. Today though, it is joined by Bodega Bouza, making racy Riesling on the syenite-rich slopes of Pan de Azúcar; and by Becasina, not far from the wild waves that whip Cabo Polonio, in the emerging region of Rocha. Chardonnay has also taken on a new lease of life with the precision and focus of super premium labels, such as those of Cerro del Toro and Familia Deicas.

Bodega Bouza

When it comes to red wines, it is now Cabernet Franc which is the variety on every winemaker’s lips. Viña Progreso, Alto de la Ballena, Bohemia by Fiore and Bodega Garzón in particular are garnering critical acclaim for their fresh Cabernet Franc. Pinot Noir has long been the calling card for the Pisano and Marichal families in the undulating hills of Canelones, but the grape has also taken on new extreme coastal terroir just 400 metres from the Atlantic sea in Maldonado with Compañía Uruguaya de Vinos de Mar.

Others are taking inspiration from champion varieties of the Americas, such as Gimenez Mendez with its focus on Malbec and Artesana’s pioneering of Uruguayan Zinfandel. There has also been a revival of some of the more traditional varieties of Uruguay, with vignerons like Fabiana Bracco’s Bracco Bosca taking the lead with Ugni Blanc, Santiago Deicas’ Fºamilia Diecas championing Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng, and Proyecto Nakkal revitalising Muscat. Pablo Fallabrino is also paving the way for a revival of some of the older Italian varieties in Uruguay, including Barbera and Nebbiolo.

Cerro del Toro

Innovation is proliferating in the cellar too. Skin contact orange wines are seeing a renaissance – ranging from the opulence of Bizarra Extravaganza to elegant understated styles by Bodega Oceánica José Ignacio and Proyecto Nakkal. Bracco Bosca is also bringing back the heritage of ‘clarete’, a deeply coloured rose, with an excellent Merlot and Ugni Blanc blend. Meanwhile, treatment of red wines in the cellar, is being revamped with fresher winemaking styles.

Pizzorno has long been a champion of carbonic maceration Tannat, and there are now a dozen wineries joining the movement towards youthful and approachable wines that offer a counterpart to the more traditional styles of ageworthy, oaked red wines. Unoaked Tannat, often aged in amphora or concrete, is one of the fastest growing categories in Uruguay today with wineries ranging from Montes Toscanini to Viña Edén embracing it. Today, more than ever, Uruguay is showing a true rainbow of wine styles, regions and varieties, as it enters a colourful and delicious new era of diversity.

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After the annual Greek wine fair Oenorama in March, I darted from Athens to Central Greece to the Valley of the Muses before swooping down to eastern Crete. The surging feeling of energy across the Greek wine scene is so potent right now that if you offered me a Greek passport I’d change my name to Giorgos in a heartbeat.

From the front line of Greece’s deep-rooted vineyards, I bring my very own blueprint for the Ten Commandments of Greek Wine…

1. Old vines are big news

From Mouhtaro in the Valley of the Muses to Savatiano in Central Greece to the familiar veneration of Assyrtiko in Santorini, old vines are extensive in Greece and there are plenty more to discover, promote and celebrate.

2. It’s not all about sunshine

Greece is a land of snow-capped mountains, abundant hillsides, lakes and endless coastline. Sun-drenched islands may be the familiar poster campaign, but there is so much more – you’ll find cool-climate vineyards in regions from Epirus in the northwestern mainland, where it often snows, to the breezy Valley of the Muses and the high Ziros plateau in Crete. Warmth in Greece is often mitigated by wind, water and altitude.

3. Assyrtiko is the flagship white

Beyond Santorini, plenty of contrasting styles of Assyrtiko are marching across the mainland and islands. But after Assyrtiko, the next superhero white grape is waiting in the wings. Savatiano has widespread planting and quality. But Kidonitsa, albeit in small quantities, deserves to be leading the charge.

Assyrtiko vines growing in traditional basket style on the island of Santorini

4. Savatiano is the Chenin Blanc of Greece

If you haven’t tasted aged Savatiano, please put it at the top of your must-try list – it’s capable of great and fascinating diversity. When it evolves, the aromas are compellingly
Chenin-meets-Riesling; the flavours as deep as a citrus canyon echoing to Iggy Pop’s boldest growl.

5. The Greek wine industry has a fresh face

Young wine-growers, plenty of female winemakers, siblings, friends and international experience are all reinforcing an industry which now feels bonded by camaraderie. This is a game-changer. From Tselepos to Skouras to Gaia to Monemvasia, as old rivalries fade, the next generation is creating a new legacy by youthful revolution.

6. Dark rosé should become a trend

In Greece, I found it can be deeply fruity, dry, or even have an appetising touch of sweetness. Deeper colour seems to allow a more faithful iteration of local grapes – in my view, Greece can deliver much more range and complexity by not worrying about the current obsession with pale rosé. Samartzis Winery’s Mouhtaro One 2022 (Alcohol 13%) is one of my favourite deeper rosés (think strawberry meets pomegranate) and, alas with no UK importer, currently is available from botilia.gr for €15.60 – even with clobbering import taxes outside the EU plus shipping fees, I ordered myself a case [check with the retailer before finalising purchase].

7. The most recent vintage is not necessarily the best

Greek wines, both red and white, take time. While it can deliver fruity flair in youth, Xinomavro benefits hugely from bottle age and I’m pleased to see big names such as Boutari, as well as the wizard of Xinomavro himself, Apostolos Thymiopoulos, holding back vintages before release. Liatiko can similarly be wonderful when young, with urgent fruit twisting into a sour cherry tang, but with a few years of bottle age it unwinds into strata of compelling savoury finesse. Ageing Greek white wine, however, is the hidden headline here. When I had the chance to taste the Papagiannakos, Honores Savatiano 2015 (Alc 12.5%) at the winery I nearly fell off my chair, I felt so deeply stunned and delighted by its confounding riddle of everlasting complexity. And even more everyday whites can perform miracles in the bottle, such as Toplou’s Assyrtiko 2019 (Alc 13%) from Crete; a wine which sells locally for just over €10 on release, it ages into a vortex of beeswax, nuts and evocative evolution.

8. Xinomavro is superb and deserves to be the flagship red grape

But beyond the wave of international appreciation for Xinomavro, I am convinced that Limniona and Mouhtaro are both capable of leading the vanguard as the next hero status red wine legends of Greece.

9. Blends are only just beginning

My advice to producers is ‘Be bold!’. Muses Estate’s entry-level Clio white (Alc 12.5%) is perfectly balanced, fused from Assyrtiko, Roditis and Savatiano, and oustanding
value in the UK (2022, £15.95, Strictly Wine). And while I adore a varietal Malagousia white, it too performs gentle aromatic miracles as part of a blend. While I mostly eschew international grape varieties in Greek wine (Avantis Estate Syrah Collection 2019 being a notable exception), they can prove useful for blending.

10. Dessert wines are stellar and a huge part of Greek wine heritage

Samos is famous, Santorini’s vinsanto is legendary, but I would urge you to take another look at top-quality aged Mavrodaphne. I’m a particular fan of the work of Parparoussis Winery, and for a mind-blowing balance of sticky zing its white Muscat de Rio Patras 2018 is available from Cava Spiliadis UK for £28.50/50cl. It’s a world-class wine that every dessert wine fan simply must taste.

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