Philippe Schaus, chairman and chief executive of the Moët Hennessy division of LVMH, called Joseph Phelps Vineyards ‘an iconic name and an iconic winery’.

Joseph Phelps founded his eponymous winery on a 260ha former cattle ranch in Napa Valley in 1973.

He turned it into one of California’s most prominent producers, famed for its flagship Insignia – a Bordeaux-style blend – and its pioneering use of Rhône varieties, which kick-started the ‘Rhône Rangers’ movement in the Golden State.

The founder’s son, Bill Phelps, joined the business in 1998 and serves as executive chairman, while third-generation family members are also part of the executive management team.

Joseph Phelps owns 172ha of vineyards in Napa Valley on nine estate plots, spread across St Helena, Rutherford, Oakville, Stags Leap District, Oak Knoll District, South Napa and Carneros. It also has 40ha over two vineyards on the western Sonoma Coast.

‘It’s important for us that we are acquiring a family business with a legacy and heritage,’ said Schaus. ‘It’s super important that we keep that heritage.’

LVMH portfolio

Moët Hennessy is best known for its Champagne portfolio, which includes Moët & Chandon, Krug, Veuve Clicquot, Dom Pérignon, Ruinart and Armand de Brignac, along with spirits such as Hennessy, Ardbeg and Glenmorangie.

However, it also has a formidable portfolio of still wines, featuring the likes of Château Cheval Blanc, Clos des Lambrays, Château Galoupet, Whispering Angel, Cloudy Bay and sweet wine Château d’Yquem.

It already owns the prestigious Newton Vineyard in Napa Valley’s Spring Mountain AVA, and it has now bolstered its Californian range with the Joseph Phelps Vineyards purchase

LVMH’s aim is to serve the manifold ‘moments of consumption’, from aperitifs and Champagne receptions to fine dining, bars, clubs and cocktails.

Shaus said Moët Hennessy was missing ‘a strong red wine’, so it swooped upon Joseph Phelps Vineyards.

‘LVMH values and embraces all of our brilliant and dedicated team members and all those who have spent decades helping to make Joseph Phelps Vineyards what it is today,’ said the Phelps family in a statement confirming the sale.

‘The added resources and support that LVMH brings will help carry the principles we all hold dear – innovation, sustainability, and the pursuit of excellence – forward to the next 50 years and beyond.’

Related content

LVMH acquires 50% of Jay-Z’s Armand de Brignac Champagne

Champagne and Cognac sales grow for LVMH in 2021

Joseph Phelps Vineyards: producer profile

The post LVMH buys Napa Valley's Joseph Phelps Vineyards appeared first on Decanter.

Alistair Cooper MW, Dirceu Vianna Junior MW and David Williams tasted 149 wines, with 15 Highly Recommended.

Value Argentinian Malbec panel tasting scores

149 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 15

Recommended 92

Commended 40

Fair 1

Poor 1

Faulty 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release vintage Argentinian red wines containing at least 85% Malbec

We received a whopping 149 samples for this marathon tasting, illustrating just how competitive this sector of the Malbec market is.

Having recently taken part in the impressive premium Malbec tasting for Decanter, I was keen to assess the value proposition at the more affordable end of the market.

Disappointingly I was left underwhelmed and somewhat confused as to the direction that producers are pursuing at the grass roots level.

Scroll down for the top-scoring value Argentinian Malbec wines

Stylistic uncertainty seems to be the key issue, as well as inconsistency.

At the premium end we had seen a refreshing move away from over-extraction and over-oaking towards an emphasis on purity and expression of place. Yet here we saw too many clumsy wines, with winemakers favouring style over substance.

Top-scoring value Argentinian Malbec: 

The judges

Alistair Cooper MW is a wine consultant, writer, broadcaster and educator with a particular focus on South America. President of the Cata d’Or wine awards in Chile, he is also consultant wine buyer for United Cellars in Sydney.

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, consultant, educator and broadcaster. Moving to the UK in 1989, he spent much of his career as wine director for some of the UK’s most prominent wine distributors, and in 2008 he became the first South American male to obtain the Master of Wine title.

David Williams is a regular contributor to Decanter on all things Spanish. He is also wine correspondent for The Observer, deputy editor of The World of Fine Wine, and a columnist for trade magazine The Wine Merchant.

Related content

Argentina harvest report 2022: ‘wines with excellent ageing potential’

Amanda Barnes: My top 10 South American wines of 2021

South American Cabernet Sauvignon: setting the standard

The post Value Argentinian Malbec: panel tasting results appeared first on Decanter.

Twenty-five producers joined forces to create a non-profit called Save the Family Farms, which lobbied the Napa County Board of Supervisors to create the new category.

In March 2022, the board unanimously approved the ‘micro-winery’ ordinance, providing craft producers in the region with a vital lifeline – it will make it easier for them to bring their wines to market, while also permitting them to host tastings for the first time.

The ordinance came into effect in May, and the region’s small producers are now adjusting to life in this brave new era.

‘The micro-winery ordinance will change the Napa Valley as we know it,’ said Elise Nerlove, a second-generation grape grower at the 3.2ha Elkhorn Park Cellars estate in South Napa, who serves as vice president of Save the Family Farms.

Back in 1990, Napa County laid out a legal definition for what constitutes a winery. One provision requires them to produce a minimum of 10,000 US gallons – or 2,000 cases – per year.

That prevented the producers in the Save the Family Farms group from obtaining ‘winery’ status, meaning they could not host tastings. That has seriously restricted their ability to ramp up sales in the direct-to-consumer channel.

Many sold out or went bust, so some of the remaining producers began the fight for a new ‘micro-winery’ category. When they succeeded in their long-running battle, Nerlove described it as ‘a preservation of yesteryear’.

These small, family-run operations will now be able to host tastings and unlock several additional benefits.

Any estate that produces between 201 and 5,000 US gallons per year can now apply for a ‘micro-winery’ permit, provided 75% of their grapes come from the property or owned adjacent parcels.

A traditional winery permit costs around $5 million to obtain. It requires a host of qualified consultants and it is a very time-consuming process. Micro-wineries, meanwhile, can pursue a streamlined application process. The applications will go straight to the Zoning Administrator, cutting out the need for Planning Commission approval, which should save three to four months.

The process will also be a lot cheaper, so the new category should start to take shape in the months ahead.

Related articles

Napa Valley’s Shafer Vineyards sold to Korean group Shinsegae

Napa Valley barrel auction total hits $1.5m

Collective Napa Valley wine programme makes debut

The post Napa Valley ‘micro-wineries’ prepare for brave new era appeared first on Decanter.

According to lifestyle and happiness guru Gretchen Rubin, you ‘bring your own weather to a picnic’. Ms Rubin, I’d suggest, has never shivered under a tree watching raindrops turn her fish-paste sandwich to mush because the weather forecast was wrong.

There are, it’s safe to say, picnics and Picnics. It’s a term that takes in everything from a rubber baguette in a French ‘Aire’ off the Autoroute du Soleil to a four-course spread while listening to opera at Glyndebourne.

What’s definitely true is that the Picnic As Event is enjoying something of a resurgence. With travel largely off the table for the last two years, and bars and restaurants intermittently shut, people have had to get their fun in other ways, often involving a large tartan rug, plastic glasses and screaming children being chased by wasps.

If you’ve actively decided to go and eat en plein air, then something decent to drink is very much part of the equation. Unless, of course, you’re Edouard Manet. His Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe painting – the most controversially famous picnic of all time – appeared to feature nothing but some bread and apples and, apparently, not enough clothes to go round.

So assuming that we can’t, disappointingly, learn from impressionist artists in this matter, how do you get your drinks offering right?

Putting it together

Credit: Lumi Images / Pupeter-Secen / Getty Images

‘Thousands of picnic experiences are wrecked every year by the whole “who’s got the corkscrew..?” exchange’

Before we go off selecting bottles, understand that picnics are largely about logistical preparation. So if you’re the kind of person who starts assembling an Ikea wardrobe without checking you’ve got all the components first, you need to have a word with yourself.

When serving drinks at home, everything is to hand: bottles, glasses, corkscrews. And of course, it’s easy to get everything to the right temperature. None of this is true for a picnic. The corkscrew issue is, in theory, easy to solve. But thousands of picnic experiences are wrecked every year by the whole ‘who’s got the corkscrew?’, ‘I thought you had it’ exchange.

Fear of forgetting one is probably an actual phobia, so if you’re prone to utensil amnesia it could make sense to consider bottles with screwcaps or stoppers. And always keep a spare corkscrew in your wine carry bag.

Which brings us to the question of how you transport your drink – something that will probably depend on the scale and nature of your picnic. If you’re going for the ‘full wicker hamper’ approach, chances are you will be driving to a spot fairly close to where you’re actually eating. In which case you’ll probably be going down the thoroughly civilised ‘ice box and proper glasses’ route. Ice boxes are heavy and cumbersome, but they are a) much lighter to carry back once all the bottles have been emptied and the meltwater disposed of, and b) can form a very useful impromptu seat for those who don’t like sitting on the grass for several hours.

If your picnic requires a longer walk, or is just less formal, I’d strongly recommend a bottle carrying case. These can be slung over one shoulder or carried with a handle.

There are fancy padded ones that can safely transport a bottle and two (glass) glasses, and less robust versions that will easily let you carry two, three, four or even six (!) bottles.

Levels of insulation, durability and carrying styles vary, but there are lots of good options around £20-£30 so it’s worth doing a bit of research and picking a model that fits your requirements, such as the Croft Collection Wine Bottle Cooler Bag (£20 John Lewis), Kato Tirrinia 6 Bottle Wine Cooler Bag (£24.99 Amazon) or Greenfield Collection Contour Wine Cooler Bag (£22.99 greenfieldcollection.co.uk).

Some of these wine carry cases come complete with their own strapped-in plastic serving glasses. These might be hard-wearing, but they’re also often rather dowdy. Champagne houses, in particular, tend to have conniptions at the thought of their precious elixir being served in anything other than bespoke Champagne flutes.

Fortunately, there is a halfway house. GoVino glasses have been specially developed for outdoor drinking. They’re plastic (meaning they’re durable) but thin and don’t have a stem, so they’re harder to knock over. They look like the bowl of a decent-sized wine glass and should do justice to even really good wine (from £10.50 for a two-pack of white wine glasses, govino.co.uk).

The cool factor

Credit: Peter Atkinson / Alamy Stock Photo

‘Use lakes/ponds/streams as a free cool box, and wedge your bottles in there before opening’

Arguably the biggest challenge for picnics is getting your drink to the right temperature. Ice buckets or (more likely) ice boxes are the ideal solution, although both are somewhat cumbersome. Chiller sleeves can be a good alternative. Popping a bottle in the freezer for 20 minutes, then putting a chilled sleeve over it will help keep your wines cool for a while. Good ones to look out for are the Rapid Ice Wine Bottle Cooler (£11.99 Lakeland) or the Le Creuset Wine Cooler Sleeve (£24 John Lewis).

If you’re taking an ice box with you, it’s worth remembering two things. Firstly, wine cools faster in iced water than just ice (and even faster if you add salt); and secondly, a big hunk of ice melts far slower than smaller cubes. So, mixing fast- melting cubes with a slower-melting block will give you ice that chills fast, stays cold, and also allows you to hack chunks off the block for cocktails. Try the Lakeland Giant Ice Cube Tray (£12.99 Lakeland), or for a huge block of ice try a silicone sandwich loaf mould, such as the Lakeland Silicone 2lb Loaf Pan (£11.99 Lakeland).

It’s worth chilling your reds down a bit too. Most red wines are served too warm even in the home, so if a bottle is sitting outside, the most watery British sunshine could still quickly turn your juicy Fleurie to alcoholic soup.

If you’re going somewhere with water, it can be a really good idea to use lakes/ponds/streams as a free cool box, and wedge bottles in there before opening. Just make sure you’ve tied a string round the neck and secured it to something immovable such as a tree or slumbering family member.

A damp tea towel wrapped over a bottle doesn’t just help keep a bottle cool once it’s opened – it also helps protect against light-strike. It’s a wine fault that isn’t well known, but light-strike is a very real issue for wines when they’re drunk outdoors. According to David Way, senior wine qualifications developer at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, it’s caused by ‘UV radiation and certain wavelengths of visible light reacting with some compounds in the wine to form volatile sulphur compounds’. Basically, your wine smells of overcooked cabbage.

Dark bottles (green or brown) offer good protection, but clear glass is far more likely to be affected. This is bad news for that lovely summery bottle of rosé that you’ve packed, so if you can, treat it like a pale-skinned toddler and keep it wrapped up against the UV rays.

Selecting the bottles

Credit: iStock / Getty Images Plus

Having covered the logistics, let’s turn to the drinks themselves. Happily, picnics are not a place for hard and fast rules. Picnic food can vary massively, from smoked salmon and roast chicken to dips and pitta bread from the local supermarket – sometimes within the same occasion.

As such, matching – in as far as it exists – is probably as much about pairing the people and the occasion as it is with getting too caught up in finding the perfect partners for food.

Personally, I think fizz is essential, since it adds a sense of louche decadence to any occasion. Champagne is the obvious and most prestigious choice, but English sparkling sometimes has the light, breezy waft of the hedgerow to it, making it feel as though you’re drinking your surroundings.

And for more relaxed affairs, don’t discount the idea of a pét-nat (pétillant naturel) – particularly if you’re out with a younger crowd. Zesty and informal, they’re outdoor quaffing wines par excellence (look out for our guide to pét-nat in Decanter Magazine: August 2022 Issue).

For aperitifs, it’s well worth putting a few pre-mixed cocktails into your chiller as well. G&Ts in cans are obvious, but lots of people prefer the likes of a Mojito or Negroni over glasses of wine. Pre-mixed Taylor’s Chip Dry [white Port] & Tonic covers both bases. Cans have the advantage of being easy to transport, quick to chill and drinkable without a glass.

In fact, canned wines can be a good option too. They’re great for the impromptu ‘grab and go’ picnic, where they can be chilled with a sleeve and stuffed in a carrier bag. And they’re small enough to be chilled in a tupperware box filled with ice.

But they’re also a good way of providing some variety. Having six different wine styles, each available in a 250ml (large glass) size, should mean everyone gets more or less what they want. This is handy, because while hot weather should logically mean refreshing, zesty whites, some of your party may still prefer to drink richer reds. This is particularly true if your ‘picnic’ is actually an outdoor barbecue (don’t write in), but if you’re out ’til late, people will want fuller wines as the temperature drops.

The finer details

As a rule of thumb, it’s probably wisest to veer towards wine styles that drink well both with and without food and are not too high in either alcohol or tannin, since both elements are exaggerated in the heat. Muscadet, Picpoul, Chablis, Sauvignon Blanc, Rueda and Soave are all good starting points for whites; Riesling, Albariño and Assyrtiko will get you additional cred points if you’re pouring for a wine-literate audience.

For reds, crunchy midweight styles are safest. Pinot Noir, Beaujolais and Loire Cabernet Franc are all tried and tested. Mencía, Lagrein, unoaked Grenache/Garnacha and – a personal favourite
– Cerasuolo from Sicily do the same job but with more imagination. If you want something richer, a Mendoza Malbec will give red-lovers a bramble- fruited hug.

In general, mixing something decadent (sparkling/cocktails) with something refreshing and something quirkier should tick most boxes, provided you get the temperature and glasses right.

Nobody is there for the drink – but they’ll notice it if it’s good. ‘It’s an opportunity for a bit of preening,’ says Corney & Barrow associate director and buyer Rebecca Palmer. ‘For showing what you are capable of.’

And let’s face it, you could hardly do a worse job than Manet.

• More than 50 UK wineries have picnic areas. For further details, see Explore Our Vineyards on the Wines of Great Britain website.

Related articles

BBQ Wine: Great bottles to drink with classic barbecue dishes

Screwcap wine: Best summer picks

The 10 rules of food and wine pairing by Karen MacNeil

The post Decanter guide to picnicking for wine lovers appeared first on Decanter.

This week, Campania-based company, Tenute Capaldo Group announced that it is now a B-Corp. The Group comprises the Feudi di San Gregorio winery in Irpinia, estates in Bolgheri (Campo alle Comete) and Basilicata (Basilisco), and its two Marennà restaurants (one located at the Feudi winery and the other in Capodichino Airport).

What is a B-Corp?

The B-Corp is one of the most rigorous certifications in the world related to defining social, environmental and governance best practices for businesses. The B-Lab website describes its B-Corp certification as ‘a designation that a business is meeting high standards of verified performance, accountability, and transparency on factors from employee benefits and charitable giving to supply chain practices and input materials.’

B-Lab lists three key elements that must be addressed in order to become B-Corp-certified:

• Demonstrate high social and environmental performance by achieving a B Impact Assessment score of 80 or above and passing our risk review. Multinational corporations must also meet baseline requirement standards.
• Make a legal commitment by changing their corporate governance structure to be accountable to all stakeholders, not just shareholders, and achieve benefit corporation status if available in their jurisdiction.
• Exhibit transparency by allowing information about their performance measured against B Lab’s standards to be publicly available on their B Corp profile on B Lab’s website.

Around 100 companies in Italy hold B-Corp certification, although Tenute Capaldo Group is one of just a small number of wineries – and it is the only winery in Italy to hold both B-Corp and Equalitas certification (the latter was granted in August 2021).

Achieving B-Corp certification is just the lastest achievement in Tenute Capaldo Group’s sustainability investment plan over the last five years, thought to be worth around €25 million. Other initiatives include becoming a founding member of Co2alizione Italia in May 2021 – an initiative of a small group of leading companies commited to carbon neutrality – and the implementation of increasingly low-impact cultivation methods, developed in partnership with national and international research centres.

Group president, Antonio Capaldo commented that ‘the final objective [is] to establish the company as a positive and regenerative force for the environment and the community.’

The post Feudi di San Gregorio takes another step towards a fully sustainable business model appeared first on Decanter.

Some Châteauneufs are more reliable than others. When I visit the region to taste the new vintage every year, Domaine de la Janasse’s cuvée Vieilles Vignes regularly features among the best.

It’s a particularly dense and concentrated wine when young, and it always strikes me that, even for Châteauneuf, it’s a wine that needs extended ageing to show its best.

I was keen to acquire a more complete understanding of how this cuvée develops, so I visited brother-and-sister team Isabelle and Christophe Sabon at the estate earlier this year to find out.

Between 10 and 20 years of age is typically a sweet spot for opening Châteauneuf-du-Pape, so we opened a full vertical of Vieilles Vignes from 2011 back to 2000 to assess how it ages.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 11 vintages of Domaine de la Janasse’s Vieilles Vignes

See Matt Walls’ tasting notes and scores for 11 vintages of Domaine de la Janasse’s Vieilles Vignes

Wines are listed in vintage order, youngest to oldest

Related content

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019 & 2009: panel tasting results

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020: report and top-scoring wines

12 alternatives to Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The post Walls: Domaine de la Janasse, Vieilles Vignes 2011-2000 vertical appeared first on Decanter.

In 2022, Laithwaite’s sees itself doubling down on sustainability, with the aim of halving its carbon footprint by 2030. It has committed to increase the number of UK-bottled wines in its range to help cut down on CO2 emissions from shipping glass bottles – shipping in bulk in large ‘bags’ drastically reduces the weight of the same volume of wine.

It also allows the process to be overseen directly by Laithwaite’s; a recent audit commissioned from EcoAct – a specialist company advising on sustainability showed that several factors, mostly outside Laithwaite’s direct control, contributed to 95% of the emissions footprint of a bottle of wine. There are also, no doubt, savings to be made by importing in bulk.

Other examples of Laithwaite’s efforts to improve its sustainability credentials include the release of the second wine in its ‘W/O’ range, an organic Lucido (better known as Catarratto) from Sicily. Bottled in ‘wild’ (100% recycled) glass and corked without a plastic capsule, it features a fully biodegradable label made using a single colour printing process on environmentally friendly pulp. Information on the wine is accessed via a QR code.

The wine merchant has also recently listed its first wine packaged in paper, the Redbrook Estate Bacchus. Made from 84% recycled paper with a recyclable plastic pouch, it’s a bit like a mini bag-in-box and, claims Laithwaite’s, has a carbon footprint six times lower than glass.

The buying team has sourced new wines from across the world for 2022, making the most of the ability to travel much more widely than they had been able to in 2020 and 2021. Notable in the range for 2022 are a number of lighter red wines, including the first examples made from Dornfelder, Páis and Xinomavro.

One of the reasons for introducing these new varieties is to cater for what Liz Smith, wine director at Laithwaite’s, identifies as a trend towards lighter styles of reds: ‘Beaujolais in particular has been a big success story of the past few years. But, partly in response to increased prices, we’re now seeing this shift towards other grapes and regions.’

Laithwaite’s wines are predominantly sold online and via wine clubs, but the retailer also has a smattering of stores around the south of the UK, including in London, Beaconsfield, Gloucester, Reading, Banbury and Windsor.

Best Laithwaite’s wine to try this summer:

Related content:

Best buys at Majestic this summer

The Wine Society: top buys

Best wine buys at Waitrose this summer

The post Best Laithwaite's wines to try this summer appeared first on Decanter.

Walking through Château Malromé in Entre-Deux-Mers just before April frost struck the Bordeaux region for the second year in a row, director David Trancart explained how some 80% of the estate’s production was lost to frost and mildew in 2021: ‘It was a challenging vintage’, he stressed. This year’s frost does not seem as devastating (as this article goes to press), because the vegetation cycle was not as advanced for it to have done as much damage, says Marine Chaligné, the estate’s communications director. However, other sources report that many vineyards in Bordeaux will indeed suffer from frost damage this year.

The nights of April 7 and 8 2021 were marked by frosts ‘historic’ in dimension, say Bordeaux University experts Laurence Geny and Axel Marchal in their recent report of last year’s vintage. Readers may recall many dramatic Instagram photos of thousands of candles, lit next to the vines to minimise damage. 2021 posed other hurdles in addition to frost, including mildew, induced by rainfall in May and June, that further cut production overall.

Statistics released by the Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB) in April this year show that the 2021 harvest counted some 3.77 million hectolitres – down nearly one million from an average production vintage (4.7m hectolitres). Overall production dipped below 4 million only two other years since 2010: 3.8m in 2013 and 3.49m in 2017.

But less wine does not mean lower quality. Tasting 2021 dry whites from the humble Bordeaux appellation, one can appreciate how Marchal and Geny describe the vintage as yielding ‘exceptional’ dry white wines. They explain how cool summers – which are not so ideal for reds – are ‘generally conducive’ to obtaining ‘great’ dry white wines, as they ‘guarantee good acidity and preservation of aroma precursors’. And 2021 has proven to be no exception to that rule.

For Marchal and Geny, the Sauvignon Blancs in particular are ‘brilliant’. Despite high levels of malic acid, they are ripe, with a ‘chiselled profile’ and intense aromatic expression. On the other hand, Sémillons have ‘sometimes suffered’, on light soils, from a form of dilution, but on the best terroirs, they are slender, sapid and fragrant.

2021 proves the point that a challenging vintage for red Bordeaux can be more interesting for white. Other such vintages, including 2007 and 2017, come to mind. A comparative tasting, for example, of the dry white of Château d’Arche 2020 (an excellent red wine vintage) and its 2021 counterpart, showed that the latter exuded more vivacity and grip. In short: a better wine. And consumers can find excellent price/quality ratios from Bordeaux AOC wines, including those outlined in the tasting notes featured here.

On Bordeaux AOC white

While white Bordeaux is produced in no less than 12 appellations, from the famous Pessac-Léognan to Entre-Deux-Mers, this article focused on Bordeaux AOC, for which most wines blend the three main authorised grapes: Sauvignon Blanc (43% of plantings), Sémillon (45%) and Muscadelle (5%). Across the 12 appellations for white Bordeaux, 46 million bottles were produced in 2021: 15% less than in 2020. For the appellation of Bordeaux AOC, volumes dropped by 19% compared to 2020.

Increasing production of Bordeaux Rosé

For some readers, Bordeaux Rosé could beg the question: ‘Why’? But more vintners are taking the summer drink seriously, with a concern for locally- made wine. As Didier Galhaud of Château d’Arche in Sauternes remarked: ‘We like to diversify, and that includes home-grown rosés’. Some which were tasted blind for this article revealed good to excellent quality, with attention paid to ripe fruit, freshness and mostly light-bodied fun, even if that did not always correspond with fun labels (don’t judge a book by its cover). Some 1,200 vintners, cooperatives and négociants are making dry Bordeaux rosé these days, which makes up no less than four per cent of total Bordeaux wine production. A great discovery for your next summer visit to the region.

Best buys

 

Crémant de Bordeaux 2021

Vignobles Borderie, Château Les Combes, AOC Crémant de Bordeaux 2021
88
€14.40 Wine Box
The estate has been crafting traditional method sparkling for over 80 years, and the expertise shows. Generous, ocean spray creamy texture with finesse. Citrus fruits and white flower aspects with a lively attack leading to a soft yet lively palate. A hint of brioche. Second fermentation in bottle in Saint-Émilion cellars, where bottles are riddled by hand. Enjoy as a welcome drink or with carpaccio, sushi or a veggie terrine.
Drink 2022-2023 Alcohol 12.5%

Vignobles Arnaud & Marcuzzi, Les Fines de Payre, AOC Crémant de Bordeaux 2021
88
€11 Avenue des Vins
This traditional method sparkling rosé has won several awards in France, and it
is easy to see why. Bright, smooth texture with strawberry and cassis aromas and lively acidity. Impress colleagues at an office party or try with hors d’oeuvres like cured ham and smoked salmon.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Bordeaux Rosé 2021

Domaine Clarence Dillon, Clarendelle, AOC Bordeaux 2021
91
£16.99 Laithwaites
An excellent wine, starting with supple aromas of red berry fruit leading to a palate of verve and depth, with exciting iodine freshness and soft forest strawberry fruit on the smooth finish. Serve confidently on its own or pair with grilled salmon and roasted vegetables. The classiest of rosés.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Vignobles Baylet, La Vie en Rose du Château Landereau, AOC Bordeaux 2021
90
€7.50 Vignobles Baylet
Lovely rosé with ripe fruit and mid palate succulence and body. The ageing on fine lees for two months no doubt contributes to the palate depth. The wine is so approachable and enjoyable. Pair with paella and summer barbecue.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 13%

Château Lauduc, Lauduc Classic, AOC Bordeaux 2021
90
£11 Cambridge Wine Merchants
Canteloupe melon aromas precede a smooth and succulent medium-bodied palate, with iodine freshness. Night harvesting and cool fermentation temperatures ensure vibrancy and energy. Indeed, fun to drink on its own, but try with linguini and clams in a cream sauce with parsley.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Château d’Arche, A de Château d’Arche, AOC Bordeaux 2021
89
€11 La Vinothèque de Bordeaux
Only recently crafting rosé, this estate already shows marked improvement with the 2021 clearly superior to the 2020. Vivid red berry fruit, cassis and strawberry enchant the taster, with plenty of freshness and a certain depth.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Château de La Dauphine, Rosé de la Dauphine, AOC Bordeaux 2021
89
€15 Château Dauphine
Fine gastronomic rosé from this excellent Fronsac estate, which combines subtle spearmint with ripe red berry fruit. The wine has density and weight, while being fresh and easy to drink. Perfect for a summer dinner, such as grilled salmon, seafood kebab or carpaccio. Vegetarians can enjoy with roasted squash risotto.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 13%

Château Renard Mondesir, Château Renard Rosé Rusé, AOC Bordeaux 2021
89
Both smooth and subtle in its richness, this rosé exhibits the best aspects of the 2021 vintage in terms of brightness and vivacity.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 13%

SCEA les 7 Hectares, Château de Lisennes 7 Hectares, AOC Bordeaux 2021
88
Grapefruit and raspberry notes. Fun, frank, and smooth. Juicy mid palate with verve from this certified organic wine. Enjoy with charcuterie or cheeses.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Vignobles Boutinon, Château Hostin Le Roc Cuvée H, AOC Bordeaux 2021
88
€6.20 Vignobles Boutinon
Iodine freshness with a sap-filled mid palate. This hearty rosé would pair well with sausage, charcuterie or margherita pizza. Or serve as a summer party wine.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12%

Vignobles Jaubert, Château Landonnet, AOC Bordeaux 2021
88
€8 Drinks & Co
Ripe fruit and juiciness with no hard edges or drying on the finish. Very pleasurable quaffer for your picnic, or serve with olive tapenade and bread or other hors d’oeuvres. Great value too.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 11.5%

Château Sainte Barbe, Sainte Barbe rosé, AOC Bordeaux 2021
88
Very good inaugural rosé from this estate, which is a member of the Grand Cercle of Bordeaux and is classified as an historic monument in Bordeaux. The mid palate charm and juiciness will easily draw you in.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Bordeaux Blanc 2021

Vignobles Jade, Château La Loubière, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
91
Burgundian bottle with wet stone minerality, lime, lemon zest and Indian Tonic. Jean-Claude Berrouet. many years director at Château Pétrus, and son Jean-François are consultant winemakers. Both organic and biodynamic, the wine exudes impressive length and body with dry extract and structure to gain in complexity in bottle. But the wine is also drinking so beautifully now. One for readers to seek out!
Drink 2022-2024 Alc 12.5%

Château de Camarsac, Blanc de Camarsac, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
90
US$12 Woods Wholesale Wine
Honeysuckle and lemon aromas enchant. Smooth palate with notes of herbal tea and linden. Soft, agreeable wine with impressive subtle density and a long finish. Touch of Muscadelle (5%) lends florality and lift.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12%

Producta Vignobles, Bordeaux Revolution, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
90
€9.35 Drinks & Co
Lemongrass aromas presage a supple wine that can compete with expressive international counterparts. A refined and smooth palate exudes lime zest and iodine freshness on the finish. Try with watercress soup or frogs legs in an emulsion sauce. Good value.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12%

Château La Rame Blanc, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
89
Orange and honeysuckle. The palate has verve with a layered, contoured body and freshness. Seamless balance of structure, opulence and acidity leading on to the medium finish. A great value wine for the summer months.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 13%

Château Panchille, ‘Blanc de Fernand’, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
89
Saffron and lime note, followed by a smooth and pleasant palate and a bright, citrus finish. Try with snails in garlic or a creamy pumpkin soup with cracked pepper.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12%

Earl Todesco Patrick, Château Les Reuilles, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
89
US$15.99 Yiannis Wine Shop
Herbal, verbena and fresh meadow aromas lined by lovely citrus notes. Fruit purity, palate density and finesse, with a medium long finish marked by Indian Tonic freshness. Enjoy with charcuterie and cheeses or, even better, whelk or clams in persillade.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Les 3 Châteaux, Château Roques Mauriac, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
89
US$16.99 Total Wine
Aromatic density with lemon peel but also tropical hints of pineapple, quince and honeysuckle. Robust palate with fine concentration and verve too. A standout wine, easy to match with mushroom risotto, fish in a cream sauce or seared veal with roasted vegetables.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Château Haut-Meyreau, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
89
€9.95 Vignobles Invidia
A fresh bouquet with lemony zestiness and white flower notes. The light body has mid palate sap for concentration (lees stirring lends richness), but no barrel ageing. Pleasing tonicity on the finish. A solid and good value by-the-glass option for friendly Bordeaux. Enjoy with shrimp and cocktail sauce.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12%

Chateau de Seguin, Sauvignon de Seguin, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
88
€4.90 Clic Vin
Juniper and herbal tea, with ripe fruit lifted by freshness on the medium-bodied palate. The bright orange clementine and fresh finish have such great appeal. Try with pork chops in a ginger sauce and or seared scallops.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Vignobles André Lurton, Château Bonnet, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
88
US$13.99 Marketview Liquor
Not to be confused with the Entre-Deux- Mers of the same name, this charming Bordeaux AOC white exudes lemon freshness. Not having gone through malolactic fermentation it shows a lively palate, both balanced and smoothly textured. Nice work from Jacques Lurton of the famous Château La Louvière in Léognan. Try with fish in a cream sauce or pasta with pesto.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Vignobles Geromin, Château l’Oiseau, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
88
Fragrant nose dominated by herbal tea with green apple and a hint of oak. Exuding freshness and smooth texture, the wine is rather subtle. Try with cream of pumkin soup or a fish terrine.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12%

Vignobles Dulon, Château Grand Jean, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
88
€7.49 Les Caves
Subtle, enchanting aromatics of chamomile, pear and lime. The palate displays grip and body, with a vinous nature coming from the majority of Sémillon. Would pair well with grilled chicken or veal in a cream sauce. A great value option too.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Château Doyac, Le Pélican du Château Doyac, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
88
Orange clementine and iodine freshness. Alluring smooth texture, almost creamy, and even if it lacks the verve of a more serious wine, it is tasty and so enjoyable. Aged 50% in amphorae of grès (stone) and 50% in large oak casks.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.8%

Château Reignac, Reignac Blanc, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
88
€4.50 Boutique de Reignac
Clean and crisp with integrated yet present oak notes that lend complexity. This is a fun and easy-going wine that may not have the same depth as the Bordeaux Supérieur more often found in the UK and in the US, but it has an excellent price/quality ratio.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 13%

Famille Ducourt, Château d’Haurets, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
88
€7.42 Vinatis
White flower and bright fruit, this smooth and agreeable wine shows no hard edges and exhibits iodine freshness on the finish. Great for a barbecue or with quiche. Like many other Bordeaux wines, close to organic winemaking with HVE certification. Has earned justifiable high marks in French competitions and offers excellent value.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Château Recougne, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
88
£11.99 Majestic
US$11.99 Martin Wine & Spirits
A top seller in the UK, this ‘fun under the sun’ wine is straightforward and bright, with grapefruit, green apple, honeysuckle and pear aromas and flavours. Ideal with cheeses on a summer picnic.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Vignobles Valpromy-Deffarge, Château Tour de Goupin, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
88
US$12 ShopRite Liquors
Exuding lemon-lime citrus along with bourtree and white flower, this light, unvarnished wine has a tangy finish ideal for opening your summer party or serve with hors d’oeuvres.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Vignobles Barthe, Château La Freynelle, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
88
US$12.95 Shoppers Wines
Creamy texture combines with bright acidity. While not showing the depth and subtlety of some of its counterparts, it shows elegance and a freshness. Would pair with cheese, risotto or butter and herb-baked oysters.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Château Suau, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
88
US$11.99 Stirling Fine Wine
This easily falls into the friendly everyday wine category, with soft notes of honeysuckle and citrus; refreshing and a good match for tapas or shrimp with lemon and olive oil. Drink 2022-2023 Alc 13%

Celliers de Bordeaux Benauge, Château Larroque, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
88
US$15 Saratoga Wine Exchange
Fascinating use of Colombard grape, which lends tart zest. Fine briskness and body, the wine displays marked varietal nature of the Sauvignon Blanc, akin to New Zealand. Great verve in a medium-bodied palate that can stand up to fish and seafood. Don’t confuse with the Saint-Émilion of the same name.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Vignobles Lobre, Château de l’Aubrade, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
87
Ripe apricot and Key lime Pie aromas. The palate combines verve with grip. Try with salmon filet and baked potatoes with sour cream and chives.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Vins Kressmann, Kressmann Monopole, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
87
€7.41 Vinatis
Exuding green apple and lime aromas. Straightforward in its expression of ripe fruit albeit quite herbal too. Try with raw oysters or shrimp. A great value option from one of the oldest Bordeaux brands, launched in 1892 in London, and officially registered in 1897.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12%

Vignobles Comin, Château La Commanderie du Queyret, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
87
Expressive aromas of green apple, pear and apricot prelude a juicy and fun-to-drink white: ideal for by-the-glass selections, as an apéritif or to open a party alongside canapés.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 13%

Château Haut-Rian, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
87
Almost Riesling-like gunflint notes, with fine texture, and appealing light body. Flavourful with fleshy citrus. A pleasant pre-dinner wine.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Vignobles Signe, Château Petit Moulin, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
87
Brisk with lime-lemon citrus notes, this has a quaffing aspect that pleases. Lovely lift and freshness for a great, uncomplicated everyday pour.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12%

Vignobles Medeville, Château Fayau, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
87
White stone fruit, pepper and lemon zest enchant, with a light palate that would work well with Thai food.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Vignobles Vincent, Château Lamothe-Vincent Heritage, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
87
£11.99 The Real Wine Company
Ripe with fleshy grapefruit and candied lemon flavours. Smooth palate and fine texture make this a good match for roast chicken with orange or even pineapple.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12.5%

Denis Dubourdieu Domaines, Château Reynon, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2021
87
£11.50 The Wine Society
A wine with crispy freshness and lemon rind notes. Also shows tropical aspects like quince and mango. Ideal for hors d’oeuvres.
Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12%

Discover more about Bordeaux AOC here

The post White Bordeaux shines in challenging 2021 vintage appeared first on Decanter.

Old vines from Western Australia’s Swan Valley will be protected in the soon-to-be launched Swan Valley Old Vine Charter (OVC).

More than 20 wineries from this historic region, a 30-minute drive from the state capital of Perth, are participating. The programme will see grapevines from 35 to 125 years of age registered and preserved.

Participating wineries include Talijancich Wines, Nikola Estate, John Kosovich Wines, Mandoon Estate and Sandalford Wines. While the vines are predominantly Shiraz, Verdelho, Chenin Blanc, Grenache and Pedro Ximenez, there is no limitation on what varieties can be registered.

Arch Kosovich, John Kosovich Wines. Credit: Frances Andrijich

Winemakers James Talijancich, Arch Kosovich and Damian Hutton are the driving force behind the OVC. They hope it will maintain the Swan Valley’s old vineyards and allow the wines to tell a story that speaks of the region from a winemaking, grape growing and regional perspective.

‘Some of Australia’s oldest continuously producing grapevines are in Swan Valley, including Mandoon Estate’s 125-year-old Verdelho vineyard,’ said Kosovich, winemaker at his family’s John Kosovich Wines.

‘The charter, which has been modelled on an existing system in the Barossa Valley, will provide recognition for our wonderful old vines and the wines produced from these precious fruit parcels,’ he explained. ‘It’s our hope more regions will recognise the importance of their vineyards – and historic vines – and adopt a similar scheme.’

Heritage and regionality

To qualify for OVC recognition, vines need to still produce fruit, and proof of their planting date must be provided. Wines made must be 100% from an OVC vineyard and cannot be blended with fruit from another plot in a different age category.

‘As the second oldest wine region in Australia [after the Hunter Valley in New South Wales], our grapevine heritage is what distinguishes us from other regions around the country,’ said Talijancich, of his family’s Talijancich Wines. ‘These vines are testament to our European settlers who worked the land.’

James Talijancich, Talijancich Wines. Credit: Frances Andrijich

‘Most winemakers prefer to work with fruit from older vines,’ he added. ‘Once a vine reaches 70 years of age, the yields are low yet the fruit retains an incredibly high intensity of flavour and complexity. This is why it is so important to preserve these precious vines.’

Nikola Estate general manager Damian Hutton agreed. ‘It’s vital to tell the story of our regionality. And there’s no greater story to tell than of wines as they age.

‘These vines give us something special to produce each year. If a winery sells, then the grapevines will be preserved and their heritage will be passed on to the new owners, which will help keep vineyards in the ground for future winemakers.’

Related content

Barossa and McLaren Vale Grenache: old vines, new passion

Reviving Rioja’s old-vine heritage

How old is too old? Old vines – ask Decanter

The post Old Vine Charter: Perth's Swan Valley to preserve historic vines appeared first on Decanter.

Throughout its 135 years and numerous owners, the one constant at Napa Valley’s Freemark Abbey has been a focus on classically styled Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Now titled ‘winemaker emeritus’, Ted Edwards joined the estate as assistant winemaker in 1980 and became head winemaker in 1985. He remained at the helm until 2020 when he passed the torch to his hand-picked successor, Texas-born Kristy Melton.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 10 current and older releases from Freemark Abbey

Freemark Abbey: new releases and older vintages

Related content

Au Bon Climat: living on after Jim Clendenen

Winemaker profile: Sam Kaplan

Custom crush wineries: the California scene and wines to try

The post Freemark Abbey: profile and 10 wines from this Napa pioneer appeared first on Decanter.

‘France is world-renowned as a gastronomic centre of excellence, but has more McDonald’s per capita than any other country, and Bandol is world-renowned for its complex and age-worthy reds, but 80% of its production is rosé,’ explains Guillaume Tari of Domaine de la Bégude about the contradictions found in Bandol.

The question over red or rosé is not the only big debate right now. The appellation requirements for the ageing of red wine, the percentage of the principal grapes in white wine, and overall their reputation as vins de garde are all on the table.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 20 Bandol wines worth seeking out

Bandol: 20 top wines worth seeking out

Related content

Domaines Ott: Provence rosé wine royalty

Brad Pitt to reopen Château Miraval recording studio

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019 & 2009: panel tasting results

The post Bandol: regional profile and 20 top wines to try appeared first on Decanter.

Almost exactly 30 years ago, when I was starting out as a wine writer, an editor sent me to a tasting of English wines on the outskirts of London.

I remember a rundown village hall, trestle tables and a line-up of wines that was decidedly patchy. Most were still, not sparkling. A few showed potential; a white blossom whiff, a clean lemon streak. But more of them tasted like bad cider, while others seemed to be watered down, grubby versions of already bland German brands.

I came away disappointed and perplexed. Was England really a suitable place to make wine?

Scroll down to see Suzy Atkins’ pick of English sparkling wines

Fast forward to today and the English wine scene is nothing less than thrilling. Quality has soared, in part due to warmer conditions, but also due to the skills of highly-trained professional winemakers, using the latest equipment, with much greater viticultural understanding and, in places, helped by huge investment.

Although there is quite a buzz around the still wines, sparkling is, of course, now the triumphant and much-festooned leading style. A tasting of fine English fizz in 2022 reveals complexity, balance and finesse to rival sparklers from any other corner of the globe.

It’s still hard to get it right every time in England’s cool climate; in poor vintages like 2012 it can seem impossible. But that hasn’t stopped many talented winemakers from trying and succeeding.

My younger self would be bowled over, amazed to learn that she would become such a lover of English wine and something of a specialist writer on the subject.

Here are 10 reasons why we should all drink English sparkling wine.

Atkins’ pick: 10 English sparkling wines to try

Related articles

Best English rosés for the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee

Plan for major English winery development in Kent blocked

Staycation in style at one of these English vineyards

The post 10 reasons to drink English sparkling wine appeared first on Decanter.

Wind the clock back to the early 1990s and there were only two malt whisky distilleries left in the Lowlands of Scotland. Auchentoshan sat in Clydebank, to the northwest of Glasgow, while Glenkinchie lay beyond Edinburgh in East Lothian.

Then, something magical happened. Having yo-yoed between being open and closed for 200 years, Bladnoch distillery in Galloway returned to production. It was followed by a raft of sites being set up or revived throughout the Borders, the Central Belt, Dumfries & Galloway and Fife.

The story of the Lowlands mirrors the story of distilling’s revival throughout Scotland, with the influence of the craft scene from the US hopping across the pond. An industry dominated by big companies with big brands was suddenly joined by entrepreneurs with new ways of thinking.

What makes the Lowlands so exciting?

Part of that revival story was triggered by the gin renaissance. Suddenly, distilleries could produce a popular white spirit one day and sell it the next, generating income while they waited for their whiskies to mature.

Vodka and even rum followed, with some distilleries concentrating solely on white spirits, while others kept their eyes focused on the ultimate holy grail of single malt. Several bottlers also took the opportunity to create whiskies blended from other distilleries to help bring in cash to finance their own sites.

What makes the Lowland revival so important though is its variety. As well as springing up in more traditional rural locations, the new wave of distilleries has also seen single malt plants returning to Scotland’s cities. These include Clydeside and Glasgow at one end of the M8 motorway, and Crabbie’s Bonnington, Holyrood and Port of Leith’s vertical distillery in Edinburgh.

Where are the Lowlands?

Draw an imaginary line along the Firth of Tay on Scotland’s east coast, which separates Dundee to the north from Fife to the south. Then extend that line southwest until you reach the Firth of Clyde (to the northwest of Glasgow). Now you’ve got the split between the Highlands and the Lowlands.

That whisky line almost follows the real-life Highland boundary fault line. This geographic step-change in the rock types lying below Scotland’s surface begins further up the east coast at Stonehaven. Arbikie, Glengoyne and Loch Lomond distilleries sit in the Lowlands geographically, yet in the Highlands under whisky regulations.

Edinburgh and Glasgow now both boast single malt distilleries once more, to complement their massive grain plants. However the Kingdom of Fife – located on the opposite bank of the Firth of Forth from the Scottish capital – is perhaps the most exciting part of the Lowlands. It is home to Aberargie, Daftmill, Eden Mill, Kingsbarns, InchDairnie and Lindores Abbey, where the first record of whisky originated in 1494.

Whisky barrel at Glenkinchie Distillery

What are the most famous distilleries in the Lowlands?

Given its proximity to Edinburgh, Glenkinchie has been a stalwart on the tourist trail for generations. Meanwhile Auchentoshan is famous for triple – rather than double – distilling its Scotch. Further south, Annandale and Bladnoch have gathered fans, while Lochlea released its first malt this spring. In years to come, look out for whiskies from The Borders, Falkirk and Raer’s Jackton distilleries.

The Lowlands is also home to some of the most famous silent or ghost distilleries. Bottles of Littlemill and Rosebank still appear at auction or from specialists, with prices to match their rarity. In an unusual twist, one of those closed sites, Rosebank, is now in the process of reopening.

While Scotland’s five whisky regions cover single malts, the Lowlands also sits at the heart of grain whisky production. Diageo’s massive Cameronbridge distillery in Fife not only makes components for Bell’s and Johnnie Walker but also Gordon’s gin and Smirnoff vodka, while Edinburgh houses the North British and Glasgow is home to Strathclyde. Girvan continues the long tradition of having malt distilleries hidden away inside grain plants by hosting Ailsa Bay.

What does Lowland whisky taste like?

Flick through the pages of most coffee table whisky books and they’ll tell you that Lowland malts are light and floral, making them ideal aperitifs. That urban myth is more down to marketing than history.

It’s true that Glenkinchie and, to some extent, Auchentoshan can be categorised as lighter and smoother. But in Victorian times most whisky from the Lowlands would have been peated – especially on the west coast – as peat would have been burned to malt the barley.

Nowadays, the diversity of distilleries is reflected in the diversity of styles. They range from peated malts from Annandale and Glasgow through to fruitier examples in Fife. Just as in the Highlands, it’s unlikely that a single style will emerge from among the Lowlands’ new wave of innovative distilleries.

Which Lowland whiskies should I try?

Peter Ranscombe recommends four classic Lowland bottles to seek out

Auchentoshan American Oak Lowland Single Malt Scotch

Auchentoshen’s entry-level, triple-distilled whisky spends its entire life in first-fill bourbon casks. A sweet nose, full of vanilla and coconut, with notes of walnut and biscuit landing on the palate. There’s a deliciously oily smoothness to the texture. Alcohol 40%

Bladnoch Alinta Lowland Single Malt Scotch

A peated Scotch, aged in a mix of bourbon and Pedro Ximénez Sherry casks. That combination produces a fascinating mix of sweet and smoky, stretching from lemon curd and roast meat on the nose through to tangy barbecue sauce on the tongue. Alc 47%

Glenkinchie 12-year-old Lowland Single Malt Scotch

A true benchmark Lowland single malt. Aromatic peach, apricot, spun sugar and runny honey lead into richer heather honey, fudge and vanilla on the palate. A much deeper flavour profile than its light colour suggests. Alc 43%

Kingsbarns Distillery Reserve Lowland Single Malt Scotch

Made using barley grown in Fife, this Scotch was matured in a combination of 60% first-fill ex-bourbon barrels and 40% shaved, toasted and re-charred (STR) red wine barriques. Fruity banana and pineapple notes shimmer amid its richer honey and vanilla depth. Alc 61.8%

Related articles

Exploring whisky series: Inside Islay

Exploring whisky series: Inside Speyside

Understanding whisky styles

The post Exploring Whisky Series: Inside the Lowlands appeared first on Decanter.

It went through a rocky period as part of the Naked Wines group some years ago, but UK high street wine specialist Majestic is firmly back on track and thriving, loyal customers will be glad to know. Following its sale to US-based private equity firm Fortress Investment Group in December 2019, John Colley – a loyal Majestic customer himself – stepped into the CEO role and set about restoring the retailer to its former glory.

Range overhaul

The range review in 2020 – which saw a massive 70% of the range replaced and 350 new lines introduced – saw a renewed focus on interesting parcels at the lower-premium end, some strong additions to the own-label Definition range, and some classic wines that had been lost brought back on to the shelves.

As well as the range review, Majestic has launched a new website, reopened the popular tasting counters at some stores where they had disappeared, and continues to expand its bricks and mortar operation. Today it has 202 stores, with another 20 in the pipeline including openings in Haywards Heath and Godalming in the southeast, and Chippenham in Wiltshire. It has also launched a new quarterly subscription service, Wine Club by Majestic, featuring wines not available online or in store, and a new customer loyalty app is planned.

National Wine Shop of the Year

Majestic performed extremely well at the Decanter Retailer Awards 2021 – winning the National Wine Retailer of the Year category, as well as New Zealand Specialist Retailer of the Year and USA Specialist Retailer of the Year. It was runner-up in the Australia Specialist and South & Regional France Specialist categories.

Driving to Majestic may not be as convenient as picking up your wine with your weekly grocery shop, but the strength of the range – and the famously knowledgable staff – make it well worth the trip. And of course you can always order online.

The ability to buy just a single bottle if you wish (the six-bottle minimum rule was axed back in 2015) offers flexibility, but it makes sense to buy at least six bottles as the ‘mix six’ prices are sometimes considerably lower.

Save when you subscribe to Decanter

The best Majestic wines tasted by Decanter

The first 25 wines listed were tasted at Majestic’s Spring/Summer 2022 press tasting, held in London in May. The remaining wines were tasted at previous tastings but are still available in the vintage listed, though there may also be more recent vintages in store.

Don’t forget that all prices listed below are single-bottle prices. There are savings to be made, sometimes significant, when you buy a minimum of six bottles (any mix).

The post Best buys at Majestic this summer appeared first on Decanter.

The focus of the symposium, unsurprisingly, was on the challenges posed by climate change. As if to illustrate the immediacy of the threat, the symposium took place during a heatwave, with temperatures of over 40°C  in Bordeaux and extreme weather events recorded across the coountry: parts of southwest France saw violent storms and winds of 112kph on the evening of 20 June, while vineyards across the Médoc and St-Emilion were damaged by hailstones ‘the size of golfballs’.

As Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier warned, ‘so far global warming has been good for Bordeaux: the last seven years have seen five great vintages. But the worst is ahead, and we will have to learn to put our foot on the brake.’ Nathalie Ollat, research director at the National Research Institute for Agriculture, Food and the Environment, said that extreme climatic events were a growing concern, with numerous frosts in recent years affecting yields.

There was also concern over the effects of global warming in lowering acidity and raising alcohol. As Gilles Brianceau, director of Inno’vin, put it, ‘losing profitability is not a threat for 2030; it already exists. Half of wine-growers tell us that their biggest challenge is to produce lighter wines with less alcohol that are easy to drink – and that’s very difficult with climate change.’

Rethink

Marta Mendonça of the Porto Protocol noted that ‘typicity evolves with climate. Wine regions are going to have to reconsider the way they have done things for centuries.’ One much-debated solution has been introducing non-traditional grape varieties that are better adapted to a warmer climate. In 2021, seven new varieties, including Touriga Nacional and Alvarinho, more familiar in Portugal, were authorised for use in Bordeaux wine.

As Bordeaux expert Jane Anson observed, wine production has always adapted. We tend to assume that Cabernet Sauvignon was always in Bordeaux, but it did not become popular until the 18th century. ‘If I was planting vines today,’ said Ollat, ‘I would diversify varieties and avoid planting too much Merlot. A hundred years ago, there was not much Merlot in Bordeaux.’

Left to right: Tamlyn Currin, Katie Jackson, Ilai Englard, Rachel Kolbe Semhoun, Jessica Villat, Marc Reynal. Credit: Philippe Labeguerie

Jérémy Cukierman MW, director of Kedge Wine School, remained resolutely optimistic. ‘The situation is urgent, but we must focus on the incredible resilience of people in the wine sector. All over the world, wine-growers are finding ways of adapting to climate change. In Roussillon and Swartland, both very dry regions, producers are succeeding in producing elegant wines by harvesting earlier.’

Ollat agreed: ’We must be optimistic, because the sector has always evolved and ways of making and selling wine have changed.’ Mendonça noted that many producers in California have changed their practices since the devastating wildfires there and stressed the importance of sharing information. ‘We have to think as a community to share existing solutions, whether locally or with the other side of the world.’

Innovation

An inspiring discussion on agro-ecology highlighted innovations that can help wine producers take more sustainable approaches in the vineyard. Katie Jackson, co-founder of International Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA), set out initiatives by Jackson Family Wine in California to understand carbon hotspots in the vineyard and better manage limited groundwater sources. Jessica Villat spoke eloquently of her research at Harvard University on the huge potential of regenerative viticulture practices to sequester carbon in the soil.

By identifying efficiency gains along the supply chain, artificial intelligence can reduce wine producers’ carbon footprints. Ilai Englard described some of the forecasting, simulation and automation tools developed by his Israeli company, Trellis, to ‘empower wine-growers to make better decisions’.

According to Rachel Kolbe Semhoun, head of sustainability at InVivo, digitalisation can help to create more resilient viticultural ecosystems, with healthier grapes and soils. Dual-use ‘agrivoltaics’ – integrating photovoltaic solar panels into agricultural land – is enabling winegrowers to increase shade in their vineyards, improving soil humidity and biodiversity, while at the same time generating income from solar energy production.

Speakers agreed that, as the impact of climate change increases, wine drinkers across the world are becoming more focused on sustainability and health. ‘Wine-growers are increasingly trying to make “honest” wines that are unadulterated expressions of where they come from,’ said Pierre Mansour of the Wine Society. ‘And people are eating less meat too, so they want wines that go well with vegetarian or vegan food.’

The need for transparency was a recurrent theme of the symposium. ‘With social media, you have to say what you do and do what you say,’ noted Bernard. ‘Nature will be the key word of the future, and the younger generation are ready for that.’ Mansour felt producers would come under more and more pressure from consumers to be transparent and prove that wines which claim to be sustainable truly are.

Left to right: Lucy Britner, Lulie Halstead, Rob Malin, Damien Barton Sartorius, James Law. Credit: Philippe Labeguerie

Packaging

Consumer perceptions of sustainability will also affect wine packaging. As Damien Barton Sartorius of Barton Family Wines stressed, it is a complex issue: ‘you get organic producers who brag about what they do in the vineyard while bottling their wines in heavy glass bottles’.

According to Lulie Halstead of Wine Intelligence, 59% of consumers continue to see glass as a sustainable form of packaging, because they believe glass bottles are recycled, whereas only 37% see bag-in-box as sustainable, although it has a much lower carbon footprint.

Barton and James Law of the East London Liquor Company described bottle reuse schemes they are championing in an effort to promote a more sustainable circular economy. Law felt that governments should impose heavier taxes on carbon-intensive packaging like glass than on more sustainable forms of packaging. ‘We need to think about radical approaches.’

Ecommerce

The impact on wine of the pandemic and ecommerce was also discussed at length. Felicity Carter, executive editor of Pix, noted that as borders closed, many wine producers struggled to sell their wines, but that it was hard for small wine producers to get noticed online. Pam Dillon, CEO of Preferabli, felt that the Covid crisis had accelerated a process that was already underway. In her view, the challenge is now to create digital tools – like Preferabli – to match up wine producers and consumers from all over the world.

A discussion between Thomas Gomart, director of the French Institute of International Relations, and Vinexposium chairman Christophe Navarre, highlighted the impact of geopolitical events on the wine and spirits sector. Like many other economic activities, wine and spirits are facing strong headwinds with conflict in Europe, the most serious commodity shock for decades, and a struggle for ‘control of global capitalism’.

Chinese tariffs imposed on Australian wine as a result of geopolitical tensions reportedly led to a 97% fall in Australia’s wine exports to China in 2021, while Russia ran roughshod over protected French Protected Designations of Origin (PDOs) by appropriating the terms ‘Champagne’ and ‘Cognac’ for Russian products. Navarre, however, remained optimistic that ‘strong brands will survive’.

Time for action

Overall, the key message of the symposium was of the need to act on climate change, without letting the best be the enemy of the good. As Mendonça put it, ‘this is about action, not perfection.’ There was also much optimism about the sector’s ability to ‘do things differently’. Looking forward to the world of wine and spirits in 2030, Navarre felt that ‘positive pressure from the younger generation will enable us to build even better products for the future.’

Related articles

Vinexpo Paris to host wine and climate change talk

Rethinking the wine bottle for the future

New group promotes regenerative viticulture in climate battle

The post Bordeaux ‘Act for Change’ symposium appeared first on Decanter.

The authorities have charged Casey Alexander, who lives in the UK, with conspiracy to commit wire fraud. He is accused of running three companies – Windsor Jones, Charles Winn and Vintage Whisky Casks – which obtained the phone numbers of elderly Americans and cold-called them.

Investigators said the companies used ‘aggressive and deceptive tactics’ to convince people to wire them money, promising them huge returns. Windsor Jones’ website, which lists the company’s address as Wilmington, Delaware, promises ‘the acquisition and sale of the world’s most illustrious and pleasurable Bordeaux investment grade fine wine.’

It lists Bordeaux First Growths and includes an embedded video featuring Master Sommelier Ronan Sayburn discussing the best vintages. He said the site used the video without his permission, and he was unaware of it until contacted by the press.

One victim, an 89-year-old from Ohio, wired more than $300,000 to invest in rare sweet wines and to pay for a purported storage locker in France, according to the court records.

Another victim sent $85,000 after being promised a potential return of up to 40% by selling the wines on in China.

The returns, however, were not forthcoming. When victims tried to retrieve their money, they were ignored or given a string of excuses. The 89-year-old Ohioan reported the matter to local police, who alerted the FBI. Investigators began to connect his case to several similar frauds across the country. They discovered cease and desist letters in Texas, Washington and California against the companies, which were apparently ignored.

The FBI set up a sting, using a man in Ohio who had been charged in an unrelated securities fraud case and convinced him to pretend to be a potential investor in exchange for a lesser sentence. The man met with company employees, and the FBI ended up arresting one of them.

The employee, who was not named in the affidavit, said he accepted the job without conducting much research into the company. He was instructed to cold-call people and promise them huge returns on their investments. He tipped the FBI off that Alexander would be travelling from England to Ohio, and agents arrested him on 14 June.

Court records show that Alexander was released after posting a $50,000 bond, but the conditions of his release prohibit him from contacting ‘any person who is or may be a victim.’

Related articles

British duo charged with duping US wine investors in $99m Ponzi scheme

Wine fraud suit brought by three DOs in Southern Catalunya

Police seize counterfeit Penfolds wines in China

The post Americans swindled in $13m wine investment scam appeared first on Decanter.

Pomerol is a paradox. Its famous plateau terroir is hallowed; it produces (in Petrus, Le Pin and Château Lafleur) three of the most expensive wines in the world; demand is so high and quantities so small that it is very difficult to source back vintages; and its mere mention sends the pulses of Bordeaux aficionados racing.

Scroll down for Colin Hay’s three-step Pomerol selection

Yet the landscape of the appellation itself appears flat and uninspiring (a stark contrast to the calcareous contours of its immediate neighbour St-Emilion), there are no grand châteaux here, no visitor centres, no hotels, no cavistes and scarcely a restaurant.

It would be utterly forgettable were it not for the quality of its wines, and it belies entirely the adage that beautiful wines come only from beautiful places.

Understanding Pomerol: Colin Hay’s 12 wine picks

Related articles

St-Emilion: Worthy candidates for classification promotion

Bordeaux 2021 wines: Our en primeur verdict

St-Emilion & Pomerol: Six big name side projects worth knowing

The post Understanding Pomerol at three price points appeared first on Decanter.

Marco Iaccarino is a judge at the 2022 Decanter World Wine Awards.

Marco Iaccarino

Marco Iaccarino has worked in the world of beverage and hospitality for over 25 years, starting out as a bartender and has been a professional sommelier for over 15 years.

Whilst studying in Milan, he worked as a sommelier during the opening of the Armani Hotel, developing its wine programme.

In 2014, Marco moved to London and worked for the Edition hotel with Jason Atherton. Next he was responsible for the wine offering at the opening of the Park Chinois. He then had the opportunity to work for Angela Hartnett at Murano and Marcus Wareing at the Gilbert Scott.

Now he is Head of Wine at the Berkeley hotel.

Marco joined Decanter World Wine Awards as a judge for the first time in 2021.

He loves travelling, especially to wine regions, and playing sport with his little son.

The post DWWA judge profile: Marco Iaccarino appeared first on Decanter.

Beatrice Bessi is a judge at the 2022 Decanter World Wine Awards.

The post DWWA judge profile: Beatrice Bessi appeared first on Decanter.

Anecdotal evidence suggests that sales decreased significantly compared to the previous year, with volume and value sales down by as much as 60% in a few cases.

In some instances, sales of usually bankable wines crashed to almost zero, according to the merchants that Liv-Ex polled.

‘Yet again, many buyers and collectors have had to ask what purpose the time-consuming event serves when it delivers such pitiful revenue, and who precisely it is for when it offers little compelling value,’ said Liv-Ex in a damning report released yesterday, titled ‘Bordeaux 2021: Predictable Chaos’.

The name stems from a quote given by one disgruntled merchant when asked to sum up the 2021 en primeur campaign.

The pace of the campaign was disrupted by trade fairs and bank holidays and several estates released before they were expected to, while others did not release wines by the deadlines they had previously given.

According to the report, ‘little consideration was given to the wider macroeconomic conditions and the impact this would have on buying appetites’ at a time when inflation is rampant and the economic outlook is uncertain.

Liv-Ex had initially hailed the 2021 vintage as an opportunity to ‘energise’ the en primeur market. It was deemed to be a vintage of reasonable quality, comparable to 2014, which could have been offered at accessible prices. Liv-Ex reported that the average market price of the 2014s is now £1,646 for a 12-bottle case, which is 20.9% lower than the £2,080 average release price of the 2021s.

There were some bright spots among the 2021 Bordeaux en primeur campaign, however, including the performances of the First Growths, along with Lafleur, Calon Ségur, Les Carmes Haut-Brion and Cheval Blanc. However, merchants still complained that most of the releases were down by at least 20% in volume compared to the previous year.

In the same week that the Bordeaux en primeur campaign ended, Burgundy recorded its highest ever weekly share in the secondary market. In the week to 16 June 2022, it seized a 38.3% market share, compared to just 34.1% for Bordeaux.

‘The 2021 campaign has done little to address the identity crisis of en primeur – indeed it might possibly have worsened it,’ concluded the Liv-Ex report. ‘This is a vintage that was destined for the dining tables, not decades in cellars. Now it is destined for discounts. While the châteaux suffered the triple whammy of lower yields, higher costs of production and a darkening economic outlook, they cannot continue to offer middle-of-the-road vintages at prices scarcely distinguishable from those it declares great and expect the international trade and their collectors to buy.

‘Maintaining pricing levels and restricting stock may be regarded as part of a process of preserving brand equity for those on the inside looking out. But for those on the outside looking in, it appears nonsensical, self-defeating and, ultimately, a reason to stay away.’

Related articles

Bordeaux 2021 wines: Our en primeur verdict

Haut-Brion 2021 released: latest en primeur reaction

Reaction as Mouton and Margaux 2021 released en primeur

The post Bordeaux 2021 en primeur campaign delivered ‘predictable chaos’ and ‘pitiful revenues’ appeared first on Decanter.