Knowledge, self-awareness and a strong sense of identity are all characters that define true pioneers. These provide the foundational strength and motivation to go one step further, driving innovation and creativity. This can certainly be said of Juvé & Camps, a company built upon more than two centuries of experience in Penedès, and whose name is synonym with Cava Gran Reserva.

Historical roots

The origins of Juvé & Camps date back to 1796, when Joan Juvé Mir first invested in vineyards in the iconic Catalonian region of Penedès. His son, Antoni Juvé Escaiola, would live through the phylloxera plague and drive efforts to replant and revive winemaking in the region. The passion and entrepreneurial spirit of these two patriarchs paved the way for Joan Juvé Baqués, Antoni’s son, to found the family’s winery. In 1921, Joan released the first sparkling wine produced in the cellar of the home where he lived with his wife Teresa Camps Ferrer. And thus Juvé & Camps was born.

The couple’s sons joined the company in the 1940s and drove its growth, with the building of a dedicated facility in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia and the investment of state-of-the-art production equipment. The company focused on the creation of the best traditional method sparkling wines, with extended ageing sur lattes, that would best express the grapes and terroir of Penedès. There was also, always, a particular focus on viticultural standards – the history of Juvé & Camps started in the vineyard and this is still where the primary quality and character of the wines is fostered. Today, Juvé & Camps has 271 hectares under vine, all of which are farmed organically and harvested by hand.

Such quest for quality, from root to glass, was never seen through the point of view of inaccessible exclusivity. Quality, balance, purity and drive are seen, rather, as necessary attributes of wines to accompany life’s simple pleasures and special moments. Companions that help to create shared memories and etch the stories of who we are.

Perpetual renewal

Juvé & Camps remains dynamic and young at heart, animated by the same inquisitive, demanding and daring spirit that informed its inception. There’s a constant questioning and eagerness to improve, seen in ever-more demanding criteria in both vineyard and cellar.

To keep this spirit well alive, there is a natural generational transition already happening: third generation Joan Juvé Santacana is the company’s president, while fourth generation Meritxell Juvé Vaello is the CEO or, quite simply, Juvé & Camps’ ‘bodeguera’. Having earning an MBA, Meritxell is ready to lead the company, as it enters its second century of history, with the same exacting standards and pursuit of balance.

Meritxell Juvé Vaello

A symbolic wine

The wine that best epitomises the philosophy of Juvé & Camps is the company’s flagship Reserva de la Familia, a Gran Reserva Brut Nature made exclusively from free-run juice and aged for an average of 36 months in bottle prior to degorgement. A blend of the iconic trio of local grapes – Macabeo, Xarel·lo and Parellada – the cuvée embodies the sense of place, commitment to quality and laid back sophistication that shape the house’s philosophy and style. Values that are, nevertheless, reflected across the range of Juvé & Camps, producer of 35% of all Cavas in the Gran Reserva category, including wines with almost nine years of ageing sur lattes.

While celebrating 100 years of experience and commitment, Juvé & Camps looks at the future with an eye on the past, bridging tradition and innovation. The company’s passionate team know that the key to excellence are the tools given by accumulated knowledge, passion and craftsmanship. Today, as one hundred years ago, Juvé & Camps is an invitation to face life’s challenges and opportunities with a sense of determination, class and joy. Salut!

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In the UK wine calendar, wine merchants concentrate on selling certain regions at the same time every year. For Burgundy, it’s January; Bordeaux starts in April. Others, like the Rhône, aren’t quite so specific, but merchants do seem to agree that autumn is the right time to turn their attention to this part of France.

Following a number of Rhône-focused tastings, and with my full report on the 2021s coming out soon, I have tasted and rated wines that are available to buy in the UK now and my recommendations are below.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 39 great Rhône wines to buy in the UK

Matt Walls’ top Rhône wines to buy in the UK right now:

Related content:

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For the first time, the Decanter Wine Club is allowing non-members to snap up a box of their holiday wines, while stocks last.

*Available in the US only.

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The eponymous winery started by her and her former husband Dan, Duckhorn Vineyards, was founded in 1976. The brand would be among the first to feature Merlot as more than merely a blending grape. Duckhorn helped ignite America’s love for the grape.

Born in New York State, Margaret travelled much throughout her life, growing up in a military family. Her collegiate studies would lead her to Germany where she would discover a love for wine. Upon returning to the US she would complete three degrees from UC San Francisco and become a public health nurse for the city of Berkeley, California.

Looking for an escape from life in the big city, Margaret and Dan left the Bay Area for Napa in the mid-1970s. Upon arriving in Napa Valley, Margaret balanced her role as a school nurse with helping get Duckhorn Vineyards off the ground in 1976, filing the permits and paperwork necessary.

From the outset Margaret would spend her days sorting fruit and assisting Duckhorn’s first winemaker, Tom Rinaldi. Over time, Duckhorn Vineyards became one of Napa’s founding names, driven by Margaret’s commitment to the industry and her steadfast belief in Napa Valley.

As the industry grew, her commitment grew alongside it. Margaret was a founding member of Women for WineSense, a past board member of the American Institute of Wine & Food, past president of the Napa Valley Vintners Association, and past chairman of the board of California Wine Institute.

Margaret viewed Napa as her home, a place that she had chosen to raise a family, and so stewardship and commitment to the future of Napa Valley were real and felt. Napa Valley was home for her, her family and her community.

Margaret is survived by her three children – Kellie, John and David – her seven grandchildren and two siblings.

In lieu of flowers, the family suggests donations to the Napa Valley Community Foundation.

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One of 273 Master Sommeliers worldwide currently, Evan Goldstein has written four books, co-authored several more, and is a contributing editor to The Oxford Companion to Wine. In September 2022, Goldstein was recruited by the San Francisco Giants, his hometown pro baseball team, becoming the first ever Master Sommelier to work for a US professional sports organisation.

Sadly, this rich, honeyed grape variety is disappearing from the vineyards of Hermitage and other appellations in the northern Rhône where it once held court. But Roussanne is a grape you should know. Amazingly, even though it comes across as rich and exotic, with an apparent lack of structure, it can hold that pose for years… without botox!

Roussanne’s roots lie in the central Rhône valley. Precisely when it originated is not known, but the grape’s more recent history is well documented. In the mid-20th century, many of the plantings in France became infected with fanleaf virus and were replaced with the less interesting but more resilient and consistent Marsanne.

True Roussanne was believed to have arrived in California in the 1980s, but the original source of California Roussanne turned out to be Viognier. It’s evident that even in today’s world of modern genetic testing and carefully propagated cuttings, one mistake in sourcing a varietal type can have far-reaching consequences. Not until the 1990s were real cuttings of Roussanne planted.

Labour of love

Roussanne is regarded as uneconomical to produce because it is finicky about growing conditions: it isn’t a large cropper and is susceptible to rot and mildew. And to top it off, the berries ripen late, making rot an even bigger risk.

In contrast to the challenge presented in the vineyard, Roussanne is flexible and forgiving in the cellar. It can be successfully fermented in large or small oak, stainless steel or concrete. It can be harvested at lower sugars but still have ample body, or can be left to increase in ripeness without losing all its acidity. It can sing solo or play well with its relatives (Marsanne, Rolle, Viognier, etc). Finally, Roussanne ages very well due to its unusual combination of richness, minerality and balancing acidity; the best wines can be enjoyed up to 15 years or more after bottling.

When Roussanne sings with food, that song often reminds me of Viognier. As with Viognier, its food-friendliness is underrated. The best wines are rich, silky and balanced, with a panoply of tropical and ripe stone fruit flavours. I love Roussanne with exotic dishes, from north African tagines to pork marinated in cumin and ginger.

If the flavours in your dish are less exuberant, use textures that will pick up on the richer texture of the wine. Thick and creamy soups, slow-cooked root vegetables (like parsnips and carrots), rich cream- and butter-infused pastas and grains (risotto, polenta), oily nuts (especially macadamias and cashews), and richer preparations of fish, shellfish and white meats – all are great tablemates for Roussanne and Roussanne-based blends.

Discover Roussanne: Goldstein’s two to try

Château de Campuget, 1753 Roussanne Sans Sulfites, Rhône 2021 (campuget.com) From third-generation Campuget winemaker Franck-Lin Dalle, this is bottled as an IGP (by French AP law, to be labelled as Costières de Nîmes wines must be blends). It demonstrates what pure Roussanne can deliver in a natural environment – native yeast ferment, no added sulphur, and fully expressive deliciousness of the variety.

Tablas Creek, Roussanne, Paso Robles, California 2020 (tablascreek.com) This vintage is coincidentally the winery’s 20th varietal bottling of its most significant white grape. Jason Haas’ heroic commitment to Rhône grapes in California’s Central Coast is admirable and leading. This Roussanne is characteristic, with balanced weight, texture and aromatic complexity.

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Lidl’s revolving Wine Tour selection, which changes every couple of months focusing on a different theme each time, is a popular draw for shoppers – and none more so than the Christmas Wine Tour, eagerly anticipated for its mix of sparkling wine and Champagnes, whites, reds, sweet and fortified wines. This year’s selection is on sale now, and covers all bases for the festive season.

The buyers for the German-owned supermarket, which established itself in the UK in 1994, do a great job of sourcing small quantities of interesting and well-priced wines for the Wine Tour line-up. Between this and the core range, it offers a comprehensive selection of Old and New World wines across a range of styles.

Christmas Wine Tour

Christmas wouldn’t be the same without a glass of bubbly, and Lidl has many options to suit all budgets, from the wallet-friendly Arestel Cava Rosado (£5.75) and Rosé Prosecco (£6.49) – which would both make great party options – via the New Zealand blanc de blanc Duck Point (£9.99), to the Comte de Senneval Champagnes, available as a non-vintage rosé or 2014 vintage. Even these Champagnes come in at just under £20 a bottle, so great value for money for a fizz with the word ‘Champagne’ on the label.

Moving on to dry whites, there aren’t many in the Christmas Wine Tour, but among the highlights is the Gedeon Birtok Zöld Veltelini (£6.99) – a Gruner Veltliner, but a Hungarian version. Crisp and fresh, and with modest alcohol, it would make a great alternative to Sauvignon Blanc, and would be a good match for a shellfish or smoked salmon starter.

The reds on offer this Christmas are mainly from the Old World, with Italy, France and Spain all featured. The Château de Landiras 2019 Graves at £11.99 is a fantastic buy for those who like a claret on the Christmas table, this one open and approachable but with depth and complexity too. Other wines not to miss include the Opinor Touriga Nacional (£7.99) from Swartland, a South African interpretation of the Portuguese grape variety; and the deeply fruity, deep purple and lighter in style Monsaraz Reserva (£8.49) from Alentejo in Portugal, made from native Portuguese grape varieties.

To round off the Christmas meal, Lidl has again sourced a competitively priced Canadian ice wine made from the Vidal grape by Pillitteri Estates, but our favourite sweet option this year was the Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos (£12.99) from Hungary’s famous sweet wine region. It would make a perfect match for Christmas pudding, as would the Armilar 10 Year Old Tawny Port (£8.99).

Core range

Don’t forget the core range this Christmas, which offers some fantastic bargains. Among the sparkling wines, The Crémant de Loire (£8.49) offers great value, made in the same way as Champagne but from the Chenin Blanc grape. The other two wines I’d pick out – classic styles for Christmas drinking – are the Chablis (£9.99), great value at under a tenner, and the Corte Alle Mura Chianti Riserva, which offers great typicity for just £5.99.

These Lidl Christmas wines can sell out fast – especially the sweet wines – so don’t hang around if you’re planning to turn to Lidl for your Christmas drinking this year. Read on for our tasting notes and scores.

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The best Lidl wines this Christmas:

Lidl introduces six ‘Wine Tour’ updates to its core range every year. The wines are only available for a short period of time, while stocks last. The Christmas Wine Tour selection went on sale on Thursday 24 November – every wine in the Tour goes into every store. The wines listed below are a mix of highlights from the Christmas Wine Tour press tasting in October 2022, and wines that are part of Lidl’s core range, tasted previously and still available.

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Structure, balance, harmony and elegance – intrinsic qualities of an object’s aesthetic value at the core of the campaign now launched by the Prosecco DOC Consortium. Innovation and sophistication seal the match between one of the world’s most famous wine denominations and three icons of Italian design.

Soggetto Design

Named ‘Soggetto Design’ (Design Subject), is a collaboration between the Prosecco DOC Consortium and the ADI Design Museum. It tells a story of craftsmanship and beauty through a curated selection of symbolic objects from Italian furniture: the Cubo radio by Brionvega (designed by Marco Zanuso y Richard Sapper), the Atollo lamp by Oluce (Vico Magistretti) and the Fjord armchair by Moroso (Patricia Urquiola).

These aesthetic symbols define a plot to showcase the multiplicity of disciplines and techniques that come together to bring the creations of Italian design to life. In turn, these embody the philosophy of the Italian art of living, which surprises for its simple essence of beauty and concrete solutions. Hence the campaign motto: ‘The Italian sparkling art of living’.

The principle is graphically expressed in ‘Soggetto Design’ through the ‘magazine cover’ concept, stylistically recalling the cover of a magazine in which the three iconic design pieces stand out as co-stars alongside Prosecco DOC. The visual image traces the dialogue between the historical architecture of the museum buildings and the modern shapes and innovative materials of the three objects, surrounded by a timeless space, suspended between past and present.

Genius and imagination

Stefano Zanette, president of the Prosecco DOC Consortium, explains that ‘unlike previous campaigns where we focused on the territory – as in the ‘Dreamland’ project – or on the wine itself – as in the ‘Drink Pink’ launch campaign – in this instance the main goal is to place Prosecco in the realm of  the consumer’s imagination. We have therefore placed Italian genius at the center of the communication, which, in this case, is expressed by the selected ‘subjects of design’ as a demonstration and ‘supporting evidence’ of the creative power Made in Italy .’

This creative power defines the history, talent and typically Italian style of Genio. Such is the highest expression of the aesthetic and sensorial research that the Prosecco DOC Consortium employs every day, to tell the story of the uniqueness of its wines and of the wonderful territory, between Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia, that yields them.

In Italy, the marriage of wine and art in Italy is expressed in ever-more interesting ways, and through many languages, that the Consortium has grasped and made its own. By uniting the art of making wine with art in the highest possible sense, Prosecco tells the true and whole Italian way of life, a source of inspiration throughout the world.

Simplicity and beauty are the paradigms behind the luxury of the Italian lifestyle, without artifice, but embodying a sophisticated ideal. The very same simple sophistication that can be enjoyed in a glass of Prosecco.

All photos courtesy of Elis Gjorretaj

Discover more about Prosecco DOC

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The bottle’s impenetrable black, with nothing to distract the attention from its contents, proclaims ‘Val d’Oca Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry’.  It is part of a new collection of four exceptional vintage cuvées, made in the verdant hills of the Valdobbiadene. Complex, structured and aromatically expressive, these DOCG Prosecco wines represent the essence of affordable luxury and are Val d’Oca’s greatest achievement to date.

Founded in 1952, Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene is an association of passionate winegrowers situated in the territory of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, north of Venice. For decades, this close-knit community has relied on a combination of technical skill and superior terroir to make exceptional Prosecco wines; local growers have identified over 40 Rive or individual climats in the zone. This allows them to fashion Val d’Oca, their flagship brand of elegant, sophisticated and creamy sparkling wines that delve into the heart of Valdobbiadene’s spectacular landscape, offering an inimitable sense of place. As the core of Val d’Oca’s range, the Classic Cuvées are unique expressions of the brand’s winemaking style and terroir-led approach: a magical union of grape, soil and landscape.

Val d’Oca Classic Cuvées

Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry Millesimato
Open and expressive, this Extra Dry blend is a wine defined by its orchard fruit and gentle creaminess. Aromas of yellow apple, pear and citrus lead into a soft palate, with lovely freshness and acidity balancing out the intense fruit.  Perfect as an aperitif or paired with shellfish.

Prosecco Superiore Brut Millesimato
A straw-yellow colour  gives way to beautiful aromas of green apple and pear drop, with a touch of lime cordial. This Brut Prosecco DOCG breathes energy with savoury notes on the finish, supported by mineral acidity. Enjoy it with risotto con funghi for a real gourmet treat.

Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Brut Millesimato
A sophisticated wine with low dosage, this Extra Brut represents Prosecco Superiore at its very best. Pungent and expressive, it explodes on the mid-palate with flavours of yellow fruit, citrus, apricot and honeysuckle. Supported by a textbook acid line, this deserves a subtle gastronomic pairing – sushi would be ideal.

Prosecco Doc Rosé Millesimato Brut
A delicate pink hue sets the tone for this exceptional Prosecco, with enticing aromas of wild roses, violets and red berries. On the palate it is fresh and delicate, with sensations that recall pink grapefruit and green apple, with a touch of acacia on the finish. Enjoy it with fresh scallops or as the perfect sundowner.

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AOP Chablis 2021

Top-scoring AOP Chablis 2021

The below wines all scored 91 points or above. 

If we have awarded ‘Top value’ to an as-yet unpriced wine, it is based on our predicted pricing.

Chablis 2021 homepage

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Founded in 1993 in Valdobbiadene by Enrico Martellozzo, Bellussi has since established itself not only as one of the leading producers of Prosecco DOCG, but also as a passionate supporter of performance and visual arts. Both the quality-driven wine production and the close relationships with iconic artistic institutions express the values at the core of the company’s philosophy: elegance, talent and sophistication.

A family’s passion

Enrico would not have built his project without the close support of his family – both the precedent and succeeding generations. The help and guidance of his father Paolo Martellozzo were invaluable, as was the support of his wife Renata Rami. Today, Enrico’s two children help steer the company’s helm: Francesca, his first-born, is responsible for the international commercial relationships; Giovanni joined the cellar team after completing his Oenology degree.

Winemaking is overseen by oenologist Francesco Adami, who helped relaunch and scale Bellussi’s production with the investment in a new winery. The state-of-the-art facility places technology at the service of terroir expression, underscoring the quality of the carefully selected fruit.

This cross-generational effort and commitment to Bellussi are what makes it such a special project, infused with wonder and energy. Bellussi is a young dynamic company that builds upon a precious heritage and leading technical knowledge, to propel itself into the future.

Since its inception on the hills of Prosecco, the Bellussi dream has expanded to Montalcino, where the Martellozzo family acquired a second estate, Belpoggio, and to South Tyrol, through a collaboration with local growers.

One project, multiple expressions

Bellussi’s wine range is organised along three axis. The historical Bellussi collection, sparkling wines made at the crossroads of tradition and innovation, is what best represents the origins of the company and its founding ethos. It includes the iconic cuvées Prosecco Superiore Docg Millesimato Brut, Prosecco Superiore Docg Extra Dry and the new Prosecco DOC Rosé.

The Belcanto collection was created in 1996 when Enrico and Renata Martellozzo, motivated by their love for opera and classical singing, decided to create a sponsorship cuvée for the Concorso Internazionale per Cantanti Lirici Toti Dal Monte. The Belcanto line up, which has grown and now includes all of Bellussi’s premium Proseccos, is, since 2018, the official wine offering of the iconic Teatro La Fenice in Venice.

Last but not least, Lido 1932 is the latest addition to the Bellussi family. The range comprises four white wines produced in Valle Isarco, South Tyrol. The name evokes, and is a tribute to, the Biennale del Cinema di Venezia: Lido is where the event takes place each year; 1932 is the date of its first edition, making it the longest-running cinema festival in the world.

The art of life

The Martellozzo family has always seen the hills of Valdobbiadene as a privileged place, both for the quality grapes it produces, and for its unique beauty – recognised, in 2020, with its inclusion in UNESCO’s world heritage register. Art can be understood as the sublimation of natural beauty and the Martellozzos have always been keen to link the worlds of nature – through their wines – and artistic creation, by supporting iconic cultural events and institutions.

Indeed, Bellussi, Belcanto e Lido 1932 are themselves expressions of the highest Venetian culture. This explains why they naturally claim a place on Venice’s most renowned stages, among the world’s most talented artists and performers.

In addition to the Teatro La Fenice, Bellussi is the official wine supplier of La Biennale di Venezia and, more specifically, its International Art Exhibition and the Venice International Film Festival. In addition to the evocative Lido wines, guests at the gala dinners of both events have a chance to taste Belpoggio Rosso di Montalcino DOC, produced by the Martellozzos at their Tuscany estate, and BellusSì, the producer’s tête de cuvée (a blanc de noirs produced exclusively from hand-harvested Pinot Noir grapes).

If wine is an expression of terroir, it is also a way to convey a way of being an artist of one’s life. Each bottle of Bellussi is an invitation to take centre stage.

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Chablis 2021 was a vintage where challenging weather conditions has had a drastic effect on volumes. At the same time, global demand for the wines of Burgundy has continued to grow, resulting in significant upward price pressures. Despite much higher volumes in 2022, it is unlikely to see prices for Chablis falling.

However, Chablis still offers great value for money across all of the different quality tiers.

Top-value Chablis 2021 wines:

If we have awarded ‘Top value’ to an as-yet unpriced wine, it is based on our predicted pricing.

Chablis 2021 homepage

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‘Chablis 2021 is a vintage full of vibrant acidity, one which shows a particularly strong terroir influence, and has produced wines which will reward careful cellaring.’

What a difference a year makes. When I visited Chablis in October 2021, many of the winemakers I spoke to were gloomy in the knowledge that although nature had given Chablis producers a high-quality and decent-quantity vintage in 2020, this had been followed by one of the most difficult for many years.

But in my most recent visit, the worried expressions had been replaced with smiles as winemakers proudly showed the fruits of their labours – a Chablis vintage which is the first since 2017 to fully demonstrate the ‘classical’ elements that make this wine so distinctive.

Scroll down to see Andy Howard MW’s top-scoring Chablis 2021 wines

Anticipated release: Howard’s top-scoring Chablis 2021

The following 37 wines all scored 94 points and above. 

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Petit Chablis 2021

Top-scoring Petit Chablis 2021

The wines below all scored 90 points or above. 

Chablis 2021 homepage

The post Petit Chablis 2021: top-scoring wines appeared first on Decanter.

Premier Cru Chablis 2021

Top-scoring Premier Cru Chablis 2021

The wines below all scored 93 points and above.

Chablis 2021 homepage

The post Premier Cru Chablis 2021: top-scoring wines appeared first on Decanter.

Grand Cru Chablis

Top-scoring Grand Cru Chablis 2021

Chablis 2021 homepage

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Rising from the Adriatic coast to the eastern slopes of the Apennine mountains, Marche is a place where different elements meet, to shape a diverse and complex landscape.

The sea’s turquoise waters and the snow-peaked mountains are testament to these opposing natural forces that conspire to create one of Italy’s most fascinating regions. Marche has a surprising and filigreed diversity, with different terroirs, mesoclimates and indigenous grapes, translated into a rich winemaking tradition. Unlike its western neighbours, the region is home to multiple varieties and wine styles, which have evolved through centuries of trade and exchange with the many cultures that crossed the Mediterranean.

At the heart of Italy, the region occupies a strategic and symbolic place in the country’s history and soul – not merely reflected in its wine and gastronomic heritage but also, and fundamentally, in the lives and spirits of the people of Marche.

Sinuous roads serpentine through the hills, dotted with old mediaeval castles, Renaissance villas and picturesque villages. Combed by the precise lines of vinerows and plowed fields, the hills rise gently to the Apennines, where it is possible to ski while overlooking the Adriatic coast. Adventurous hikers are rewarded with fantastic vistas and stops at historical landmarks, while beach lovers enjoy the sea’s soft touch and the whisper of the eastern winds. All this is Marche, with its relaxed sophistication and unpretentious beauty.

A noble ambassador

The Istituto Marchigiano di Tutela Vini (IMT) is a leading ‘conzorzio of conzorzios’ – an umbrella institution that gathers representatives of 16 of Marche’s appelations (12 DOCs and 4 DOCGs). With a total of 556 member companies, the IMT is a unique organisation of its kind, in which the region’s multiple terroirs come together to promote not just the wine but also the culture, traditions, gastronomic heritage and landscape of Marche. The IMT represents 7,500 hectares of vineyards (45% of the regional total) across the provinces Ancona, Macerata, Pesaro-Urbina and Fermo, that produce 89% of Marche’s bottled wine.

Two of the IMT’s flagship appellations are Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC and Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG, which have long served as ambassadors of the values, terroirs and traditions that define the Marche and, more specifically, the work developed by the IMT.

Hedonistic vocation

The land of Castelli di Jesi is a dramatic natural amphitheatre open to the Adriatic and kissed by its gentle, cleansing breezes. It rises from the sea level to the pre-Apennine elevations of Cupramontana and Apiro, at 550 metres. The etymology of Cupramontana is itself a reflection of the value of these lands: Cupra was a fertility goddess of pre-Roman settlers; ‘montana’ is an obvious reference to the mountainous landscape, important both from a natural and defensive point of view. The zone is formed by 25 villages, with Jesi as its epicentre, with 24 fortifications (borghi) that tower over the area as testimony of the region’s economic and strategic importance since immemorial times. These borghi indeed define the perimeter of the historic ‘Classico’ production zone of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi.

Verdicchio evolved and adapted to this particular terroir, where Mediterranean and Continental influences engage in a beautiful dance that yields wines of great character, evocative of their place of origin. Differences in aspect and altitude produce nuanced differences, harnessed by winemakers to produce a range of profiles and styles, from fresh sparkling wines to luscious passitos. The dry, mineral-driven still wines are, however, the calling card of both appellations, and those who best express the character of Verdicchio and its affinity with the terroir of Castelli di Jesi.

Richer soils and more constant temperatures, moderated by sea winds, are key to the zesty depth of the coastal expressions. These fresh wines, perfect for easy, everyday drinking, show a pure expression of Verdicchio, with the subtle green hues that give the grape its name and the characteristic aromas of lime zest, mandarine and yellow orchard fruit. Further inland and at higher altitudes, on the other hand, hotter days and cooler nights prolong the ripening season, allowing the grapes to develop a wider range of aromas while retaining a vibrant acidity. These are key to the more complex iterations of Verdicchio, often aged for extended periods (and always for a minimum of 18 months for Riserva), showcasing the potential for complexity and the age-worthiness this variety can deliver.

True to their home, and to the deep hedonistic traditions of Marche, Verdicchio wines are particularly suited to the pleasures of the table – made to be enjoyed with food and friends. Their saline backbone and textural persistence are an invitation to enjoy grilled fish, a seafood platter or a very traditional brodetto marchigiano, a local seafood casserole-like specialty. But the persistent and lingering honeyed fruit notes of the best Verdicchios can also accompany white meats, creamy pastas, game or roasted vegetables.

Investing in the future

Aware of the singular value of its multifaceted landscape and of the biodiversity it harbours, the IMT have long committed to viticulture and winemaking practices that respect the environment and save resources. In 2020 alone, the surface area of organic vineyards grew by 6%, to a total of 6,323 hectares, thus making up 5% of the Italian total. Marche has a particularly high percentage of organic certified vineyards (35.6%), double than the Italian average. While producing 7.2% of the country’s organic wine, Marche has affirmed itself as a sustainability hub at the core of Italy. This determined approach to the future has been reflected in a deed to create a single organic district, signed with the aim of defining the largest European area dedicated to sustainable practices.

IMT’s producers know that their responsibility is, ultimately, to interpret and preserve a unique natural, cultural and historical heritage. A landscape of contrasts, that bridges the past and the future, the mountain and the sea, the soft summer breezes and the harsh mountain gusts. All these conspire to produce wines with character that are an invitation to enjoy and discover the many faces of Marche in each glass.

Discover more about the wines of Marche and The Istituto Marchigiano di Tutela Vini

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When it comes to holidays, you usually have to choose your camp. Sun and beach or lush vineyard landscapes? But Crete blurs the dichotomy. This ray-drenched, breeze-tickled Greek isle, hovering above the north of Africa, has the lot.

Sands lapped by warm blue surf, and hills striped in vines. Lazy lounger days under reliable blue skies and calm nights sipping wine made just down the road. And, a winery with rooms. Boutari’s Scalani Hills, just southeast of the island’s gateway city Heraklion.

In comparison to the Greek Cycladic island of Santorini – which made its name internationally with indigenous variety Assyrtiko – the wines of Crete fly somewhat under the radar. (In fact, Boutari, founded in Naoussa in 1879, has had a Santorini winery since the 1980s.)

But there is serious vinous history on Crete. One of the world’s oldest grape presses, dating to about 1,600BC, was unearthed at Minoan complex Vathypetro – just a 15-minute drive from Scalani Hills.

These days, island producers such as Alexakis, Stilianou and Michalakis are making eclectic wines from white grapes such as Vilana and Thrapsathiri, and red ones like Mandilaria. Among the established names, Boutari blends Greek favourites with well-known international varietals such as Chardonnay and Syrah.

Sleep among the vines

Of all the wineries with plots in the Archanes region near Heraklion, Boutari’s Scalani Hills outpost has an enticing USP. It boasts a clutch of charming, contemporary rooms. Three suites open to prime views over 7ha of knobbly old olive trees and vines.

The two-person suites are named after star local grape varieties: Liatiko, Malvasia and Kotsifali (a particular Archanes specialty). Set in a centuries-old former cottage, they are dressed in soothing neutral decor.

A private terrace is your setting for devouring a breakfast of Cretan favourites (think sticky grape jams and moreish must biscuits). Plus there are as many Boutari wines as you care to drink. That is, if you haven’t already had your fill sipping through flights in the winery’s glass-lined tasting area.

Kotsifali, the two-storey maisonette, has a particularly wow-factor fireplace set under its soaring white wood-panelled ceiling. While cosy Liatiko looks out over a shady pergola. Ideally, you’d come as a crew of six, and take all three suites for the ultimate, private Greek vinous hideaway.

This isn’t a sprawling resort, so you shouldn’t expect loads of amenities. For that, the beachfront hotels of Crete’s north coast have more to offer. Rather, you’re here to bask in the rural tranquillity of it all. Kick back with a book while draining a bottle of easy-drinking, cherried Kotsifali and Mantilaria red. When bellies rumble, tuck into platters of dolmades, nutty Cretan graviera cheese and estate-grown olives.

Out and about

There is sightseeing, too. The ancient ruined Palace of Knossos – the mythical home of the half-man, half-bull Minotaur – is less than 10km away. There are hiking trails up soaring Mount Juktas and the haunting Minoan cemetery at Phourni. Heraklion, the capital of Crete, is there if you fancy seeking out an urban buzz.

But you may just want to hang ultra-local and explore the surrounding Archanes wine region, with its aromatic reds hewn from limey-clay soil. Meanwhile the neighbouring village of Peza, cooled by sea breezes, has high altitudes and delicate white wines ready to discover.

And of course – as we’ve said, thanks to the magic of Crete – the island’s nearest beaches are just 15 minutes away. So after you’ve exhausted tasting options in the surrounding area, you can simply flop on golden sands at a secret cove. And feel smug for getting two holidays in one.

For more information visit scalanihills.net

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French national appellation authority (INAO) representative Alexis Sannier told decanter.com that a committee had ‘validated’ in September their ‘admissibility as premier cru climats and commissioned a group of experts to determine their delimitation’. Official recognition for 2024 ‘seems realistic’, he said.

The request for the four climats – Les Mûres in Pouilly-Loché and Les Quarts, Les Longeays, and Les Pétaux in Pouilly-Vinzelles, which account for about one-third of 84 hectares from the two appellations – was filed in 2010, along with 22 Pouilly-Fuissé climats that were designated premier cru in 2020, representing 194 hectares (24% of Pouilly-Fuissé).

Les Mûres, about 9.5 hectares, has limestone soils. The 14 hectares of Les Quarts have limestone and quartz on an east-facing slope, while about eight hectares of Les Longeays have clay rich soils. Three hectares of Les Pétaux have stony soils (hectare figures courtesy of Jean-Philippe Bret).

Two steps remain before the promotion can be official, said Sannier:

– Defining exact delimitation, likely early next year
– Finalising production conditions (yields, harvesting and ageing conditions, etc).

Production specifications will probably match those of the Pouilly-Fuissé premiers crus, according to Jean-Philippe Bret, of Domaine de la Soufrandière in Pouilly-Vinzelles. For example, weed killers will be banned, ‘which is excellent and totally coherent with environmental concerns,’ he said. ‘The INAO made it clear to us that manual harvesting would be required,’ he added.

Recognition is ‘overdue because Burgundians have long known the excellence of these climats,’ said François Labet, President of the Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne. ‘Mâcon offers the best deals for Burgundy wines, showing that not all quality Burgundy is expensive,’ he added.

Indeed, ‘painfully high’ Côte d’Or prices, said wine consultant Robin Kick MW, ‘have made it challenging for many deep-rooted Burgundy drinkers to continue buying what they have long loved, and now they have to look further afield’.

For Jasper Morris MW, author of the encyclopaedic Inside Burgundy, buyers should look no further than the ‘so many exciting wines’ from Mâcon: ‘Wouldn’t it be nice if Mâcon had as much attention lavished on it by sommeliers and consumers as Chablis does?’

Some soon-to-be premiers crus sampled at a tasting organised ahead of the Hospices de Beaune sale last Sunday reflected wines of crisp brightness and wet stone complexity, easily transcending the image of mass market Mâcon.

Merchants recently report increasing sales. For example, sales statistics from the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) for the first eight months of this year show that Mâcon sales in the UK had risen by over 16% by volume compared to the same period last year.

‘We do notice increasing demand for Mâcon wines, remarked Willem Schiks, Burgundy expert for the massive French wine company Grands Chais de France. ‘Increasing premier cru climats will only help to drive more demand.’

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South Africa’s Hemel-en-Aarde Valley near the coastal town of Hermanus in the Western Cape has become synonymous for high-quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In this rugged valley, just a few miles from the ocean, are some of the country’s most exciting and well-known producers.

Located in the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley appellation is Restless River, named after the Onrus River which splits the valley in two. Here, Craig and Anne Wessels farm Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but also Cabernet Sauvignon, a rare grape in these parts and one which stands them out from the other producers in the region.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for six Restless River wines to try

Restless River: six wines to seek out

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A delegation of wine producers from Victoria’s King Valley met with members of the Australian parliament in Canberra to reinforce their campaign to maintain access to the Prosecco name.

Their visit follows fresh talks between Australia and the EU on a possible free trade deal, which may impact who gets to use the term Prosecco for sparkling wines in the Australian market.

A spokesperson for Australia’s Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade told the Sydney Morning Herald that EU negotiators had wanted to add Prosecco to a list of Geographical Indications (GIs) protected under a pre-existing wine agreement between the two parties.

Prosecco from a defined part northern Italy is a protected GI in the EU, and Italy’s Prosecco DOC Consorzio has also secured trademark rights to the name in several other countries.

It’s a long-running issue for Australian winemakers, who have highlighted that Prosecco existed as a grape variety name prior to Italy creating the Prosecco DOC zone in 2009 and subsequently gaining GI status. The new zone adopted the grape variety name ‘Glera’, a Friulian synonym.

‘It is important to protect access to the name Prosecco as when we planted our vineyards in the late 1990s and early 2000s here in Australia, the grape variety we planted was Prosecco,’ said Natalie Pizzini, of family-owned Pizzini Wines in Victoria’s King Valley.

‘Australian grape and wine producers have invested many millions of dollars in the grape variety and our production is now worth A$200m in annual sales domestically,’ she told Decanter, after visiting parliament this week. Rebranding would require millions of dollars of further investment, she said.

The European Commission reported significant progress in discussions on GIs in general after the latest round of face-to-face trade talks with Australian officials in October. ‘Positions on solutions for prior use conflicts came closer,’ it said, without giving specific details.

‘We know that it is a contentious issue,’ said Pizzini. ‘We can only hope that once negotiations are complete that we all end up with a deal we are happy with.’

She added, ‘We are cautiously optimistic about our ability to continue with the use of the name Prosecco but until the deal is done, we will be championing our cause.’

Italy’s Prosecco DOC Consorzio has said protecting trademark rights is a central mission, and has previously cited the DOC’s strong reputation with consumers.

It recently celebrated protected status in New Zealand, following the country’s trade deal with the EU, as well as trademark registration in China.

Alessandra Zuccato, responsible for Consorzio trademark protection activities, said of the New Zealand deal in August, ‘This protection is particularly significant, given the fact that a country so distant from us recognises that we are a Denomination of Origin and it inhibits, after five years since the implementation of this agreement, the “Australian Prosecco” trading, which sees New Zealand as its number one destination in terms of export.’

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