A volcanic eruption in the Canary Islands has resulted in burned vines, affecting harvest and production on the Spanish island of La Palma.

Federico Luis Simon Rodriguez, winemaker and co-owner at Tamanca winery and restaurant, had to flee his home and winery in the municipality of El Paso, in the wake of the lava flow and ash resulting from the volcano eruption, which has damaged 320 buildings and homes since Sunday.

‘We’re in a state of shock. Federico had to leave his home. The restaurant is closed,’ Marta Simon Rodriguez, sister-in law of Federico Luis Simon Rodriguez, told Decanter.

Adalberto Martin, chairman of La Palma DO’s wine regulatory board, said Tamanca winery had no electricity running, with La Palma authorities having cut electricity supply in affected areas as a safety precaution.

Tamanca feared that it won’t be able to carry out cold fermentation, he told Decanter.

The lava flow, which is as much as 12m high, now covers 154ha of land, the Canary Islands Volcanology Institute and Copernicus, Europe’s Space Agency said on Wednesday.

Sixty of La Palma’s 871ha of vineyards have been damaged by the lava flow and ash, according to agricultural organisation Coag-Canaries.

Winemaker Victoria Torres Pecis, who told Decanter she had discontinued her harvest on Monday, said the closure of ash-covered roads was causing logistical issues for producers. She said she had more than 2ha of grapes left to pick.

Martin, meanwhile, added that while vines had been burnt, most of the vineyards ‘remained intact’.

However, the volcano’s eruption comes after a heatwave in mid-August that destroyed between 80 and 90% of Malvasia grapes.

‘In recent years we’ve had milder winters, so the heatwave destroyed grapes grown on vines that were already stressed,’ Martin said. He added that it had also damaged vines on the southern slopes of Tenerife, La Palma’s sister island.

Faced with frequent eruptions of Sicily’s Etna, which erupted on Tuesday (21 September) for the 51st time this year, Federico Lombardo di Monte Lato, chief operating officer at Firriato Winery, said the Etna DOC wine board was planning to conduct research into how ash can affect the efficiency of photosynthesis during the phenolic development stages of leaves and grapes, as well as protecting them from sunburn.

Guilia Monteleone, owner of the Monteleone winery, whose vineyards are located on Etna’s northern slopes, said: ‘There was a huge explosion. It was scary, and bigger and louder than usual, but not dangerous.’

The post La Palma volcano causes trouble for wine producers appeared first on Decanter.

The received wisdom is that Pinot Noir is a capricious grape to grow. Despite the difficulties, however, it has settled in quite comfortably in Oregon.

There are stunning wines being produced in this corner of the Pacific Northwest. As Véronique Drouhin puts it: ‘There aren’t many places on earth where Pinot Noir grows well. Oregon is absolutely one of the few where the delicate grape variety expresses itself in such a refined way.’

Scroll down for Charles Curtis MW’s pick of the best Oregon Pinot Noirs or click here for his top Oregon Chardonnay buys

Given its somewhat temperamental nature, site is everything.

Oregon Pinot Noir: Charles Curtis MW’s pick of the top wines to buy

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Many of the factors that make Franciacorta special are already known. The climate, being in a region that claims to be ‘pre-Alpine’, is fiercely continental but has two mitigating factors: Lake Iseo to the north and Monte Orfano to the south. The proximity of the lake has a huge mitigating effect on temperatures in both summer and winter.

Evidence of this lies in Franciacorta’s typically Mediterranean vegetation, which includes both wild and naturalised plant species along with those that are easy to cultivate, such as the olive tree.

In the growing period for the vines (April to October) the average rainfall is 500-600 mm, approximately two thirds of the annual total.

The Franciacorta area is triangular in shape, with an apex in the north that touches the southern shores of Lake Iseo.

Within this triangular space, we can quite clearly make out the morainic amphitheatre formed during the Ice Age, thanks to a large glacier coming from Val Camonica, which divided into two branches immediately after the basin of the lake, with a small one to the east and a much larger and more important one to the west.

On the northwest side lies Paratico and Capriolo with their higher altitudes.

The first glacial branch from this side includes Clusane, Colombaro, Nigoline, Torbiato, Erbusco, Adro, Bornato, Monterotondo, Provaglio and also Passirano.

The Eastside includes Monticelli, Ome, and Rodengo, while Gussago and Cellatica, with their southern exposition, are part of a different glacial configuration.

No less important is Monte Orfano, which shelters Franciacorta from the humidity of the Padana valley.

Monte Orfano has limestone soils, quite different from the morainic origin of the rest of Franciacorta. Here the style of wine is tighter and chalkier.

The morainic origin of the other parts of the region is equally crucial. Morainic soils mean that pH values are not as high as in Champagne and acidity is almost half of the level obtainable in the Champagne region.

This means that sparkling wines in Franciacorta are made with a focus on extracting the purest expression possible from the grapes, without an oxidative style.

Soils in the region are rich in sand and silt and typically lacking in clay, often with considerable thickness and high permeability.

Abundant stones of different shapes, types and colours are scattered everywhere, and for centuries they have been used for constructing villas, farmhouses and ‘Broli’, the characteristic stone walls that surround houses and vineyards.

One of the basic characteristics of Franciacorta’s moraine-originating soils is an enormous wealth of added minerals, which are different to those derived only from the rocks found there, and form the basis for the area’s high-quality viticulture.

Franciacorta wines to try:

Wines tasted and rated by Decanter contributor Aldo Fiordelli

Arici, Millesime Pas Dosé, 2015 12.5%

Colline della Stella winery is in the extreme east of Franciacorta. Here in Gussago, on old terraced vineyards planted on chalky soil, the talented Andrea Arici produces some of the tightest and most mineral pas dosé sparkling wines in Franciacorta. Bright straw colour in the glass with pinprick bubbles, focused salted lemon and sugared almond, with wax and hints of petrol on the nose. Zesty in acidity and lightly tannic on a rich toasted finish. A wine built to last, with long persistent bubbles. 91

Barone Pizzini, Animante Extrabrut, NV 12%

Barone Pizzini’s vineyards are located in the northwest heartland of Franciacorta. The grapes are harvested in Provaglio D’Iseo, Passirano, Cortefranca and Capriolo. The latter stands out for its northern position and its altitude. Animate was the first Franciacorta to be blended with Erbamat, the late-maturing grape rediscovered in the region. The final blend is Chardonnay 77%, Pinot Nero 17%, Pinot Bianco 3%, and Erbamat 3%. Elegant citrus and alcohol nose, hints of apricot and acacia honey give way to fresh green apple and a mineral finish. The attack is crisp, with a firm persistent mousse, fresh on the palate and well-balanced at the end with a tight-knit texture. Will evolve with age in the bottle. 90

Montenisa Antinori, Brut Cuvée Royale, NV 12.5%

Picked in Erbusco, Villa Maggi and Borgo Calino, this Chardonnay-based wine comes from the heart of Franciacorta and is part of the Antinori stable. Milky notes dominate the nose, completed by hazelnut, lemon peel and yoghurt. Zesty acidity is finely grained with lemon flavour expressing an incredibly long mousse with a toasty finish and lemon curd flavour. 90

Faccoli, Rosé Brut, NV 12.5%

This estate is based on Monte Orfano, the southernmost hill of Franciacorta, and compared to other villages within the region, it’s higher in altitude with limestone soil . Faccoli is famously the first to start the harvest every year. This rosé is made with the saignée method. Bright onion-skin colour, classic profile with restrained strawberry fruit and candied strawberries, smoky woodland and mouth-filling chalky minerality. Creamy mousse and silky finish with good body. 92

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The post Franciacorta: understanding the territory appeared first on Decanter.

Sotheby’s said France will be its fourth ‘international hub’ for wine and spirits auctions, alongside New York, London and Hong Kong.

Regular auctions will be hosted from offices in Bordeaux and Beaune in Burgundy, said the group, which has already taken over responsibility for the annual Hospices de Beaune sale.

It said the move comes amid strong global demand from collectors, with Sotheby’s’ wine and spirits auction sales reaching $58m (£42.4m) in the first half of 2021. Sales were $92m for the whole of 2020.

Several other auction houses have reported good demand from fine wine and rare spirits lovers this year.

Jamie Ritchie, worldwide head of Sotheby’s wine, said the move into France is a key initiative.

‘We anticipate France becoming one of our most important markets, providing sellers in Continental Europe with the greatest access to the global market, and buyers from all around the world will have more ability to buy rare bottles,’ he said.

‘More than 85% of the value of the wines Sotheby’s sells come from France, so this is long overdue.’

Burgundy wines accounted for 41% of Sotheby’s wine and spirits sales across auction and retail in 2020, while Bordeaux made up 26%, according to the group’s 2020 market report.

Sotheby’s has appointed Amayès Aouli as head of auction sales for Continental Europe, and to oversee the growth of its France operations. A passionate wine collector, Aouli previously spent 10 years as executive director at JP Morgan Asset Management in France.

Separately, Sotheby’s announced that Burgundy expert Jasper Morris MW will work with the team as a consultant for the 161^st Hospices de Beaune auction on 21 November.

The group said it planned to host its inaugural spirits auction from France in December. After that, ‘plans are in place for a full roster of wine and spirits sales in 2022, to be announced in due course’, it said.

Last week, Sotheby’s said it would auction wines sourced direct from the cellars of Bordeaux’s Châteaux Canon and Rauzan-Ségla, both owned by Chanel, at a London-based sale in October.

The auction will feature vintages dating back to 1917, and bottle sizes will range from 75cl to ‘melchior’ – 18 litres.

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Liquid Icons has unveiled a unique set of 73 auction lots in The Golden Vines Fine Wine, Rare Spirit & Experience Charity Auction.

Open from tomorrow (23 September) and closing 7 October, the online auction will be available as an eCatalogue with embedded WPA technology to allow for bidding globally.

Each auction lot will feature large formats or rarities, as well as a ‘money-can’t-buy’ experiences from many of the world’s top fine wine estates and spirit distilleries, said Liquid Icons.

Proceeds will go to the Gerard Basset Foundation to fund diversity and inclusion wine education programmes globally, including The Taylor’s Port Golden Vines Diversity Scholarships, with the Foundation expecting to raise over £1m from the auction.

A total of 23 institutional and community groups from around the world have submitted funding requests to be considered for grants from the Foundation.

‘We are honoured and humbled by the enormous enthusiasm and generosity of so many top fine wine estates and spirit distilleries in support of the Foundation’s work,’ said Lewis Chester DipWSET of Liquid Icons and Trustee of the Foundation.

‘The industry clearly recognises the issues around diversity and inclusion and the need to radically tackle them through the Foundation’s global wine education programmes.’

Fine wine and spirit lovers will be able to bid on unique bottling formats, often signed by the owner or head winemaker, while taking their family, friends, colleagues or clients on VIP tours, tastings, fine wine or spirit lunches or dinners, often while staying at wineries or distilleries from across five continents.

Highlights include Liber Pater donating a Melchior (18L) of the world’s most expensive red wine on release, according to Liquid Icons, along with a tour, tasting and lunch with Loic Pasquet.

Meanwhile, Cheval Blanc is opening its doors to a party of 10 guests to stay at the Château while enjoying a fine wine dinner with its head winemaker, Pierre-Olivier Clouet, along with a jeroboam of Cheval Blanc 2006.

The post Liquid Icons unveils 73 auction lots in charity auction appeared first on Decanter.

In the world of sparkling wine, Cava flies under the radar. Its image is less glamorous than France’s Champagne or Italy’s Franciacorta. Meanwhile Prosecco has cornered the market for fun, budget bubbles.

However, much like French crémant, Cava has much to offer fans of sparkling wine. For a start, in terms of winemaking it has more in common with classics like Champagne in that it is made in the traditional method with secondary fermentation in the bottle, as opposed to the tank fermentation used in Prosecco.

Secondly, Cava is produced in a range of styles that will suit everyone. From crisp and fresh younger wines to rosés and creamy, complex vintage wines.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for 12 best Cavas under £25

Cava: the facts

Catalonia in northwest Spain produces the majority of Cava seen on shelves. However it is the winemaking process that receives the Cava DO (Denomination of Origin), instead of a specific region.

So while 95% of all Cava production is focused in Catalonia, there are seven other provinces in Spain where it can be produced, including Aragón, Extremadura, Rioja, Navarra and Valencia.

A range of grapes can be used to produce Cava, including several international varieties such as Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. However three Catalan grapes provide the backbone of most Cava production: Macabeu, Parellada and Xarel·lo.

Together these grapes have come to define the signature Cava taste profile. Macabeu give the wines their fresh fruitiness; Parellada contributes aroma and acidity; while Xarel·lo lends structure.

While most Cavas are blends, there has been a definite trend towards producing single-varietal wines. Cavas made exclusively from Xarel·lo are with seeking out and can age for decades.

From value to luxury

Cava has earned a reputation for making some of the world’s best-value traditional method sparkling wines – as the bottles selected below prove. However, the DO’s best producers have also turned their attention to making top expressions that can compete with the best sparkling wines in the world.

To that end, the Consejo Regulador del Cava introduced a new category into Cava production back in 2016. Cava de Paraje Calificado (or Cava de Paratge in Catalan) are wines made exclusively with grapes from a ‘singular parcel’ according to strict production rules. These rules include a maximum yield of 48 hl/ha, a minimum of 36 months’ ageing (versus nine months for a standard Cava, 15 months for a reserva and 30 months for a gran reserva).

Look out for the name Cava de Paraje Calificado on bottle labels if you want to trade up to a more premium Cava.

Meanwhile, take advantage of the many fantastic traditional sparkling wines produced under the Cava DO, starting with the bottles below.

Best Cava under £25:

Wines shown in score order

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The post Best Cava sparkling wines under £25: 12 to try appeared first on Decanter.

Salon is a mythic wine, coveted by collectors around the world. Production is small considering its renown, and since its inception in 1905, the house has produced only one Champagne, a vintage wine crafted only in the greatest years.

There will have been just 43 releases when the 2012 is launched this November.

Scroll down to see scores and tasting notes for nine back vintages of Salon Cuvée S

The early days

The first four vintages were not commercialised, but kept for the exclusive use of the founder, Eugène-Aimé Salon.

Champagne Salon vertical: nine vintages of Salon Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs

Wines are shown by vintage, in ascending order

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Texas is the second largest US state. For perspective, it’s about 20% larger than France, and has roughly 200 wineries and eight official AVAs (Bell Mountain, Escondido Valley, Fredericksburg, Mesilla Valley, Texas Davis Mountains, Texas High Plains, Texas Hill Country and Texoma).

Despite its impressive size, winemaking is chiefly concentrated in two distinct areas: Texas Hill Country and High Plains. Most of the state’s grapes are cultivated in High Plains, while most of the tourism and consumption takes place in Texas Hill Country.

See also: Katie’s Colorado and Idaho travel guides, and look out for North Carolina and Michigan coming soon

Spend a minute in the High Plains AVA and you’ll appreciate why – dominated by semi-arid, windy conditions, it’s a high-elevation, vastly flat region of roughly 3.2m hectares in west Texas.

Andrew Sides, winemaker for Lost Draw Cellars, describes it as ‘ideal for winemaking but not for the faint of heart’. The area has rich, sandy loam soils – primarily ancient seabed, underneath which is a deep limestone bed that imparts an intriguing minerality to the wines.

The High Plains may be the state’s primary growing region, but it’s the scenic charms of Texas Hill Country that draw the crowds.

The climate here is more moderate, and the soils are more on a granite uplift. Concentrated around the town of Fredericksburg (which is equidistant from San Antonio and Austin), Hill Country enjoys a lingering Germanic influence as many Germans settled here in the mid-1800s.

It is also the home of former president Lyndon Johnson and known for its profusion of bluebonnet wildflowers in the spring.

Warmer-climate varieties such as Viognier and Tempranillo thrive in both High Plains and Hill Country. You’ll also find Sangiovese, Roussanne, Mourvèdre and some Tannat.

Where to visit

Picnic lunch at William Chris Vineyards, Credit: www.williamchriswines.com

At William Chris Vineyards, 32km east of Fredericksburg, a glass-walled tasting room looks out over the vineyards. Order a picnic lunch if you want to enjoy wines al fresco, or consider a seat inside for the Library Tasting experience that features an in-depth look at the range and breadth of its terroirs and vintages.

The Signature Series of wines at Pedernales Cellars, back towards Fredericksburg, features delicious single-barrel expressions, best enjoyed in the tasting room with views over the Pedernales river valley.

Credit: Becker Vineyards

Becker Vineyards has a long history of winemaking in Hill Country (former first lady Ladybird Johnson was a fan of its Chardonnay). Book a tour and reserve library tasting paired with cheeses for the best experience, and if you visit in the spring you’ll enjoy the full bloom of its fields of wildflowers and lavender plants.

Another worthy stop is at Bingham Family Vineyards. It scooped five awards at the 2021 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition – including gold for its Dugout 2018 Bordeaux blend.

The charming courtyard at Lost Draw Cellars in Fredericksburg is a big draw for live music at weekends, and a glass or two of its Reserve Roussanne (2018). Book a wine and charcuterie tasting if you want some light bites.

Dinner at Otto’s

Texas wine travel guide: where to stay & eat

The universal favourite for overnight stays is Hoffman Haus, a luxury bed-and-breakfast well situated in the heart of Hill Country.

Outlot 201 Guest Houses, an 8km drive from Fredericksburg’s historic Main Street, offers three guest houses designed in keeping with the area’s traditional ‘Sunday Haus’ style homes. Each one has a pantry stocked with homemade banana bread, fresh fruit and drinks.

For a boutique hotel experience, the Trueheart Hotel offers 13 rooms furnished in a colourful and playful style. Or for something quirkier, consider the adults-only 1940s aviation-centric Hangar Hotel.

You’ll have your pick of places to eat and drink in Fredericksburg, but a dish of goose and truffle ravioli with mixed farm greens, wine reduction sauce and pecans at Otto’s German Bistro tops the list for a dose of the region’s Hessian history.

Cabernet Grill is popular with locals, and has one of the largest selections of Texas wines in the state – a great place to taste options not on the Hill Country tasting trail.

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The post Texas wine travel guide appeared first on Decanter.

Champagne producers have resumed shipments to Russia, the Comité Champagne trade body has confirmed, but it also said the fight against a new Russian labelling law was far from over.

The group called for a halt to Champagne exports to Russia in July after criticising a ‘scandalous’ new law in the country that would force Champagne makers to use the term ‘sparkling wine’ on the back labels of bottles.

The term ‘Shampanskoye’, a direct translation of Champagne, was reserved for Russian sparkling wine producers, it said.

While the new law remains in place, the Comité Champagne said its recommendation to restart shipments was motivated by a desire ‘not to penalise Russian customers and consumers’, who it said will be keen to drink Champagne as the end-of-year festive season approaches.

Russia has a long history of enjoying Champagne, although several other export markets are bigger today.

Shipments to Russia were worth €35m in 2020, up nearly 2% versus 2019, making it the 15^th biggest export market by value, show Comité Champagne figures.

The Comité said that it remained determined to challenge Russia’s new labelling rules.

‘The Champagne sector continues to demand full recognition of its appellation in Russia, and the amendment of this law in order to provide consumers with clear and transparent information,’ the Comité said.

It described the endeavour as a long-term process but also cited support from France’s agriculture ministry.

French agriculture minister Julien Denormandie was quoted in La Tribune newspaper earlier this month as saying that his ministry had approached Russian authorities and was stepping up discussions. He said the French government would not let the matter rest.

Champagne already enjoys protected name status in the EU and several non-EU countries, and the Comité Champagne has a track record of strongly defending its producers from any possible infringement worldwide.

Champagne exports fell by around 16% in volume and value in 2020, to 130.8m bottles and €2.6bn, due to lower orders during the first months of the Covid-19 pandemic, according to Comité figures.

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There is something quintessentially Californian about the Paso Robles wine region. Perhaps it’s the golden-hour haze that burnishes the dry-farm dust rising from a patchwork of different soil types. Paso sunsets romantically blur the outlines of the oak trees on the rolling hills. Or perhaps it’s the cold nights courtesy of the ocean proximity? It gives the region the largest diurnal swings of all California AVAs.

Maybe it’s the palm trees and stretching Pacific views from Hearst Castle that hosted a dazzling array of sirens partying in the Hollywood golden era. Or perhaps it’s the pioneering spirit of many of Paso’s wine people, their stories inspired by personal wine rush.

Scroll down for Clare Tooley MW’s tasting notes and scores of 24 top wines from six premium Paso Robles producers

Paso Robles AVA: the facts

Established in 1983, the Paso Robles AVA now has 11 sub appellations. It is the fastest-growing wine region in California, with more than 200 wineries and 16,200ha. Over 60 different grape varieties grow in its Mediterranean climate, which also experiences the greatest diurnal temperature swing of all California’s wine-growing regions.

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New Zealand might once have been the land where Sauvignon Blanc reigned supreme, but Pinot Noir now stands proudly alongside the white flagship grape as the country’s leading red variety.

Explore the selection below and discover the revolution which, in the past ten years, has rescued New Zealand from red wine obscurity and placed it among the leading producers of one of the world’s fussiest, but most admired, grapes.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 12 great value New Zealand Pinot Noir to try

A quiet revolution

New Zealand Pinot Noir carved its place on the world stage in a relative short period, due to a serendipitous combination of factors.

The first step was awareness of the country’s potential to produce world class Pinot. Winemakers and consumers, once focused exclusively on Sauvignon Blanc, realised there was more to explore.

This in turn attracted a vibrant community of young, risk-taking producers, keen to experiment with the different terroirs, clones and winemaking approaches. Many of them focused on low intervention and sustainable practices, consolidating an important Kiwi trend.

As existing vineyard plantings matured, the resulting fruit they yielded started to produce wines of greater complexity and longevity, giving winemakers more confidence in the quality and identity of their Pinot Noirs and their ability to rival international counterparts.

Cool climate hotspot

Pinot Noir is mostly grown in New Zealand’s southern regions – Wairarapa, Marlborough, Nelson, North Canterbury and Central Otago.

These areas benefit from a cool climate, high diurnal temperature variations and intense UV exposure, ensuring a long and balanced ripening season.

Central Otago has indeed been lauded as a ‘new Burgundy’, favoured by experts, sommeliers and sustainable wine fans for the elegance and expressiveness of its Pinots. The growing conditions in Central Otago are not dissimilar to those of Burgundy and Willamette Valley, Oregon.

Some benchmark examples of outstanding New Zealand Pinot Noir, such as those produced by Felton Road and Rippon, do command higher prices.

However there’s also outstanding value New Zealand Pinot Noir to be found, as the country produces wines of consistent quality across a variety of price points.

The diversity of microclimates and terroirs in New Zealand results in individual and expressive wines, but there is a common thread to them all: excellent fruit purity, fine yet firm structure, textural presence and a moreish spiciness.

Food pairings – elegantly versatile

The laidback poise and vibrancy of New Zealand Pinots makes them ideal food companions.

Flavour complexity, texture and delicious savouriness mean they can easily handle red meat and hearty stews. On the other hand, the fruit-forwardness and gentle, but refreshing, acidity will balance the richness of oily fish, the earthiness of roast chicken or the smokiness of grilled vegetables.

Lighter examples will benefit from being slightly chilled. Make space in your fridge – New Zealand Pinot may well become your new everyday drinking red of choice.

Value New Zealand Pinot Noir – 12 to try:

Wines shown in score order

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The Sonoma wine-growing area is big. In its 200,000ha of land, there’s about 26,000ha of vines – about the same as Burgundy (excluding Beaujolais), with 28,000ha.

There are 1,800 grape growers who farm across 18 AVAs that stretch from the Pacific Coast to the Mayacamas Mountains on western edge of Napa Valley.

A variety of soils from volcanic, sedimentary and alluvial are mixed in the region, so climate is the key to success here.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Ronan Sayburn MS’s top Sonoma Chardonnay

Ronan Sayburn MS’s top Sonoma Chardonnay:

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Frescobaldi confirmed that it has bought the Corte alla Flora estate near to Montepulciano and the group said it was excited about producing wine under the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano denomination.

Financial details were not disclosed, but Frescobaldi said it has acquired 60 hectares (ha) of land, of which 30ha are vineyards.

It marks a new departure for a family with a 700-year winemaking history in Tuscany.

‘We are delighted to be able to make our own distinctive contribution to the reputation of this growing area,’ said Lamberto Frescobaldi, president of Marchesi Frescobaldi and part of the family’s 30th generation.

‘We have made a commitment, with the passion that always characterises our activities, to further develop that unique character that marks the world-class Montepulciano denomination.’

For Marchesi Frescobaldi’s winemaker and technical director, Nicolò D’Afflitto, the move marks something of a return to where it all began.

‘I started to work in Montepulciano, in 1985, [and] it is a privilege to return to that prestigious denomination, where the Sangiovese grape creates such a classic yet one-of-a-kind terroir expression,’ he said.

The Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG denomination was created in 1980, yet there is evidence of wines from the area having been enjoyed for centuries.

Fans have included US president Thomas Jefferson, who ordered 123 bottles of Sangiovese from Montepulciano in 1803, according to the regional Consorzio.

Today, as well as defining the production zone, DOCG rules state that Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines must contain at least 70% Sangiovese, and may contain up to 30% of other grape varieties approved for use in Tuscany.

Corte alla Flora will be the ninth winery within the Frescobaldi estates division, also including: Castello Nipozzano in Chianti Rufina, Castello Pomino in Pomino, Rémole in Sieci, Tenuta Castiglioni in Montespertoli, Tenuta Perano in Gaiole in Chianti, Tenuta Ammiraglia in Maremma, CastelGiocondo in Montalcino, and Gorgona on Gorgona Island.

Separately, the family also owns renowned SuperTuscans Ornellaia and Masseto.

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The post Frescobaldi buys first wine estate in Montepulciano appeared first on Decanter.

Walking the beautiful streets of Edinburgh is the perfect way to learn more about Scotch whisky, from the bartenders who mix it into cocktails through to a distillery that’s producing its own water of life.

In ‘Auld Reekie’, modern bars and new whiskies rub shoulders with traditional boozers and their extensive selections.

Here are 12 Edinburgh whisky bars not to miss

Albanach

Don’t be put off by the Albanach being part of the Belhaven pub chain – the bar on the Royal Mile oozes character and atmosphere and is an ideal spot to become better acquainted with Scotland’s national drink. If you can, grab one of the tables at the back, with a view looking out from the New Town across to the Old Town. Its location means it’s extremely popular, especially in August during the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, the world’s largest arts festival.

• 197 High Street, EH1 1PE
• +44 (0)131 220 5277

Holyrood Distillery

For a taste of whiskies from Scotland’s newer distilleries – including Nc’Nean, Kilchoman, and Kingsbarns – head to Holyrood Distillery, based in a converted railway engine shed in the shadow of Salisbury Crags and Arthur’s Seat. While Holyrood’s own Scotch continues to slumber in its casks, you can sample the distillery’s gin, along with mother’s ruin from Electric Spirit Co and Port of Leith Distillery. The distillery’s bar also offers a little-seen view into the picturesque slopes of neighbouring Holyrood Park.

Hollyrood Distillery

• 19 St Leonard’s Lane, EH8 9SH
• +44 (0)131 285 8977

Johnnie Walker Princes Street (top)

The new kid on Edinburgh’s whisky block is an impressive sight; Johnnie Walker has turned a former department store on Princes Street into the flagship visitors centre for the world’s biggest Scotch whisky brand. Think the Guinness brewery in Dublin, but with less stout and more visual clout, with panoramic views of Edinburgh Castle and the city’s skyline from the 1820 Rooftop Bar, and classy brushed metal and amber lighting in the Explorers’ Bothy, which boasts everything from big brands to single casks.

• 145 Princes Street, EH2 4BL
• +44 (0)131 376 9494

Panda & Sons

Scotch is about so much more than a simple dram in isolation. Whisky cocktails are an essential part of Edinburgh’s bar scene, and aficionados are spoiled for choice for venues. Enter Panda & Sons through a barber’s shop on Queen Street and descend the stairs to find a 1930s speakeasy. Equally thrilling libations are also served at Mothership’s trio of bars, with Bramble and Lucky Liquor in the city centre and The Last Word Cocktail Saloon down the hill in Stockbridge.

• 79 Queen Street, EH2 4NF
• +44 (0)131 220 0443

Scotch

The place to pick to impress the in-laws. The Balmoral Hotel’s Scotch bar is decked out in tasteful tartan and overstuffed armchairs, all surrounded by library shelf after library shelf full of whisky. The most spectacular bottles are even kept behind bars. The kilted staff will guide you through the extensive range and will climb the ladders and stools to retrieve bottles from the highest shelves, adding a bit of theatre to the occasion. Check out other whisky hotels around Scotland.

• 1 Princes Street, EH2 2EQ
• +44 (0)131 556 2414

Teuchters Bar

Hidden away on William Street in the West End, Teuchters is mobbed when the Six Nations is in town but, when rugby fans aren’t slowly winding their way to Murrayfield, it offers an ideal spot to enjoy a whisky and a beer chaser – or a ‘hauf an’ a hauf’ as it’s known in Edinburgh. Its sister pub, Teuchters Landing in Leith, was once the waiting room for the steamboat to Aberdeen and now boasts a large beer garden and pontoon.

• 26 William Street, EH3 7NH
• +44 (0)131 225 2973

The Black Cat

Rose Street might have a reputation as Edinburgh’s equivalent of Dublin’s Temple Bar for stag and hen parties, but The Black Cat proves there’s real whisky expertise on the cobbled lane too. Small but perfectly formed, The Black Cat is an ‘Ardbeg embassy’, and so stocks an exciting selection of special-edition peated malts from the Islay distillery. What’s equally impressive is its new and fast-growing range of Scotch from independent bottlers, which is a great way to explore unique casks from lesser-known distilleries.

• 168 Rose Street, EH2 4BA
• +44 (0)131 225 33491

The Canny Man’s

‘Eclectic’ doesn’t do The Canny Man’s justice as a description. Its walls are adorned with everything from dolls to typewriters, while musical instruments and bikes are suspended from its ceiling. That same eccentricity in its decor thankfully extends to its whisky selection too, with more than 240 examples on its ‘malt list’ from around Scotland. Its open-top Danish sandwiches are second to none, and worth the journey up the hill from the city centre to leafy Morningside on their own.

• 237 Morningside Road, EH10 4QU
• +44 (0)131 447 1484

The Devil’s Advocate

Tucked away on Advocate’s Close, one of the lanes leading up to the Royal Mile, The Devil’s Advocate is as famous for its food as it is for the 300-plus whiskies on its menu. Its whisky flights are creative, while its sharing platters up on its mezzanine dining level make for an intimate supper. Run by the people behind The Bon Vivant on Thistle Street, worthy of a mention in its own right for its great-value Scottish tapas dishes.

• 9 Advocates Close, EH1 1ND
• +44 (0)131 225 4465

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society was once a members-only institution, but now non-members can enjoy a dram and a meal in its Kaleidoscope Bar on Queen Street. The society buys single casks, which are identified by numbers, rather than the names of the distilleries – although several websites now offer clues. Its legendary tasting notes are guaranteed to raise a giggle, while its tapas and whisky matching is great fun. Members can also enjoy food and drink at The Vaults in Leith.

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society

• 28 Queen Street, EH2 1JX
• +44 (0)131 220 2044

The Tryst

Forget baked potatoes and cold pizza slices; the Bonnie & Wild food hall within the brand new £1 billion St James Quarter shopping centre showcases the best Scotland has to offer – including its whiskies. Nine top restaurants from around the country are running stalls in the food hall. The whisky list has real credibility too, thanks to drinks merchant Inverarity Morton. For a more intimate dram, head for The Tryst instead of the main Hauf & Howff or Dookit bars.

• Bonnie & Wild, Fourth Floor, St James Quarter, 415-417 St James Crescent, EH1 3AE
• +44 (0)131 560 1800

Whiski Rooms

Perched on The Mound – one of the streets linking Edinburgh’s Old Town and New Town – Whiski Rooms combines a bar with a restaurant and a shop next door to one another. Start your journey in the bottle shop before sneaking downstairs to the bar and grabbing a window seat to enjoy views over the New Town as you nurse your dram. The smell of the food will be enough to tempt you to book a table in the restaurant too.

• 4-7 North Bank Street, EH1 2LP
• +44 (0)131 225 7224

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Cuatro Rayas is a winery on a mission. A mission to bust the myth that Verdejos from DO Rueda should be consumed within a year. And this year, Amador Diez Verdejo 2015 scored 97 points and a Platinum Medal as the best Rueda in the Decanter World Wine Awards 2021.

Established in 1935, Bodega Cuatro Rayas uses its expertise and knowledge of the DO to make wines that stand the test of time.

Winemaking at the bodega is influenced by a vast variety of vineyards – around 2,500ha – in more than 30 villages. In fact, a fifth of the oldest vineyards in DO Rueda belong to Cuatro Rayas and around 160ha are more than 40 years old, while 30ha are between 80 and 100 years old, and some are pre-phylloxera.

Amador Diez, named after the winery’s president as a tribute from the growers in the cooperative, represents a return to the origins of Rueda; a wine that respects the tradition and natural environment of the oldest vineyards. The Verdejo is produced using a selection of hand-harvested grapes from the best 10ha of pre-phylloxera vines, located in Segovia and Valladolid.

The wine is vinified with the aim of improving its longevity – and while it is ideal for drinking now, it also has excellent bottle-ageing potential. Not to mention a roster of gold and platinum medals to prove it.

Cooperative members from the early 20th century

Green credentials

Great wines rely on great respect for the land and its people. With its Green & Social label, Cuatro Rayas affirms the cooperative’s commitment to respect the environment and the people who live in it, through several measures including: financial transparency and ethical management, social involvement, quality, innovation and security for members, ecological management of crops, vegan winemaking and the reduction of the bodega’s carbon footprint. The company is also working to minimise its impact on the natural environment with measures such as lighter glass bottles and using recycled materials for packaging.

UK Distribution:  www.ultracomida.co.uk / T: 07791 766138 / paul.grimwood@ultracomida.co.uk

The post Bodega Cuatro Rayas - White hot ambition appeared first on Decanter.

Proudly Sicilian, the Duca di Salaparuta has produced wines that fully express the essence of the island for almost 200 years. Today, this iconic brand produces an elegant and innovative range with fruit sourced from its three proprietary estates, with a total area under vine of over 183 hectares.

The location of each estate is the result of extensive terroir research, aimed at identifying the most suitable areas for each native Sicilian variety to produce wines with most typicity. Sustainability and respect for the land are the watchwords.  For Duca di Salaparuta, attention to the vineyards is fundamental to produce wines of the highest quality, made to express different aspects of the Sicilan soul, year after year.

The company’s flagship wine, proof of an ongoing commitment to quality and research, is Duca Enrico, the first 100% Nero d’Avola in the history of Sicilian wine which had its inaugural release in 1984. Produced only in the best vintages and made with fruit sourced from the most suitable vineyards of the Suor Marchesa estate, Duca Enrico is a complex, long-lived wine of inimitable charm and an iconic example of Nero d’Avola.

The Estates 

Risignolo

Risignolo is located in the province of Trapani. On a hill overlooking the coast, Duca di Salaparuta owns 35 hectares of vineyards planted to two white grape varieties: Grillo and Insolia. The breezes coming in from the sea and the loose, sandy-clay soil give the whites of this area an intense, fresh and mineral aromatic profile.

Suor Marchesa

Suor Marchesa is located in southern Sicily, not far from the sea. Sun-drenched summers are followed by mild and short winters. The estate’s 127 hectares of vineyards paint the hillsides green. The calcareous-rich soils give aromatic intensity and longevity to the Nero d’Avola plants, which have found their ideal location here, ready to deliver both power and ageing potential.

Vajasindi

Vajasindi draws its strength from the volcanic slopes of Etna. The 21-hectare area, located in Contrada Passopisciaro in Castiglione della Sicilia, is divided into three terraces: the first at 700 metres above sea level and the other two at 620 metres. Here, alongside the traditional Nerello Mascalese, Duca di Salaparuta has decided to plant Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) as well, taking up the challenge set by the great Italian oenologist Giacomo Tachis.

Duca di Salaparuta S.P.A.
Via Nazionale s.s.113
90014 Casteldaccia (PA)
Tel +39 091 945201
info@duca.it | www.duca.it 

The post Duca di Salaparuta: the history of Sicilian wine in three estates appeared first on Decanter.

More than half of all the Cognac sold in the world is labelled as VS (Very Special). It is the region’s youngest age classification and refers to Cognacs that must have been matured in oak for a minimum of two years.

These are typically mixable spirits, and it’s worth remembering that much more Cognac is drunk mixed than neat, whether in cocktails or refreshing long drinks with ginger ale, tonic, iced tea, or – to make purists shudder – Coca-Cola.

But don’t be dismissive of VS, because creating a winning blend from multiple young eaux-de-vie is a delicate art. It’s one that the cellar master can’t afford to get wrong, because these are the best-selling products that he or she will ever make.

What’s more, the best examples are perfectly enjoyable to drink neat. They also provide a great way to introduce someone to the world of Cognac, without breaking the bank.

Best VS Cognacs to try

Camus VS Elegance

A serial award winner, this is uncommonly elegant and floral for a VS-grade Cognac, thanks to distillation on the lees and careful maturation in fine-grained oak. It’s versatile, and a great way to get to know the signature Camus style, which has evolved to become even more aromatic in recent years. Alcohol 40%

Château de Montifaud VS

Owned by the Vallet family, Montifaud is a great exponent of Petite Champagne Cognacs, which share many of the characteristics of Grande Champagne, but can be a little less austere and more approachable when young. This is supple and fresh, with leaner orchard fruits and more complexity than is the norm among VS Cognacs. Alc 40%

Courvoisier VS

Perhaps the least famous of the ‘big four’ Cognac houses around the world, Courvoisier more than makes up for this with a consistently harmonious range of Cognacs, starting here: eaux-de-vie from Fins Bois for floral fruitiness and Petite Champagne to provide structure. Well-integrated oak provides a touch of allspice. Alc 40%

Frapin 1270

The youngest member of the Frapin family in every sense – this was only launched in 2018 – 1270 is named after the year the family started growing grapes in the region. It has the classic house characteristic of floral, fruity elegance, in a simple style that’s highly mixable, but perfectly good neat too. Grande Champagne VS can sometimes lack generosity, but distillation on the lees keeps this super-fragrant and charming. Alc 40%

François Voyer VS

Another Grande Champagne VS, from a producer whose Cognacs are found in many top restaurants in France. There’s more richness here, in the shape of beguiling tropical fruits and a creamy, vanilla-spiked texture from maturation in virgin Limousin oak casks. Extremely smooth and well-mannered. Alc 40%

Hennessy VS

This is the world’s best-selling Cognac, and by some distance. It’s everything you’d expect from the Hennessy house style, with robust, spicy, nutty oak providing plenty of structure behind aromas of green grape skin and light citrus. A blend of 40 eaux-de-vie from every Cognac cru, it’s a mixable map of the region. Alc 40%

Pierre Ferrand 1840 Original Formula

Located just a few miles outside the town of Cognac, Ferrand is a forward-looking Cognac house under the loquacious leadership of Alexandre Gabriel. This is a nicely poised VS, with aromas of jasmine blossom, ripe grapes and some fine oak tannin, all held together by a honeyed texture. Alc 45%

Ragnaud Sabourin No 4 VS

If you know someone who thinks all VS Cognac is harsh firewater, give them this. It embodies its Grande Champagne origins, with lifted aromas of honeysuckle and orange blossom. On the palate, a creamy texture and fleshy fruit are undercut by notes of menthol and caramel.
Alc 41%

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Christophe Baron has been busy. The Champenois transplant to the Pacific Northwest has built a worldwide reputation for his winery Cayuse, in Oregon’s Walla Walla Valley, where he began planting in 1997 and launched his first vintage in 2000.

The Walla Walla Valley AVA is one that crosses state lines. While more often associated with Washington, Baron’s vineyards are all located on the Oregon side. They include Armada, Sur Echalas, The Tribe and Hors Catégorie.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of Christophe Baron wines in Oregon and Champagne

Champagne to Cayuse and more: Christophe Baron wines

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The latest-release tasting of the wines of Alvaro Palacios and Ricardo Pérez Palacios in the cellars of Berry Bros & Rudd in London is always a must-attend. Inevitably this year uncle and nephew remained in Spain, and appeared via Zoom.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the Alvaro Palacios 2020 new releases

Despite being filtered through the internet, Palacios had lost none of the energy that made him Decanter’s Man of the Year 2015. He has played an exceptional part in the elevation of the reputation of Spain’s wines internationally.

The fact that he has wineries in three regions of Spain – more or less Atlantic, Continental and Mediterranean – always makes tasting the wines fascinating, watching the ways he focuses ever more closely on the vineyard and the winemaking, and the changes he chooses to make.

The tasters had been sent the sample bottles of the 2020 vintage to which we have all become accustomed for Zoom tastings. Small sample bottles are never as perfect as full bottles in a regular en primeur tasting. What was gained instead was a very full discussion of the wines.

Vintage variation

Sarah Jane Evans MW rates the Alvaro Palacios 2020 new releases

Wines are listed in score order

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French winemakers will likely see the country’s 2021 harvest go down as the smallest for several decades, the country’s ministry of agriculture said this month.

With forecast production of 33.3 million hectolitres, one would have to go back to 1977 to find a vintage of comparable size, said the ministry’s statistics service, Agreste. Even in ’77, the overall crop was larger than the projected 2021 harvest – because France’s vineyard area was bigger in the 1970s.

From Bordeaux to Champagne, there is barely a region untouched by difficult weather conditions to varying degrees. Severe spring frost and early summer mildew attacks have been the main culprits, but not exclusively.

Yet it’s early days, with grapes still to be picked in major regions. Early feedback suggests a mixed picture between vineyards, and there is also hope regarding quality.

Languedoc

‘The quality is superb but unfortunately [there is] very little fruit,’ said Samuel Guibert, winemaker and co-owner at Mas de Daumas Gassac in the Hérault area of Languedoc. ‘Our estimation is that we have lost about 50% of the white due to the frost, and about 30% of the rosé,’ he told Decanter via email, adding that 40 pickers began harvesting grapes for white and rosé wines on 6 September.

He said he expected yields of around 26 hectolitres per hectare for the whites. For the reds, yields were likely to be around 25hl/ha, compared to a more normal 33 to 35hl/ha.

Champagne

In Champagne, the overall harvest could be the smallest for 40 years, Agreste said. Again, however, the true picture will be more complex.

Anne Malassagne, co-owner of family-run producer AR Lenoble, said she anticipated overall losses of around 40%, but the situation could still change in the next 10 days.

‘Overall at AR Lenoble, the Pinot Meuniers were more affected than the Pinots Noirs. Our Chardonnays in Chouilly suffered less,’ she said.

‘It is still too early to estimate the quality, which could be good. The mildew impacted the volumes but not the quality.’

AR Lenoble began picking its Pinot Noir this week but will wait a little longer on the Chardonnay. ‘It will be necessary to sort in the vineyard and then be very attentive during the vinification to make the right decisions,’ Malassagne said.

Burgundy

In Chablis, the Drouhin winemaking family said, ‘The harvest in Chablis is low to very low because of the frost. Where frost protection has been successful, the harvest is fine, but the protected areas are small.’

Julien Brocard, of the Brocard winemaking family and Domaine des 7 Lieux, also said Chablis was hit hard by frost, even if the vines were well protected against mildew later in the season.

‘The weather conditions forced us to be very vigilant and responsive throughout the year,’ he said. However, he added, as of now, ‘The vines are beautiful with a significant disparity in maturity between the crus. Harvest begins next Monday and we will be able to harvest at the optimum dates for each plot.’

Elsewhere in Burgundy, a spokesperson for regional wine body, the BIVB, told Decanter, ‘The situation is too complex with damages everywhere but heterogeneous: some plots have been preserved [while] their neighbours have been hit. Sometimes it is from one row [of vines] to the other that you can see differences.’

She said it was still too early to make concrete statements about harvest size, but total volumes could be lower than the relatively small year of 2016.

‘All Bourgogne was hit’, she said, but added that ‘Côte de Nuits and Hautes Côtes seem to have been more preserved, especially for red wines’.

Bordeaux

In Bordeaux, Sauvignon Blanc has been particularly hard-hit, according to France’s agriculture ministry.

More generally in the region, ‘everybody is concerned about the yield, because of the mildew and the frost’, said Emmanuel Cruse, co-owner of Château d’Issan. He highlighted significant variation between vineyards, however.

At d’Issan, yields could be around 40 hectolitres per hectare – slightly up on last year – because mildew issues were relatively light and frost largely hit vines in the Arsac area, which are not used for the estate’s grand vin.

But Château Pédesclaux in Pauillac, where Cruse is also general manager, could see 2021 yields down by around 30% versus 2020. In 2021, ‘if you ask 10 people you will get 10 different answers,’ Cruse said, speaking to Decanter this week following the sale of Château Lafon-Rochet.

Harvesting began at Château Canon in St-Emilion this week, and the team said technical staff needed to be extra-vigilant for the grapes coming in. ‘The Merlots that we collect are nevertheless of great aromatic expression and complexity,’ the Château said. Picking begins at sister estate Rauzan-Ségla in Margaux on Monday (20 September).

Elsewhere in France

While France is set to see its 2021 wine harvest come in around 29% lower than the five-year average, some regions may fare worse. Jura, for example, could see a harvest around 80% smaller than usual, according to Agreste estimates published on 6 September.

Yet Alsace was not so badly affected by frost, and overall yields there for appellation wines might be 17% down on the five-year average, Agreste figures show.

Frost and mildew have not been the only issues in the 2021 growing season. Provence’s wine body, the CIVP, said in August that it believed around 30 wine estates had suffered at least some damage from fierce wildfires in the Var area. The full picture was unclear, however, and the body thanked emergency services for all their efforts to contain the fires.

Provence’s total vineyard area stretches across 200 kilometres and the CIVP also said in August that harvest size was still hard to estimate. It said ‘sanitary conditions’ in many vineyards had been largely good during summer and there were signs that frost impact may not be as bad as initially feared.

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