Every time we’re in Greece — most often Halkidiki — I find the nearest bakery and order bougatsa. Warm phyllo, creamy semolina custard, a snowfall of powdered sugar and cinnamon on top. It’s the one thing I never skip there, and since nobody sells it where I live, I learned to make it at home.
This bougatsa recipe is the closest I’ve gotten to the bakery version, a...