Canadian Hobby Metal Workers & Machinists

There has to be a better way to ensure the boring bar is parallel to the work piece than the method I'm using.
My method is get the BB in the ball park (pic below) with rule then do a test cut, remove the work piece from the lathe and measure the ID at both ends, then tweek the compound and do another test cut.
And so on until it is bang on.
I'm open to suggestions.

My DRO can be upgraded so that it can display the feed rate. Is it worth $200-$300 to do that?

With my limited playing around I’ve just used a feed rate that seems to make the mill happy and minimize the noise transmitted upstairs to where SWMBO’d is… So feed rate seems a questionable addition.

I’ve yet to find FSWizard useful for setting feeds and speeds both ...

My CX 701 is less than a year old…but since almost day one I’ve had problems with some of the ball oilers…I’m never qu...

I have only printed PLA but that doesnt limit you from making parts by casting resins. It opens more possibilities. I had to replace some missing feet. I modelled the part, made a 2-part split mold from it. The first one I cast urethane rubber which turned out fine but a bit too squishy, 60-durometer, just what I had on hand. Since the existing ones already had a flattened wear ...

One thing common about the stuff I make in my shop is that most if it requires one form of fixture or another. Some nights I lay in bed trying to solve how to work hold a complex part.

Anyone else do any fixturing?

This particular fixture took some time to figure out despite it being rather simple. These parts required two other fixtures first before they got t...