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Kitale is the town most travellers in north-western Kenya end up basing themselves in without having planned to. It sits in the gap between Mount Elgon and the Cherangani Hills, in the middle of the country’s most productive farming county, and it is the practical staging post for two national parks, a mountain range and the long road north to Lake Turkana. It also holds the ...


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The Kerio Valley is one of the most dramatic pieces of landscape in Kenya and one of the least visited. It is a narrow Rift trough running north–south between the Elgeyo Escarpment and the Tugen Hills, around 80 kilometres long, with the escarpment wall rising more than 1,800 metres above the valley floor in places. Kerio Valley National Reserve was gazetted over part of it i...


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The Cherangani Hills are a long, forested range on the western wall of the Rift Valley in north-western Kenya, rising to around 3,530 metres and holding one of the five great water catchments that supply the country’s rivers. They are not a national park, they are not a game-viewing destination, and they are among the least commercially developed trekking landscapes in Kenya ...


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Almost everyone who sets foot on Wasini is on their way somewhere else. The island is the stepping stone for the reef excursion out to Kisite, and a great many visitors experience it as a lunch stop between two boat rides. That is a shame, because Wasini is the most unusual inhabited island on the Kenyan coast: a raised slab of fossil coral with no surface fresh water, no car...


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Funzi is the quiet end of Kenya’s south coast. It sits in the mangrove country where the Ramisi river reaches the sea, about an hour and a half south of the Likoni ferry, and almost nothing about it resembles the beach strip it shares a county with. There are no resort rows, no beach boys, no watersports flotilla. There is a village of fishing and farming families, a maze of ...


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