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Glasgow between the races: a duke crowned in traffic orange, an Oasis pilgrimage, and a city with seventy-four nations on the pavement.

We had one day off in Glasgow, between the races, and we thought we were spending it visiting famous places. We were wrong in the best way available. We spent the day visiting beginnings.

And somewhere in ...


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Why the whole world crosses oceans to stand in crowds, and why Glasgow is the city that understands it best.

There’s a feeling you can’t get on your own. You can be moved by a painting in an empty gallery, by a mountain with nobody else on it, by a song in the dark with headphones in. Those are real, and they’re yours alone. But there’s a different charge, ...


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Faked fairies, a real massacre, and what the camera leaves out of the most photographed glen in Scotland.

In 1920 the man who invented the most famous sceptic in literature published a magazine article announcing that fairies were real. Arthur Conan Doyle had spent decades writing a detective who solved everything by refusing to believe anything without pro...


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Loch Ness by morning, the Hogwarts Express by lunch, and a day built entirely out of things Tracey believed in first.

Some days on a long trip are transit. You move the bags, you cover the miles, you arrive. And then, once in a very great while, a transit day quietly assembles itself into the best day of the trip, and you only see the shape of it af...


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Assynt, the emptiest corner of the Highlands, the people who were cleared off it, and the people who bought it back.

The emptiest, most beautiful, most apparently untouched landscape in Britain is one of the least natural things you can point a camera at. The emptiness is real. It just isn’t old, and it isn’t an accident.

Drive into the far north-...


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