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Website title: Rhapsody on the Blue
Leaving the village of Dai, we pointed Rhapsody north toward Raja Ampat, with a planned stop in the town of Bula on the next island north. Having just come from Fiji, the name made me smile. In Fiji, “Bula!” is everywhere, called out across streets, offered in passing, delivered with a grin. It means welcome, hello, life itself. The Indonesian town of Bula, howev...
From the moment we arrived in Indonesia, our interactions with people have been overwhelmingly positive. Smiles, waves, curious glances, and a general sense that we are welcome and yet unusual. We are not common objects here. This is especially true of Bob, whose height appears to exist outside the local range of expectations. There have been comments. There has been pointing...
Leaving Enu, the boat still had issues.
(Click here if you missed part 4)
Not loud ones, just enough to keep us paying attention. The engine sputtered and cut out shortly after we weighed anchor, a signal that immedi...
Enu wasn’t on the plan.
It wasn’t a waypoint, or a penciled-in stop, or a place we had talked about in our planning. It appeared only after we began looking, not for progress, but for pause.
By the third day of the crossing, our world had contracted, not in distance, we were still covering miles, but in focus. What mattered now was how the boat was moving, how the sea was behaving, and how much attention everything required. Wind and current were no longer aligned, and the motion reflected that disagreement. The bow lifted, hesitated, then dropped, again and agai...